The Meat Racket: The Secret Takeover of America's Food Business

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by Christopher Leonard


  lack of sentimentality in, 48, 56–57

  shipping business of, 48, 51, 52–53

  Tyson, Johnny, 160–62, 167, 180, 264, 306, 307, 308

  as CEO of Tyson Foods, 167, 169, 176–80

  chairman appointment of, 163–64

  childhood of, 161–62

  drug and alcohol abuse of, 162, 164, 167

  explosive temper of, 161, 178

  father’s tutoring of, 161–62

  IBP acquisition and, 174–76

  internal coup against, 178–80

  lack of respect among executives for, 161, 162, 164

  rebranding campaigns of, 176–78, 179, 180

  Tyson’s struggles under leadership of, 164, 167–69

  Tyson, Randall, 88

  Tyson Feed and Hatchery, 63

  bookkeeping department of, 63, 64, 68, 71–72, 73

  control of chicken farmers by, 62

  cost-cutting ethos at, 59, 60, 67, 78, 79

  creation of, 56

  debts of, 75, 76, 77–78, 80

  depression of prices paid to farmers by, 79

  egg-laying farms at, 78–79, 80

  in emergence of contract farming, 68, 70, 71

  expansion of, 57, 58, 60, 64, 68, 69

  farm ownership experiment of, 22, 23, 71

  feed mills of, 58, 59, 61, 72

  field technicians at, 59, 69, 71

  first slaughterhouse built by, 60–61, 169–70

  government inspections failed by, 61

  grocery and restaurant contracts of, 54, 60, 62, 65–66, 73, 76

  growing customer base of, 58, 60, 62, 64–65

  hatcheries of, 58, 59, 61, 62, 72, 78, 79–80, 87

  1961 financial crisis and, 76–80, 81, 266

  organized chaos in early years of, 64, 65

  origins of, 46, 48, 51, 52–56, 66, 92, 161

  production scale-backs at, 77, 78

  profits of, 58, 59

  public offering decision of, 80–81, 92

  slaughterhouse of, 60–61, 62, 66, 72, 169

  Springdale offices of, 58, 63–64, 65, 74

  tax evasion of, 66, 71–74

  trucking lines of, 58, 59, 61, 62, 72

  vertical integration of, 56, 58, 61, 62, 65, 66, 78

  weekly managers’ meetings at, 74–76, 77, 155

  Tyson Foods, 80–81, 92, 97, 98, 105, 118, 120, 135, 136, 138–39, 151, 161–62, 189, 240, 244, 245, 246, 251, 253, 261, 279, 291, 295, 303, 308, 310–11, 318–19

  antibiotics used by, 7–8

  Berryville complex of, 317

  biological innovations spearheaded by, 5–6, 92, 109, 157

  breeding techniques at, 21, 92, 157, 159, 167

  Broiler Office of, 33–35, 36, 37

  centralization of control at, 20, 21, 33, 34, 159, 229, 265–66, 270–71

  “Class B” shares of, 162

  Clinton as political patron of, 262, 268, 310

  close monitoring of farms’ efficiency and profitability by, 20, 24, 33, 34, 115, 126, 130, 131

  competition among top executives at, 93, 96, 160, 161

  contract farming networks of, 7, 8, 29, 72, 105, 106, 140, 143;, 159, 200, 221, 226, 231, 243, 270, 310, 314, 316; see also contract farmers

  control of food markets by, 108, 110, 111, 114, 115, 176, 184, 204, 209, 266, 269, 270, 271, 273, 274, 275, 284, 310, 312, 313, 318

  “Cornish game hens” gimmick of, 86–87

  corporate workforce expansion at, 177, 178, 180

  cost-cutting ethos at, 46, 102, 105, 106, 179–80, 312, 314, 315

  cost models used at, 95–96

  culture of placing blame on farmers in, 44, 103–4, 126, 130

  debts of, 98, 175, 176

  depression of prices paid to farmers by, 4, 7, 25, 31, 35, 46, 116–18, 119, 122, 126, 127, 132, 168, 188, 192, 203, 204, 269, 275, 312

  diseased birds delivered by, 9, 17–20, 27–29, 32, 37, 38, 39–40, 41, 43–44, 103, 118, 133–34, 135, 136, 137

