by Casey, Susan
Praise for The Devil’s Teeth
“Susan Casey’s lively portrait of life among Northern California’s white sharks and the dogged researchers who study them indulges in just the right mix of anxiety, gore and reassuring shark science. One can find reason to fear the waves and then muster the courage to enter them, usually within the same chapter…. The sharks are the stars of Casey’s story, but the Farallones steal the show.”
—The New York Times Book Review
“Extraordinary.”
—Men’s Journal
“[A] page-turner…‘Los Farallones’ remain icons of the elemental and the wild. Most visitors can only glimpse them from afar, from a whale watch or dive boat. So true insight has to come from someone privileged to live on the rocks with the tiny crew of professional biologists that dwell in weathered old Coast Guard housing. This book makes the most of that sort of insider access…. A fine read. The book gives you a way of reaching these mysterious isles without getting wet. Or seasick.”
—San Francisco Chronicle
“Casey’s chronicle of how this unique environment survived nuclear contamination and endless harebrained development schemes (including the proposed relocation of Alcatraz) is one of many stranger-than-fiction elements. As the shark trivia and anecdotes about the islands’ Wild West past give way to a hair-raising account of an ill-fated shark-tagging mission, Casey becomes an increasingly active participant in the story while offering skillfully wrought descriptions of nature’s inscrutable fury. B+.”
—Entertainment Weekly
“A chilling dispatch from the great white shark-filled waters off San Francisco.”
—Life
“Chilling…A lively and detailed account…vivid.”
—USA Today
“An evocative and entertaining account of the cutting edge of marine biology.”
—New Scientist
“Casey has a flair for dramatic descriptions, able to capture the characters she encounters or the landscape around her with equal aplomb…[Paints] a gripping portrait of scientists on the outer fringes of society and nature.”
—Seattle Post-Intelligencer
“Casey creates compelling portraits of the legendary predators, as well as of the scientists.”
—People
“You can’t help but be entertained by a writer who is affectionate about a shark’s ‘maniac smile’ and thinks a petrel smells ‘musky and heavy and sort of smoky, like the bird had been part of an all-night poker game.’ Being seduced into caring about the survival of a ’20-foot-long, eight-foot-wide, six-foot-deep’ nightmare beast is a much harder job, and Casey accomplishes even that without hardly trying. Her book is an exhilarating reminder that there are elements of both wonder and revulsion in all things sublime.”
—Newsday
“Guaranteed to scare people right out of the water.”
—Associated Press
“A rare sort of adventure story, which she tells with verve and great sympathy for the islands, the sharks and the biologists. But another poignant theme resonates through the book as well…Great whites provide Casey a meaning to life beyond the human, Thoreau’s ‘tonic of wildness.’”
—The Oregonian
“Casey delivers amazing details…The Devil’s Teeth will surely satisfy your appetite for all things fanged and finned.”
—National Geographic Adventure
“Riveting and colorful you-are-there adventure.”
—Santa Cruz Sentinel
“I read Susan Casey’s book in a feeding frenzy, satisfying my curiosity while fueling my fascination with sharks. A thoroughly researched and well-written piece of literature that raises hairs as well as tickling funny bones, The Devil’s Teeth artfully reveals what lurks in the shadows of the mysterious great white and the people obsessed with them. The true triumph of the book, though, is in Casey’s transcendence of mere journalism—she’s clearly embraced by the world of which she writes.”
—Linda Greenlaw, author of The Hungry Ocean and All Fishermen Are Liars
“A marvelous book—part adventure, part meditation, part natural history—that takes the reader on a wild ride into a strange and seductive world. Casey is the perfect diving companion; her account of life among San Francisco’s shark population is engaging, smart, and irresistible.”
—Susan Orlean, author of My Kind of Place and The Orchid Thief
“In delivering us to the Farallon Islands, and then into the souls of the magnificent great white sharks that populate its waters, Susan Casey has really delivered us into the DNA of our own beings. The Devil’s Teeth is more than a shark story; it is an account of our instincts, our appetites, even our futures, all beautifully told by a writer compelled to know.”
