Vajra: A thunderbolt or mythical weapon – both a Hindu and Buddhist term.
Yoni: Sanskrit for vagina/vulva.
LIST OF TRIBES IN ARUNACHAL PRADESH
How many tribes there are in Arunachal Pradesh depends on who you talk to, as different people categorize tribes in different ways. For example, some will just class the Adi as a single tribe, as I have here, while others will divide them into three or four sub-groups. Please note that this list does not include refugee groups, such as the Chakma and Hajongs.
Adi
Aka
Apatani
Bangni
Galo
Idu Mishmi
Digaru Mishmi
Miju Mishmi
Khampa
Khampti
Khowa
Lisu
Memba
Meyor
Mishing (also known as Miri)
Monpa
Nocte
Nyishi
Sherdukpen
Singpho
Tagin
Tangsa
Wancho
ENDNOTES
CHAPTER 1: THE FORGOTTEN LAND
‘As I write this in May 2016 the Indian government is drafting a new law’:
https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/worldviews/wp/2016/05/06/cartographers-beware-shy;india-warns-of-15-million-fine-for-maps-it-doesn’t-like/
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/wires/afp/article-3576724/India-seeks-impose-15-mn-fine-false-maps.html
http://www.thehindu.com/news/national/all-you-need-to-know-about-the-draft-geospatial-information-regulation-bill/article8576523.ece
‘The US backed Naga rebels’:
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2003/jan/14/india.lukeharding
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2010/dec/11/india-nagaland-jonathan-glancey
CHAPTER 2: ALL I NEED IS A HERO
‘a plastic bag containing a man’s severed head’:
http://www.hindustantimes.com/india/human-head-found-at-famous-kamakhya-temple/story-GS1WmXkQ9XgjkoHVjqZODJ.html
‘So far an estimated 30,000 people have died’:
http://www.upi.com/India-offers-truce-to-separatist-rebels/27811096913206
http://www.csmonitor.com/World/Asia-South-Central/2009/1209/p06s04-wosc.html
CHAPTER 3: TEA AND UNICORNS
‘nearly ninety people have been beheaded’:
http://www.hindustantimes.com/india/assam-7-arrested-for-branding-63-yr-old-woman-witch-beheading-her/story-It61ec8KBkxg9adVDlXN0M.html
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/aug/08/five-women-killed-india-jharkhand-villagers-suspecting-witchcraft
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-india-33605244
‘a five-lakh rupee (around £5,000) fine for calling or identifying a witch’:
http://www.thehindu.com/news/national/other-states/assam-assembly-passes-bill-to-end-witchhunting/article7538350.ece
CHAPTER 4: WHERE’S JOHN?
‘Two days later the Indian Army and Assam Police launched a joint combat operation’:
http://www.satp.org/satporgtp/countries/india/states/assam/data_sheets/majorincidents.htm (See reference to 16 February)
http://www.india.com/news/india/four-ulfa-nscn-k-militants-shot-dead-954289/
CHAPTER 6: OPIUM COUNTRY
‘More illegal opium is grown in Arunachal Pradesh than any other part of India’:
http://indianexpress.com/article/india/india-others/arunachal-pradesh-emerges-as-largest-opium-producer-in-country-raises-security-concerns/
CHAPTER 8: TRIBAL GATHERING
‘At the same time, he . . . cancelled the licences of Greenpeace and 9,000 other foreign-funded NGOs’:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-india-32747649
http://www.firstpost.com/india/from-greenpeace-to-ford-foundation-modi-govts-controversial-crackdown-on-ngos-2812196.html
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/india/11845586/India-bans-foreign-funds-for-Greenpeace-in-latest-crackdown-on-charities-with-Western-ties.html
http://www.huffingtonpost.in/2015/04/29/ngo-license-modi-governme_n_7172150.html
http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/india-narendra-modi-government-cancels-greenpeace-licence-receive-foreign-funds-1518469
