by Graham Kerr
Basic Recipes
The following section includes the basic recipes, including the ingredients for my Ethmix spice mixtures. In addition, I have included recipes for several whole-grain/starch dishes—even though they cannot be grown in a kitchen garden—because they are integral to a completely well-balanced diet.
ETHMIX RECIPES
The apparent lack of time has become a very real factor for the survival of cooking from scratch and has promoted the increasing availability of convenience and processed foods.
As a result, over my many years of creating recipes, I have been advised by my editors and publishers to limit the number of ingredients in any recipe to eight or so. My problem with this goal is that I seek to replace large amounts of salt, fat, sugar, and refined starch with layers of taste, aroma, color, and texture, and for this I use a variety of herbs, spices, and citrus, which pushes the number of ingredients in most recipes beyond the critical eight!
As an alternative, I chose to combine the following enhancers into just one ingredient, which I call an Ethmix (for “ethnic mixtures,” such as the famed Herbes de Provence or Chinese Five Spice). I offer Ethmix for sale only directly, and because of this limited availability, I’ve provided the recipes so that you can create your own mixings. All are available at $6.95 a bottle plus shipping and handling. Order by phone at 360-387-3807 or by fax at 360-387-1898.
BALI
¾ teaspoons ground bay leaves
4 teaspoons ground ginger
3 teaspoons ground turmeric
1½ teaspoons dried onion
1½ teaspoons dried garlic
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
6 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes
GERMANY
16 whole juniper berries
1 teaspoon dried Cascade hops
1 teaspoon dried morel mushroom powder
4 teaspoons dried chives
2 teaspoons horseradish powder (wasabi)
2 teaspoons caraway powder
8 teaspoons dried marjoram
2 teaspoons ground white pepper
GREEK ISLANDS
4 tablespoons dried oregano
6 teaspoons ground fennel seeds
6 teaspoons dried lemongrass
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
HARISSA
3 teaspoons caraway seeds
1½ teaspoons ground cumin
6 teaspoons powdered coriander
12 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes
INDIA
5 teaspoons ground turmeric
2½ teaspoons dry mustard
5 teaspoons ground cumin
5 teaspoons ground coriander
1¼ teaspoons ground red pepper (cayenne)
2½ teaspoons ground dill seeds
2½ teaspoons ground cardamom seeds
2½ teaspoons ground fenugreek seeds
MOROCCO
5 teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg
5 teaspoons ground cumin
5 teaspoons ground coriander
2½ teaspoons ground allspice
2½ teaspoons ground ginger
1¼ teaspoons ground red pepper (cayenne)
1¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon
NORTHERN FRANCE
10 teaspoons dried tarragon
1¼ teaspoons powdered bay leaf
5 teaspoons dried thyme
½ teaspoon ground cloves
10 teaspoons dried chervil
NORTHWEST ITALY
8 teaspoons dried oregano
4 teaspoons dried basil
4 teaspoons ground fennel seeds
4 teaspoons rubbed sage
2 teaspoons dried rosemary
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
3 tablespoons hot red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons crushed dried dill
2¾ teaspoons ground ginger
2¾ teaspoons ground anise
POLAND
4 teaspoons caraway powder
1½ teaspoons dried marjoram
3 whole juniper berries
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
¾ teaspoon white pepper
SCANDINAVIA
4½ teaspoons horseradish powder (wasabi)
2¼ teaspoons caraway seeds
3 tablespoons dried parsley
2¼ teaspoons dried morel mushroom powder
2¼ teaspoons dried seaweed
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
½ teaspoon ground allspice
4¼ teaspoons sea salt
½ teaspoon dried dill weed
SHANGHAI COASTLINE
3 tablespoons hot red pepper flakes
2¾ teaspoons ground ginger
2¾ teaspoons ground anise
SOUTHERN FRANCE
2½ teaspoons dried rosemary
2½ teaspoons dried basil
5 teaspoons rubbed sage
1¼ teaspoons powdered bay leaf
5 teaspoons dried marjoram
5 teaspoons dried oregano
THAILAND
10 teaspoons dried lemongrass
5 teaspoons galangal
1½ teaspoons ground red pepper (cayenne)
1¼ teaspoons dried spearmint
5 teaspoons dried cilantro
2½ teaspoons dried basil
VEGETABLE STOCK
This low-sodium recipe does better than using odd trimmings, which in turn does better than using plain water! (Please note: I consider the turnip to be essential.)
MAKES 4 CUPS
1 teaspoon nonaromatic olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, bashed
½ teaspoon freshly grated gingerroot
½ cup coarsely chopped carrot
1 cup coarsely chopped celery
1 cup coarsely chopped turnip
¼ cup coarsely chopped leeks, white and light green parts only
3 sprigs parsley
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
5 cups water
Pour the oil into a large stockpot over medium, add the onion and garlic, and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the rest of the ingredients and cover with the water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer 30 minutes. Strain through a finemesh sieve and cheesecloth. Use immediately or date and freeze for later use in 2-cup quantities.
