New potato, pea, and fava bean salad with mustard dressing
Small boiling potatoes with a waxy flesh are best for this salad. If you need to save time, cook the fava beans a little longer and leave them in their skins.
SERVES 4–6
1¾ pounds evenly sized boiling potatoes, washed
¾ cup green peas, thawed if frozen
1 cup shelled fava beans
few sprigs of fresh dillweed for garnish
Mustard dressing:
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar
½ tablespoon Dijon mustard
½ tablespoon wholegrain mustard
handful of fresh tarragon and dillweed, chopped
pinch of sugar (optional)
Cook the potatoes in a pan of boiling salted water until tender when pierced with a skewer, 10–15 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together all the ingredients for the dressing (or put them into a tightly covered jar and shake well).
Bring another pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the peas and fava beans separately until tender, about 3 minutes each. Drain, refresh in a bowl of ice water, and drain again. Squeeze the fava beans out of their pale skins.
When cooked, drain the potatoes in a colander and let cool slightly. If you wish, peel off the skins using a small knife (wear rubber gloves to protect your hands). Put the potatoes into a large bowl and, while still warm, toss with the dressing to coat. Stir in the peas and fava beans. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with a few dill sprigs and serve.
Grilled eggplant with balsamic, feta, and mint
Although you can pan-grill the eggplant on a ridged cast-iron grill pan, I like to grill the slices over hot coals, where they take on a lovely smoky quality. However, if you prefer to pan-grill, add a little sweet paprika to the olive oil and brush this over the eggplant slices to give them a smoky flavor.
SERVES 4–5
2 medium eggplants
¼ cup olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 fat garlic clove, minced
1 heaped cup cherry tomatoes, halved
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
good-quality aged balsamic vinegar for drizzling
small handful of fresh mint, leaves chopped
Prepare the barbecue. Trim and thinly slice the eggplants. Mix the olive oil with the minced garlic and some seasoning in a small bowl. Brush the oil on both sides of the eggplant slices, then grill them until tender, about 2 minutes on each side.
Overlap the grilled eggplant slices on a platter and scatter the cherry tomatoes and feta cheese over them. Drizzle on a little balsamic vinegar and finish off with a generous grinding of black pepper and a sprinkling of chopped mint.
Mixed mushroom salad
The earthy flavor of wild mushrooms is unbeatable. When they are not in season, use a mixture of shiitake, oyster, portabello, and/or cremini mushrooms.
SERVES 4
2 shallots, thinly sliced
1½ tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
2 tablespoons butter
1¼ pounds mixed mushrooms (see above), thinly sliced
squeeze of lemon juice
1–2 tablespoons walnut oil
large handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves roughly chopped
4 ounces small arugula or mixed salad leaves
Place a wide frying pan over medium heat. Sauté the shallots in the olive oil until soft, 4–6 minutes. Add the butter to melt. As it begins to foam, add the mushrooms and some salt and pepper. Toss over high heat until the mushrooms are lightly browned and any liquid released has evaporated, 2–3 minutes.
Tip the sautéed mushrooms and shallots into a bowl. Squeeze a little lemon juice over them and drizzle on the walnut oil. Add the chopped parsley and season to taste.
Just before serving, toss the arugula or salad leaves with a little lemon juice and olive oil, then place neat piles on each serving plate. Divide the mushrooms among the plates and serve.
Braised red cabbage with apple
This gorgeous braised cabbage, which features again and again on our restaurant menus, is a fantastic accompaniment to game or other rich red meat. It keeps well in the refrigerator for about a week.
SERVES 4
1 small head of red cabbage, about 1¼ pounds
1 large baking or other tart apple
2/3 cup butter
¾ cup packed light brown sugar
2/3 cup cider vinegar or clear malt vinegar
2 cinnamon sticks
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Quarter, core, and finely shred the cabbage. Peel, core, and thickly slice the apple. Set aside.
Put the butter, sugar, and vinegar in a stovetop-to-oven casserole and stir over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. Add the cinnamon, cloves, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Tip in the cabbage and apple and toss well to coat. Put a wet, crumpled piece of parchment paper on top and transfer the pan to the oven.
Braise until tender, about 1½ hours. Every 30 minutes during the cooking, carefully lift the parchment paper and give the mixture a stir, dampening the paper again each time to prevent it from burning.
Remove the paper and continue braising, stirring after 10 minutes, until the cabbage is tender and the liquid in the pan has reduced to a syrupy glaze, 15–20 minutes longer.
Pickled onions
There’s nothing quite like homemade pickled onions! Be sure to use canning jars with two-piece screwband lids, and for longer storage, process in a simmering hot-water bath.
MAKES 1 POUND
1½ cups coarse pickling salt
1 pound pearl or boiling onions
3 cups malt vinegar
1 cup cider vinegar
2 teaspoons each of coriander seeds, mustard seeds, whole allspice, black peppercorns, and mace
2 bay leaves
1-ounce piece of fresh ginger, bruised
1 tablespoon sugar
First, make a brine. Put the salt and 2 cups water in a saucepan and stir over low heat until fully dissolved. Pour into a large bowl and let cool completely.
