Forquet, Federico, 212
Frankau, Ethel, 177
Fraser, Lady Antonia, 215
Free Speech Movement, 202
Friedan, Betty, 226–27, 243, 244
Frisco, Joe, 216
Frissell, Toni, 130
Funny Face (film), 169–70
Galanos, James, 164, 190, 215, 246
Galitzine, Irene, 161
Gallant, Ara, 208, 234, 255, 276, 369n 235
Garbo, Greta, 90, 113, 237, 282, 285, 302
Geldzahler, Henry, 31
George V, 27, 82, 301, 350n 82
Germany: DV in, 1930s, 93–94, 351n 93; fascism and, 116–17; Hitler’s rise, 94; Night of the Long Knives, 94
Gernreich, Rudi, 183
Gershwin, Ira, 136
Getty, Talitha, 252
Gibson girl, 46
Givenchy, Hubert de, 175, 176, 196, 238, 242, 315
Glamour magazine, 170
Glass of Fashion, The (Beaton), 153
Godden, Rumer, 212
Goldberg, Vicki, 131
Goodman, Tonne, 284, 373n 284
Gosse, Sir Edmund, 75
Gould, Mrs. George, 24
Graham, Katharine, 264, 274
Grant, Cary, 282
Gray, Francine du Plessix, 182
Greene, Alexander Plunket, 199
Green Hat, The (Arlen), 58
Grimes, Tammy, 196
Griswold, Marjorie, 130–31, 266
Gross, Michael, 277
Guest, C. Z., 155, 168, 296, 320
Guinness, Gloria, 155, 276
Guitry, Sacha, 113
Gulbenkian, Nubar, 82
Haig, Douglas, 52
Halston (Roy Halston Frowick), 178, 275, 276, 280, 288, 296, 321
Happiest Millionaire, The (Robertson), 150
Hardy, Françoise, 195
Harlem Renaissance, 60
Harnett, Sunny, 206
Harper’s Bazaar (formerly Harper’s Bazar), 96; advertisers, 111, 124, 132, 163–64, 172, 360n 156; article by Emily Dalziel, 62, 63, 109, 347n 62; Avedon at, 156–57, 162, 175, 179, 204–5; Bacall as model, 134–36; Balenciaga and, 161; Bousquet as Paris editor, 161; Brodovitch as art director, 108–9, 115, 132, 156, 157, 171, 172; Chanel’s return and, 162; circulation, 110, 156, 253; clothes and style of staff, 157; color photography of Dahl-Wolfe in, 131–32; daring innovations, 108, 109, 132; designers supported by, 164–66; Dior’s New Look and, 145–46, 358n 145; “Dovima with Elephants,” 162; DV and anecdote of billiard table green, 173, 362n 173; DV arrives at, 105; DV as fashion editor covering New York, 1, 2, 119–37, 162–67; DV as model, 133; DV as “Why Don’t You?” columnist, 1, 112–19, 121, 139, 326, 354n 112; DV hired, 102–4, 353n 103; DV on the New Look, 145–46, 358n 145; DV photographed in, 110; DV quits, 180 ; DV’s admirers, 158; DV’s Brewster house used for photo shoots, 139; DV’s clothing and makeup, 157, 360n 157; DV’s detractors, 158–59; DV’s fashion ideas, 123–24, 130, 165; DV’s importance to, 168, 180; DV’s language in, 119, 126, 169, 323; DV’s observations on the lifestyle of socialites, 111–12; DV’s salary, 119, 355n 119, 179; DV’s task defined by Snow, 163; DV’s taste, 74–76; DV’s working with others, 130–31; fascism and, 116–17; Fellowes as Paris editor, 110–11; fiction published in, 110; first all-American issue, 126; graphic design at, 156; Hearst executives and, 171; “I’d Be Lost Without” feature, 111–12; individualism of the 1960s, 168; international beau monde in, 110–11; Italian designers in, 