  Donnie Smith as CEO of, 305, 311–12, 313

  Don Tyson as maintaining control in, 162, 163, 178–79, 305–6

  Don Tyson as stepping away from daily operations at, 159–60, 162, 163, 166

  egg-laying farms of, 103, 270

  as escaping public scrutiny, 3, 8

  expansion of, 81–82, 85–86, 87, 93, 97–100, 101, 102, 108, 110, 111, 140, 145, 152, 155, 156, 157, 159, 167, 176, 177, 180, 306, 308, 310, 314, 318

  farm/manufacturer hybrid quality of, 66, 98

  fast-food contracts of, 30–31, 95, 98, 101, 107, 108, 109, 159, 169, 178, 225, 267, 275, 306, 311

  feed mills of, 5, 8, 21, 24, 30, 33, 83, 103, 105, 134, 316

  field technicians at, 9, 17, 18–20, 24, 28–32, 34, 39–40, 44, 102–4, 118, 120, 126, 137–38, 151, 192–93

  financial losses in poultry division of, 264, 265, 266, 267, 270, 305

  globalization of, 306, 308

  government intervention as beneficial for, 58, 145, 166

  government regulations evaded by, 66, 85

  Green Forest plant of, 106–8

  grocery and chain supplier contracts with, 3, 31, 83, 158, 159, 169, 178, 225, 265, 267, 275, 288, 311

  growing customer base of, 98, 101, 108, 159

  hatcheries of, 5, 19, 21, 36–37, 44, 83, 103, 108, 134, 270

  hidden prevalence of products supplied by, 2–3, 177, 178, 179, 311

  hog farming division of, see Tyson Foods, hog division of

  improving of complex efficiency at, 105–6, 107

  industry dominance of, 3, 4, 5, 6–7, 108, 110, 111, 114, 145, 159, 160, 169, 174, 175, 176, 180, 204, 208–9, 233, 235, 266, 273, 281n, 318

  Intensified Management Status program of, 126, 130, 131

  internal coup at, 178–80

  Johnny Tyson as CEO of, 167, 169, 174–75, 176–80

  Johnny Tyson named chairman of, 163–64

  labor disputes and, 83–85, 256

  lawsuits filed against, 37, 100, 257, 269, 283, 317

  lobbying operation of, 251n, 279, 286, 292, 295

  market-downturn survival strategies of, 77–78, 100, 102, 179–80, 270–71, 305, 311–13

  marketing department at, 106, 177–78, 180

  mergers and acquisitions by, 81–82, 85–86, 93, 96, 98–102, 104, 105, 108, 109–10, 111, 174–76, 177, 306, 314, 316

  Miller vs. Smithfield Foods legal battle and, 236, 241, 257

  1990s financial losses of, 163, 167, 169, 174

  official statement issued to author by, 20n, 325–26

  Performance Improvement Program of, 130

  pioneer business model of, 4, 5–6, 69–70, 78, 92, 93, 102, 107, 110, 111, 149, 152–53, 167–68, 169, 173–74, 180, 187, 209, 212n, 223, 225, 226, 240, 241, 262, 287, 311

  poultry slaughterhouses of, 2, 5, 8, 11, 21, 22, 23, 33, 46, 83, 87, 93, 98, 102, 106, 107, 110, 118, 125, 132n, 160–61, 162, 177, 180, 226, 270, 288, 306, 312, 314, 318

  production cutbacks in, 266, 267–68, 270–71, 275, 305, 312, 313

  profits of, 10, 12, 110, 140, 157, 159, 166, 174, 177, 204, 310, 311–13, 314, 315

  in public response to GIPSA rule, 293–94, 295

  raising of prices by, 3, 12, 313

  rebranding campaigns of, 176–78, 179, 180

  rural economies reshaped by, 3, 5, 6, 9–10, 11–13, 46, 67, 106, 111, 145, 180–81, 191, 227, 288, 312, 314–16

  sales forecast meetings at, 266–67

  Seafood Group of, 159, 164, 167

  secrecy and, 2, 4, 8, 9, 116, 117, 121, 157, 224, 256, 294

  smalltown economic dependence on, 1, 2, 8, 21, 315

  specialty chicken products produced by, 30–31, 86–87, 91, 95, 106–7, 163

  Springdale headquarters of, 4, 8, 11, 20, 21, 30, 33, 81, 89, 92, 94, 96, 100, 159, 162, 163, 168, 177, 179, 180, 264, 265–66

  standard dress code at, 9, 63

  stock prices of, 163, 164, 169, 265, 266

  strict contractual terms and conditions set by, 24–25, 30

>   supply chain group of, 266–67, 270, 271, 288

  targeted retaliation against farmers by, 4, 36, 37–38, 43, 269

  tax evasion strategies of, 73–74

  tight control over chicken farmers by, 5, 9, 17n, 23–25, 30, 33, 38, 43–44, 83–84, 85, 103, 114–15, 117, 120, 131, 134, 138–39, 159, 173, 232, 237, 257, 310, 312

