2 Boil a kettle of fresh water with a low mineral content, suitable for brewing coffee.
3 While the kettle is boiling, place the paper filter in the brewer and rinse briefly under the hot tap. This helps to reduce any taste the paper might impart to the coffee, and also warms up the brewing device.
4 Add the coffee to the brewer, place the brewer on top of the cup or jug and place on the scales. A
5 Wait ten seconds once the kettle has boiled if you are pouring straight from it. If you are using a pouring kettle, decant the water into it immediately.
6 Using the scales as a guide, pour a little water on to the coffee, about twice as much as the coffee by weight. Don’t worry about being too accurate, just make sure you add enough to wet the coffee. I like to pick the cone up and give it a little swirl to make sure all the coffee is wet. Careful stirring with a spoon is another option. Wait thirty seconds before starting to pour the rest of the water. B
7 Slowly pour the remainder of the water on to the coffee, weighing as you go to get an accurate amount and taking into account the water already added. Try to pour directly on the coffee and not the walls of the brewer as water may pass through without really extracting the coffee. C
8 Once you have added all the necessary water, and the surface of the liquid is 2–3cm (about 1in) below the top of the cone, give it a gentle swirl again. This stops any coffee from sticking to the walls of the brewer. D
9 Let it drip through until the bed of coffee looks dry. It should be relatively flat at the base of the brewer. E
10 Discard the coffee and paper, remove the brewer from the cup and enjoy the coffee.
If you are not happy with the resulting cup of coffee, think about what you want to change. I would recommend using the grind to change the flavour of the coffee. If the coffee is bitter it may be overextracted so you should try your next brew using a slightly coarser grind. If it is weak, sour or astringent, try grinding the coffee more finely for the next brew. Very quickly you will know the best grind settings for the coffees you enjoy.
DIFFERENT KINDS OF FILTERS
There are three main types of filters used in pour-over and filter coffee brewing. Each affects the resulting brew by straining out different things.
METAL FILTERS
Like the French press, metal filters only remove the larger pieces of ground coffee. The resulting brew will have some silty sediment in it, and will look a little cloudy. It will have the added body from both the suspended grounds and the oils from the coffee and many people enjoy a cup like this. Metal filters can be used for years as long as the filters are kept clean and washed regularly, as failure to do so will allow oils to build up and become rancid.
CLOTH
Cloth has been used to filter coffee for a very long time. Like paper, it strains out the suspended pieces of coffee but it does allow some of the oil to come through. The resulting cup is very clean, with a richer, fuller mouthfeel.
After use, immediately rinse a cloth filter as well as possible, then dry it quickly. If you leave the cloth to dry slowly it will develop unpleasant flavours, similar to the smell of laundry that has been left in the machine too long. If you use the cloth regularly, keep it stored wet in a glass of water in the refrigerator. If you plan to store a cloth for a long time, put it wet into a ziplock bag and freeze it. Repeatedly freezing and thawing it will cause the cloth to degrade a little quicker, however.
The cloth shouldn’t be allowed to get too stained. For cleaning I would recommend a product called Cafiza, made by Urnex. While this is marketed as an espresso machine cleaner, the original formula was developed to clean the cloths used in very large filter brewers. Dissolve a small amount in hot water and soak the cloth in it, then rinse thoroughly and store.
PAPER
Paper filters are the most common type of filter and they produce the cleanest cup of coffee. They strain out all of the suspended material, as well as any oils that may have ended up in the brew. The resulting cup is a fairly clear liquid, often with a reddish hue. I always recommend bleached white papers, as the unbleached brown papers tend to impart an unpleasant papery taste to the coffee.
THE ELECTRIC FILTER MACHINE METHOD
An electric coffee machine takes away a lot of the guesswork and adds plenty of repeatability. We still have to be consistent in how much coffee we use, and how much cold water we put into the machine, but aside from that we can trust the brewer to do its job.
However, most domestic filter coffee machines tend to make pretty bad coffee. This is primarily because they are not capable of heating the water up to the correct temperature. If you’re shopping for a new one, make sure it has been certified to reach suitable temperatures. I would recommend buying a machine endorsed by an organization such as the Specialty Coffee Association of America or the European Coffee Brewing Centre.
I would also avoid buying a machine with any sort of hot plate. Keeping a jug of coffee on a hot plate very quickly ‘cooks’ the coffee, producing some unpleasant flavours. Choose instead a machine with a thermal carafe. Most electric machines perform best when brewing larger volumes. With most machines, I would recommend brewing at least 500ml of coffee at a time, which will last around 30 minutes in a thermal carafe.
THE ELECTRIC FILTER MACHINE METHOD
Ratio: 60g/l. I recommend this as a starting point for all pour-over and filter coffee methods, but be sure to experiment to find your preference.
Grind: Medium/caster (superfine) sugar, if making between 500ml and 1l of coffee. You will need to grind the beans more coarsely if brewing large volumes (see Grind Size), as many machines can brew up to 1l at a time, if not more.
