This long list of our uses for chickpeas is incredible, as we eat it in so many ways.
I use them in savory pancakes, grind them into a powder that thickens soups,
and also bake cakes with chickpea flour. When you come from a family that uses
ingredients to their last breath, you learn a thing or two about how versatile that
ingredient is. Perhaps this is why there is a hummus war happening. Everyone
wants to claim the little chickpea for themselves, as you can get so much out of
it. Hummus isn’t just a dip, it is the king of pulses, reigning over all else.
For us, hummus, the chickpea, is one of our most important ingredients. It has
been around the home, the dinner table, in restaurants, and in the shops. There
is no escaping it. Because there is something special about it.
Joudie Kalla is a British-Palestinian chef, food consultant, menu developer, and cooking
teacher from London. Her family is originally from Jaffa. She is the author of the bestselling
cookbooks Palestine on a Plate and Baladi.
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Hummus
H U M M U S B I L S H A T T A H U M M U S W I T H H O T P E P P E R S
I like my hummus spicy. I always make hummus beiruti, plain hummus served with green chile
peppers and chile powder. However, in order to make it Palestinian, I began making it with shatta,
a Palestinian red chile paste. The paste is mixed through the hummus and drizzled on top, just the way
my teta made it in Jaffa, where spices and chiles were ever-present in the food. Recipe by Joudie Kalla
Serves 4 to 6
1. Prepare the shatta paste: Using a mortar and pestle,
pound the chile peppers to a rustic, chunky paste.
For the Shatta Paste
Add the apple-cider vinegar, salt, and garlic, and
1 pound (450 grams) hot red chile peppers, such as
pound to a thick paste. Alternatively, purée in a
fresno, stems removed (8 to 10 peppers)
food processor. Adjust seasoning to taste. The paste
1 teaspoon apple-cider vinegar
should be spicy; use sparingly.
1 to 2 tablespoons salt
1 garlic clove, crushed
2. Transfer to an airtight container and cover
Olive oil
with olive oil. The shatta paste will keep in the
refrigerator for several weeks.
For the Hummus
Two 15-ounce cans (850 grams) chickpeas
3. Prepare the hummus: Set aside ½ cup (125 grams)
or 3½ cups (850 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for
chickpeas, and put the remaining chickpeas in a
Hummus (pages 176-7)
blender with the lemon juice, garlic, tahini, yogurt,
Juice of 2 lemons
and salt. Blend to a smooth paste.
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tablespoons tahini
4. Stir in some chopped parsley and 1 teaspoon of
1 tablespoon Greek yogurt
shatta paste, and spread the hummus on a plate.
1 teaspoon salt
Drizzle a little more shatta paste on top, scatter on
some parsley leaves and the reserved ½ cup
Whole and chopped parsley leaves, for garnish
(125 grams) chickpeas, and serve immediately.
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Jaffa
M S A B A H A S W I M M I N G C H I C K P E A S
If you’re a tahini lover, this is the hummus for you. As is the case with most recipes, its success lies
in the quality of the ingredients: extra-soft golden chickpeas, a fine delicate olive oil, and fresh,
aromatic herbs. Tatbile hot sauce, a combination of fresh green chiles, pickled shipka peppers,
lots of garlic, and lemon, is the perfect foil to creamy tahini.
Serves 4
1. Prepare the sauce: Place all the ingredients in a bowl
and mix well.
For the Tatbile Hot Sauce
¼ cup (60 milliliters) olive oil
2. Prepare the hummus, msabaha style: Place a
Juice of 1 lemon
heatproof bowl over a pot of simmering water. Add
2 pickled shipka peppers, or pickled jalapeño
the chickpeas with the cooking liquid, tahini, and
peppers, finely chopped
salt, and stir until the tahini and liquid form a thick
1 green chile pepper, such as serrano, seeded
and creamy paste.
and finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
3. Spread the msabaha in a shallow bowl, and top with
Pinch of cumin
1 tablespoon of the Tat e Hot Sauce, parsley, and a
pinch of cumin.
For the Hummus
4 cups (1 kilogram) Cooked Chickpeas for Hummus
4. Serve immediately, as is, with a fork or with a warm
(pages 176-7), plus ½ to ²⁄₃ cup (120 to 180
pita pocket, and the remaining hot sauce on the side.
milliliters) chickpea cooking liquid
½ to ²⁄₃ cup (120 to 180 grams) raw tahini
1 teaspoon salt
To Serve
Flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Ground cumin
Pita Pockets (page 124)
118
119
Jaffa
Hummus
M E S H U L A S H T R I P L E H U M M U S
At Abu Hassan, the legendary hummus eatery near the port of Jaffa, lore has it that a customer once
ordered a “meshulash” (triangle in Hebrew), a combination of the three dips they make – hummus
with tahini, hummus with whole chickpeas, and hummus with fava beans. The meshulash became
so popular that the owners put it on the menu, and it went on to become their signature dish.