161, 211; Kennedy family photos in, 179; ; McFadden as managing editor, 110; mentors and teaching at, 158, 173; models for, 168–69; “No Place Like Home” article, 136–37; nudity in, 246; office of, 110; parodied in Funny Face, 169–70; “Pearls of Little Price,” 132; photography in, 107–9, 131–34, 156–57, 172, 173 (see also specific photographers); photo shoot at Taliesin West, 133; poaching Vogue staff, 106, 110; post-war changes, 156–57; production process at, 166–67; readership, 116, 126–27, 147, 168–69; Snow and Paris couture, 119, 147; Snow as editor in chief, 102–11, 118, 132, 136, 147, 157, 161, 164, 180; Snow replaced, 170–71; Snow’s vision, 107, 108, 109–10; training women’s tastes and, 163, 180; as Vogue rival, 105–10; White as editor in chief, 171–73, 179, 180, 206; “Why Don’t You?” column parodied, 117–18; Wolf as art director, 172, 173; World War II and, 126–34
Harriman, Mrs. William Averell, 111–12
Harris, Alexandra, 80
Hart, Catherine Carlisle, 203
Hart, Moss, 136, 203
Haslam, Nicholas, 197, 201, 289, 316; on DV, 2, 5; as friend of DV and Reed, 197, 367n 225; at Vogue, 181, 183, 218
Hawkins, Ashton, 269, 270–71
Hawks, Howard, 135
Hearst, William Randolph, 105, 108, 115, 117, 171
Hearst Publications, 103, 110, 119, 171, 355n 119
Hemphill, Christopher, 30, 39, 47, 97, 122, 222, 245, 313, 325; Allure and, 300–301; recording DV, 300, 342n 30, 349n 73
Henri Bendel (store), 117
Hepburn, Audrey, 196, 266, 282, 302
Herman, Stan, 281
Herrera, Carolina, 307–8
Higgins, Eugene, 17–18
Hitler, Adolph, 94, 116–17, 206
Hobsbawm, Eric, 144
Hoffman, Ellis (uncle), 18, 341n 19
Hoffman, George (grandfather), 13–14, 339n 14
Holzer, Jane (Baby Jane), 197, 227, 288
Hooper, Bett, 117
Horst, 131, 183, 184, 201, 215, 218, 219, 357n 131
Hotel Beau-Rivage, Ouchy, Switzerland, 101–2
Hoving, Thomas, 267, 268, 278, 293–94; DV and, 268–69, 274, 280, 286, 311
Howe, Mrs. William Deering, 112
Hoyningen-Huene, George, 74, 110, 131, 140
Hughes, Fred, 289–92, 305–6, 307, 376n 305; recording DV, 299–300
Hugo, Victor (Warhol model), 288
Hulanicki, Barbara, 227, 368n 227
Hunnewell, “Baby Belle”, 67
Hunnewell, Hollis, 44–45
Huston, Anjelica, 241–42, 287
Hutton, Lauren, 230–31, 233, 246, 254, 321
Iman, 287
Interview magazine, 288, 291, 302, 376n 305
In the Russian Style (ed. Onassis), 294, 296
Isham, Sandra, 313
Jacobs, Marc, 326
Jagger, Bianca, 288
Jagger, Mick, 5, 198, 288, 320
Jamail, Stephen, 314, 326
James, Charles, 5
Janssen’s restaurant, 201
Javits, Mrs. Jacob, 279
Jay Thorpe, 133, 357n 133
John, Augustus, 155
John-Fredericks milliners, 121
Johnson, Betsey, 232, 368n 227
Johnson, Lady Bird, 201
Johnson, Philip, 291
Johnson, Sydney, 271
Jourdan, Charles, 193–94
Junior Bazaar, 156, 360n 156
Kamali, Norma, 298
Kaufman, Anne, 58
Kaufman, Beatrice, 110, 136
Kaufman, Elizabeth, 44
Kaufman, George S., 136
Kavanagh, Joan, 242
Keith, Slim, 155
Kelly, Grace, 282
Kemp, Isabel, 139–40
Kennedy, Courtney, 307
