38. Ibid., p. 289.
39. Ibid., p. 338.
40. Thomas Cook & Son, Programme, p. 4.
TWO Aswan
1. Herodotus, The Persian Wars, Book II:28.
2. Great Hymn to the Aten, Amarna (author’s own translation).
3. John Hanning Speke, quoted in Christopher Ondaatje, “Search for the Source of the Nile,” in Robin Hanbury-Tenison (ed.), The Seventy Great Journeys in History, Thames & Hudson, London, 2006, pp. 196–7.
4. Herodotus, The Persian Wars, Book II:28.
5. Isambard Kingdom Brunel, quoted in Isambard Brunel, The Life of Isambard Kingdom Brunel, Civil Engineer, Nonsuch Publishing, Stroud, 2006 (first published in 1870), p. 378.
6. Ibid., p. 378.
7. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 194.
8. Ibid., p. 392.
9. Ibid., p. 184.
10. MS, personal communication, September 2010.
11. Tomb inscription of Harkhuf, Aswan (author’s own translation).
12. William Willcocks, Sixty Years in the East, William Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh and London, 1935, p. 144.
13. Ibid., p. 155.
14. Sayce, Reminiscences, p. 290.
15. Winston Churchill, quoted in N.A.F. Smith, The Centenary of the Aswan Dam 1902–2002, Thomas Telford Publishing/The Institution of Civil Engineers, London, 2002, p. 54.
16. Lord Cromer, quoted in Smith, Centenary, p. 34.
17. Sayce, Reminiscences, p. 291.
18. Ibid., p. 338.
19. Ibid., p. 292.
20. MS, personal communication, September 2010.
21. Madden, Travels, vol. 2, pp. 115–16.
22. Ancient inscription, quoted in Fagan, The Rape of the Nile, p. 31.
23. I. Philae II 201, published in Jitse Dijkstra, Philae and the End of Ancient Egyptian Religion, Peeters, Leuven, Paris and Dudley, 2008, p. 339.
24. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 207.
25. William Garstin, quoted in Osman Rostem, The Salvage of Philae, Institut Français d’Archéologie Orientale, Cairo, 1955, p. 5.
26. William Willcocks, quoted in Rostem, Philae, p. 14.
27. William Matthew Flinders Petrie, Seventy Years in Archaeology, Sampson Low, Marston & Co., London, 1931, p. 154.
28. Rose Macaulay, Pleasure of Ruins, Thames & Hudson, London, 1966 (first published in 1953), p. 328.
29. Rostem, Philae, pp. 12–13.
30. Ibid., p. 14.
31. Agatha Christie, Death on the Nile, HarperCollins, London, 2001 (first published in 1937), pp. 52–3.
32. W. E. Kingsford, Assouan as a Health Resort, Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent & Co., London, 1899, p. 46.
33. Sadruddin Aga Khan, quoted in Anne Edwards, Throne of Gold: The Lives of the Aga Khans, HarperCollins, London, 1995, p. 222.
THREE The Deep South
1. Winifred Blackman, The Fellahin of Upper Egypt, The American University in Cairo Press, Cairo, 2000 (first published in 1927), p. 280.
2. Admonitions of Ipuwer: 2,12 (tr. Miriam Lichtheim, Ancient Egyptian Literature, vol. 2, University of California Press, Berkeley, 1976, p. 151).
3. Dispute of a Man with His Ba: 79 (tr. Lichtheim, Literature, p. 165).
4. Sayce, Reminiscences, p. 240.
5. Ibid.
6. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 190.
7. Ibid., pp. 406–7.
8. Ibid., p. 125.
9. Ibid., p. 159.
10. Ibid., p. 162.
11. Stela of Qedes from Gebelein (author’s own translation).
12. Ibid.
13. MS, personal communication, September 2010.
FOUR Luxor
1. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 148.
2. Ibid., p. 134.
3. Ibid., p. 135.
4. Dominique Vivant Denon (ed. Bernard Bailly), Les Monuments de la Haute Egypte, Comité Vivant Denon, Université pour Tous de Bourgogne, Chalon-sur-Saône, 2003 (first written down in the late eighteenth/early nineteenth century), p. 20 (author’s own translation).
