Journal of a Mountain Man

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Journal of a Mountain Man Page 33

by Win Blevins


  All the inhabitants of this immediate country left their farms to hunt and wash gold. All of the summer crop and considerable of the wheat was destroyed by the stock. Oregon has sent us some flour, and more than half of her male population, all of the foreigners and a portion of the Natives have arrived from the Sandwich Islands, and we may expect a large emigration from the States next season. Tell all of the lovers of gold and sunshine that this is the place to suit them. But very little else is to be seen or had here. We had a shower of rain last week for the first time since May, and the grass is beginning is [to] shoot a little. I shall return to the States again in about one year from this time. Give my respects to all enquiring friends.

  JAMES CLAYMAN [Clyman].

  P. S. Enclosed you will find a small specimen of gold. It is found in all shapes and sizes up to twenty pounds weight.

  The letter, though written late in 1848, was postmarked San Francisco March 16, 1849; it took a while to find someone going east to transport mail in those days.

  In 1960, when Camp talked to them, Clyman’s descendants still had some egg-sized gold nuggets he found apparently at this time, but the party didn’t remain near the gold fields long. He and the McCombs went on to Napa.

  The McCombs finally settled on land now within the city. Clyman lived with them, assisting in the work of laying out the place, and courting Hannah. Their marriage was the first one in the town, celebrated August 22,1849. The groom was 57, the bride 30 years younger. It is reported that the couple bought all the table crockery to be had in Napa and San Francisco; also that they spent the winter with the bride’s family and helped put in the next year’s crops.

  It would be fascinating to have a diary from this period. Clyman had apparently lived and worked alone most of his life. Once he had established his brothers on farms in Illinois, he went on to scout more land, and pursue his own interests, and never mentions his family in his journals. Suddenly he not only guided the McCombs across the plains, but remained with them—farming! His distaste for farming was so intense, even when he was fifteen years old, that he seemed willing to do almost anything—cut wood, harvest, help a surveyor—to avoid it. Either he’d gone through a major change in viewpoint, or his young wife had changed his mind for him.

  Once he had married Hannah, he seems truly to have become as “settled down” as any civilized citizen might have wished, and he wasn’t alone among the original beaver men in settling on the coast. George Yount, the first white man in the region, had been an old hunter and trapper, as had Peg-Leg Smith, Charlie Hopper, Joel and Joseph R. Walker, Moses Carson, Uncle Billy Gordon, John Wolfskill and Elisha Stephens. Further south, at the Pueblo of Los Angeles, were others, including Nathaniel Pryor and Richard Laughlin, Job Dye and George Nidever. In Oregon were Robert “Doc” Newell, George W. “Squire” Ebberts, Joe Meek and Osborne Russell, who died in the California gold mines.

  On March 5, 1850, Clyman bought from William Edgington part of what became his farm at Napa, land which had previously belonged to Salvador Vallejo. Soon afterward the family moved into Sonoma County, between Forestsville and Sebastopol, then back again to Napa. On February 10,1855, Clyman completed the purchase of his ranch by buying part of a tract that belonged to his mother-in-law.

  The civilized life soon brought Clyman five children, but it wasn’t to last. Before long, four of his children were dead of scarlet fever. Only one daughter survived.

  Clyman was seventy-four by that time, but hardly ready for retirement. He kept busy running a fruit and dairy ranch, planting and pruning trees, plowing and harvesting—all the work he’d hated as a youth. He even developed the “Clyman plum,” a variety once popular. Mrs. Clyman and their one remaining daughter, Lydia Alcinda, milked the cows; Hannah Clyman always maintained that a man would ruin a good milk cow.

  They adopted three foster-daughters—Alice Broadhurst, who was Mrs. Clyman’s niece, Geneva Gillin, and Edna Wallingford.

  During his eightieth year, Clyman wrote his final diary, showing him still living an active life. It contains a short verse in his typical style.

  Chapter 18

  Final Days—Diary of 1871

  And now the mists arise

  With slow and graceful motion

  And shews like pillow in the skies

  Or island in the ocean

  Jan. 28, 1871 to Dec. 10, 1871

  [Jan] 28, [1871] A Rainy morning Took my Sheep to pasture….

  February the 1 My birthday being the first day of 80 Eightyethe year….

  2 Frosty mornings commenced pruning in the Orchard….

  17 Frost clear and warm afternoon Pruning in the orchard….

  [March] 3 Pleasant and warm good growing weather Planted potates Peas & onions beets….