Kennedy, Ethel, 307
Kennedy, Jacqueline (Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis); Allure and, 300–301, 311; American designers and, 176–77; Cassini and, 177–78; criticism of clothes by press, 174, 362n 174; DV as fashion advisor, 174–79; DV as friend, 5, 27, 266, 269, 296, 298, 311, 314, 320, 362n 174; Freck and Betty Vreeland and, 175; Givenchy and, 175; The Glory of Russian Costume exhibit and, 293, 294; hat by Halston, 178; inauguration gown, 176, 177; muff for inauguration, DV’s idea, 178; offended by Hughes, 3
07; Party of the Year committee president, 296, 298; Pucci and, 178; In the Russian Style, 294, 296; in Vogue, 193
Kennedy, John F., 174–75, 178, 201; DV at inauguration, 179
Kennedy, Joseph, 177
Kennedy, Robert F., 240
Kennedy, Rose, 274
Kent, Duchess of, 113
Key, Emily (great-grandmother), 14
Key, Francis Scott, 14, 23, 339n 14
Khan, Aga, 101–2
Khan, Aly, 187
Khanh, Emanuelle, 195, 200, 368n 227
Kidd, David, 161
Kinloch, Alexander (brother-in-law), 73, 76
Kinloch, Alexandra Dalziel (sister), 22, 25, 28, 30, 31, 34, 50, 71, 73, 95–96; beauty of, 43, 51, 342n 28; DV and, 23, 27, 43, 53–54; DV’s wedding and, 67
Kinloch, Sir David, 73
Kinloch, Emi-Lu (niece), 137–40, 151, 222
Kirkland, Sally, 128
Kissinger, Henry, 315, 319
Klein, Adolph, 128
Klein, Calvin, 276
Klein, William, 183, 236
Koch, Max, 281
Koda, Harold, 280, 297, 308, 322, 325
Kornbluth, Jesse, 303, 317
Korshunova, Tamara, 295
Kublin, Tom, 273
Lady in the Dark (Broadway musical), 136–37, 160, 170
Lambert, Eleanor, 176, 268, 269, 276, 277
Lane, Kenneth Jay, 277, 288, 318; DV and, 11, 262–63, 276, 281, 286; on DV and Reed, 223; DV befriends, 165–66; DV’s jewelry and, 317
Langlade, Françoise de. See de la Renta, Françoise
Lanvin, 224
Lanza, Mario, 148–49
L’Atlantide (film), 92–93
Lauren, Ralph, 312
La Vine, Robert, 280
Lawford, Valentine, 154, 218, 219
Lawrence, Gertrude, 136–37, 301
Lazar, Irving “Swifty,” 7
le Bourhis, Katell, 314
Lenox Hill Hospital, 319, 320
Lerman, Leo, 288, 318, 375n 303
Leser, Tina, 133
Levin, Phyllis Lee, 76, 90, 139
Levine, Harold, 234
Lewisohn, Irene and Alice, 267
Liberman, Alexander, 181–82, 184, 190, 191, 198, 257; Avedon hiring, 205; DV and, 184, 186, 226, 254, 257–58, 260, 261 ; DV firing, 256–59, 262; DV hiring, 181–82
Lieberson, Jonathan, 3, 5, 41, 265, 302, 324
Life magazine, 128
Liotard, Jean-Étienne, 214
Littlewood, Joan, 200
Lloyd, Kate, 187
London, England: artists and rich patrons, 79, 80; boutique design and youth fashion, 1960’s, 227–28, 368n 227; “Bright Young People,” 80; café society, 78, 79, 110, 124; decades of 1920s vs. 1960s, 199; d’Erlanger home, 77–78; DV’s home at 17 Hanover Terrace, 75–76; DV’s shop, 98–99, 352n 99; fashion designers in, 199, 227–28; inwardness of the rich, 1930s, 93; Maugham’s “White House,” 75; “swinging London” of the 1960s, 197–99, 239; Vreelands in (1929–1935), 73–102; Zoo, 95
Lopez, Victor, 102
Lord & Taylor, 125–26, 130, 199, 266, 267