‘The Dibang Dam, due to be India’s largest, was approved on the back of an environmental impact assessment that was labelled farcical by many observers’:
http://www.business-standard.com/article/economy-policy/rejected-by-experts-dibang-hydro-project-gets-green-nod-115062400037_1.html
https://www.theguardian.com/environment/india-untamed/2015/may/30/indian-government-to-review-hydroelectric-dams-two-river-basins
http://www.indiawaterportal.org/articles/no-impact-assessment-study-done-dibang-hydropower-project
http://www.theguardian.com/environment/india-untamed/2014/oct/22/indias-largest-dam-given-clearance-but-still-faces-flood-of-opposition
CHAPTER 13: THE HEART OF THE LOTUS
‘In response to renewed Chinese claims on Arunachal Pradesh, in October 2014 Modi announced a plan’:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-india-29639950
CHAPTER 15: GOODBYE TO PEMAKO
‘“Cheating!” exclaimed Dorje. “Everyone in India cheats.’:
https://www.telegraphindia.com/990823/the_east.htm#head7
CHAPTER 17: A RISKY BUSINESS
‘the Indian government blocked any further recovery efforts by the US military. When this unofficial moratorium was lifted in September 2015, the same happened again’:
This was told to the author via email by a relative of a US pilot killed in the crash and in no way represents the author’s personal interpretation of facts. See also:
https://thewire.in/30303/no-closure-yet-as-us-india-continue-to-resist-returning-the-remains-of-wwii-dead-in-arunachal/
https://usindiamonitor.com/2017/02/15/families-of-world-war-ii-arunachal-mia-soldiers-still-waiting-for-justice/
http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/defence/missing-aircraft-from-ww-ii-shrugging-off-chinese-concerns-government-allows-us-search-missions-in-arunachal/articleshow/49067505.cms
CHAPTER 18: THE SELA PASS
‘I’ve been told that voters were paid between 300 and 1,000 rupees . . . each to rally for a particular party’: This was told to the author and in no way represents the author’s personal interpretation of facts.
‘Sixteen people were killed by a single landslide’:
http://indianexpress.comarticle/india/india-news-india/arunachal-pradesh-tawang-landslide-heavy-rains-2765246/
‘Just two weeks after we met, Lobsang was arrested again, this time charged with some dubious allegations about insulting the abbot of Tawang Monastery. When several hundred local people gathered outside the police station to protest peacefully against his arrest, the police opened fire on the crowd.’:
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/Tawang-in-Arunachal-Pradesh-erupts-in-protest-over-Lamas-arrest/articleshow/52074726.cms
https://www.internationalrivers.org/blogs/433/police-kill-two-anti-dam-protesters-in-north-india
SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY
Allen, Charles, The Search for Shangri-La: A Journey into Tibetan History, Little, Brown and Company, 1999
Bailey, F. M., No Passport to Tibet, The Travel Book Club, 1957
Baker, Ian, The Heart of the World: A Journey to the Last Secret Place, Penguin, 2004
Baruah, Tapan Kumar, The Idu Mishmis, Directorate of Research, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, 1988
Butler, John, Travels and Adventures in the Province of Assam, During a Residence of Fourteen Years, Smith, Elder & Co, 1854
Cox, Kenneth (ed), Frank Kingdon-Ward’s Riddle of the Tsangpo Gorges: Retracing the Epic Journey of 19
24–5 in South-East Tibet, Garden Art Press, 2001
David-Néel, Alexandra, Magic and Mystery in Tibet, University Books, 1965
Elwin, Verrier, The Aboriginals, Oxford University Press, 1943
Elwin, Verrier, A Philosophy for NEFA, Directorate of Research, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, 1957
Elwin, Verrier, India’s North East Frontier in the 19th Century, Oxford University Press, 1959