Meanwhile, peel the onions. (It will be easier to remove the skins if you quickly blanch the onions in boiling water for 30 seconds, then refresh in cold water and drain well.) Add the peeled onions to the brine. Place a plate on top to keep them submerged in the liquid. Let soak in a cool part of the kitchen, or the refrigerator, for 24 hours.
Put the vinegars, dried spices, bay leaves, and ginger into a nonreactive pot (such as stainless steel or enameled) with the sugar. Boil for 20–25 minutes, then strain the vinegar through a fine sieve and discard the flavorings. Let cool completely.
Rinse the onions and drain well. Divide them among sterilized jars, pour in the pickling liquid to cover, and seal the jars tightly. Leave the onions to pickle in a cool, dark place for at least 2 weeks before eating. Refrigerate after opening.
Piccalilli
This mustardy pickled vegetable relish is the ultimate accompaniment to a raised game pie (see Chapter 5 for recipe) or cold meat terrine. If you can’t find fresh pearl onions, you can use small boiling onions or shallots.
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
3 tablespoons pickling salt
1 pound pearl onions, peeled
1 small head of cauliflower, about 1 pound, cut into small florets
¾ cup sugar
2½ cups cider vinegar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons English mustard powder
2 tablespoons olive oil
1½ tablespoons ground ginger
1½ tablespoons ground turmeric
Dissolve the salt in 4 cups of warm water in a large bowl. Add the onions and cauliflower and place a plate on top to keep the vegetables submerged in the brine. Let soak in a cool part of the kitchen, or in the refrigerator, overnight. Next day, drain the vegetables and rinse under cold running water. Drain well.
Dissolve the sugar in t
he vinegar in a nonreactive pot over low heat, then boil until reduced by half, 15–20 minutes. Add 1¼ cups water, then bring back to a boil. Mix the cornstarch and mustard powder together, then stir in several tablespoons of the reduced vinegar to make a smooth paste. Whisk this back into the rest of the vinegar.
Heat the oil in a large, nonreactive saucepan and gently fry the ginger and turmeric for 1–2 minutes. Lower the heat, then gradually add the reduced vinegar mixture, stirring as you pour. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook until it starts to thicken and coats the back of your spoon, 2–3 minutes.
Add the vegetables to the pan, bring to a boil, and simmer until the cauliflower has softened and the onions are crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Add a little salt and pepper to taste. Spoon into sterilized jars and seal. Store in a dark, cool place for 1 month before eating. The flavor improves the longer you keep the piccalilli (for longer storage, process the jars of piccalilli in a simmering hot-water bath). Refrigerate after opening.
desserts and ices
Nostalgia is a powerful emotion when it comes to food. Or perhaps I should say that food is a powerful evoker of nostalgia. My work takes me around the world to countries with fascinating and delicious cuisines, but as soon as I reach home, I develop a craving for old-fashioned British desserts.
That traditional desserts are enjoying a revival is clear from the success of my pub menus. Apple pies, rice puddings, and lemon meringue pies always sell out. In many cases, we’ve updated classic recipes, adding a little stem ginger to fruit crumbles and using luscious and creamy lemon tarts as the base for lemon meringue pies. Some recipes, however, I prefer unmodified: my mother’s Bakewell tart, for example.
Pear and frangipane tart
Autumn fruit salad with thyme and ginger
Strawberry and champagne granita
Caramelized apple pie
Summer berry trifle
Peach, raspberry, and ginger crumble
Baked gooseberries with honey and almonds
Fig ice cream
Cinnamon rice pudding with apricot compote
Custard tart
Lemon meringue tart
Bakewell tart
Poached rhubarb with ginger ice cream
Mixed berry tartlets with vanilla and peach cream
Blackberry sorbet with shortbread fingers
Pear and frangipane tart
This beautiful and delicious tart is—by a piece of good fortune—quick and easy to make. What could be better? It can be served warm or at room temperature, and is ideal for a lavish picnic.
SERVES 4–6
Tart:
10 ounces puff pastry (see introductory note on Chapter 5), thawed if frozen
1 egg yolk, beaten with 2 teaspoons water, for egg wash
2 large, or 3 medium, ripe pears
Sugar syrup:
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup water
1 cinnamon stick
2 star anise
juice of 1 lemon
Frangipane:
6 tablespoons butter, softened to room temperature
2/3 cup confectioners’ sugar, plus extra for dusting
1 large egg, lightly beaten
¾ cup ground almonds
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons Amaretto
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 1/8-inch thickness and cut out a neat 8-inch-diameter circle. Transfer to a baking sheet, then lightly score a ¾-inch border all around. Brush the border with the egg wash to glaze, then let the pastry rest in the refrigerator while you prepare the filling.