—Robert Kurson, author of Shadow Divers
“‘There’s another world, and it’s in this one,’” declares Susan Casey, reveling in the surreality of her days and nights spent among the world’s coolest, cold-eyed customers, great white sharks. Who knew these beasts lived so close to San Francisco, within the pizza delivery zone of that fair city? Casey is a poet, a bare-knuckled spirit, unabashed and funny, and hers is an entrancing ride to a beautiful, forbidding place, a new world, close by. Hang on.”
—Doug Stanton, author of In Harm’s Way
“Susan Casey could write about guppies, and I’d want to read her book. I devoured this book like a shark.”
—Mary Roach, author of Stiff
To my family:
Ron, Angela, Bob, and Bill,
who taught me to love the wild things.
Humanity is exalted not because we are so far
above all living creatures, but because knowing
them well elevates the very concept of life.
—EDWARD O. WILSON
Every angel is terrifying.
—RAINER MARIA RILKE
Contents
Introduction
Book One The Island
Chapter 1
Chapter 2
Chapter 3
Chapter 4
Chapter 5
Book Two Shark Season
Chapter 6
Chapter 7
Chapter 8
Chapter 9
Chapter 10
Chapter 11
Epilogue
Selected Bibliography
Author’s Note
About the Author
Introduction
An ocean without its unnamed monsters would be like a completely dreamless sleep.
—JOHN STEINBECK, THE LOG FROM THE SEA OF CORTEZ
The killing took place at dawn and as usual it was a decapitation, accomplished by a single vicious swipe. Blood geysered into the air, creating a vivid slick that stood out on the water like the work of a violent abstract painter. Five hundred yards away, outside of a lighthouse on the island’s highest peak, a man watched through a telescope. First he noticed the frenzy of gulls, bird gestalt that signaled trouble. And then he saw the blood. Grabbing his radio, he turned and began to run.
His transmission jolted awake the four other people on the island. “We’ve got an attack off Sugarloaf, big one it looks like. Lotta blood.” The house at the bottom of the hill echoed with the sounds of scientist Peter Pyle hurrying, running down the stairs, pulling on his knee-high rubber boots, slamming the old door behind him as he sprinted to the boat launch.
Peter and his colleague Scot Anderson, the voice on the radio, jumped into their seventeen-foot Boston Wha
ler. The boat rested on a bed of rubber tires beside a cliff; it was attached to a crane which lifted it up and into the air. The crane swung the whaler over the lip and lowered it thirty feet, into the massive early winter swells of the Pacific.
Peter unhooked the winch, an inch-thick cable of steel, as the whaler rose and fell into troughs big enough to swallow it. He started the engine and powered two hundred yards toward the birds, where the object of all the attention floated in a cloud of blood: a quarter-ton elephant seal that was missing its head. The odor was dense and oily, rancid Crisco mixed with seawater.
“Oh yeah,” Peter said. “That’s the smell of a shark attack.”
In a world where very little is known for certain, they knew that below them a great white shark was orbiting, waiting for the seal to bleed some more, and that this shark would soon be returning for breakfast. It might be Betty or Mama or the Cadillac, one of the huge females that patrolled the east side of the island. These big girls, all of them over seventeen feet long, were known as the Sisterhood. Or it might be a “smaller” male (thirteen or fourteen feet), like Spotty or T-Nose or the sneaky Cal Ripfin. These sharks were called the Rat Pack. It might be any number of great whites. At this time of the year there were scores of them cruising this 120-acre patch of sea, swimming close to the shoreline of Southeast Farallon Island as hapless seals washed out of finger gulleys at high tide and into the danger zone.
In any given year more than a thousand people will be maimed by toilet bowl cleaning products or killed by cattle. Fewer than a dozen will be attacked by a great white shark. In this neighborhood, however, those odds do not count. At the Farallon Islands, during the months of September through November, your chance of meeting a great white face-to-face is better than even money, should you be crazy enough or unlucky enough to end up in the water.
