3 tablespoons almond slivers
½ garlic clove, very thinly sliced
cooking liquid.
2 tablespoons pine nuts
3. Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat.
Olive oil
3 cups (750 grams) plain whole-milk yogurt
Add the almonds and pine nuts, and fry until
4. Place the chickpeas in a food processor fitted
2 tablespoons raw tahini
golden, about 3 minutes. Let cool.
with the steel blade and process until smooth,
2 garlic cloves, crushed
about 3 minutes. Add the tahini, lemon juice, and
Juice of ½ lemon
4. Place the chickpeas and their cooking liquid in
salt, and process to a smooth and fluffy cream, 3
3 cups (750 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for Salads
a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer.
minutes more. If the mixture is too thick, add 1
and Stews (pages 176-7), plus 1 cup (235
to 2 tablespoons of the chickpea cooking liquid to
milliliters) chickpea cooking liquid
5. Place the yogurt, tahini, garlic, and lemon juice in
achieve the desired consistency. Add the squid ink
Chopped mint leaves
a serving bowl, and mix well. Add salt to taste.
and process to a smooth, black paste.
Fold the chickpeas with their cooking liquid and
Tip
pita chips into the yogurt mixture. Season to taste.
5. Spread the hummus in a shallow bowl, sprinkle
For a heartier dish, transfer the mixture to a
with the chives, grated bottarga, and garlic slices.
13-by-9-inch (34-by-22 centimeter) baking dish
6. Sprinkle the mint, almonds, and pine nuts on top,
Drizzle with olive oil and serve.
and bake in an oven heated to 400ºF (200ºC)
and serve.
for 15 minutes.
354
355
Hummus
B E A N S F I T F O R A K I N G
Chickpeas nourish royals and commoners
Royal estates in Medieval Europe boasted lavish gardens, planted by the order
of Charlemagne’s Capitulare de Villis. This series of ordinances listed specific
plants required in each manor, with chickpeas noted as an important plant in
both kitchen and herb gardens, for culinary and medicinal purposes.
Centuries later, the Italian philosopher Umberto Eco singled out chickpeas as one
of the most important crops of the last millennium. In his essay entitled “How
Beans Saved Civilization,” Eco explains that cultivating all kinds of legumes,
including chickpeas, lentils, and favas, radically changed the face of Europe. Not
only did these provide a nourishing diet in times of historic hardship, they were
also a source for community empowerment, with people meeting at communal
ovens to bake their chickpea-filled casseroles.
Left:
Harvest of chickpeas.
Tacuinum Sanitatis (ca. 1445-1451),
the Latin translation of the eleventh-
century Arab medical treatise
Taqwīm as-Sihhah (The Maintenance
of Health) attributed to Ibn Butlān.
BnF, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais / Art
Resource, NY
357
Beirut
Hummus
F A T A Y E R C H I C K P E A A N D W I L D S P I N A C H P I E S
M A G H M O U R V E G E T A R I A N M O U S S A K A
It is impossible to ignore the aroma of these savory pies, which come stuffed with all sorts of fillings,
Maghmour, a Lebanese vegan moussaka, substitutes chickpeas for meat.
when at the market in Beirut. Fatayer are typically baked in a wood-fueled taboon, but home cooks
can make them on a pizza stone in an oven set to the highest temperature, just as you would a calzone.
Serves 4
1. Preheat the oven to 390°F (200°C) and line
a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Makes 14 pies
1. Prepare the dough: Place the flour, yeast, sugar,
2 large eggplants, cut into 2-inch
and water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
(5 centimeter) cubes
2. Place the eggplants in a large bowl and add 3
For the Dough
dough hook attachment, and mix for 1 to 2 minutes
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (75 milliliters) olive oil
tablespoons of the olive oil, salt, and pepper.
3½ cups (490 grams) all-purpose flour, sifted
on medium speed. Add the salt. When the dough
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Mix well. Arrange on the baking sheet in an even
1½ teaspoons (5 grams) active dry yeast
comes together, add the oil and knead on medium
1 large onion, chopped
layer and roast in the oven until golden, stirring
1 teaspoon sugar
speed for 3 to 4 minutes until a smooth, elastic
3 garlic cloves, crushed
once mid-roast, 25 to 30 minutes. Set aside.
1¹⁄₃ cups (320 milliliters) water
dough forms. Cover and let sit for 1½ hours,
1 green chile pepper, such as serrano, chopped
2 teaspoons salt
until the dough doubles in volume.
2½ pounds (1.1 kilograms) tomatoes, peeled and
3. Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil in
2 tablespoons olive oil
chopped (about 6 to 7 tomatoes)
a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion
2. Prepare the filling: Heat the oil in a large, shallow
1 tablespoon tomato paste
and sauté until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the
For the Filling
pan over medium heat. Add the onion and chile
1 teaspoon store-bought or homemade Baharat
garlic and chile pepper and cook for 1 minute.