Ghosh, Amitav, The Glass Palace, Random House, 2000
Glancey, Jonathan, Nagaland: A Journey to India’s Forgotten Frontier, Faber and Faber, 2011
Graham Bower, Ursula, The Hidden Land, John Murray, 1953
Hamilton, Angus, In Abor Jungles: Being an account of the Abor Expedition, the Mishmi Mission and the Miri Mission, E. Nash, 1912
Hamilton, James, Lost Horizon, Macmillan, 1933
Johnson, Amy L., Letters Lost then Found, Splattered Ink Press, 2015
Karunakar Gupta, The Hidden History of the Sino-Indian Frontier, Minerva Associates (Publications), 1974
Kingdon-Ward, Frank, Assam Adventure, Jonathan Cape, 1941
Kingdon-Ward, Frank, Himalayan Enchantment, Serindia, 1990
Koerner, Brendan, Now the Hell Will Start: One soldier’s flight from the greatest manhunt of World War II, Penguin, 2008
Lovell, Julia, The Opium War, Picador, 2011
Roerich, Nicholas, Shambhala, Nicholas Roerich Museum, 1978
Sarkar, Niranjan, Tawang Monastery, Department of Cultural Affairs, Government of Arunachal Pradesh, 1981
Shand, Mark, Queen of the Elephants, Jonathan Cape, 1995
Shand, Mark, River Dog: A Journey Down the Brahmaputra, Little, Brown, 2002
Singh Rawat, Indra, Indian Explorers of the 19th Century, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, Government of India, New Delhi, 1973
Williams, J. H., Elephant Bill, Penguin, 1950
Woodcock, Martin, Collins Handguide to the Birds of the Indian Sub-Continent, William Collins Sons & Co Ltd, 1980
ACADEMIC PAPERS
Chaudhuri, Sarit, ‘Plight of the Igus: Notes on Shamanism Among the Idu Mishmis of Arunachal Pradesh’, European Bulletin of Himalayan Research 32, 2008
Datta, Aparajita, ‘Fading Fauna, Forgotten People’, Down to Earth magazine, 2005
Kour, Kawal Deep, ‘Opium, Empire and Assam’, International Institute for Asian Studies, 2012
Rahman, Mirza Zulfiqur, ‘Territory, Tribes, Turbines: Local Community Perceptions and Responses to Infrastructure Development along the Sino-Indian Border in Arunachal Pradesh’, Institute of Chinese Studies, 2014
Sharma, Jayeeta, ‘“Lazy” Natives, Coolie Labour and the Assam Tea Industry’, Modern Asian Studies 43, 2008
INDEX
A note about the index: The pages referenced in this index refer to the page numbers in the print edition. Clicking on a page number will take you to the ebook location that corresponds to the beginning of that page in the print edition. For a comprehensive list of locations of any word or phrase, use your reading system’s search function.
abela, 136
In Abor Jungles, 187
Ahom ruins, 41
Aksai Chin, 9
Alinye, 162, 166
Allied Labour Corps, 79
Amazon, 123, 125
amrahla, 164
‘ancient ones’, 198
Angriem Valley, 165
ani, 321, 322
animal sacrifice, 5, 90, 92, 113, 117, 124, 125, 130, 132, 161, 204, 262, 265, 267, 268, 272, 273, 341
Anini, 115–16, 117, 118, 133, 137–8, 143, 146, 157, 159–60, 161, 168, 182
Anjaw District, 103
antelope, 156
Apatani Valley, 256, 274, 301
Apatani Youth Association, 264
apong, 188
Arizona, 280
arms-dealing, 37
Arunachal Pradesh, xi, 5–65 passim, 96–7, 110–19, 339 (see also individual places within)
Chinese claims on, 216
dam dum flies, 128
electricity arrives in, 135
final images, 336
isolated nature of, 6
landscape, 100, 264
population growth, 155
roads, 296–7
tourism, 307
urban population, 155
during WWII, 280–1
Asian elephants, 34, 80–2
lassoing, 73–4
Assam, xi, 61
early history of, 5–16 passim, 31, 52
education provision, 237
electricity arrives in, 135
gin, 45
medical provision, 202
‘must-sees’, 41
national anthem, 40
New Year, 340
populous nature of, 30, 37, 56, 61, 133, 134
restaurants, 27
tea trade, 7, 32, 42, 53, 284
towns and villages, see by individual name
traditional dress, 54, 338
traffic, 110, 297–8
Upper, see Upper Assam
Assam Railways & Trading Company, 52