Per serving: 12 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 g carbohydrate, 0 g protein, 0 g dietary fiber, 1 mg sodium. Exchanges: Free Food
PIE CRUST
This crust reduces the calories from fat but still provides a flaky tender crust that is best used as a pie topper—not top and bottom! You can make enough for two tops or a bottom if you must!
1½ cups cake flour
1 teaspoon sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons nonaromatic olive oil
¼ cup unsalted stick butter, frozen for
15 minutes (easier to cut)
1 teaspoon vinegar
4 tablespoons ice water
Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor. Pour in the oil and pulse until mixed. Cut the butter into small pieces and add to the flour mixture. Pulse 10 times or until the mixture is full of lumps the size of small peas.
Pour in the vinegar and ice water. Pulse 10 more times or until the dough begins to hold together. Gather into 2 equal balls, wrap separately, and refrigerate at least 30 minutes before rolling out.
Alternatively, you can make this dough by hand. Combine the flour, sugar, and salt, and stir in the oil. Add the butter and mix with a pastry cutter or two knives until the size of small peas. Add the vinegar and ice water, and mix with a fork just until it starts to hold together. Gather into 2 balls, wrap, and refrigerate at least 30 minutes before rolling out. Per serving ( recipe): 78 calories, 5 g fat, 2 g saturated fat (11% calories from saturated fat), 10 g carbohydrate, 2 g protein, 0 g dietary fiber, 52 mg sodium. Exchanges: ½ Starch, 1 Fat
ITALIAN BREAD WITH OLIVES AND ROSEMARY
I’ve included this rustic homemade bread because a vegetable
-only meal is greatly improved with such a chewable side dish.
SERVES 12
1 teaspoon dry yeast
1 cup warm water
⅝ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
2-2¾ cups all-purpose flour
2 sweet onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 red bell peppers, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 garlic cloves, peel on
1 teaspoon olive oil
12 sun-dried tomato halves, cut into strips
12 black olives, pitted and quartered
Pinch kosher or sea salt
Sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in a large bowl and let set until creamy, about 10 minutes. Stir in ½ teaspoon of the salt, the oregano, basil, and rosemary. Add 2 cups of the flour and mix thoroughly, adding more flour until you have a nice medium firm dough. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead until the dough is smooth and springy, at least 5 minutes. Place the dough in an oiled bowl, cover, and allow to rise 1½-2 hours in a warm, draftfree place until doubled in volume.
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Toss the onions, peppers, and garlic with ½ teaspoon of the oil in a baking dish. Sprinkle with the remaining ⅛ teaspoon of salt. Bake 25 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and just browned and the garlic is soft. Cool before using. Peel the garlic and cut into small pieces.
Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F. Grease a 10-inch ovenproof skillet or pie pan.
Spread the dough into a large rectangle. Scatter the vegetable mixture evenly over the top. Add the sun-dried tomato pieces and black olives and fold in the sides. Knead the vegetables into the dough until they are well distributed throughout. Put the dough in the prepared skillet. Allow it to rise about 30 minutes until almost doubled in size.
Make deep dimples into the slightly risen dough with your fingertips. Brush the remaining ½ teaspoon of oil over the top and scatter on a pinch of kosher salt. Bake 30 minutes or until golden brown. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes before cutting.
Per serving: 116 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 24 g carbohydrate, 3 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 91 mg sodium. Exchanges: 1½ Starch
YOGURT CHEESE
Strained Yogurt
I’m loath to overstate the value of any one food or idea. However, the consistent use of yogurt cheese instead of butter, margarine, or cream has made a huge difference in my family’s consumption of calories from saturated fat. In our case, the actual savings over one year amounts to more than 40,000 calories, or about 11 pounds of body fat!
MAKES 16 1-TABLESPOON SERVINGS
1 (32-ounce) tub of nonfat plain yogurt that contains no thickeners (such as gelatin, starch, or cornstarch) of any kind11
Place a yogurt strainer or a colander lined with absorbent kitchen toweling, inside a larger bowl (to catch the whey). Turn the yogurt into the strainer or lined colander, and cover and place in the refrigerator for 12 hours or overnight. About 50 percent of the whey drains away, and you are left with yogurt cheese that is quite firm.
OTHER WAYS TO USE YOGURT CHEESE BESIDES IN THE RECIPES:
Add soft light margarine (with no trans-fatty acids) in equal proportions with the yogurt cheese to create a spread. Or use ⅔ yogurt cheese and ⅓ margarine for even less fat and fewer calories.
Mix with maple syrup to serve alongside a slice of pie.
Substitute for sour cream with a baked potato, adding fresh ground pepper and chives.
Serve as a sauce with poached chicken, using the yogurt cheese and chicken stock thickened with cornstarch, and garnished with capers, pimiento, and a dash of parsley on the top.