¼ cup (60 milliliters) olive oil
pepper and sauté until lightly golden, about 4
Spice Mix (page 376)
Add the tomatoes and cook until some of the liquid
1 large onion, chopped
minutes. Remove from the heat, add the Swiss chard
1 tablespoon dried mint
reduces, about 3 minutes.
½ red or green chile pepper, such as fresno or
and the chickpeas, and mix well. The chard should
2 cups (500 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for Salads
serrano, chopped
wilt from the residual heat. Let cool before adding
and Stews (pages 176-7), plus 1 cup (240 milliliters)
4. Add the tomato paste, baharat, mint, eggplants, and
8 Swiss chard leaves, chopped, stems removed
the feta. Season with salt and pepper.
chickpea cooking liquid
chickpeas, and cook for 15 minutes. If it’s too dry,
1 cup (250 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for Salads
add enough chickpea cooking liquid to the pan to
and Stews (pages 176-7)
3. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C) and line a baking
Tip
maintain a saucy consistency. Season to taste.
7 ounces (200 grams) feta cheese, crumbled
tray with parchment paper.
For meat maghmour, add 10½ ounces (300 grams)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
ground beef to the sautéed onion and cook until
5. Serve hot or at room temperature.
4. Divide the dough into 14 equal balls. Roll a
&nbs
p; browned, about 5 minutes.
Olive oil, for brushing
dough ball on a lightly floured surface into a ��₅-inch
(5 millimeter) thick disk. Place a large spoonful of
the filling in the center and fold the disk inward on
3 sides to form a triangular parcel. Place on the
baking sheet and repeat with the remaining dough
and filling. Cover with a towel and let rest for
15 minutes.
5. Brush the pastries with olive oil and bake for 15
minutes, until the pies are golden and the bottom is
brown. Brush with more olive oil and serve.
358
359
Beirut
Hummus
S H U L B A T A B U L G U R P I L A F W I T H C H I C K P E A S
B A L I L A G A R L I C - C U M I N C H I C K P E A S
There are many variations of this hearty Arab dish. This vegetarian version is borrowed from the Druze
“Bali-la, bali-la!” This is the call that is heard when the sun sets and the fast is broken during
kitchen, and is particularly good served with yogurt.
the month of Ramadan. The seasoned chickpeas, known as “balila” in Lebanon and Syria,
are a common street food sold mostly in the evening.
Serves 4 to 6
1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.
When the oil is hot, add the onion and bell peppers
Serves 4
1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.
¼ cup (60 milliliters) olive oil
and sauté until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the
When the oil is hot, add the garlic and cook until
2 medium onions, chopped
garlic, chile pepper, grated tomatoes, tomato paste,
2 tablespoons olive oil
aromatic, less than a minute. Add the chickpeas
2 red bell peppers, chopped
mint, baharat, salt, and pepper, and mix well.
2 garlic cloves, crushed
and sauté, stirring continuously, for 1 to 2 minutes.
2 garlic cloves, chopped
Add the chickpeas and bulgur and mix well.
4 cups (1 kilogram) Cooked Chickpeas for Salads
Season with cumin and salt.
1 green chile pepper, such as serrano, chopped
and Stews (pages 176-7), plus 1 cup (240
3 tomatoes, grated on the large holes of a box
2. Pour in the stock or water, stir, and bring to a boil.
milliliters) chickpea cooking liquid
2. Divide the balila among 4 serving plates. Sprinkle
grater
Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until the
1 tablespoon ground cumin
the parsley and pine nuts on top, add a squeeze of
3 tablespoons tomato paste
liquid is absorbed and the bulgur is puffed up and
1 teaspoon salt
lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil, and serve.
1 teaspoon dried mint
aromatic, 25 to 30 minutes. Season to taste.
1 teaspoon store-bought or homemade Baharat
To Serve
Spice Mix (page 376)
3. Serve in bowls with a dollop of yogurt on top.
1 cup chopped parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
½ cup toasted pine nuts
1½ cups (375 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for Salads
1 lemon, quartered
and Stews (pages 176-7)
Olive oil
1½ cups (210 grams) coarse bulgur, rinsed
3 cups (720 milliliters) boiling stock or water
To Serve
Plain whole-milk yogurt
360
361
Beirut
Hummus
H U M M U S B E I R U T I
This is a traditional recipe with a twist – a bit of yogurt or sour cream adds a tart flavor and creamy
texture to the hummus.
Serves 4
1. Place the chickpeas and salt in a food processor
and purée until smooth, 3 minutes. Add the tahini,
2 cups (500 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for Hummus
lemon juice, yogurt or sour cream, and garlic and
(pages 176-7), chilled
process to a smooth paste, occasionally scraping
1 teaspoon salt
down the sides of the bowl with a spatula,
½ cup (120 grams) raw tahini
2 minutes more.