5. Ibid., p. 58 (author’s own translation).
6. Jean Baptiste Apollinaire Lebas, L’obélisque de Luxor. Histoire de sa translation à Paris, Carilian-Goeury et Vr Dalmont, Paris, 1839, p. 11 (author’s own translation).
7. Jean-François Champollion, quoted in Lebas, L’obélisque, p. 13 (author’s own translation).
8. Baron d’Haussez, writing to Charles X of France on 25 November 1829, quoted in Lebas, L’obélisque, p. 15 (author’s own translation).
9. Lebas, L’obélisque, p. 18 (author’s own translation).
10. Ibid., p. 20 (author’s own translation).
11. Ibid., p. 69 (author’s own translation).
12. Ibid., p. 161 (author’s own translation).
13. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 139.
14. Ibid., p. 139.
15. Ibid., p. 141.
16. Stela of Amenhotep III from Kom el-Hetan (author’s own translation).
17. Stela of Suti and Hor (author’s own translation).
18. Statue of Amenhotep III from Luxor Temple (author’s own translation).
19. David Roberts (memoir, 8), quoted in Krystyna Matyjaszkiewicz, “Roberts, David (1796–1864),” Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, vol. 47, Oxford University Press, Oxford, 2004, p. 146.
20. David Roberts (last will and testament), quoted in Matyjaszkiewicz, “Roberts,” p. 149.
21. David Roberts (record book 1.108), quoted in Matyjaszkiewicz, “Roberts,” p. 148.
22. David Roberts, quoted in Helen Guiterman, David Roberts R.A. 1796–1864, private publication, London, 1978, p. 8.
23. David Roberts, quoted in Guiterman, David Roberts, p. 9.
24. David Roberts, quoted in Guiterman, David Roberts, p. 10.
25. David Roberts, quoted in Guiterman, David Roberts, p. 8.
26. David Roberts (eastern journal, 28 January 1839), quoted in Matyjaszkiewicz, “Roberts,” p. 148.
27. W. E. Nickolls Dunn and George Vigers Worthington, Luxor as a Health Resort, H. K. Lewis, London, 1914, p. 9.
28. Sayce, Reminiscences, p. 211.
29. Lucie Duff Gordon, Letters, p. xiii.
30. Ibid., p. 36.
31. Ibid., p. xi.
32. Ibid., p. 102.
33. Ibid., p. 144.
34. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 454.
35. Ibid., p. 454.
36. Ibid., p. 455.
37. Ibid., p. 455.
38. Ibid., pp. 456–7.
39. Pierre Loti, Egypt, T. Werner Laurie, London, 1910, p. 180.
40. Nickolls Dunn and Worthington, Luxor, p. 10.
41. Ibid., p. 10.
42. Ibid., p. 10.
43. Ibid., p. 10.
44. Ibid., p. 13.
45. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 151.
46. Ibid., p. 148.
47. Ibid., p. 143 footnote.
48. Nitocris Adoption Stela, line 17 (author’s own translation).
49. Ibid., line 16 (author’s own translation).
FIVE Western Thebes
1. Ancient graffito, quoted in Nicholas Reeves and Richard Wilkinson, The Complete Valley of the Kings: Tombs and Treasures of Egypt’s Greatest Pharaohs, Thames & Hudson, London, 1996, p. 50.
2. Statue inscription of Senenmut from Thebes (author’s own translation).
3. Turin Strike Papyrus: recto 2, lines 15–17 (author’s own translation).
4. Giovanni Belzoni, quoted in Brian Fagan, The Rape of the Nile, p. 161.
5. Ancient graffito, quoted in André and Étienne Bernand, Les inscriptions grecques et latines du colosse de Memnon, Institut Français d’Archéologie Orientale, Cairo, 1960, p. 33.