Serves 4
1. Prepare the fava beans: Place the small dried fava
beans in a large bowl, add water to cover by at least
For the Fava Beans
2 inches (5 centimeters). Soak for 8 hours, changing
1 cup (250 grams) small dried fava beans
the water every 2 hours, a total of 4 times.
½ cup (100 grams) split small dried white
fava beans
2. Drain the fava beans and place in a large saucepan.
1 teaspoon baking soda
Add the split fava beans and baking soda, cover
4 cups (1 liter) water
with the 4 cups (1 liter) water, and bring to a boil.
½ cup (100 grams) red lentils
Reduce heat to low and simmer until the fava beans
are tender, about 3 hours.
2 cups (500 grams) Hummus Hakosem (pages 178-9)
1 cup (250 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for Salads
3. Add the red lentils, add water to cover by at least
and Stews (pages 176-7)
2 inches (5 centimeters), and cook for 40 minutes,
1 cup (240 grams) Tahini Sauce (page 281)
stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon and
Tatbile Hot Sauce (page 118)
adding more water as necessary. The stewed fava
Olive oil, for drizzling
beans should be the consistency of a thick porridge.
Chopped parsley
4. Divide the hummus among 4 shallow bowls,
Tip
then top with the warm cooked chickpeas and stewed
Instead of preparing the fava beans, use two
fava beans. Drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the tahini
14-ounce cans (800 grams) fava beans (ful
and the Tatbile Hot Sauce, followed by more tahini,
medames), available at Middle Eastern speciality
olive oil, and chopped parsley. Serve immedia
tely.
stores or online
120
121
Jaffa
Hummus
S A R D I N E F A L A F E L
W H I T E F A V A B E A N H U M M U S
During Ramadan, falafel balls are transformed into a special festive food, stuffed with seasoned
This ancient recipe came all the way from North Africa with the Luzon family. Soaking the fava beans
ground meat. That is the inspiration for this recipe, which incorporates canned sardines into the
in advance aids with digestion, and helps the beans cook faster and more evenly. Recipe by Itzik Luzon
crispy chickpea fritters. Serve them in a pita pocket with chopped salad and yogurt.
Serves 6
1. Place the fava beans and kosher salt in a large
Serves 4
1. Rinse the chickpeas thoroughly. Place in a large
bowl, add water to cover by at least 2 inches
bowl, add water to cover by at least 2 inches
1½ cups (300 grams) split small dried white
(5 centimeters), and soak for at least 2 hours.
1½ cups (300 grams) dried chickpeas
(5 centimeters), and soak for 12 hours. If it’s hot in
fava beans
4 tins sardines, 3¾ ounces (105 grams) each
your kitchen, soak the chickpeas in the refrigerator.
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2. Drain the fava beans and rinse thoroughly.
1 medium onion, chopped
1 garlic clove
3 scallions, chopped
2. Drain the chickpeas and rinse thoroughly.
¼ lemon
3. Transfer the fava beans to a large, deep saucepan.
2 garlic cloves
¼ green chile pepper, such as serrano
Add the garlic, lemon, and chile pepper. Add water
1 green chile pepper, such as serrano, seeded
3. Using a meat grinder, grind the chickpeas into a
1 teaspoon salt
to cover by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters),
1 cup parsley
chunky paste. Grind the scallions, garlic, chile,
1 teaspoon cumin
and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer
1 cup cilantro
parsley, and cilantro and mix with the chickpeas.
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
until the fava beans are soft and the cooking liquid
1 tablespoon ground coriander
Alternatively, in the bowl of a food processor fitted
3 tablespoons olive oil
is thick, 1 to 1¼ hours. Using a spoon, occasionally
1 tablespoon ground cumin
with a steel blade, process in several batches.
skim the foam floating to the surface.
1¼ teaspoons salt
The paste should be crumbly but hold together
To Serve
1 teaspoon baking soda
when squeezed into a ball. Add more water if
Pita Pockets (page 124)
4. Remove the lemon and chile pepper. Add salt,
2 to 3 tablespoons water
needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, to achieve the
Cooked white rice
cumin, lemon juice, and olive oil. Stir together,
Oil, for frying
desired consistency.
season to taste.
To Serve
4. Heat 2 inches (5 centimeters) of oil in a deep
5. Serve with pita or cooked white rice.
Pita Pockets (page 124)
saucepan over medium heat to 350°F (180°C).
Chopped Vegetable Salad (page 280)
(See Tip.) Using a falafel spoon or a small ice-cream
Plain whole-milk yogurt
scoop, divide the mixture into balls the size of
2 lemons, cut into wedges
walnuts and lightly press to flatten. Fry the falafel
balls, 6 at a time, until golden brown all over,
Tip
about 3 minutes. Transfer to a colander or a paper-
When forming the falafel, make 1 test ball, fry and
towel-lined baking sheet to remove excess oil.
taste it for seasoning. Adjust seasoning before
continuing with the rest.