  Tollett as CEO of, 162–63

  tournament payment system of, 24, 33, 105–6, 114–17, 119, 120–22, 124–25, 126, 127, 130–32, 139, 145, 192, 256, 257, 284, 293–94, 299

  trucking lines of, 2, 21, 22, 24, 27, 33, 34, 35–36, 87–88, 133, 136, 151, 156–57, 200, 265, 266, 288

  trucking log errors at, 34–35

  2008 financial crisis and, 264–65, 266, 267, 270, 271, 305, 311–13

  vertical integration in, 4–5, 20–22, 25, 109, 115, 156, 157, 172, 174, 191, 202, 226, 231, 262, 270, 271, 275, 288, 316

  Waldron complex of, 1–2, 3, 6–7, 8, 11, 21–22, 26, 30, 32–34, 37, 38, 45, 102–4, 115, 118, 121, 123, 125, 126, 130, 162, 226

  weekly senior leadership meetings at, 87, 89, 92–93, 96, 155, 168

  Tyson Foods, cattle division of, 175, 208–9, 211, 217, 221–23, 224, 227, 266, 267, 269, 284

  cattle buying operations at, 220–21

  Garden City plant of, 212

  grid system of payment in, 222, 225

  growth hormones used by, 209, 224–26, 227

  slaughterhouses in, 180, 224, 270, 288, 311, 314

  tight control over animal producers in, 5, 7, 209, 224, 227, 266, 284

  Tyson Foods, hog division of, 162, 168, 175, 191–94, 196, 199–200, 203, 240, 242, 266, 267, 285

  ambitions for creation of, 152–53, 155

  canceling of contracts by, 193–94

  and decline of independent hog farmers, 191, 194

  experimental flagship farms in, 149–52, 154–55, 192

  financial struggles of, 164, 167–69, 174

  Holdenville complex in, 156–57, 168, 193, 227

  industrialization of, 5, 149, 152–53, 156–58, 167–68, 169, 187, 189, 191, 196, 204

  month-to-month contracts offered by, 193–94, 198

  “nurseries” of, 156, 157, 191, 226–27, 266

  recruitment of contract farmers in, 187–89

  slaughterhouses in, 157, 180, 196, 270, 288, 311, 314

  Smithfield Foods as biggest competitor to, 167–68

  tight control over animal producers in, 5, 156, 157, 159, 184, 192–93, 204, 266

  tournament system of pay in, 192

  vertical integration in, 156, 157, 191, 202

  Tyson’s Pride, 307

  unemployment rates, 156, 195, 267, 276, 297, 311

  Union Parish, La., 230, 231–33

  unions, 83, 169, 170, 244, 250, 262

  U.S. Bank, 141

  U.S. General Accounting Office, 73

  Valmac Poultry, 100, 101–2, 104, 110

  Varney, Christine, 276, 277–78, 287, 294, 295, 303

  as USDA/DOJ public workshops, 279, 280

  vertical integration, 4–5, 6, 55–56, 109, 233, 247, 250, 262, 275, 285, 314

  in beef industry, 5, 172, 209, 285

  de facto, 209

  Iowa’s ban on, 240–41, 242, 243, 253, 255

  Miller in legal battle against, 229, 233, 236, 241–44, 245, 253–54, 255, 269, 280, 287

  pitfalls of, 229–33, 260, 316

  in pork industry, 5, 156, 157, 172, 191, 202, 237, 240, 241, 242, 269, 280, 285, 287

  in poultry industry, 5, 20–22, 25, 55–56, 58, 61, 62, 65, 66, 78, 81, 93, 109, 110, 115, 172, 226, 230, 231, 242, 270, 275, 287, 294

  of Tyson companies, 4–5, 20–22, 25, 56, 58, 61, 62, 65, 66, 78, 93, 109, 115, 156, 157, 172, 174, 191, 202, 226, 231, 262, 270, 271, 275, 288, 316