Lorillard, Pierre, IV, 56
Louis XIV, 119
Ludwig II of Bavaria, 94
Luna, Donyale, 228, 229
Lydig, Rita, 153, 293, 301
MacBride, Robert, 303, 375n 303
Macdonald, Nesta, 309
MacGraw, Ali, 158, 159, 360n 157
Mackay, Ellin, 346n 59, 346n 60
Mainbocher, 84, 125, 144, 164, 190, 252, 270, 350n 84; DV and, 97, 110, 157–58, 164, 270, 360n 157
Manzoni, Pablo, 8, 338n 8
Marbury, Bessie (Elisabeth), 80
Margaret, Princess, Countess of Snowdon 193
Marlborough, Duchess of. See Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt
Marlborough, Duke of, 15
Martin, Richard, 280, 297, 308, 322, 325
Martini, Nino, 117
Martini, Umberto de, 269
Mary of Teck, queen consort, 82
Maugham, Somerset, 75
Maugham, Syrie, 75, 99, 103, 139, 154, 352n 100, 353n 103
Maximilian Furs, 255, 266
Maxwell, Elsa, 81
Maxwell, Vera, 125
Mazor, Boaz, 284, 307
McCardell, Claire, 127–28, 133, 145, 165, 321, 356n 128; DV and, 127–29; “Monastic” dress, 128; the “Popover” and, 128–29
McCooey, Meriel, 239
McFadden, Frances, 105, 110, 140
McIver, Mrs. Randall, 35, 43–44
McKendry, Maxime, 288
McMullin, Johnnie (John), 78, 80–81, 97
McQueen, Alexander, 326
Mead, Margaret, 251
Mellen, Polly, 158, 205–6, 208, 209, 232, 238, 261
Mellon, Mrs. Paul, 270, 274
Mendes, Valerie D., 229
Mendl, Elsie. See de Wolfe, Elsie Mendl
Mendl, Sir Charles, 80, 353n 101
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 267, 278–79. See also Costume Institute; Hoving, Thomas
Miles, Sarah, 195
Miller, Anna, 163
Miller, Annie Hopkins, 288
Miller, Arthur, 183
Miller, Gilbert, 124, 155
Miller, Kitty (Mrs. Gilbert), 84, 124, 139, 155, 225, 262, 276
Mirabella, Grace, 204, 241, 255–56; DV and, 181, 188–90, 254–55, 263, 264; on DV at Vogue, 187, 188, 189, 213, 260; as editor in chief, Vogue, 259–60, 262, 263
Missoni, 212, 366n 211
Mitford, Jessica, 244, 245
Mitford, Nancy, 244
Mitford, Unity, 117, 244
Miyake, Issey, 280, 291, 301
Monroe, Marilyn, 185, 282, 301
Montebello, Philippe de, 297–98, 320, 322
Monteil, Germaine, 126
Moore, Lucy, 58
Morgan, Thelma and Gloria, 60
Morris, Bernadine, 276, 278–79
Mountbatten, Edwina, 352n 98
Müller-Ury, Adolfo, 16
Munkácsi, Martin, 107–8, 110, 131, 133, 156, 231, 301
Murray, Mae, 281
Mussolini, Benito, 117
Nash, John, 75
Nast, Condé, 64, 75, 81–82, 92, 99; Vogue and, 74–75, 106
Neuhaus, Lacey, 305, 376n 305
Newhouse, Sam, 182, 186, 191, 371n 256
Newhouse, Si, 191, 256, 258, 260, 371n 256; firing of DV and, 258–59
Newport, Rhode Island, 15, 20, 340n 15
Newton, Helmut, 183, 212, 248
New York American, 81