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons plain Greek yogurt or sour cream
2. With the food processor running, gradually pour
1 garlic clove, crushed
in the olive oil and process until fluffy, about
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more
2 to 3 tablespoons water
salt and lemon juice, if necessary. If the spread is
too thick, mix in 1 tablespoon of water at a time to
To Serve
achieve the desired consistency.
Toasted pine nuts
Chopped parsley
3. Using a spoon, spread the hummus on a serving
Pinch of paprika
dish. Sprinkle the toasted pine nuts, chopped
Pita Pockets (page 124)
parsley, and paprika on top.
Chopped Vegetable Salad (page 280)
4. Serve with fresh pita and chopped vegetable salad.
362
363
Beirut
364
365
Beirut
Hummus
366
367
Beirut
368
369
Hummus
F R I E D C H I C قشمد
K P E A S W I T H B A H A R A T · T H E O N L Y I M P O R T A N T
Q U E S T I O N T O A S K · H U M M U S H A S I T S M E M O R I E S
A T H O U S A N D – Y E A R – O L D H A N G O V E R C U R E · B U R G H O L B I D F I N E
C H I C K P E A , B U L G U R , A N D C A R R O T S T E W · H U M M U S B I L L A H M E H
H U M M U S W I T H B U T T E R E D L A M B
Damascus
F A L A F E L S H A M I G R E E N F A L A F E L P A T T I E S W I T H B A H A R A T S P I C E
F R I E D C H I C K P E A S A M B U S A S · Y A K H N I L A M B A N D C H I C K P E A S T E W
M A H S H I S I Y A M I Z U C C H I N I S T U F F E D W I T H R I C E A N D C H I C K P E A S
K I B B E H H E M O S T U F F E D S E M O L I N A D U M P L I N G S I N C H I C K P E A S O U P
T H E G O L D E N C H I C K P E A
קשמד
371
Damascus
Hummus
372
Damascus
Hummus
374
375
Damascus
Hummus
F R I E D C H I C K P E A S W I T H B A H A R A T
Baharat, a seasoning blend that means “spices” in Arabic, is the star of this popular snack.
Serves 4
1. Rinse chickpeas thoroughly. Place the chickpeas
in a bowl, add water to cover by at least 2 inches
2 cups (400 grams) dried chickpeas
(5 centimeters), and soak in the refrigerator for
½ teaspoon baking powder
12 hours.
3 tablespoons olive oil
Kosher salt
2. Drain the chickpeas. Spread in a single layer on a
1 teaspoon store-bought or homemade Baharat
clean towel. Place another clean towel on top and
Spice Mix (see below)
gently rub to remove the skin from the chickpeas.
Baharat Spice Mix
3. Place the peeled
chickpeas in a saucepan, add water
Combine the following ingredients until blended:
to cover by at least 2 inches (5 centimeters), and
¼ cup (25 grams) freshly ground black pepper,
bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 30
¼ cup (25 grams) paprika, 3 tablespoons ground
minutes. Add the baking powder and cook for 30
cumin, 2 tablespoons ground coriander,
to 45 minutes, until tender. Remove from the heat
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon, 2 tablespoons
and strain.
ground cloves, 1 tablespoon ground nutmeg,
1 tablespoon dried spearmint, and 1 teaspoon
4. Place the chickpeas in a single layer in a dry
ground cardamom. The spice mix will keep in a
skillet over medium heat, and toast until golden
tightly sealed jar for one month. Keep out of
brown, about 10 minutes, working in batches.
direct sunlight.
Alternatively, preheat the oven to 390°F (200°C),
spread chickpeas in a single layer on a baking sheet,
and bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes,
working in batches if necessary.
5. Add the olive oil and salt and cook for 5 minutes,
stirring continuously. If in the oven, carefully coat
the chickpeas with olive oil and salt, and bake for 8
minutes more.
6. Remove the pan from the heat, add the baharat, and
stir the chickpeas for 1 to 2 minutes, until coated. If
in the oven, remove the chickpeas, add the baharat,
and stir well to coat. Serve immediately, while the
chickpeas are hot and crisp, or at room temperature.
376
377
Damascus
Hummus
380
381
Hummus
T H E O N L Y I M P O R T A N T Q U E S T I O N
T O A S K
Farouk Mardam-Bey
In the Middle East, everyone has their own hummus recipe. Our hummus recipe
is no more authentic than any other. Nothing should stop you, the reader, from
changing it according to your taste, adding more (or less) tahini, lemon juice,
or garlic. Should you mix these ingredients together before adding them to the
hummus, or perhaps they should be added gradually, one after another? None
of this matters so much. The only important question to ask has to do with
the chickpeas: Should they be skinned before being puréed, or should they be
mashed just as they are? Two Lebanese writers, Nohad Boulus Guillaume and
Ibrahim Muzaner, prefer to remove the skin. The method used by both writers
Ariel Rosenthal, Orly Peli-Bronshtein, Dan Alexander Page 14