The two men stood at the stern holding long poles capped with video cameras. There were several beats of the kind of absolute silence that you hardly ever get in life, eerie moments when time seemed to stop and even the birds became quiet. Then, fifty yards away, the ocean swirled into a boil.
The dorsal fin of myth and nightmare rose from below and came tunneling toward them like a German U-boat, creating a sizable wake. The shark made a tight pass around the boat, pulling up just short of the stern. Its body, which was almost black as it broke the surface, glowed with cobalt and turquoise highlights underwater. “He’s coming up!” Peter yelled. The whaler rocked. A massive triangle of a head lifted out of the water and, in a surprisingly delicate way, bit the back corner of the boat. Scot leaned closer and filmed. The shark’s black eyes rolled; they could plainly see the scars all over its head and its two-inch-long teeth, backed by rows of spare two-inch-long teeth. Then, as quickly as it had come, the shark slipped beneath the surface, dove under the boat, and reemerged next to the seal. As the great white snatched the carcass, shaking it, bright orange blood burst from the sides of its mouth.
“It’s Bitehead!” Scot said. He broke into a full-face smile beneath his wraparound sunglasses.
“Ah, Bitehead,” Peter said. There was a moment of pleased recognition, as if greeting a fond acquaintance they had just happened to run into on the street. “We’ve known this shark for ten years.”
EVERY SEPTEMBER, ONE OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST AND DENSEST congregations of great white sharks assembles in the waters surrounding the Farallon Islands, a 211-acre archipelago of ten islets in the Pacific, twenty-seven miles due west of the Golden Gate Bridge. No one fully understands what this gathering represents, why great whites, the ocean’s most solitary hunters, choose to reside for a period of time in such close quarters. What’s known for sure is that the sharks remain at this location for approximately three months. And this: having studied them for over a decade and a half in the Farallon White Shark Project, Scot Anderson and Peter Pyle have discovered that year after year, the same sharks return to exactly the same spot.
This annual reunion is at least partly about hunting. Despite strange inventories of items found in the bellies of sharks—a cuckoo clock, a fur cape, license plates and lobster traps, a buffalo head, an entire reindeer, and even, in one unlikely scenario, a man dressed in a full suit of armor—what great whites really love to eat are seals. And the Farallones are dripping with seals—northern elephant seals, harbor seals, fur seals, seals, seals, seals—all barking and bellowing, draped on the rocks like a blubbery carpet.
It wasn’t always this way. The islands’ seals, which once numbered in the tens of thousands, were hunted almost to extinction 150 years ago. Only after Southeast Farallon Island, the largest in the group, became a wildlife refuge in 1969 did the populations begin to recover. And as the seals returned, no one was happier to see them than the sharks. In 1970 Farallon biologists witnessed their first shark attack, on a Steller’s sea lion, a brawny animal that itself looks like a predator. During the next fifteen years, more than one hundred attacks on seals and sea lions were observed at close range. But the sharks were only warming up. By the year 2000, Peter and Scot were logging almost eighty attacks in a single season. Still, even accounting for the allure of a seal smorgasbord, why did these particular sharks keep returning? And why were they clustered together so tightly? No one had ever documented such behavior among great whites before.
Not that anyone’s had the opportunity. The Farallon Islands are the only place on Earth where it’s possible to study great white sharks behaving naturally in the wild. Unsubjected, that is, to the presence and fumblings of humans. In South Africa’s “Shark Alley,” near the town of Gaansbai, the channel is stained red with chum, and often there are a dozen boats banging up against each other while as many as sixty divers sardined into steel cages clog the thousand-yard-wide passage. In Australia, great white sharks contend with underwater electrical charges, beaches ringed by netting, trophy fishing, and more chumming. The Farallon great whites, on the other hand, are largely unharassed. They might cross paths with the occasional boatload of day-trippers from San Francisco, but they’re subjected to none of the behavior-altering coercion that nature’s top predators regularly endure so that people can sit in the Winnebago or tundra buggy or safari truck and get a look at them.
