by natalie Wise
Condition: It is important to use a commercial leather cleaning product here, one that is labeled for upholstery leather (not car or shoe/bag leather) as the natural pH level of leather is hard to match when creating a product yourself. Most homemade recipes use a food-based oil and/or vinegar, both of which should be avoided. Use a soft rag and work the product into the leather with the grain.
Stain Removal: Gentle, organic baby wipes can help remove some stains. If there is a grease stain, sprinkle cornstarch or baking soda on the spot immediately to soak up the grease. For ink stains, spray the area with hairspray or dab with a bit of rubbing alcohol. Plain white toothpaste can also work by rubbing it gently into darker spots, then blotting it clean with a damp cloth.
CLEANING A MICROFIBER COUCH OR CHAIR
Microfiber couches are incredibly soft and snuggly and give the appearance of suede without the expense. Microfiber is much easier to clean than suede is. A little spritz of this, a little rub with that, and voila, it looks like it just rolled off the factory line! Be sure to test this in an inconspicuous spot, but it should work for all colors. Use a white or light-colored sponge and brush for light-colored upholstery so the color from dying the bristles doesn’t transfer to your couch. Use a toothbrush to clean seams and pockets.
• 8 ounces rubbing alcohol
• 4–6 drops tea tree essential oil
Mix in an 8-ounce spray bottle. Shake well before use.
To Use: Spray liberally onto small sections of the couch at a time. Ensure the fabric is wet, but not soaked. Then use your sponge to scrub the fabric in an up and down motion with the grain of the fabric. Rinse your sponge in water frequently to prevent transferring dirt from one area to another. Wring it out well before continuing (to prevent adding water to the couch’s fibers). It’s important to fully work the rubbing alcohol in each section and not just let it sit, or you’ll be left with water spots where it soaked in too much and dried too quickly. You can fix those by repeating this process. Repeat this process over the entire couch or chair, using a clean toothbrush to scrub tighter spots. Let air dry. Then use a soft bristled brush (such as a dish brush) to fluff and restore the fibers, again, going with the grain, over the entire surface.
ORANGE + CLOVE CARPET REFRESH POWDER
Vacuuming is one of the quickest ways to make the house look clean if you only have a few minutes to tidy before company. Add this powder to refresh the carpet even further. Baking soda deodorizes, while food-grade diatomaceous earth is a natural insecticide that repels bugs, particularly fleas, cockroaches, and bed bugs. Essential oils of clove and orange not only smell delicious, they also repel bugs and add a refreshing scent to any room. There are two ways to use this powder: for a quick refresh in the moment, or for a deeper clean overnight. Don’t forget this works for low-pile rugs, too. A container with a shake-top works well. You can punch holes in the lid of a mason jar for an easy DIY solution or use a glass sugar shaker designed for coffee. I prefer to use cornstarch instead of baking soda as the cornstarch is less abrasive to carpet fibers. The key is to use this lightly—no need to oversaturate your carpet, which can cause long-term damage. A little here and there works wonders. Put your vacuum on the highest power setting it has to be sure you vacuum up all of the powder.
• ½ cup cornstarch
• ½ cup food-grade diatomaceous earth
• 20 drops clove essential oil
• 20 drops orange essential oil
Mix the cornstarch and food-grade diatomaceous earth together well. Add essential oils and mix well.
Quick Refresh: Sprinkle powder lightly over trouble areas. Vacuum well.
Deeper Clean: Sprinkle liberally over carpet surface. Use a stiff-bristled brush to work the powder into the carpet. Let sit at least overnight; 24 hours is preferable. Vacuum well.
BEAT IT, DUST: CLEANING RUGS
Rugs are a bit of a different animal than carpets. Carpets can take a beating, but rugs are more sensitive. Expensive imported rugs required extra care, whereas many inexpensive rugs will shred at the slightest wrong move.