Per serving: 12 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 2 g carbohydrate, 1 g protein, 0 g dietary fiber, 17 mg sodium. Exchanges: Free Food
Grains and Starches
BARLEY WITH LEEKS
If you are someone who has followed my work (and profound changes) over the years, you will know that the acronym TACT means taste, aroma, color, and texture—the basic elements of food pleasure. Texture is last but not least. In fact, the reason why fats are so well liked is because of their texture or sense of mouthroundfulness. So texture is vital! I use pot barley, not the more refined pearl barley, to add texture. I brew up a batch of the following recipe and keep it frozen in 1-cup portions. It also works wonders with soups that can do with more body.
MAKES 12 PORTIONS
1 teaspoons olive oil
2 leeks, white and light green parts only, cleaned and roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, bashed and finely chopped
3 cups pot barley
6 cups filtered water
1 teaspoon salt
Heat the oil in a medium or large saucepan over medium heat, and sauté the leeks and garlic 5 minutes. Rinse the barley in a strainer and stir into the leeks. Add the water and salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce to simmer and cover. Cook 45 minutes (30 minutes for pearl barley); barley should still be slightly resistant to the teeth.
Per serving: 117 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 23 g carbohydrate, 4 g protein, 5 g dietary fiber, 144 mg sodium
BOIL ’N’ STEAM BROWN RICE
I have never been a great fan of brown rice. It always seemed so stodgy and broken by overcooking. Then we found this long-grain brown rice, used my old boil ’n’ steam method for long-grain converted white rice, and it worked well. It does take an extra 10 minutes or so, though, so we always make double and freeze the unused portion. Brown rice is a better choice for diabetics, who need to slow down the conversion to sugars.
MAKES 4 ¾-CUP SERVINGS
1 cup long-grain brown rice
5 cups filtered water
½ teaspoon salt
Put rice in a strainer or sieve and wash well under running cold water. In a medium saucepan, bring the water and salt to a boil. Add the rice, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook 30 minutes.
In a second pot, bring water to a boil and place a hand sieve on top. When the rice is finished boiling, turn it into the sieve, cover tightly, and let steam for 8-10 minutes.
Per serving: 171 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 36 g carbohydrate, 4 g protein, 2 g dietary fiber, 306 mg sodium
COUSCOUS
North African Durum Semolina Grains
This classic starch consists of dry, fluffy, tiny granules, and most commercially available types are, in fact, presteamed and dried, and can be made in less than 6 minutes. Varieties distinguished by larger granules take longer to cook and don’t have the same fine texture but are equally good. Couscous does a fine job of soaking up gravy and can also form the base of an excellent light-starch salad. It is usually cooked in water, but I greatly prefer using vegetable stock.
One cup dry will make 3½ cups cooked. I use ½ cup of lightly packed cooked couscous for a side dish, and a full cup for a salad base.
SERVES 6-7
1¾ cups low-sodium vegetable stock
(see page 288) or water
1 cup couscous
1 teaspoon salt (if water is used)
Bring the stock to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the couscous and stir four or five times. Remove from the heat, cover, and allow to plump up for 5 minutes. With a fork, gently tease the mix to separate the grains.
Per ½ cup serving: 99 calories, 0 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 3 g protein, 20 g carbohydrate, 3 g protein, 31 g dietary fiber, 28 mg sodium
LENTILS IN A CUMIN-FLAVORED BROTH
We really love lentils, and more so now that we’ve visited India. Dahl is a deeply seasoned lentil dish served in India as often as rice or beans are served in Mexican traditions. It’s important to use a good stock at a slow simmer and to catch the lentils when just done—before they begin to mush. They are helpful for folks with diabetes because their high fiber content slows down the conversion to sugar.
SERVES 4
1 cup lentils (green, brown, or red)
1½ cups low-sodium v
egetable stock
(see page 288) or water
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt to taste
Wash the lentils well and spread them out to dry. Discard any broken or discolored pieces. Measure the remaining ingredients.
Bring the stock to a boil in a medium saucepan. Pour the lentils slowly into the boiling water and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook 40 minutes. In the last 10 minutes, add the cumin. Taste and add salt only if really necessary!
Per serving made with water: 169 calories, 1 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 28 g carbohydrate, 14 g protein, 15 g dietary fiber, 3 mg sodium
QUINOA
Pronounced keen-wa, this seed grain, which has been cultivated in South America for more than 5,000 years, is a very attractive starch alternative to the standard potato, pasta, or rice. It also provides an excellent base for a combined salad. Note: Leftovers freeze well.
MAKES 4 ½-CUP SERVINGS
1 cup water
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup quinoa
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley or cilantro
2 teaspoons wild mushroom powder (optional)
Bring the water and salt to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the quinoa all at once. Stir once to get the seeds off the bottom of the pan. When the water comes back to a boil, turn the heat to low, cover, and cook 14 minutes or until the grain absorbs all the liquid. Stir in the parsley. Add the powdered wild mushrooms for flavor if desired.
Per serving: 106 calories, 3 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 27 g carbohydrate, 6 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 148 mg sodium
EPILOGUE
Sharing the Harvest
A Commitment to Community
My kitchen garden is a metaphor for our community. The soil is like a gathering place; the seeds are words we use to communicate. The wiser the words, the better we grow to understand what is true, and it is shared truth that governs the actions that can lead to a peaceful community.