  8 commenced Breaking fallows yestarday….

  10 Finished pruning….

  15 finished my fence around the garden

  [April]9 …Mr Montgomory [R. T. Montgomery, editor of the Napa Reporter] called on me for information on the early character of California gave him my Diary of my first trip across the plains….

  11 Trimed and marked my lambs….

  12 Finished planting corn & potatoes….

  14 …Rode out on the mountain….

  19 …Commenced sharing sheep

  26 …Went to the Odd fellows Picknick Mr Sargent delivered the adress which was done in oratorical style….

  [May] 3…finished the cultivation of the home orchard….

  19 …hawled a load of rock for the foundation of Barn….

  29 …Comenced framing Barn….

  31 …finished the frame of Barn….

  [June] 3…went to the picknick at the Boggs ranch heard Mr Ford the country School Supt make an excellent speech….

  12 …filled all my barn with hay three tuns left….

  15 …Brought my sheep down to the home place

  16 Clear sold all our Black Tartaria[n cherries]

  17 …gathered Black Beries….

  24 …took a severe Cold Laid abed half the day….

  25 …still feel seak of a cold….

  26 …Hauled one load of wood….

  1 st July…Warm some wheet being harvested Wind South…Finished hailing wood due Mr Truebody $3.00….

  4 the 95 Jubille of our countrys Independance as nation Went to Napa heard the declaration of Indepenance read….

  11 …gathering early apples….

  12 …Lent Mrs McCombs $20.00/

  [Aug.] 16…the camp Meeting still in Session

  [Dec] 10…sowed our Barley last week….

  Though Clyman took little part in public affairs as he grew older, he didn’t spend all his time farming. Early settlers remembered him as a bent figure taking his rifle to the mountains hunting deer or bear. He walked with a limp from old wounds, and an accident had cost him the sight in one eye.

  He often sat in the sun and wrote out upon a slate the last part of his book of reminiscences, resisting to the end whatever temptation he might have had to include the kind of tall tales and adventures beloved of mountain men like Joe Meek. He sent his story to Lyman C. Draper, who published the first part in the Napa Reporter in 1871. Later, his daughter Lydia took up the task of copying what Clyman had written on his slate, and sending it on to Draper.

  In the last ten years of his life Clyman wrote poetry in the style of the age, dealing with philosophical matters and topics of the time, not with his past as a mountain man. The poems are interesting as an illustration of Clyman’s level of education, and the refinement of his mind, despite the rough times his body had survived. Mountain men are sometimes pictured as crude ruffians, but perhaps Clyman demonstrates how varied they were. Some of his verses dwelled on the pleasures of home, as the following example shows.

  OUR HOME

  The winds were in their chamber sleeping

  The light from Orient portals peeping

  The stars the lesser ones are dimed or gone

  The larger ones more brigtly sh
own

  And silver beams of earley daylight

  Was breaking through the gloom of night

  The little birds in twittering note

  Upon the ambient air did float

  Again more fervent light behold

  The mountain tops in glittering gold

  The grass the grain in meadow seen

  A gorgeous sight all clothed in green

  The dewdrips make a beautious show

  In bright translucent globes they glow

  All nature now seems to combine

  To over flow with bread and wine

  And fruit of evrey name and nature

  Promise rich returns in the future

  The peach the cherry and the pair

  In fragrant blooming now appear

  And give sweet scent to passing air

  The bees then come a perfect swarm

  At noon or when the sun shines warm

  And sip the necter from the bloom

  To fill thier sweetend honey comb

  And now we hear the breakfast call

  To young to old to friend and all

  Now at the table take your seat

  A cup of coffee strong and sweet

  but first you hear a fervent blessing

  To all omnicient power adressing

  The mighty source of light

  To guide our words and actions right

  Through out the day now fast advancing

  The glorious sun on nature glancing

  Now while hot roles surround your plate

  Dont envy either wealth or state

  The hour of eight the clock has told

  A grumbling first then more Bold

  Along the Iron plated way

  That runs direct from Napa bay

  And if you notice as they pass

  A belching forth of steam and gass

  They come with raped whirling wheels

  The earth blow both quakes and reals

  The elements above are riven

  By smoke and gas are upward drivn

  A heave a blch of scalding gass

  Then let the metal monster pass

  The hills along the east are seen

  Some dark with brush some clothed in green

  The sun still shining bold and bright

  And not a cloud obscures the sight

  The Lilac now in purple bloon

  A handsome sight a rich perfume

  The Canary in his iron cage

  Still chants his love and sings his rage

  No answering note no warbling fair

  Can touch his melancholy ear,

  O give me freedom or a mate

  To save me from a lonsome fate.