Low-pile rugs: Vacuuming is usually a good place to start with low pile rugs. Use a brush attachment on the hose of your vacuum to vacuum delicate rugs; use an angle brush to get into seams if there is a binding on the edge of your rug. Be careful with fringe, and try not to suck it up, which just causes a tangled mess. You can use carpet refresh powder (page 102) on some rugs that are more like carpets, but test it on a small part of the rug before using it on delicate rugs. The old-fashioned idea of beating a rug out of doors actually works, and yes, you can still purchase rattan rug beaters. Place a rug over a sturdy surface, such as a porch railing, and beat the underside of the rug with the rug beater to loosen and shake up dust. Vacuum afterward if possible.
Cleaning low-pile rugs is fairly simple, too. Most rugs can take a light vinegar washing. Mix half white vinegar and half warm water. Soak and wring out a rag, and give the rug a gentle scrubbing using the rag or a light brush. Do not get the rug too wet. Use a hair dryer to dry the rug.
Set-in stains might be removed with a gentle iron and a wet rag. Place a wet rag, saturated in the vinegar and water mixture, over the stain, and use a steam iron set to steam and the heat setting for the material of your rug, and gently iron over the rag.
High-pile rugs: A pet brush works well for getting tangles out of shag or high-pile carpets. Small high-pile rugs can be thrown in the bathtub with a tiny amount of castile soap and given a good swish around, as well as a brush. Dry thoroughly and as quickly as possible, then brush again to revive the fluff factor. You can use an upholstery attachment on your vacuum to vacuum high-pile rugs without risking damage, but test it first on a small corner.
BEHIND THE BOOKSHELVES: CLEANING BOOKSHELVES AND ARMOIRES
Bookshelves get dusty; we all know that. They can use a good shine every once in a while, too, especially because hands are constantly grabbing things off them, leaving greasy fingerprints. You’ll want to take everything off the bookshelf and move it away from the wall if you can to give it a thorough clean. You might not have realized they were dirty, but when they’re clean and back in place, you’ll notice the difference.
First: Vacuum well behind the bookshelf; chances are, dust bunnies have made their home here. You’ll also probably find things that have fallen behind the bookshelf, so remove those.
Then: Mix together half white vinegar and half warm water, and spray this on the back of the bookshelf. Use a soft rag to wipe clean. Don’t put the bookshelf back against the wall until it is completely dry. Use this same spray on the shelves, sides, and bottoms. Don’t forget to get on a stepladder and clean the top, too. If your bookshelves are laminate, the vinegar in this recipe should restore the shine. If it doesn’t, spray a cloth lightly with rubbing alcohol and give the piece a final wipe down. If your shelves or armoire are hardwood, use the wood polishing recipe (page 91) to really make them shine.
CLOSE THE CURTAIN ON DIRTY CURTAINS
Most people don’t think to care for their curtains . . . we tend to forget that they gather dust and stains, somehow, during daily life, and look refreshed with a small amount of work.
A steamer is the best way to clean and refresh curtains of almost any material, including lace, silk, and acetate. Some curtains are machine washable; if so, throw them in the wash first, and steam them once they are hung back on the rods to get out wrinkles. However, many lined curtains are not machine washable. Some curtains, such as lace valances, can be hand-washed with a few drops of dish soap in a sink or bathtub. Make sure you get all traces of soap out, then lay them flat on towels or on the line to dry thoroughly before hanging them up again.
Wool: Steam clean
Textured silk (crepe, raw, etc.): Steam clean
Satin silk: Hand-wash, steam clean
Acetate: Steam clean
Lace: Hand-wash, steam clean
Cotton: Machine wash, steam clean
Polyester: Hand-wash and/or stea
m clean, depending on texture and weight
Freshly steamed curtains look so professional you’ll want to do it regularly for a crisp finish. I like to add a few drops of essential oil to the water reservoir of my handheld steamer. I tend to use lavender essential oil because it prevents moths, which love to hide in curtains. Steam from top to bottom, from the underside of the curtain. Steaming on top of the curtain will help a little, but when you pull the curtain taut and steam from the underside you’ll get a much better result.
TAMING THE FINGERPRINTS ON TELEVISION SCREENS AND ELECTRONICS
Televisions, computers, and other electronics collect dust, there’s just no way around it. But these delicate screens can be permanently damaged by some cleaning chemicals, particularly ammonia, present in many commercial glass cleaners. Dusting your electronics regularly is the best way to keep them from needing a good clean.