6. Ancient graffito, quoted in Bernand, Les inscriptions, p. 54.
7. Ancient graffito, quoted in Bernand, Les inscriptions, p. 37.
8. Ancient graffito, quoted in Bernand, Les inscriptions, p. 81.
9. Diodorus Siculus (tr. C. H. Oldfather), The Library of History of Diodorus of S
icily, Book I, Harvard University Press/Heinemann, Cambridge MA/London, 1968, 47.
10. Percy Bysshe Shelley, “Ozymandias of Egypt,” in BBC, The Nation’s Favourite Poems, BBC Worldwide, London, 1996, p. 58.
11. Ancient graffito, quoted in Reeves and Wilkinson, Valley of the Kings, p. 50.
12. Strabo, Geography, 1.46.
13. Ancient graffito, quoted in Reeves and Wilkinson, Valley of the Kings, p. 51.
14. Claude Sicard, quoted in Reeves and Wilkinson, Valley of the Kings, p. 52.
15. William Browne, quoted in Reeves and Wilkinson, Valley of the Kings, p. 53.
16. Vivant Denon, quoted in Reeves and Wilkinson, Valley of the Kings, p. 55.
17. Papyrus Amherst, p. 2, lines 3–7 (author’s own translation).
18. Late Ramesside Letters, no. 28 (tr. Vivian Davies and Renée Friedman, Egypt, British Museum Press, London, 1998, p. 149).
19. Walter Scott, quoted in Stanley Mayes, The Great Belzoni, Putnam, London, 1959, p. 11.
20. Sadler’s Wells playbill, quoted in Fagan, The Rape of the Nile, p. 101.
21. Giovanni Battista Belzoni, Narrative of the Operations and Recent Discoveries within the Pyramids, Temples, Tombs, and Excavations, in Egypt and Nubia, 2nd edition, John Murray, London, 1821, p. 37.
22. Ibid., p. 39.
23. Giovanni Belzoni, quoted in Mayes, Belzoni, p. 210.
24. Charles Dickens, quoted in Mayes, Belzoni, p. 12.
25. Theodore Davis et al., The Tombs of Harmhabi and Touatânkhamanou, Constable & Co., London, 1912, p. 3.
SIX Qift and Qena
1. William Matthew Flinders Petrie, Koptos, Quaritch, London, 1896, p. 1.
2. John Wortham, British Egyptology 1549–1906, David & Charles, Newton Abbot, 1971, p. 79.
3. Petrie, Seventy Years, p. 19.
4. Ibid., p. 150.
5. Ibid., p. 150.
6. Ibid., p. 21.
7. Ibid., p. 155.
8. Petrie, Koptos, p. 1.
9. Petrie, Seventy Years, p. 148.
10. Petrie, Koptos, p. 2.
11. Petrie, Seventy Years, p. 151.
12. Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon, Coptos. L’Egypte antique aux portes du désert, Réunion des musées nationaux, Paris, 2000, p. 26.
13. Sharon Herbert and Andrea Berlin, “Excavations at Coptos (Qift) in Upper Egypt, 1987–1992,” Journal of Roman Archaeology, Portsmouth RI, 2003, p. 14.
14. Petrie, Koptos, p. 7.
15. Ibid., plate IX (bottom).
16. Strabo, Geography, 1.46.
17. Petrie, Seventy Years, p. 151.
18. Hans Winkler, Rock Carvings of Southern Upper Egypt, vol. 1, Egypt Exploration Society, Oxford, 1938, p. 6.
19. Ivory label of Den (author’s own translation).
20. Tomb inscription of Mahu, Amarna (author’s own translation).
21. Sayce, Reminiscences, p. 235.
22. Ibid., p. 235.
23. Ibid., p. 236.
24. Jean-François Champollion, quoted in Fagan, The Rape of the Nile, p. 258.
25. A member of Champollion’s expedition, quoted in Fagan, The Rape of the Nile, p. 259.
26. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 124.
SEVEN Abydos
1. Dorothy Eady, quoted in Jonathan Cott (in collaboration with Hanny El Zeini), The Search for Omm Sety: A Story of Eternal Love, Rider, London, 1988, p. 174.
