Hall, Carolyn. The Thirties in Vogue. London: Octopus, 1984.
Hampton, Mark, and Mary Louise Wilson. Full Gallop. New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1997.
Harris, Alexandra. Romantic Moderns: English Writers, Artists and the Imagination from Virginia Woolf to John Piper. London: Thames & Hudson, 2010.
Harrison, Martin. David Bailey. London: Collins, 1984.
Haslam, Nicholas. Redeeming Features: A Memoir. London: Jonathan Cape, 2009.
Hawes, Elizabeth. Fashion Is Spinach: Experiences of a Dress Designer in France and the United States of America. New York: Random House, 1938.
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Higham, Charles. Mrs. Simpson: Secret Lives of the Duchess of Windsor. London: Pan, 2005.
Hobsbawm, Eric. The Age of Extremes: The Short Twentieth Century, 1914–1991. London: Abacus, 1994.
Holgate, Mark. “Couture and Culture on the News Stand: Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar 1945 to 1960.” Thesis submitted to fulfill requirement of M.A. History of Design Course, run jointly by the Royal College of Art and the V & A Museum, 1994.
Homberger, Eric. Mrs. Astor’s New York: Money and Social Power in a Gilded Age. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2002.
Hoving, Thomas. Making the Mummies Dance: Inside the Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1993.
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Hutto, Richard Jay. Their Gilded Cage: The Jekyll Island Club Members. Macon, GA: Henchard, 2006.
Jowitt, Deborah. Time and the Dancing Image. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1989.
Kazanjian, Dodie, and Calvin Tomkins. Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1993.
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Lane, Kenneth Jay. Kenneth Jay Lane: Faking It. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1996.
Lawford, Valentine. Horst: His Work and His World. New York: Knopf, 1984.
———, photographed by Horst, introduction by Diana Vreeland. Vogue’s Book of Houses, Gardens, People. London: Bodley Head, 1968.
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———. The Grand Surprise: The Journals of Leo Lerman, ed. Stephen Pascal. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2007.
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MacGraw, Ali. Moving Pictures. New York: Bantam, 1991.
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McDowell, Colin. Manolo Blahnik. New York: HarperCollins, 2000.
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———. Fi
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The 1972 World Book Year Book: The Annual Supplement to the World Book Encylopedia. Chicago: Field Enterprises, 1972.
SELECTED FILMS AND TV PROGRAMS
Feature Films
Funny Face, directed by Stanley Donen. Paramount Pictures, 1957.
Who Are You, Polly Magoo? directed by William Klein, 1966.
Documentaries
Richard Avedon: Darkness and Light, directed by Helen Whitney, American Masters Series, PBS, 1996.
Bailey on Beaton, directed by Bill Verity, ATV, 1971.
Chop Suey, directed by Bruce Weber, 2001.
Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel, directed by Lisa Immordino Vreeland, 2011.
Television programs
“At the Met: the Eighteenth-Century Woman.” Arts Cable, 1982.
“At the Met: La Belle Epoque 1890–1914.” Arts Cable, 1983.
“Degas, Erté, and Chagall.” Mastervision Arts Series, 1977.
‘The Empress and the Commissioner,” directed by Don Monroe for Andy Warhol TV, Manhattan Cable, 1980.
Theater Production Recording
Full Gallop, by Mark Hampton and Mary Louise Wilson, starring Mary Louise Wilson. Videotaped by The New York Public Library’s Theater on Film and Tape Archive at the Waterside Theater (Downstairs), New York, N.Y., August 13, 1997.
Permissions
The author gratefully acknowledges the following for permission to quote from copyrighted material:
Assouline Publishing for permission to quote from Veruschka by Vera Lehndorff and David Wills, © 2008 Assouline Publishing.
Mrs. Hugh Astor for permission to quote from the albums of Emily Hoffman Dalziel and Alexandra Dalziel.
The Richard Avedon Foundation for permission to quote from The Richard Avedon Foundation archive, and other works by Richard Avedon.
Bob Colacello for permission to reprint extracts from Holy Terror © 1990 by Bob Colacello. Reprinted by permission of the author.
Condé Nast Publicatons for permission to quote from Vogue, The New Yorker, Women’s Wear Daily, and Vanity Fair.
Dr. Mary Aswell Doll for permission to quote from The World of Carmel Snow by Carmel Snow with Marie Louise Aswell.
Doubleday for permission to quote from In and Out of Vogue: A Memoir by Grace Mirabella, Judith Warner © 1995 by Grace Mirabella. Used by permission of Doubleday, a division of Random House, Inc.; and The Wheels of Fashion by Phyllis Lee Levin.
Field Enterprises Corporation for permission to quote from The 1972 World Book Year Book: The Annual Supplement to the World Book Encylopedia.
HarperCollins Publishers Inc. for permission to quote from By Myself and Then Some by Lauren Bacall; Diana Vreeland by Eleanor Dwight; and Bare Blass by Bill Blass and Cathy Horyn.
The Hearst Corporation for permission to quote from Harper’s Bazaar.