For both methods, be sure to turn off the TV, unplug it, and let it cool thoroughly before attempting to clean. You don’t need to shock yourself in pursuit of a smudge-free screen!
LCD screens: LCD screens can usually be cleaned with simple distilled or boiled and THOROUGHLY COOLED water. Gently spray or rub the water onto the screen using left-to-right, top to bottom motions. Don’t press too hard. If water alone doesn’t cut through the smudges and marks, add in a bit of 90% isopropyl alcohol, 2 tablespoons per 8 ounces of water.
Plasma screens: Plasma screens can be a bit more tricky, so using a gentle DRY cloth to wipe it clean is your first option. If that doesn’t work, a very lightly moistened soft towel with distilled water is your next option. Otherwise, you might need to purchase a commercial cleaning kit to avoid damaging this delicate screen.
Glass screens: Glass screens can be cleaned using the same method as LCD screens above, and a bit more elbow grease if necessary.
Of course, any plastic areas surrounding the computer can be cleaned with the alcohol and water solution as well.
BEHIND THE FURNITURE: BASEBOARD CLEANING
Baseboards have a nasty habit of developing a thick black coating on the rims. They’re an easily forgotten space of the house; that is, until you need to get on your hands and knees to plug something in and realize how dirty they really are.
First, remove furniture and rugs from the walls of the room, and use your angle attachment on your vacuum to get into the crevice between the carpet and the baseboard.
Then, gently mix 2 cups warm water and 2 tablespoons castile soap in a small bucket or bowl. Dip the corner of a rag into the mixture and start cleaning around the baseboards. Use a toothbrush dipped in the mixture, too, if necessary, to get into those crevices. Work in small sections.
Lastly, take a fresh, dry cloth and wipe the baseboards dry.
Extra Tip: Use this same process on ceiling crown molding. Be extra careful and ask for assistance if you’re up on a ladder.
DON’T CIRCULATE DUST: CLEANING CEILING FANS
Looking up when you’re relaxing on the couch and noticing an unsightly rim of dust and grime on your fan blades sure ruins the moment. But getting on a ladder and wobbling around to clean your ceiling fan is probably low on your list of priorities. Until you think that every time you turn that fan on, some of that dust is swirling into the air you’re breathing. Here’s a simple way to clean the fan without collapsing in a dust cloud.
Keep an old standard size pillowcase on hand for this task. In an 8-ounce spray bottle, mix half white vinegar and half distilled or boiled and cooled water. Add 10 drops geranium essential oil. Shake well. Spray the interior of the pillowcase until it is moist all around. You can also spray the fan blades. Now, carefully get on a stepladder and place the pillowcase over the blade. Grasp the fan blade through the pillowcase with both hands and pull it tightly toward you, scraping the edges of the fan and gathering the dust inside the pillowcase. Move to the next blade, and, adjusting to a clean part of the pillowcase, repeat.
Follow up by using the mixture on a soft cloth to get any lingering spots and to clean the base of the fan.
LET THERE BE (CLEAN) LIGHT: CLEANING LAMPS, SHADES, AND LIGHTBULBS
Bet you never thought to clean your lightbulbs, huh? But now that we have long-lasting LED lightbulbs, they last for years and therefore may collect an alarming amount of dust. Lamps also love to collect dead bugs, which is gross if the fixture is hanging and you can see the bugs when you look up at the light. Time for a good dusting and bath.
Let lamps and light fixtures cool down completely, unplug if possible, and remove the lightbulbs from the fixtures before attempting cleaning. Gently clean lightbulbs with a soft cloth dipped in warm water. Do not apply too much pressure, and do not clean the base where it attaches to the light fixture.
Glass light fixtures can be removed and soaked in a warm water and castile soap bath. Let dry thoroughly before attaching to the fixture again.
Lampshades are a bit trickier, since they cannot be washed. Dust and vacuum them to get off loose dirt, using an upholstery brush and angle tip on your vacuum. If dust is the only problem, you can also use a lint roller to get any lingering dust and fuzz.