New York City: art movements in, 60, 115; ballroom dancing in, 36–37; beauty salons, 1920s, 58; boutique design and youth fashion, 1960’s, 227–28; Brook Club, 24; Carbonites, 17; Colony Club, 50, 56, 58; Dalziel family’s status, 22–24; debutante season, 15–16, 55–56, 58–61; decline of the 1970s, 286; DV and Seventh Avenue, 163, 173, 253; DV returns, 1935, 102; DV’s childhood in, 22–55; DV’s social circle, 1950s, 155; DV’s social force, 1970s, 286–87; DV’s social success noted, 81; DV-supported designers and manufacturers, 164–65; DV’s wedding, 65–67; Ellis family in, 14–15; fashionable venues, 56; as fashion and taste leader, 56; fashion as competition in, 120; fashion industry, 119–22, 125–34, 183, 356n 130; fashion industry and DV, 119–37, 147, 213, 266; Fifth Avenue stores, 117, 121, 182, 203, 213; “Four Hundred,” 14, 15, 16, 20, 63; fur district, 355n 121; garment district, 121, 355n 121; Gilded Age, 14; Harlem Renaissance, 60; Paris couture copies in, 120, 128, 146–47, 163, 164; Party of the Year in, 277–78;
polio epidemic, 1916, 33, 343n 33; Roaring Twenties, 56–57, 60–61, 346n 60; Snow and Americanization of Parisian designs, 161–62; wealth and status in, 14–16, 19–20, 24,
50, 56–57, 60, 155, 225
New Yorker, 128, 117–18, 285, 286
New York, 303
Nicholson, Jack, 5, 281, 287
Nijinsky, Vaslav, 22, 26, 37
Nixon, Patricia, 174, 175
Nixon, Richard, 174
Noailles, Vicomte and Vicomtesse, 90, 113, 301
Norell, Norman, 164, 176, 177, 190, 193–94, 252, 253, 266
North, J. Ringling, 59
Nureyev, Rudolf, 246–47, 370n 247
Obolensky, Serge, 155, 296
O’Brien, Edna, 200
Ochs, Phil, 202
Orrick, Mildred, 128
Paley, Barbara “Babe,” 155, 159, 266, 269
Paley, Stephen, 320
Paolozzi, Christina, 246
Paris, France: apartment of Princess Guy de Faucigny-Lucinge, 76; art movements in, 108; Belle Epoque, 26–27; boutique design and youth fashion, 1960’s, 200, 227–28; Chanel and, 85–88; Courrèges and, 200–201; couture, 83–88, 119, 143–47, 234–35 (see also specific designers); Dalziel family in, 13; Diaghilev’s influence, 37; DV in, 1971, 263; DV in, 1972, 271–73; DV’s birth in, 11–12; DV’s childhood trips to, 25–27; DV’s fantasy of Paris upbringing, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27, 31, 180, 225–26; DV’s trips during 1930s, 92–93, 124–25; DV at Vogue and, 189, 235, 254; DV’s wardrobe from, 124; Gilded Age, 13, 20; Harper’s Bazaar and, 111; Iolas Gallery, 290; “Les Dames de Vogue,” 83, 84, 96, 234; lifestyle of the rich, 90–92; mannequin du monde, 85, 146; New York as fashion rival, 120; World War II and, 124, 125
Parish, Sister, 289–90, 374n 290
Parker, Suzy, 168, 169
Parkinson, Norman, 205, 216–18
Parsons The New School for Design, 128
Patchett, Jean, 206
Patou, Jean, 127
Paul, Maury, 72, 81, 348n 72
Pavlovich, Grand Duke Dmitri, 87, 294
Paxton, Tom, 202
Peabody, Mrs. Malcolm E., 233
Peck, Polly, 200
Peck, Priscilla, 194, 276
Penati, Gianni, 246
Penn, Irving, 182, 193, 195, 197, 198, 205, 207, 214, 234, 246, 249, 280, 301
Perelman, S. J., 117–18
Peter, Paul, and Mary, 202
Petigny, Alan, 236
Phillips, Carol, 188, 223, 250, 253, 257, 258
Piaggi, Anna, 258
Pickford, Mary, 281
Plimpton, George, 85, 87, 254, 293, 313, 320; recording DV and, 303–4
Plunkett, Walter, 281
Poiret, Paul, 37, 59, 120, 279
Pollock, Jackson, 60
Portarlington, Lady, 99
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