The South East Prospect of the City of Philadelphia, an oil painting by Peter Cooper from about 1720, hanging at the Library Company of Philadelphia. This work, the oldest surviving canvas of any American city, has a most interesting history. Plus, at almost eight feet long and twenty inches high, it’s one of the most unusual of all paintings of Philadelphia. At either end of the canvas are the arms of the city and the province of Pennsylvania. Beneath is a descriptive panel identifying various buildings. Despite being rather unsophisticated, the painting is practically without peer as a pictorial document of an American city. Cooper was very likely a Philadelphia sign painter. The Library Company of Philadelphia.
Published by The History Press
Charleston, SC 29403
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Copyright © 2011 by Harry Kyriakodis
All rights reserved
Front cover, top: The Delaware River (i.e., Benjamin Franklin) Bridge under construction in 1924, looking west at the city of Philadelphia. Delaware River Bridge Joint Commission. Front cover, bottom: Ice skating on the frozen Delaware in the winter of 1856, near the first Philadelphia Naval Yard next to the community of Southwark. Library of Congress.
First published 2011
Second printing 2011
Third printing 2012
e-book edition 2013
Manufactured in the United States
ISBN 978.1.62584.188.9
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Kyriakodis, Harry G.
Philadelphia’s lost waterfront / Harry Kyriakodis.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
print edition ISBN 978-1-60949-371-4
1. Waterfronts--Pennsylvania--Philadelphia--History. 2. Historic buildings--Pennsylvania--Philadelphia. 3. Historic sites--Pennsylvania--Philadelphia. 4. Philadelphia (Pa.)--History. 5. Delaware River Region (N.Y.-Del. and N.J.)--History. 6. Philadelphia (Pa.)--Buildings, structures, etc. 7. Philadelphia (Pa.)--Biography. 8. Philadelphia (Pa.)--Social conditions. I. Title.
F158.63.K97 2011
974.8’11--dc23
2011018584
Notice: The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. It is offered without guarantee on the part of the author or The History Press. The author and The History Press disclaim all liability in connection with the use of this book.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever without prior written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
CONTENTS
Preface
Introduction
1. William Penn’s Solution to a Touchy Dilemma in 1680s Philadelphia
2. At Spring Garden Street: British Barracks and Party Central on the Waterfront
3. Noble to Callowhill: A Romantic Stream Flowing Between a Bloody Lane and a Gallow’s Hill
4. Callowhill to Vine: Penn’s Surviving Steps and Ships and Ferries on the Frozen Delaware
5. The Riverfront Caves of Primitive Philadelphia
6. Front Street: Pennsylvania’s First Street and a Kingly Highway
7. Vine to Race: A Calamitous Blaze and a Colossal Bridge
8. Race to Arch: Fighting Fires and Rats Near America’s Oldest Urban Street
9. Arch to Market: Inventors and Millionaires by the Delaware (Enter Stephen Girard)
10. At Market (High) Street: Ben Franklin, King Tamanend and Christ Church in Old City Philadelphia
11. Market to Chestnut: Of Ancient Taverns and Franklin’s Friends on the Central Riverfront
12. Chestnut to Walnut: A Welcoming Mansion (and Park) for William Penn Near the Birth of the Marines
13. Walnut to Dock: Pirate Treasure, a Timeless Treaty, Troubled Taverns and a Floating Church
14. Dock to South: Head House Square and a Progressive Sail Loft in Society Hill
15. South of South Street: Southwark Hosts a Swedish Church and a Party for the Ages
16. At Washington Avenue: Fortress to Shipyard to Navy Yard to Rail Yard to Immigration Station to Waterside Park
17. Water (King) Street: A Filthy Street Triggers the Yellow Fever Epidemic of 1793
18. Delaware Avenue (Columbus Boulevard): Lost Resort Islands and Girard’s Riverside Legacy
19. Penn’s Landing: Festivities and Tragedies on the Water
20. The Delaware Expressway (I-95): Voilà—A Superhighway in the Midst
Epilogue
Further Reading
About the Author
PREFACE
Midway on Front Street, between Philadelphia’s Old City and Northern Liberties neighborhoods, is a set of ancient stone steps leading down to Water Street. This narrow stairwell, on the 300 block of North Front, is a passageway to the lower street on the line of what used to be an alley called Wood Street.
The Wood Street Steps are also a passageway back in time, for they are the last of ten or so public stairways on the alley streets from Callowhill to South Streets, built about three centuries ago at the direction of William Penn, founder and proprietor of the province of Pennsylvania and founder of the city of Philadelphia. Each one of the “Penn stairs” once lay exactly on the Delaware River’s western embankment, providing access to the water from the high ground of the city above. Other than Gloria Dei Church in South Philadelphia, this staircase is the only relic of the colonial era along the Delaware in Penn’s City of Brotherly Love.
This account began as an investigation into these stairwells. It then broadened into a chronicle of Philadelphia’s riverfront between Vine and South Streets—the city’s original northern and southern boundaries. It then expanded north to Spring Garden Street and south to Washington Avenue, basically to round out the story. While the book focuses on the two-block strip of the waterfront from Front Street to the river, there are occasional forays inland to Second Street.