This is important because despite their visibility at the Farallones, and despite the impressive truth that sharks are so old they predate trees, great whites have remained among the most mysterious of creatures. Even now, after the human genome has been reduced to an alphabet set and spaceships are trolling around on Mars, scientists are still missing some basic information about the species.
How long do they live? Unknown. (But probably at least thirty years, considering that white sharks don’t mature until they’re over ten years old, all the sharks at the Farallones are adults, and some individuals have been showing up for more than a decade. There are scientists who speculate that they live as long as sixty years, but that remains unproven.)
Where do they mate, or when, or how often, or even how? There are clues to the sex lives of great white sharks, but no facts. Scot and Peter have discovered that, while the males return annually, the females return only every other year, often with fresh, deep bites around their heads. Are these wounds related to mating? Do the females spend their off years giving birth in warmer waters? For that matter, how many great whites are there in the oceans? All of this is a complete mystery. Even the seasonal population at the Farallones is a wild guess: anywhere from thirty to one hundred.
Then, of course, there’s the question of size: Exactly how big can these sharks get? And once again there are no straight answers. Because their skeletons are made of cartilage rather than bone, they’ve left virtually no fossil record aside from teeth. The largest great white shark to have been caught and precisely measured was nineteen and a half feet long, but there have been credible, if unverifiable, reports of much larger animals. Nothing would be too surprising. Sharks are the heavyweight champions of evolution; they’ve been fine-tuning their act for ages, hundreds of mill
ions of years before party-crashing humans were even a glimmer in the primordial eye. They’re resistant to infections, circulatory disease, and, to a large extent, cancer. They heal rapidly from severe injuries such as lacerated corneas or deep gouges. Everything about the animal is stacked toward survival. From the moment baby whites are born, four-foot-long replicas of their mother, they are already in pursuit of their first meal; from hundreds of yards away they can detect minute millivolt electrical impulses given off by their prey’s heartbeat.
Like the great white itself, the Farallon Islands are a nearly perfect freak of nature. Their ecology is a house of cards—an intricate confluence of ocean and seals and birds and sharks, all circling back on each other, everything existing in sublime balance. But in nature, complexity also means fragility. Though the islands are part of the 1,255-square-mile Gulf of the Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, that sanctuary happens to straddle the West Coast’s busiest shipping lanes. In 1971, 840,000 gallons of oil oozed into the Gulf of the Farallones, killing more than twenty thousand seabirds. Thirteen years later, in 1984, a tanker exploded and deposited 1.4 million gallons of crude. And right now, hundreds of ships are scattered on the nearby seafloor, poised to begin blurping up oil like toxic lava lamps as the salt water slowly eats away their hulls. Factor in the presence of a sunken ten-thousand-ton aircraft carrier once used for nuclear target practice and forty-eight thousand barrels of radioactive waste, and the picture gets even more precarious.
The islands themselves are fragile, hollow in places, and made of eighty-nine-million-year-old granite, much of which has gone rotten and crumbles to the touch. The word farallon is Spanish for “rocky islet in the ocean” (the plural is farallones, pronounced “fair-alons”), and some, like Middle Farallon, known locally as “the Pimple,” are really more like protruding rocks than actual islands. All ten are part of the ragged edge of the continental shelf as it juts out of the Pacific before plunging two miles—the depth of the Grand Canyon—into darkness. Technically, the Farallones are just an exotic suburb of San Francisco, as they lie within the city limits. But few of the Bay Area’s seven million residents are aware of their existence. And even supposing someone knew that the Farallones were out there, he surely wouldn’t have any idea of the violent, desperate history of the place: the accidents, the murders, the forgotten town, the homegrown war. Each year there are fewer and fewer people alive who remember the stories. On satellite photos of the Bay Area, the Farallones are usually cropped out of the frame.