  Vietnam War, 67, 188

  Vilsack, Tom, 275, 276, 279, 282, 285, 286, 291, 294, 296, 299, 300, 302, 303

  in defense of new GIPSA rule, 289–90, 291

  Morning Joe appearance of, 297–98

  Obama’s selection of, as secretary of agriculture, 12, 268–70

  at USDA/DOJ public workshops, 279, 280–82

  Virginia Poultry Growers Cooperative, 273–74

  Waldron, Ark., 1–2, 3, 10–12, 18, 25, 30, 34, 42, 44, 46, 103, 104, 111, 117, 118, 125, 128, 135, 145, 232, 303, 315, 319

  Buddhist temple in, 137

  Chambers Bank in, 1, 26, 38–39

  demise of chicken farms in, 40, 43, 45, 46, 113, 118, 127, 137

  economic hardship in, 11–12, 25, 45, 146

  Laotian immigrants in, 113, 114, 118–19, 120, 137, 141

  Tyson complex in, 1–2, 3, 6–7, 8, 11, 21–22, 26, 30, 32–34, 37, 38, 45, 102–4, 115, 118, 121, 123, 125, 126, 130, 162, 226

  Wal-Mart, 83, 98, 108, 109, 110, 153, 177, 225, 262, 267, 275, 288, 316

  Walton, Sam, 98

  Ward Feed Yard, 221–22, 223, 224n

  Washington Creamery, 85–86

  Watson, Frankie, 10–11

  Wayne Poultry, 292–93

  Weiser, Philip, 287

  Wendy’s, 31, 91, 92, 98

  West, Robert, 317

  West Bend, Iowa, 186, 187, 189, 198, 199

  Whittemore, Iowa, 184, 186, 187, 189, 198, 199, 201

  feed store in, 189–90, 201

  Wilson and Company, 76

  Winter, Ken, 217–20, 222, 223, 224, 226, 282

  Winter, Ross, 218

  Winter Feed Yard, 217–19, 220, 221

  Winters, Ken, 284

  Wirtz, Chuck, 183–87, 191, 196, 198–99, 202, 204, 205, 282

  feed store of, 189–90, 201

  independent hog farm of, 184–87, 189–90, 194, 195, 199, 201, 203

  Wirtz, Trela, 187

  Wisconsin, 244

  World War II, 54

  Wray, Donald “Buddy,” 68–69, 70, 71, 88, 96, 106, 160, 264, 305, 318

  as sales manager, 86, 87, 92

  in weekly managers’ meetings, 74, 75–76, 77, 92–93

  Xiong, Pa Chay, 142–43

  Xiong, Tria and Mai, 142

  Yandell, Jeremy, 32, 42

  Yandell, Jerry, 17n, 18, 22, 24, 25–29, 31–32, 34, 41–43, 114, 116, 125, 128, 134, 135, 136, 145, 284

  childhood of, 25–26, 41

  diseased birds of, 18–19, 20, 27–29, 32, 38, 39–40, 41, 43, 44

  financial struggles of, 19, 20, 28, 32, 38–39, 40, 41–42, 43, 44–45, 113

  Yandell, Kanita, 17–20, 26, 32, 38, 39–40, 41, 42, 43, 44–45, 114, 135

  Yang, Mai, 142

  Yang, Nouk, 128–29, 132, 133, 134, 135–36, 137, 141

  Yang, Nue, 128–29, 132, 133, 135, 136, 137

  Yang, Tua, 132–35

  Yang family, 132–35, 139, 145

  Zilmax (growth hormone), 7, 224–26, 227

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  Copyright © 2014 by Christopher Leonard

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  First Simon & Schuster hardcover edition February 2014

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  Interior design by Paul Dippolito

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  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

  Leonard, Christopher.

  The meat racket : the secret takeover of America’s food business / Christopher Leonard.—1st ed.

  p. cm.

  Includes b
ibliographical references.

  Meat industry and trade—United States. 2. Tyson (Firm) 3. Investigative reporting. I. Title.

  HD9415.L46 2014

  338.7'636500973—dc23

  2013040588

  ISBN 978-1-4516-4581-1

  ISBN 978-1-4516-4584-2 (ebook)

 

 

 


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