This study includes an exploration of the caves that Quaker settlers occupied beside the Delaware and the stories behind Front Street, Water Street and Delaware Avenue. Old City, Society Hill and Queen Village are discussed, as are the famous personalities associated with Philadelphia’s riverside and the notable creeks that once crossed this zone. Shipbuilding, railroading and military activities on this stretch of the Delaware are considered, as are immigration and employment matters. Plus, extant and long-forgotten taverns, restaurants, hotels, parks, piers and places of worship are covered.
After a look at the early development of Philadelphia’s original port district, the narrative proceeds block by block from Spring Garden Street to Washington Avenue. Why north to south? It just seemed better to begin with the area that still has the most remnants of the past so that some tangible evidence of Philadelphia’s lost waterfront could be seen. Seeing the little that remains emphasizes how much is gone. For, ultimately, this book is a lament on all that has vanished due to the heartless routing of Interstate 95 through this two-mile-long corridor decades ago.
Contemporary happenings along the historic central waterfront of Philadelphia are highlighted in the final chapters as the narrative returns to Columbus Boulevard and Penn’s Landing. It will become clear that recent conflicts concerning the use and enjoyment of the riverfront are as fresh today as they were over three hundred years ago.
I’d like to thank my family members for their support in this project, as well as my workplace colleagues and members of the Association of Philadelphia Tour Guides; also Ron Hoess, Al Johnson, Robert Kettell, Kenneth Milano, Doug Mooney, James Quilligan, Andy Sacksteder, Richard Stange, Rich Wagner and Rebecca Yamin for the informative chats and message
s we exchanged. Adam Levine, a consultant for the Philadelphia Water Department, provided photos and encouragement. The staffs at the Philadelphia City Archives and the Library Company of Philadelphia were most helpful, as was The History Press team in guiding me to assemble this book.
INTRODUCTION
Great cities have great rivers, and the city of Philadelphia has two of the finest and most historic rivers in the United States: the Delaware and the Schuylkill. Both have played critical roles in the American Revolution of the eighteenth century, the Industrial and Transportation Revolutions of the nineteenth century, and even the Environmental Revolution of the twentieth century.
In the early 1680s, William Penn (1644–1718) specifically established his City of Brotherly Love at the narrowest point between these waterways to take advantage of the benefits afforded by them. In a letter to London, he gushed:
[O]f all the many places I have seen in the world, I remember not one better seated; so that it seems to me to have been appointed for a town, whether we regard the rivers, or the conveniency of the coves, docks, springs, the loftiness and soundness of the land and the air.
Penn envisioned his colony of Pennsylvania sprawling westward from the river settlement of Philadelphia, which would serve as the colony’s seat of government and base of mercantile activity.
Philadelphia’s geography made it ideal as an inland seaport, and Penn’s settlement responded to maritime opportunities quickly. The city became the first major shipping port in North America, so much so that a visitor in 1756 commented, “Everybody in Philadelphia deals more or less in trade.” By the onset of the War for Independence, Penn’s town was third only to Liverpool and London as an essential business location.
Aerial view of Philadelphia’s north central waterfront, circa 1930. Port of Philadelphia municipal publication.
The Delaware River waterfront was the axis of the Port of Philadelphia’s maritime, commercial and political bustle for some two hundred years after the city’s founding. For a long time, when people outside Philadelphia thought about the city, this lively place was what came to mind—and not in a bad way.
This was where wheeling and dealing went on to encourage local, regional and national enterprise. This was where a good amount of the nation’s military forces got their start. This was where transportation advances and other inventions were created and exhibited. This was where terrible urban contagions began. This was where early American capitalists made their fortunes. And this was where the individual American colonies were crafted into a nation.
Philadelphia kept its position as America’s greatest trade center until the 1820s, when New York’s location and financial strength bumped Penn’s City to second place. Still, the city’s riverfront remained the heart of town.
But as the river district grew increasingly grim and grimy in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, it started to be taken for granted and then became an afterthought. This change in regard was fostered by Philadelphia’s relentless push to the west, first to the deforested area beyond Sixth Street in the 1700s, then to the City Hall neighborhood in the 1800s and then to points west, north and south in the 1900s.
As wealthy residents and merchants left the original part of Philadelphia for greener pastures, the Delaware River’s edge became forlorn and unattractive—a forgotten backwater, so to speak, and certainly nothing to celebrate. The river itself practically died before World War II because of pollution, while commerce on and by the water declined dramatically afterward. The mile-wide Delaware, long the city’s front door, had shut. An Interstate highway was then run through to seal the deal.
Happily, though, Philadelphia’s central waterfront has been receiving attention lately. Exactly three hundred years after William Penn founded his city on the Delaware, work began on refurbishing two abandoned municipal piers at Penn’s Landing for residential use. This was the first new housing along the river in over one hundred years. Other activity has followed since then, with multimillion-dollar condominiums and increased recreational, entertainment and dining venues of all sorts drawing money and movement back to this part of town. Penn’s Landing has become a citywide gathering place, and even a casino has joined the mix. Philadelphia has finally rediscovered its lifeblood river and the adjoining riverfront.