Assam State Transport Corporation, 47
Assam Valley, 134
Assam Witch Hunting (Prohibition, Prevention and Protection) Act (2015), 46
Atlanta, 59
Atunli, 121–2, 135, 136
Australia, 240
ayahuasca, 165
Azadpur Mandi (market), 11
Balipara, 298
Bangkok, 316
Bangladesh, 10, 18, 20, 51, 75, 76, 92
baptism, 265, 272
Baptists, 264, 270
BBC, 11, 17, 339, 340
bears, 123, 131, 156, 171, 230, 244, 285, 300
Bengal, xi, 11, 20, 95, 141, 295
New Year, 340
tigers, see tigers
Berlin, 68
betel nuts, 18
beyuls, 175, 176–7, 181, 210, 230
Bhalukpong, 298, 299
bhang, 252
Bhutan, 5, 8, 153, 214, 296, 319, 322, 327
Bihar, xi, 52, 253
Bihu (Assam New Year), 340
bijou gompa, 204
birds, see individual types of bird
Blue Peter, 270, 271
Bodoland, 31
Bombay, 132
Bomdila, 300–5, 317, 333, 335
Bon, 175, 219, 226, 228
Border Roads Organisation, 101, 252, 313
Borneo, 78
Bos grunniens, 304
Brahmaputra River, 5, 7, 8, 12, 15, 17, 20, 24, 36, 39, 41, 49, 53, 100, 111, 134, 139, 142, 178, 186, 187, 259, 337 (see also Tsangpo River)
Bramdung Chung Ani Gompa, 322
Bristol, 126
Britain, 6–7, 8, 153, 240, 259–60, 291, 334
brokpa, 319, 322, 327, 332
Buddhism, 175–8, 194, 197, 198, 215–18 passim, 220–2, 232, 299, 302, 304, 308
‘burials’, 319–20
Nyingpa school of, 219
buffalo, 26
bulbuls, 97
Burma, 5, 6, 8, 11, 14, 30, 37, 51, 54, 56, 57, 59, 61, 64, 71, 76, 83, 84, 88, 92, 97, 143, 261, 277, 278, 281, 291
Burma Road, 280
Calcutta, 7, 44, 340
The Calcutta Statesman, 187
Cambodia, 87, 313
Canada, 240
cannabis, 252
Catholicism, 73
CBI (theatre), 57, 61–2
Central Asia, 179, 303, 335
Chabua, 53, 281
chang, 205, 206, 212, 219, 224, 225, 232, 234–6, 244–5, 248
Changlang, 54, 56, 60
Channel 4, 11
Chhuluk, 140
Chiang Mai, 67
chickens, 26, 31, 90, 118, 149, 152, 161, 233, 256, 267, 269, 272, 273, 285, 294
Chime Yangsang Ne, 176
China, 7–10 passim, 14, 37, 140, 153, 157, 162, 201–2, 212, 216, 226, 259, 277, 280, 309–10, 316, 318, 335
exports to, 95
tea trade, 42
in WWII, 53, 56
China-Burma-India (CBI) (theatre), see CBI (theatre)
Chinese medicine, 37–8, 44
Chittagong Hill Tracts, 75, 92
christening ceremonies, 28
Christianity, 72, 113, 161, 179, 219, 265, 270–3, 339
CIA, 10
Circuit House (hotel), 99, 104–5, 143–4
‘city of tea’, 50
Claridge’s, 170
‘Class 1 junglies’, 52
clouded leopard, see leopards
cobras, 58
Cold War, 10
Collins Handguide to the Birds of the Indian Subcontinent, 97
common leopards, 83
communion, 219
‘coolies’, 52, 58
‘curtain mountain’, 210
dakinis, 194, 220, 221, 249
dam dum flies, 128, 159, 204, 227–8, 246, 289
Dambuk, 184
Damroh, 190
dao, 61, 78, 81, 92, 113, 118, 121, 125, 128, 131, 146, 163, 186, 262, 266, 283, 289
Daporijo, 250, 252, 256
Darjeeling, 141, 143
Dark Ages, 179
Dehra Dun, 139
Delhi, 11, 12, 13, 24, 53, 56, 71, 113, 128, 193, 203, 237, 339
The Delightful True Stories of the Supreme Land of Pemako (Lelung Shepe Dorje), 177
Dembuen, 162
Denmark, 85
Deopani River, 112, 118
Devakotta, Mount, 194, 204, 210, 214, 215, 220, 223, 226, 228, 229
Dharamsala, 206, 237, 245
Dibang Dam, 134
Dibang River, 15, 118
Dibang Valley, 88, 111, 116, 133, 138, 147, 155, 161, 164, 183, 232
Dibrugarh, 49–51, 53, 74, 76
‘city of tea’, 50
Great Earthquake (1950), 49–50
Digboi, 53
Dirang Dzong, 301, 303, 335
Discovery Channel, 11
Diwali, 11
Donyi-Polo, 190, 203, 273
dorje, 192
Dorje Phagmo, 176, 197
Dri River, 137
Dri Valley, 161
drilbu, 192, 326
drug addiction, 74
drugs, 37, 86–102 passim, 222, 252
non-hallucinogenic, 125, 165–6
ducks, 26, 231
dysentery, 58, 166, 248
East India Company, 6
East Pakistan, 10
East Siang, 184
Edinburgh, 46
Ela, 129
elephant boys, 73–4
elephant safaris, 35–7, 39
England, see Britain
engoko, 113, 122, 151, 153, 170, 185
Etalin, 119, 133, 135
Everest, Mount, 116, 170, 172, 178
Land of the Dawn-lit Mountains Page 30