2. William Matthew Flinders Petrie, Royal Tombs of the First Dynasty, vol. I, Quaritch, London, 1900, p. 4.
3. Petrie, Seventy Years, pp. 172–3.
4. Ibid., p. 172.
5. “une bête puante”—Gaston Maspero, quoted in Petrie, Seventy Years, p. 173.
6. Petrie, Royal Tombs, p. 2.
7. Petrie, Seventy Years, p. 178.
8. Ibid., p. 185.
9. Canon H. D. and N. Rawnsley, The Resurrection of Oldest Egypt, Beaver Press, Laleham, 1904, pp. 8 and 15.
10. Stela of Ikhernofret (author’s own translation).
11. Gospel of Thomas, quoted in Elaine Pagels, The Gnostic Gospels, Weidenfeld & Nicolson, London, 1980, p. xv.
12. Secret Book of John, quoted in Pagels, Gospels, p. xvi.
13. Gospel of Philip, quoted in Pagels, Gospels, p. xv.
14. Thunder, Perfect Mind, quoted in Pagels, Gospels, p. xvii.
15. Strabo, Geography, 1.42.
16. Dorothy Eady, quoted in Cott, Omm Sety, p. 61.
17. Dorothy Eady, quoted in Cott, Omm Sety, p. 174.
EIGHT Middle Egypt
1. Isambard Kingdom Brunel, quoted in Brunel, The Life, p. 378.
2. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 97.
3. Béatrix Midant-Reynes (tr. Ian Shaw), The Prehistory of Egypt: From the First Egyptians to the First Pharaohs, Blackwell, Oxford, 2000, p. 152.
4. Boundary stela of Akhenaten, Amarna (author’s own translation).
5. Great Hymn to the Aten, Amarna (author’s own translation).
6. Ibid. (author’s own translation).
7. Tomb inscription of Petosiris, Tuna el-Gebel (tr. Miriam Lichtheim, Ancient Egyptian Literature, vol. 3, University of California Press, Berkeley, 1980, p. 46).
8. Ibid.
9. Aurelius Victor, quoted in Anthony Birley, Hadrian: The Restless Emperor, Routledge, London and New York, 1997, p. 248.
10. Birley, Hadrian, p. 3.
11. Hadrian, quoted in Birley, Hadrian, p. 256.
12. Inscription on the Pincio obelisk, Rome, quoted in Birley, Hadrian, p. 256.
13. Ibid., p. 255.
14. Hadrian, quoted in Royston Lambert, Beloved and God; The Story of Hadrian and Antinous, Weidenfeld & Nicolson, London, 1984, p. 142.
15. Clement of Alexandria, quoted in Lambert, Beloved and God, p. 7.
16. Saint Jerome, quoted in Lambert, Beloved and God, p. 7.
NINE The Fayum
1. Strabo, Geography, 1.35.
2. Ibid.
3. Willeke Wendrich and René Cappers, “Egypt’s earliest granaries: evidence from the Fayum,” Egyptian Archaeology 27 (2005), p. 12.
4. Ibid., p. 15.
5. Heqanakht papers (tr. Richard Parkinson, Voices from Ancient Egypt: An Anthology of Middle Kingdom Writings, University of Oklahoma Press, Norman OK, 1991, p. 103).
6. Ibid., p. 107.
7. Gertrude Caton-Thompson, Mixed Memoirs, The Paradigm Press, Gateshead, 1983, p. 56.
8. Ibid., p. 91.
9. Ibid., p. 110.
10. Papyrus UCL 32795 from Gurob, quoted in Ian Shaw, “Gurob: The key to unlocking a royal harem?,” Current World Archaeology 23 (June/July 2007), p. 18.
11. Sel. Pap. II, 416, quoted in Alan Bowman, Egypt after the Pharaohs, Oxford University Press, Oxford, 1990, p. 172.
12. Flinders Petrie, quoted in Susan Walker and Morris Bierbrier, Ancient Faces. Mummy Portraits from Roman Egypt, British Museum Press, London, 1997, pp. 37–8.