1 Grind the coffee just before you start brewing. Be sure to weigh the coffee first.
2 Put the filter paper in the brewing basket, then rinse under the hot tap.
3 Place the brewing basket in the machine, then add fresh water with a low mineral content, suitable for brewing coffee.
4 Switch on the machine and, as the brew starts, keep an eye on it. If some of the coffee is not getting wet, give it a quick stir with a spoon.
5 Allow the brew to finish.
6 Discard the paper and grounds.
7 Enjoy your coffee.
As in the pour-over cone method, adjusting the grind size is a better way to change the flavour than adjusting the amount of coffee you add if you are not happy with your cup.
THE AEROPRESS
The Aeropress is a rather unusual coffee maker, but I have yet to meet someone who has one and does not love using it. It was invented in 2005 by Alan Adler, the inventor of the Aerobie throwing ring – hence its name. It is a cheap, durable and very portable brewer that many coffee professionals take with them when they travel around the world. In addition, this brewer is very easy to clean.
The interesting thing about the Aeropress is that it combines two different brewing methods. Initially the water and coffee steep together, as they would in a French press. However, to complete the brew, a piston is used to push the water through the grounds and then through a paper filter – a little like an espresso machine and a little like a filter coffee maker.
Compared with other brewers, the number of different recipes and techniques that can be used with the Aeropress is enormous. There is even a competition each year for the best technique, which started in Norway but has ended up growing into an international event dubbed the World Aeropress Championships. Each year the organizers publish the top three methods from the competition on their website (www.worldaeropresschampionship.com), which should give you an idea of how variable these machines can be.
I would, however, argue against any claims that the Aeropress can be used to produce espresso or anything like it. It can make small, strong cups of coffee, but a person pushing down on a plunger simply cannot replicate the very high pressures used in an espresso machine.
The two main methods of using this machine are described at Traditional Aeropress Method and Inverted Aeropress Method.
RATIO AND GRIND SIZE
The relationship between grind size, brew time and the amount of brewing water used is incredibly important here. For best results with an Aeropress, you should first decide what kind of cup of coffee you want to drink.
• If you want to brew something short and strong, I suggest starting with a ratio of 100g/l. If you want to brew a little quicker then you will need to grind relatively fine. You can use a coarser grind if you choose but you will need to extend the brewing time for best results.
• If you want something closer to a regular cup of coffee, I suggest using a ratio of 75g/l. This is the same ratio as that recommended for the French press because this is also an immersion brewing method. Again, you can match your brewing time to your grind size.
The Aeropress is like a hand-operated cross between an espresso machine and a filter coffee maker: a piston is used to push water through the grounds and then through a paper filter.
TRADITIONAL AEROPRESS METHOD
This method will allow you to brew slightly more coffee than the inverted method described below. It is also a little less fussy and there is less potential for mess in the kitchen.
Because there are so many factors at play, it is tempting to adjust many variables at once. Pushing harder will speed up the brew but also extract a little more from the coffee; extending the steep time will also extract more, as will grinding the coffee on a finer setting. However, it is always best to change only one thing at a time, and more experimentation simply means more opportunities to drink interesting cups of coffee.
1 Grind the coffee just before you start brewing. Be sure to weigh the coffee first.
2 Put a filter paper into the filter holder and lock into the body of the brewer.
3 Run some hot water through to heat the brewer and rinse the paper.
4 Place a mug on your digital scales, put the main part of the brewer on top and add the coffee. A
5 Boil a kettle of fresh water with a low mineral content, suitable for brewing coffee.
6 Wait ten to twenty seconds after the kettle has boiled, turn on the scales, then add the desired amount of water to the Aeropress (for example, for 15g of coffee I would add 200ml (200g) of water). Start a timer. B
7 Give the coffee a quick stir, then put the piston part of the Aeropress in place. Make sure it seals, but don’t push down yet. This creates a vacuum above the coffee, preventing the liquid from dripping out of the bottom of the brewer before you want it to. C
8 After a period of brewing (I recommend starting with one minute) take the mug and brewer off the scales and slowly push down the plunger until all the liquid has been expelled. D
9 Pull the piston back a few centimetres (1in) to stop the brewer from dripping when you discard the spent coffee. Remove the filter holder and, holding the brewer over the waste bin, push the plunger out to get rid of the grounds. Tap out any loose bits, then immediately rinse and clean the bottom of the piston and brewer. E
10 Enjoy your coffee.
INVERTED AEROPRESS METHOD
I want to describe this method because it is so popular, but also because it often goes wrong. I recommend starting with – and generally using – the traditional method, but if you want to experiment, here is how to do it safely.
The idea behind this alternative method is to invert the device, so that it is impossible for the brewing liquid to escape during the infusion phase. You will have to flip over the brewer full of coffee on to a cup before you push the plunger and this is where things go wrong – vessels full of hot liquid should be flipped with caution. It is also important to note that this method will not allow you to brew as much coffee: the maximum brew is probably 200ml of water.
