by Win Blevins
I do not recolect that I saw any primitive rock in this place except some granite Boulders all the rock that I saw being secondary Lime rock although all the petrifactions and even pebble stone are verry hard and flinty and in fact all the rock formation in this region is Trasition and secondary Except it may be the state [state] before mentioned
“a discription of the Buffaloe”
I Have thought here it would not be uninteresting to give a discription of the Buffaloe with is habit althoug they have been so frequently described by other—The Buffaloe are of the gregarious Class and the females and all the young under three years old go sometimes in immense herds particularly in the fore part of winter whin they colect in the lower valies and most sheltered parts of the vast plains they inhabit whare they remain all winter if not interrupted The female keeping quite fat untill the spring thaws commence when all at once they become verry poor and lean in the course of a few days
[12] Jany 12th It froze considerably last night
This is probably owing to the pecularities of this climate which is remarkably dry through the summer and fall months the vegitation having come to full maturity by the fore part of July The winter snows having nearly all gone by that time the shower all on a sudden cease to fall and the vegetation immediately dries up the earth becomes dry parched the vegetable matter remaining dry and unbleached untill the next springs thaws the winter commencing without rain the first fall being snow which usually commences about the first of November By this peculiarity of climate the grasses retain nearly all thier substance through the long Rockey Mountain winters But to return again to the Buffaloe in spring the thaws having commenced the animal becoming poor rapidly the hunter thin is looking daily for white Liver so called in the hunter phraze this white liver is allways fown [found] in female that [are?] forward with young which peculiarity is no way accounted for The liver instead of Being red and bloody as usual becomes of a pale light ash colour
[13] 1840 Janury the 13th Cloudy cold & Freezing
and so tinder that it hardly holds together and is a complete lump of fat and is considered the most delicate mess ever found in the animal
In the later part of April and through the month of May the female brings fourth thier young which are all of a red colour and verry helpless for a few days frequently if the herd should be interupted and leave the (the) immediate place the females leave their young an fallow [following] the main herd never returning
Immediately after the grass begins to spring the Buffaloe Begin to scatter from the lower plains and assend the more lofty parts of the mountain region in small heards the males generally solitary and alone find their way into the small mountain glens whare they remain feeding on the young and tender vegitation and when satiated continually rubbing off the old winters coat against trees rocks Banks or any hard body they
[14] 1840 Jany the 14th Cold and Clear
come across making a low grunting nois not much unlike the grunt of a hog the males which come through the winter nothing but skin and bone now Begin to [shed?] remarkably fast and in 5 or 6 weeks after the young herbage begins to spring then are fine fat fleshey and good beef as are the females likewise that do not give suck and from a weatherbeaten light brown they all now become a fine sleek black about the middle of July they again begin to assemble in large heards their running time haveing commenced a short time previous
The apears to be the night the time of sleep and rest for the vegetable kingdom leafless and frozen they are now taking their rest and matureing the subsistance they recieved during the last summer it apears as if the revolution of the earth around the sun was the day & night for the vegetable as is the earth’s revolution on its own axis
[15] 1840 Jany 15th Clear and verry cold the time for activity and rest to animal tribes.
Sleep is a curious and singular phenomonon in the more active animal as likewis in human species Nearly all the animals that prefer night time for collecting thier substance seems to have the peculiar adaption to the taking of a long and torpid sleep in the winter however many animals that would seek subsistance in daylight in their natureal wild state are so timerous and fearefull of man that they are compeled to take the night for what they would prefer the day and therefore seem to prefer what is entirely contrary to their natureal inclination.
“The velocity of light”
The velocity of light seems to be the greatest of all known principals unless electricity should be greater some have thought that Electricity is instantaneous throughout all universal space I can hardly think this to be the fact but if it should
[16] 1840 Jany 16 Clear still more cold
it puts to rest the difficult question of infinity of space For if any known and palpable principle is instantaneous through eternal space then eternal space may be infinite as to bounds and duration and mater may likewise be infinite as to quant[it]y and duration. But on the contrary if no known palpable or impalpable principle or matter can be found but what is limited by size or time then infi[ni]ty means nothing more than such an imense mass of space matter or time as becomes immeasureable and incomprehensable to all means of comparison for instance
We may comprehend the globe we inhabit pretty fully and even the sollar System but a million of such systems becomes incomprehensible allthough even a million such Systems may fall verry short of the quantity of matter in existance throughout the universal Kingdom
[17] 1840 Jany 17th verry cold but appears to moderate alittle
But notwithstanding this immense quantity still Finity becomes a part of infinity and the globe being Finnite or measureable so by comparison of one measurable part or particle of infinite matter occupying a speck of space may we geathur some crude Idea of infinity itself although this Idea may ammount to nothing more than to say all things have thier Bounds and Limits space has its bounds and time has its limmits mater ocupies all space and time wears out all things some seem to think that infinity means something that cannot even have a beginning nor an end and that if it were possible to move with the velocity of light for millions and millions of years and even time without limit that you then have not more than set out But admit all this and say that after you have floun [flown] with the speed of light for as many years as there is particle of sand
[18] Jany 18th Quite moderate
included in the whole Solar System even at that immense time and immense swiftness if you have advanced a quarter of an inch comparatively you at once give imaginary Bounds to space although it may not be posible to measure or comprehend but a verry small quantiy of Space or matter
The Jewish History of the beginning and formation of matter gives definite bounds as it ware in respect to time but not so definite as respects Quantity. It says in plain words that the grate universal and eternal esence of matter was six days in making or rather in collecting and araingeing three of the greate globes of our Solar Sustem (viz) The earth the sun and moon The sun however as the center should come first the earth second and in this we have a Tolerable fair history First chapt of Cenesis [Genesis] 1st verse In the beginning God created the Heaven and the earth
Now here appears to be three distinct Periods
[19] 1840 Jany 19th Clean and pleasant
The first as to time which is—in the beginning T[he] second as to space—The Heaven— the third as to matter—the earth—
Now as to time allthough there could be no time much anterior to the begining nor no Place anterior to space which I take the word—Heaven. Here to mean in fact their could be no measure for time as we now understand the term untill some matter was brought into actual motion and the first revolution of the first globe of matter would be the actual beginning of all things but in the second verse we read—the spirit of God rested upon the waters— which I take to mean that the water then existed in that part of space now oncupied by the Earth
[20] Jany 20th warm and thawing a little
[21] Jany 21st Cold strong wind from the W.