  The sun now strikes meriden line

  The laboring men come in to dine

  Assembled round the family board

  A female blessing now is heard

  And then the master carves and sends

  The vians round from side to end

  Around the yard a playfull noise

  This is the prattle of the boys

  As up and down the walks they run

  With bursting froliich noisy fun

  Thier work is play thier play is work

  And all is noise from day to day

  And infancy is likewise here

  A female babe demans our care

  Who just begins to crow and smile

  And know her mothers voice the while

  She fills a space not very small

  But she is dear to nurse and all

  Our Cottage too is draped anew

  And shows in front a handsome vew

  As white as bride trips from her room

  Steps out to meet her galant groom

  The plow for summer crop now turning

  The moistned soil in early morning

  And soon comes on the planting time

  For summer crops of evry kind

  As to west the sun inclines

  In fervant brightness still it shines

  All nature seems to catch the strea[m]

  And kiss and drink the glancing beam

  And then a slightly southern breese

  Comes chanting through the orchard trees

  And bends and turns the growing grain

  Like tides upon the flowing main

  Still lower west the light doth glow

  And lengthning shawos [shadows]eastward

  Now all the sky in brightest gold

  Most beautiful the light unfold

  The eastern hills to catch the light

  reflected from etherial hight

  You see the moons bright cresent form

  And silver tips her either horn

  The stars now all are brightly shining

  And with the moon thier light combining

  The galaxy or milky way

  Across the zenith makes display

  With stars thick studed shining bright

  A coronet on brow of night

  Is this the hour when lovers meet

  Salute each to each in accents sweet

  And walk the flowery avanewes

  and speak and tell the daily new[s]

  Perhaps to taake a walk for life

  United in one as man and wife

  And call the spangled stars above

  As witnesses of mutual love

  This natal day now is past

  We hope it will not be the last

  But even in the midst of such homey reflections, his wit remained sharp and his political sense acute, as in this verse:

  The sparrows in convention join

  And hold a noisy chirping chime

  Like noisy politicians scold

  And contradict in axcents bold.

  On some topics, Clyman waxed particularly eloquent; the thought of food, for example, made him wax poetic:

  Ritch milk rich cream the farmer boast

  With butter cakes and swiming toast

  And ham and eggs likwise is found

  A breackfast rich the table crowns

  When at the breackfast take your seat

  A cup of coffee is always sweet

  And if short biscake grace your plate

  You envy not the rich or great

  To speak of all you see and find

  Cant change the farm for silver mine.

  Perhaps it was the good food that changed his mind about farming. He must have sat writing this verse on his slate, thinking of the starving times in the mountains, where ham, eggs, and cream would have been merely dreams. Clyman’s journal of June 27, 1846 mentions tasting coffee for the first time in a year, and that was when he was with the emigrants. In the mountains, coffee was mostly a memory.

  Clyman had achieved some fame for his exploits, and a number of visitors came to the farm to visit him. They included some small relatives, Mr. and Mrs. Tom Thumb, the midgets.

  His daughter, now married to the Rev. Beverly Lamar Tallman, gradually took over management of the farm, and with seven children and elderly parents to look after she simply didn’t have time to copy her father’s life story at his dictation. She explained rather querulously to Draper. “I can not take time to give fathers life in detail for he has had a long and eventful one. I have a family of seven to look after; three small children doing my own work. We live on a farm and I find my time all occupied. I send a short sketch which is all I promised.” If she’d had fewer children, we might have a tale to eclipse that of any other mountain man

  On December 27, 1881, Clyman died; he was eighty-nine years old. Burial was at the Tulocay Cemetery in Napa. He had lived through—and helped create—one of the most exciting periods in our nation’s history. He was one of the last of the mountain men, and he had completely outlived the times in which he was born and raised. Trails that he followed on foot, starving or gnawing on the remains of a pack horse, knee-deep in snow, held highways and steel rails at the time of his death. Cities had grown up where he and his fur trapping comrades told stories and
ate fat buffalo cow. The beaver and buffalo around which so much of his existence was built had become curiosities, preserved in museums and zoos, almost gone from the cold mountain streams and broad prairies. James Clyman lived a life none of us will ever know, but he gave us some of it—bare and without elaboration, but irreducibly authentic—in his journals. Perhaps he was thinking of his own epitaph when he wrote this poem, possibly his last.

 

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