Place all the ingredients for the sugar syrup in a small saucepan and stir over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat and simmer until thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Let cool.
Meanwhile, beat together the butter and sugar for the frangipane. Slowly add the egg, mixing until fully incorporated. Add the almonds and flour and fold through. Finally, mix in the Amaretto. Let the mixture stand for 5 minutes.
Peel the pears, then cut each in half lengthwise. Remove the cores with a small spoon or a melon baller and discard. Cut each pear lengthwise into thin slices and place in a large bowl. Pour the cooled sugar syrup over the pears. Let macerate for a few minutes while you preheat the oven to 375°F. (It is best not to use a convection oven for this recipe.)
Spread a layer of frangipane evenly over the pastry round, leaving the glazed border clear. Drain the pears and dab dry with paper towels, then arrange on top in a concentric circle. Sift a little confectioners’ sugar over the pears. Bake until the pears are tender and the filling is golden brown and set, 35–45 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven and let cool slightly. If you like, brush the pears with the sugar syrup left in the bowl.
Autumn fruit salad with thyme and ginger
You could also serve this as a light and healthy dessert or as part of a buffet brunch. Put out a large bowl of yogurt to serve alongside, if you wish.
SERVES 4
3–4 ripe plums
1 red apple
1 green apple
2 ripe pears
Thyme and ginger syrup:
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
1 star anise
½ teaspoon coriander seeds
few sprigs of fresh thyme
1¼-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
½ cup sugar
½ cup water
Begin by making the thyme and ginger syrup: Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and put in a pan with the bean and the remaining syrup ingredients. Stir over low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat to a simmer and cook until the syrup has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, cut the plums in half and remove the pits. Quarter the apples and pears and remove the cores. Place all the fruit in a large bowl. While the syrup is still piping hot, pour it over the fruit and toss well to coat. Let cool, then macerate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before serving.
Strawberry and champagne granita
A sophisticated and refreshing dessert for hot days. To make it child-friendly, use cranberry juice in place of champagne and top with a little cold milk to make a milky strawberry slush. Stick a wide straw into each glass to complete. The granita will also serve well as a refreshing palate-cleanser between courses.
SERVES 4–6
2 pounds ripe strawberries, plus a handful for garnish
2/3 cup sugar
3 tablespoons water
1/3 cup champagne, plus optional extra for serving
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Hull and roughly chop the strawberries, then put them into a large heatproof bowl. Stir in the sugar and water. Set the bowl over a pan of gently simmering water and stir frequently to help dissolve the sugar. Carefully cover the bowl with a plate (or the lid of a saucepan) and gently steam until the strawberries are very soft and have released their juices, 30–40 minutes.
Remove the bowl from the heat and strain the strawberry juice through a fine sieve into a clean bowl. Let cool, then mix in the champagne and lemon juice. Pour the mixture into a wide, shallow container and freeze until partially frozen, 1–2 hours.
Stir the ice crystals around the sides of the container into the liquid center. Return to the freezer and freeze for 1–2 hours longer, then give the mixture another stir as before.
When ready to serve, hull a few strawberries and cut into quarters. Drop them into individual serving glasses. Scrape the granita with a strong spoon and pile into the glasses over the strawberries. If you wish, pour in a splash of champagne and serve immediately.
Caramelized apple pie
I love the flavor of caramelized apples in a tarte Tatin, and this is a way of bringing that flavor into a classic apple pie. Because the apples are precooked, they won’t shrink during baking and create air pockets inside the pie. I like to serve the pie while it’s still warm, either with cream or vanilla ice cream.
/> SERVES 8
½ cup sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
4 large, tart cooking apples, about 3 pounds in total
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
1 pound, or 1 recipe, sweet tart pastry (see Chapter 9)
1 extra-large egg yolk, beaten with 2 teaspoons water, for egg wash
Start by preparing the caramelized apple filling. Mix the sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg together. Peel, quarter, and core the apples, then cut into thick chunks. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with the spiced sugar to coat. Fry the apples in two batches: Melt half the butter in a wide, nonstick frying pan, add half the apple chunks, and fry over high heat until golden and caramelized around the edges, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Repeat with the remaining apples and butter. Let cool completely.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Roll out about half of the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 1/8-inch thickness. Overturn an 8-inch pie pan on top of the pastry and cut out a rough circle slightly bigger than the pan. Line the pan with the pastry, lightly pressing down to remove any air pockets, then trim off the excess pastry. Roll out the remaining pastry into another circle, again slightly larger than the pan, for the top crust.
Spoon the cooled apples evenly into the pie shell. Brush the rim of the bottom crust with a little water, then drape the top crust over the pie. Press down lightly to seal and trim off the excess pastry. Crimp the edges and brush the top with the egg wash to glaze. Use the tip of a knife to cut a small cross in the center so that steam can escape during cooking. Sprinkle with a little sugar.
Cooking for Friends Page 11