[22] Jany 2
2 Clear and Cold
[23] March 10th Oliver P Nichols Dr to 1 Barrell Pork $15.00
Chapter 6
Clyman Takes the Oregon Trail, 1844
By 1844, 17 years since Jim Clyman left the mountains, sold his furs in St. Louis, and bought land in Illinois, one would assume he’d successfully made the transition from restless mountain man and trapper to farmer and businessman. But, as Buck said, “Colonel Clyman belonged to that class of men ever to be found in advance of civilization, who form the advance guard, the pioneer proper. Consequently the country had no sooner began to settle up, than he was away.”
Once again, Clyman seemed to see the country “settling up” around him, and—probably in spite of his best intentions—he was ready to move on again.
He was fifty-two years old, no spring chicken by the standards of any age, and definitely getting old by the standards of the 1840s. He should have been bouncing grandchildren on his knee, but as far as we know, he didn’t have any children yet—a curious point. Most of the trappers took Indian women as wives, or at least companions while in the mountains; consequently, most had a tipi full of half-breed children somewhere in the mountains. But no record has been found that indicates Clyman ever lived with a woman during his trapping days, or married back in the settlements.
More than one trapper left his Indian offspring behind with her family when he left the mountains, and quite often married a white woman as soon as he returned to the settlements. Some traded the woman off to another trapper; that’s how Joe Meek won his Mountain Lamb. But Clyman doesn’t seem to have been the type to abandon responsibility quite so lightly. Perhaps he confined his search for companionship to brief relationships, and steered clear of the responsibilities of children. Perhaps he was celibate—hard to believe, given what we know of Clyman and the life of the mountain man in general. Since he didn’t see fit to discuss this aspect of his life in the journals, we simply don’t know, and probably never will.
Since Clyman remained in the settlements so long, it’s unusual that he didn’t marry and settle down during that period. Again, the diaries we have don’t mention the subject, so anything we might say is sheer speculation. Clyman’s diaries show him as a man of emotion on several occasions, but also seem to indicate his awareness that he might be writing for publication. On several occasions he omitted happenings from his diary because they disgusted him, and in some instances he lists the names of men who participated in events of which he clearly disapproved. (For example, on June 24, 1845, during his travels in California, he mentions the capture of a “female” Indian by two men in his party, who also took her horse. There is no further mention of the Indian woman, but Clyman carefully notes the names of the men responsible for the capture.)
So perhaps he simply left out of his journal anything he felt would not reflect to his credit with later readers.
With no family to hold him, in the spring of 1844 Clyman packed up and headed down to Wisconsin and beyond on horseback to “see the country and try to find a better climate.” He later told a reporter he was looking for a better climate to rid himself of a cough that had troubled him during the cold winter just past. “Did not improve in health—had a cough in winter. In winter of 1842–43 was very unwell—weather was very cold—perhaps in consequence of the great comet that year, near the sun,” he said.
He might also have been, like most mountain men when they return to the settlements, just restless. Managing a store and presiding at parades were a bit tame after life in the mountains.
Horseback, he rode through Arkansas and back into Missouri where, at Independence, he found emigrants assembling for the passage across the plains. The promise of free land in Oregon, and a paradise for settlers in California—still a Mexican possession—had inspired practically every farmer in sight. From Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Tennessee and points east came a new class of pioneers, packing great quantities of household possessions into covered wagons, buying oxen with which many of them were unfamiliar, and heading west to the promised land.
This had all been going on for several years, but perhaps Clyman had not really seen it so clearly before. At Independence, he may have found old mountain friends who gathered to watch and laugh at the innocents who thought they could cross the plains carrying great grandmother’s grand piano, or who were hired as guides. Mountain men made the best guides available for emigrants crossing the plains, because a clear knowledge of the lay of the land was necessary to their profession. In addition to knowing how to cross the country, they knew good streams, and spots where they could hide from Indians—knowledge essential to saving their hair. Trappers had mental maps of the country that map makers didn’t catch up with for fifty years.