1 Grind the coffee just before you start brewing. Be sure to weigh the coffee first.
2 Put a filter paper into the filter holder and lock into the body of the brewer.
3 Run some hot water through to heat the brewer and rinse the paper.
4 Insert the piston about 2cm (¾in) into the brewer, turn the device upside down and place it on the digital scales. Add the coffee. A
5 Boil a kettle of fresh water with a low mineral content, suitable for brewing coffee.
6 Wait ten to twenty seconds after the kettle has boiled, turn on the scales, then add the desired amount of hot water to the Aeropress. B
7 Start a timer and give the coffee a quick stir. Steep for one minute.
8 While the coffee is steeping, remove the brewer from the scales. Put the filter holder containing the paper on to the brewer. If you have rinsed the paper it should stick when turned upside down.
9 Slowly pull the top part of the brewer down on to the piston until the liquid is nearly touching the filter. This will make the piston much more stable and less likely to pop off during the flip. C
10 At the end of the steep, place a mug upside down on top of the brewer and, with one hand on each, carefully flip them over. D, E
11 Slowly push down the plunger until all the liquid has been expelled into the mug. F
12 Empty and rinse the brewer.
13 Enjoy your coffee.
STOVE-TOP MOKA POT
Most homes have a moka pot in use or at least buried in a cupboard. In many ways I struggle to explain its popularity, as it is not the most user-friendly device in the world and it is not easy to produce delicious coffee with one. It tends to produce very strong, very bitter coffee but it is sufficiently palatable to espresso drinkers that just about every household in Italy uses one religiously.
The patent for the moka pot belongs to Alfonso Bialetti, who invented it in 1933. The Bialetti company continues to produce very popular brewers today. Moka pots are often still made from aluminium (about which there was a false scare story some years ago), although it is possible, and more desirable, to buy a stainless-steel model.
The method below is a little different to the way most people use their moka pot, but the advice may help even those who are already happy with the coffee they produce from it. My biggest issue with this type of coffee maker is that the brewing water reaches temperatures so high that you start to extract very bitter compounds from the coffee. Some people treasure the bitterness of a moka pot brew, others utterly hate the device because of it. The technique below has helped people find a new respect for their long-forgotten brewer and enjoy their coffee a different way.
However, because of the high coffee to water ratio, and because the brew time is quite fast, it is still difficult to make light-roasted, dense or particularly acidic and juicy coffees taste good using this brewing method. I would recommend using a light espresso roast, or perhaps a coffee that is grown at lower altitudes. I would steer away from dark roasts because of the propensity of this method to produce a bitter cup.
To get the best results from your stove-top moka pot, choose a light espresso roast or coffee grown at lower altitudes. This will avoid making an overly bitter brew.
STOVE-TOP MOKA METHOD
Ratio: 200g/l. In most cases, you do not have much control over the ratio. You simply fill up the ground coffee holder and then fill the unit with water until it reaches just below the overpressure valve, so there is little room for manoeuvre.
Grind: Quite fine/salt. I do not recommend using an espresso/very fine grind, a somewhat controversial stance. I prefer a slightly coarser grind than most people would choose because I prefer to minimize the bitterness in the resulting cup (see Grind Size).
1 Grind the coffee just before you start brewing, and fill the basket so it is even and level. Do not compress the coffee.
2 Boil a kettle of fresh water with a low mineral content, suitable for brewing coffee. The advantage of starting with hot water is that the pot is on the heat for less time and the ground coffee doesn’t get as hot, which helps reduce the bitterness.
3 Fill the bottom section of the brewer with hot water to just below the small valve. Do not cover it with water; it is a safety valve which prevents too much pressure from building up. A<
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4 Put the coffee basket in place. Make sure the circular rubber gasket is completely clean, then carefully assemble the brewer. If this does not seal properly, the brewer will not work properly. B
5 Put the pot on a low to medium heat, leaving the lid up. When the water starts to boil in the lower chamber, the pressure created by the steam pushes the water through the tube that feeds it to the coffee. The faster and harder you boil the water, the more pressure you will create and the faster the brew process will be – you don’t want to go too quickly. C
6 Coffee should slowly start to appear in the top chamber. Listen carefully: when you hear a gurgling sound, it is time to turn off the heat and stop brewing. This sound indicates that most of the water has been pushed up already and that steam is now starting to come through the coffee, which will make the brew more bitter.
7 To stop the brew, run the base of the brewer under cold running water. This drop in temperature will cause the steam to condense and the pressure to disappear. D
8 Enjoy your coffee.
Make sure the brewer has cooled down to a safe temperature before taking it apart for cleaning. It must be completely dry before you put it way. Avoid storing it locked fully into position, as this will cause the rubber seal to age more quickly.
The World Atlas of Coffee: From beans to brewing - coffees explored, explained and enjoyed Page 8