5. Serve warm, stuffed into pita pockets, with chopped
salad and yogurt spooned over the top. Squeeze a
little lemon juice on top and eat immediately.
122
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Jaffa
P I T A P O C K E T S
Mix the ingredients into a smooth dough, knead, roll, cook on a skillet or bake in the oven,
and watch the magic happen as the flatbreads inflate into pockets of air.
Makes 10 pita pockets
1. Place all the dry ingredients in the bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment and
3½ cups (490 grams) all-purpose flour, sifted
mix well. Add the oil and water and knead on
2 teaspoons sugar
medium speed, about 8 minutes, until a smooth
1 teaspoon salt
dough forms. Cover and let rise for 1 hour, until the
2 teaspoons instant dry yeast
dough doubles in volume.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1¼ cups (300 milliliters) water
2. Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface,
and push down the dough to release the air. Using
Tips
a scale, divide the dough into 10 equal pieces.
To cook the pita on the stovetop: Heat a medium
skillet over high heat, then flip the dough onto
3. Roll the pieces into balls, place on a floured surface,
the skillet. (Make sure to flip the dough when
cover and let rise for 10 minutes.
transferring onto the pan, this will help it puff
up.) Lower heat to medium-high and cook for 2
4. Place a ball on a floured surface and roll into a
minutes, until the pita puffs up. (If it doesn’t start
6-inch (15 centimeter) diameter circle, ¼ inch
to puff up after a few seconds, cover the pan, then
(5 millimeters) thick. Repeat with the remaining
cook.) Flip the bread and cook on the other side,
balls, cover, and let rise for 20 minutes.
for 2 to 3 minutes more, until both sides are lightly
golden brown.
5. Place a baking stone at the bottom of the oven,
and heat the oven to the highest temperature.
To thaw frozen pita: Wrap a pita in a clean
towel and microwave for about 20 seconds,
6. Flip 4 rounds onto the baking stone, making sure
until steaming.
to flip the dough when transferring onto the stone
(this will help it puff up during baking). Bake for
about three minutes, until the pitas puff up and are
lightly golden.
7. Cover the pitas with a towel until they have cooled
slightly so that they don’t dry out. Repeat with the
remaining dough. Pita is best eaten on the day it’s
made, or can be frozen for up to three months.
124
Under the old arches of an Ottoman
building, Avraham Tawashi watches
over his bakery’s large stone oven.
For decades, the city’s mix of people
brought their stews and casseroles
to cook here overnight.
126
Hummus
A B R I E F H I S T O R Y O F H U M M U S
Orly Peli-Bronshtein
During the years when Ariel and I attended culinary school together, back in the
early ’90s, the word “hummus” came up o
nly once. It was during French class:
“In French, the word for hummus is pois chiche,” the teacher said, instructing us
on how to say “chickpea,” which, in fact, is what “hummus” means in Arabic.
Someone laughed, said it rhymes with hashish, and that was more or less the
extent of the conversation. It wasn’t a part of the syllabus, nor was it an ingredient
that we used in the school’s kitchen. We didn’t even eat hummus outside of our
studies, although food was our entire world. Twenty-two years later, when Ariel
and I met with the designer Dan Alexander to dream, plan, and create a book
about hummus, it happened, of all places, in Paris.
It took me more than 20 years of cooking and writing about food to acknowledge
the fact that pita and hummus are my bread and butter. Rather, our bread and
butter. Made from the most basic raw ingredients the local terroir has to offer,
they are the cornerstone of the Mediterranean diet. In Hebrew, “hummus” refers
not only to the chickpeas, but also to the dip made from them, what is known
in Arabic as hummus bi tahine. As such, “hummus” can be used interchangeably
to describe both the beans and the dish (dip).
Chickpeas are not only delicious. They are right for us in so many ways, it is
almost as if they were designed in a lab. They are rich in protein – there are
nine grams for every 100 grams of chickpeas, compared to eight grams in 100
grams of milk, and six grams in the same amount of eggs. Chickpeas are also
full of vitamins (mainly B and folic acid), minerals (calcium, iron, magnesium
and potassium), and soluble fibers, which provide us with plenty of energy, and
keep us feeling full for longer. Simply put, hummus is one of the healthiest raw
ingredients out there.
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Jaffa
Hummus
What’s more, chickpeas are beloved by and suitable for people of all ages, of all
strengthens and regulates ovulation, and releases serotonin in the brain, the
faiths and religions, and of all dietary restrictions, whether they are omnivores,
hormone responsible for making us happy, healthy, and relaxed. The chickpea
vegetarians, or vegans. This versatile legume is gluten-free, and, as such, permitted
lifts our spirit and increases our sexual desire.
for people with celiac. Their low glycemic index makes them ideal for athletes
seeking slow-burning fuel, people with diabetes, and anyone looking to lose some
It would be an understatement to say that, thanks to the domestication of
weight. And, as chickpeas are usually stored dry or canned, they are available
Ariel Rosenthal, Orly Peli-Bronshtein, Dan Alexander Page 6