TEN Cairo
1. al-Muqaddasi, The Best Divisions, p. 181 (Arabic text p. 197); the Arabic text refers to Fustat (Old Cairo), rather than the later city.
2. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, pp. 66–7.
3. al-Muqaddasi, The Best Divisions, p. 189 (Arabic text p. 206).
4. Ma’sudi, quoted in Stanley Lane-Poole, A History of Egypt in the Middle Ages, Frank Cass & Co., London, 1968, p. 86.
5. al-Muqaddasi, The Best Divisions, p. 181 (Arabic text p. 197).
6. Ibn Battuta (tr. H.A.R. Gibb), The Travels of Ibn Battuta, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 1958, p. 42.
7. Afaf Lutfi al-Sayyid Marsot, A History of Egypt from the Arab Conquest to the Present, 2nd edition, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 2007, p. 28.
8. Lane-Poole, Egypt in the Middle Ages, p. 216.
9. Naser-e Khosraw (tr. W. M. Thackston, Jr.), Naser-e Khosraw’s Book of Travels, Bibliotheca Persia/The Persian Heritage Fund, New York, 1986, p. 41.
10. Lane, Manners and Customs, p. 496.
11. Ibid., p. 501.
12. Anonymous, quoted in Fagan, The Rape
of the Nile, p. 122.
13. William Fitzmaurice, quoted in Manley and Abdel-Hakim, Traveling Through Egypt, p. 50.
14. J. Lewis-Farley, “Wintering in Egypt,” Belgravia: A London Magazine, vol. 20, no. 77 (March 1873), p. 70.
15. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 3.
16. Ibid., p. 1.
17. Edwards, A Thousand Miles, p. 11.
18. Sheikh al-Mangi, quoted in Philip Mansel, Sultans in Splendour: The Last Years of the Ottoman World, André Deutsch, London, 1988, p. 168.
19. Adel Sabit, A King Betrayed: The Ill-Fated Reign of Farouk of Egypt, Quartet Books, London and New York, 1989, pp. 6–7.
20. King Farouk, quoted in Mansel, Sultans, p. 179.
21. Mansel, Sultans, p. 173.
Further Reading
HISTORY OF EGYPT
Alston, Richard, Soldier and Society in Roman Egypt, Routledge, London and New York, 1995
Bowman, Alan, Egypt After the Pharaohs, Oxford University Press, Oxford, 1990
Cook, Steven, The Struggle for Egypt from Nasser to Tahrir Square, Oxford University Press, Oxford, 2012
Glickman, Mark, Sacred Treasure: The Cairo Genizah, Jewish Lights Publishing, Woodstcock VT, 2011
Mansel, Philip, Sultans in Splendour: The Last Years of the Ottoman World, André Deutsch, London, 1988 (Chapter 11, “The Fall of the Throne of Egypt”)
Marsot, Afaf Lutfi al-Sayyid, A History of Egypt from the Arab Conquest to the Present, 2nd edition, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 2007
Wilkinson, Toby, The Rise and Fall of Ancient Egypt: The History of a Civilisation from 3000 BC to Cleopatra, Bloomsbury, London, 2010
HISTORICAL ACCOUNTS OF NILE TRAVEL
Duff Gordon, Lucie, Letters from Egypt, Virago, London, 1997
Edwards, Amelia, A Thousand Miles up the Nile, Century, London, 1982
Lane, Edward William, An Account of the Manners and Customs of the Modern Egyptians (Written in Egypt During the Years 1833–1835), Darf, London, 1986
TRAVEL AND TRAVELLERS IN EGYPT
Fagan, Brian, The Rape of the Nile: Tomb Robbers, Tourists, and Archaeologists in Egypt, Charles Scribner’s Sons, New York, 1975
Humphreys, Andrew, Grand Hotels of Egypt in the Golden Age of Travel, The American University in Cairo Press, Cairo and New York, 2011
The Nile Page 33