Perhaps Clyman was simply caught up in the excitement and wanted to cross the plains again, see the rest of the western country for himself. Perhaps he remembered how alive—in spite of Blackfoot arrows, lurking grizzlies and setting traps in freezing water—he’d felt in the mountains. Or perhaps there’s no need to search for an explanation that sounds logical to modern ears. Clyman had been pioneering since he was a child in Virginia; he wasn’t ready to sit on a barrel behind a store counter and get fat. Always keenly interested in what was happening in his world—even on the plains his journals mention presidential campaigns—he wanted to keep right on pioneering.
Clyman couldn’t go back to trapping, even if he’d wanted to; after 1840, the demand for beaver fur almost ceased to exist, and hundreds of trappers had depopulated the beaver streams Clyman helped find with Ashley’s men. Times were slow for former trappers, many of whom simply couldn’t adapt to “civilized” life and stayed in the mountains with their Indian families, disappearing from the history books. The American Fur brigade had rendezvoused for the last time on Green River in 1840.
About 1500 persons started west in 1844, the largest number in a single year. Five groups started, and the three largest of these went through to Oregon—companies led by General Cornelius Gilliam, John Thorp, and Colonel Nathaniel Ford. Clyman joined Ford’s group of about 500 persons at Independence, and seems to have acted as treasurer for a part of the outfit, according to his journal.
Notebook One:
The Oregon Trail,
Independence to
Little Blue River
May 14 to June 30, 1844
1844 of May the 14th Left Independence & proceded on to West port Roads extremely bad owing to the Leate greate rains 15 at Westport morning dull slight rains
about 10 left West port continues to rain all day passed the head of Blue River [Indian Creek] came to camp at Elm Brook [Mill Creek] passed the methodist mission [at Shawnee, Kansas] and Several Shawnee Indian Formes in the course of the day made 18 miles [to Cedar Creek]
16 It rained all night last night in one continued and rapid Shower This morning the whole prairie covered in water Shoe mouth deep no wood to be had except what we had hauled in waggons Started throug the rain about 8 miles over a roling prairie covered nearly knee deep in mud and water camped about ½ mile from timber [N. E. of Gardner] packed some up to camp on our mules it continued to rain all night Slightly
16 [17] got up our teams and put to the road again made 9 miles to Black Jack creek [Captain Creek] amuddy desolate looking place about non to day left the Sant a fee trace [Santa Fe Trace] these are two of the longest roads that are perhaps in the world the one to Sant Afee and the other to Oregon doubled teams nearly all the way Both teams Swamped down and had to unload our team breakeing an axeltree
17[18] about 9 oclock it begain to rain again it [rained] all day so much that we could not finish our axeltr[ee] continued to rain all night and our beds ware overflown in water nearly mid side deep 19 Sunday a dismal rainy thick morning, all Brot to Stand about 11AM after a Tremendeous Shower it Slacked up for the rest of the day got a new axel tree in and reloaded our waggon Saw & picked a considerabble fine mess of ripe Strawberies
20 Thick and foggy the women & children are co
ming out again haveing been confined to the waggons for 2 days past went to a camp of 4 waggons in the fore noon returned and crossed the western-Branch of Black Jack country high roling Prairie interspersed with numerous small groves of Timber Five wagons left encamped a ½ mile Behind us Two men returned this morning after some cattle that had strayed away
afternoon doubled teams and moved 4 miles camped on a high ridge in a small grove of Brack oak 2 fine looking yong Ladies in camp
22[21] Laid at camp all day to wait for the falling of the waters and drying of the roads 2 teams that ware behind came up this evening
22 Moved ahead 8 miles over roling hilly Prairie 6 miles crossed dirty muddy Brook [Cole Creek north of Sibley] camped on the waukarusha Quite a fine little rivulet with a fine dry bank on the East Side Several Shawnee Indians pased our camp yestarday and to day a fine clear day with brisk south wind dug a kind of a road down the bank &c.
23 a fine clear night and a pleasant morning the small river Waukarusha (to) yet to ford with teams walked out through camp observed all sizes and ages Several fine intelegent young Ladies engaged one of them to make me a pair of Pantaloons picked some strawberries a handsome country fine land but timber shrubby 5 waggons came up to day 2 men from the mountains stoped an hour at our camp from some of the trading Stations on the arkansas a Lot of pack mules Likewise passed us on their way to Fort Larrimie
We have been passing through lands sofar belonging to the Shawnee nation or Tribe of Indians nearly all of which Tribe have Quit hunting and gone into a half civilized manner of living cultivating small Lots of ground in corn Beans Potatoes and grains and vegetables their country is almost intierly striped of all kinds of game but is fine and Productive in grains and Stock both horses and cattle Timber is scarce but finely watered in part the trail passes through The company of pack mules and ponies that passed to day are a part of Mr. Bissenettes [Bissonette] and will [follow] 7 or 800 miles of our rout