All told, this is surely the most storied and interesting section of Philadelphia, as it has changed the most—for good or bad—over time. A strong case can be made that it has changed more than anyplace in America.
1
WILLIAM PENN’S SOLUTION TO A TOUCHY DILEMMA IN 1680S PHILADELPHIA
When William Penn founded Philadelphia, the area between the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers was sparsely populated by tribes of Lenni-Lenape Native Americans (the Delaware Indians), who had inhabited villages along the Delaware for one thousand years. “Coaquannock” was their name for the region, meaning “grove of tall pines.” This referred to the pine forest between the two rivers.
The Delaware Indians fished for shad by the river. These fish were so abundant in the Delaware and Schuylkill that Penn described them in correspondence: “Shads are excellent fish and of the Bigness of our Carp. They are so plentiful, that Captain Smyth’s Overseer at the Skulkil, drew 600 and odd at one Draught; 300 is no wonder; 100 familiarly.”
NATURAL TOPOGRAPHY
At 330 miles long, the Delaware River is the longest free-flowing river east of the Mississippi and the third longest on the East Coast. The river and bay were named after Sir Thomas West (1577–1618), the third Baron De La Warr and first governor of the colony of Virginia. The English erroneously thought that he had discovered the river, but there’s no evidence that West ever saw or visited the Delaware. It was actually first explored by Henry Hudson (ca. 1570–ca. 1611), who called it “one of the finest, best, and pleasantest rivers in the world.”
Along the Delaware’s western bank in Philadelphia, the muddy/gravelly edge of the river originally lapped up to the future location of Water Street—a rutted lane now mostly gone in the city’s old waterfront district. Immediately above this tidal flat was a sheer embankment bluff, between ten and fifty feet high, all along the local shoreline, as the river had scoured a deep channel over the eons. The top of this bluff later became Front Street, the first roadway to parallel the river when Philadelphia was planned.
Some of the city’s first settlers actually lived in caves they dug into the embankment, pretty much within the space between where Front and Water Streets came to be. These shallow dugouts, long part of Philadelphia lore and described in chapter five, provided the newcomers with their initial shelter upon reaching Penn’s settlement in the 1680s.
Water Street developed as the pier-head line during the eighteenth century and provided direct access to the various docks and wharves by the Delaware. As time went on, the riverfront east of Water Street became filled with “made-earth.” (This is the more accurate term for landfill when hard ground is formed by piling soil and rock atop water.)
Wharves were built into the water by employing pilings and casements of logs in the shape of boxes, which were then filled with soil and stone and topped with wooden planks. As the wharves extended eastward, the planks were replaced with a harder surface, like flagstones, Belgian blocks or gravel. This eventually became solid ground, on which port structures were often erected. Docks, piers, ferry landings and the like continually moved eastward into the river in this fashion.
A series of east–west alleys cut through this new landscape over time. Commercial structures—stores, shops, lumberyards, warehouses and shipbuilding facilities—were also built on the made-earth between Water Street and the Delaware.
The embankment steps at Wood Street show how steep the western bank of the Delaware was before the march of time obliterated all traces of the riverside’s original landscape.
The terrain at Vine Street had a more gradual descent to the river than that to the south—say, between Race and Market Streets—where the change i
n elevation was greater. Therefore, the number of actual steps (treads) composing the Wood Street stairwell is less than that of the other long-gone Penn stairways. That is to say, the other public stairs—which no longer exist—were generally more impressive than the stairwell at Wood Street. (The Wood Street Steps are covered in chapter four.)
This goes to show that Philadelphia originally had two levels: 1) the main upper plane starting at Front Street and proceeding west and 2) the lower plane beside the Delaware River. This dual set of elevations can still be seen when looking at the city westward from Penn’s Landing. The buildings on Front Street are much higher than those on Columbus Boulevard (formerly Delaware Avenue). Penn’s Landing here is about thirty feet below the rest of Philadelphia.
In between, at its own varying elevation, is Interstate 95.
MERCANTILE DEVELOPMENT
William Penn had wanted his “Greene Countrie Towne” of Philadelphia to unfold evenly between the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers. As part of this plan, he reserved the high frontage along the Delaware for the Proprietary (or Propriety) of Pennsylvania, with land set aside for Penn and his family to use as they saw fit. This space was like the public squares that Penn designated as common parks in the four quadrants of the original city. He further hoped that a promenade with a parapet would stretch atop the length of the Delaware’s west bank to provide a pleasing, uninterrupted view of the river from Front Street.
By Smith Cremens & Company, this 1875 lithograph (Philadelphia in 1702) sets forth a conceptual panoramic view of Philadelphia twenty years after its founding. The city occupies the space between the mouth of Dock Creek on the left and Pegg’s Run on the right. Caves along the embankment and ladders to the top of the bank are visible, as are some early wharves jutting out on the Delaware. Curiously, Windmill Island is missing, although a windmill does appear just about where the long, thin isle should be. The print also contains three small views not shown here: the Penn Treaty, Philadelphia before settlement and the landing of first purchasers. The Library Company of Philadelphia.
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