Dodie Kazanjian for permission to quote from The Dodie Kazanjian Papers, Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution.
Caroline Kennedy for permission to quote from letters written by her mother, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, to Diana Vreeland, 1960–61.
Little, Brown & Company for permission to quote from Billy Baldwin: An Autobiography by Billy Baldwin and Michael Gardine.
The Metropolitan Museum of Art to quote work excerpted from Romantic and Glamorous Hollywood Design, Copyright © 1974 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Reprinted by permission. Work excerpted from Vanity Fair © 1977 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Reprinted by permission. Work excerpted from Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style by Richard Martin and Harold Koda. Copyright © 1993 by The Metropolitan Musuem of Art, New York. Reprinted by permission.
Peters Fraser & Dunlop for permission to quote a parody of Diana Vreeland from “Why Don’t You Parody” by S. J. Perelman. Reprinted by permission of Peters Fraser and Dunlop [www.petersfraserdunlop.com] on behalf of the Estate of S. J. Perelman.
The Random House Group Ltd. for permission to quote from Redeeming Features: A Memoir by Nicholas Haslam, published by Jonathan Cape. Reprinted by permission of the Random House Group Ltd; and from What Am I Doing Here? by Bruce Chatwin, published by Jonathan Cape. Reprinted by permission of the Random House Group Ltd and Aitken Alexander Associates.
Rolling Stone for permission to use material excerpted from Rolling Stone, August 11, 1977 © 1977 Rolling Stone LLC.
Penelope Rowlands for permission to quote from A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters © 2005 by Penelope Rowlands.
Calvin Tomkins for permission to quote from the Calvin Tomkins Papers, Series II, The Museum of Modern Art Achives, New York; from “The World of Carmel Snow,” The New Yorker, November 7, 1994; and, with Dodie Kazanjian, from Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman.
Hugo Vickers for permission to quote from the works and letters of Sir Cecil Beaton, and the Papers of Sir Cecil Beaton, St. John’s College Library © The Literary Executors of the late Sir Cecil Beaton.
The estate of Diana Vreeland for permission to quote from The Diana Vreeland Papers, Manuscripts and Archives Division, The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox, and Tilden Foundations; D.V. by Diana Vreeland; Allure by Diana Vreeland; the Diana Vreeland Tapes; and other works by Diana Vreeland.
The Andy Warhol Foundation for permission to quote selections from The Andy Warhol Diaries by Andy Warhol, © 1989 by the Estate of Andy Warhol, used by permission of The Wylie Agency LLC.
All attempts at tracing the copyright holder of Lifework by Norman Parkinson have been unsuccessful. The author has made every effort to trace the owners of copyright material. Please notify her of any omissions, which will be corrected in a subsequent edition.
Photo Credits
[SECTION ONE]
Page 1: Courtesy of Mrs. Hugh Astor.
Page 2: Top left: photographer unknown.
Top right: Photograph by John McMullin. Copyright © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis.
Bottom: Photographic study for painting by William Acton. Courtesy of the Diana Vreeland Estate.
Page 3: Top: Photograph by George Hoyningen-Huene. Copyright © Horst. Courtesy of Staley-Wise Gallery.
> Bottom: Photograph by Martin Munckácsi. Copyright © Estate of Martin Munckácsi. Courtesy of Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York.
Page 4: Top: Photograph by Louise Dahl-Wolfe. Copyright © 1989 Center for Creative Photography, Arizona Board of Regents.
Bottom: Photograph by Walter Sanders. Courtesy of Getty Images.
Page 5: Top: Photograph by Louise Dahl-Wolfe. Copyright © 1989 Center for Creative Photography, Arizona Board of Regents.
Bottom: Pragoff Cantor, photographer unknown.
Pages 6 and 7: All photographs by Louise Dahl-Wolfe. Copyright © The Museum at FIT. Reprinted with the permission of the Hearst Corporation.
Page 8: Photograph by Richard Avedon. Copyright © The Richard Avedon Foundation.
[SECTION TWO]
Page 1: Photograph by Richard Avedon © The Richard Avedon Foundation.
Pages 2 and 3: Photograph by James Karales. Courtesy of the Estate of James Karales. Copyright © Estate of James Karales.
Page 4: Left and bottom right: Photographs by Franco Rubartelli. Copyright © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis. Top right: Photograph by Henry Clarke. Copyright © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis.
Page 5: Top: Photograph by Bert Stern. Stern/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast.
Bottom: Photograph by Bert Stern. Copyright © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis.
Page 6: Photograph by Cecil Beaton. Courtesy of the Cecil Beaton Archive at Sotheby’s.
Page 7: Top: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Photograph by Al Mozell. Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Bottom: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Photograph by Al Mozell. Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Page 8: Photograph by Richard Avedon © The Richard Avedon Foundation.
Index
The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.
Abreu, Mme Jean-Claude, 245–46
Acton, William, 90, 99
Adams, James Truslow, 46
Adlerberg, Va-Va, 155, 359n 155
Adolfo, 210
Empress of Fashion Page 45