Then, assess the construction and materials of your lampshade. If they are paper, or glued together rather than sewn, avoid getting any moisture at the seams that will cause the glue to fail. For fabric shades that are sewn, you can use a light mixture of 1 cup warm water mixed with 2 tablespoons white vinegar and 1 or 2 drops of lavender essential oil. Dampen a cloth and gently clean the lampshade. Let dry thoroughly before reattaching.
For the base of the lamp, cleaning methods will depend on what it is made from. Wood bases can use the wood polishing recipe (page 91), glass bases the glass cleaner (page 77), and so forth. Plastic and other nonspecific bases can be cleaned using the same mixture you used on the lampshade above.
Bedrooms are another place where we spend a lot of time, but not a lot of time cleaning. Make the bed, vacuum, put away the laundry . . . that’s probably about it. But with all of the soft goods in a bedroom, it sure could use a good cleaning, from pillows and blankets to mattresses and that pesky problem area . . . the air! A refreshing bedroom is an organic home oasis, worth cultivating and keeping clean and organized.
The Process: Purge, Clean, Organize
The bedroom should be relaxing and a space for dreaming and enjoying time away from the hustle and bustle of life, but it can wind up cluttered and messy just like any other room. Let’s start with the nightstand, that friendly little table that’s supposed to hold only the essentials for a good night’s sleep, but ends up holding books, medicines, movies, gift cards, candles, pens, headphones, lip balm, Kleenex, empty drink bottles, jewelry, and so much more. A messy nightstand, floor, and dresser top do not instill calm thoughts and deep dreams. Let’s purge the unnecessary items to create a calm, comfortable, cozy room.
As I mentioned, drawers, floors, and flat surfaces in bedrooms are the main trouble spots. You might also have a chair that gets dumped on or an over-the-door organizer that gets overwhelmed and messy. Go through everything and decide if it really needs to live in the bedroom. Does it belong in the closet? The laundry room? The trash? Corral all the loose change you find into one jar and place that jar in a conspicuous place near where pants pockets are emptied. Recycle receipts that pile up on dressers. Put medicines back in the medicine cabinet, makeup and hair products back in the bathroom, and dirty laundry in the hamper. Pick up, and you’re halfway there.
Vacuuming is the easiest way to make this room look clean, so give it a good refresh and open the windows to let fresh air in if the room feels stale. Wash and steam the curtains if they need it, clean the blinds, and wipe down fan blades and lampshades. Clean mirrors and picture frames, run a rag around the baseboards, and basically freshen up every surface.
Organizing the bedroom is fairly simple, since there are few moving pieces. The main furniture stays the same, and the nightstand and dresser are functional storage pieces that will simply need to be used well to hold
everything you need. I believe in creating a lot of walking space in the bedroom, as much as you can, so keep extra furniture to a minimum or place it against walls or the foot of the bed. In drawers, bamboo drawer organizers are wonderful for keeping short sleeve T-shirts and long-sleeve T-shirts separate and his-andhers socks organized, and their smooth edges won’t snag anything delicate.
On top of the dresser, use functional but attractive containers to keep small items under control and keep the aesthetic modern and clean-lined. Pottery pieces are good for this, as are glass and woven pieces. Layer items to create a unique look—for example, you might place a small tin on top of a box, and a candle on top of the tin. Place small dishes in front of picture frames to keep jewelry tidy, and arrange daily-use items such as perfume and moisturizer on a mirrored tray. These small touches add a great deal of atmosphere to a room that can often be relegated to utilitarian. Hang art on the walls, keep a few cozy blankets on the end of the bed and in a basket beside the dresser. Make it personal, since this is a personal space.
CLEANING BED FRAMES
Bed frames are the unsung heroes of most bedrooms. These metal bars or basic wooden platforms allow us to sleep comfortably night after night. They also collect dust in their crevices and, if you eat in your bedroom, crumbs that may attract critters. Keeping the bed frame clean is a simple task once you get the mattress out of the way, but you may need an extra set of hands to accomplish moving the mattress and box spring if there is one, as these are unwieldy for one person.
Once you have the mattress and box spring out of the way, lift up the bed frame and vacuum under the entire area. If you can’t lift it up, use the handheld vacuum attachment and clean the entire area. This section of carpet rarely sees the light of day, so it’s also a good idea to give it a good carpet refresh (page 102).
