of the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium
chunks
browned on all sides.
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 milliliters) olive oil
heat. Add the onion and sauté until golden, about
4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
8 minutes. Add the pine nuts and rice, and cook,
6 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
2. Return the onions to the pan, add the tomatoes
4 tablespoons pine nuts
stirring continuously, 2 to 3 minutes. Add salt
2 medium carrots, cut into 1- to 1½-inch (2- to
and garlic, and cook until aromatic, 2 minutes.
1 cup (200 grams) jasmine rice
and boiling water, cover, and cook until soft,
3-centimeter) cubes
Add the carrots, cumin, turmeric, coriander, salt,
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
10 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let cool.
2 teaspoons store-bought or homemade Baharat
pepper, and water, and mix well. Bring to a boil,
1 cup (240 milliliters) boiling water
Spice Mix (page 376)
using a spoon to skim the foam off the surface.
1 cup (250 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for Salads
2. Add the chickpeas, parsley, 1 teaspoon of the
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer until the
and Stews (pages 176-7)
baharat, cinnamon, and dried mint, if using,
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
meat is very soft, about 1 hour. If half of the water
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
to the rice mixture. Using your hands, combine
1 teaspoon ground coriander
evaporates, add more.
2 teaspoons store-bought or homemade Baharat
well. Set aside.
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Spice Mix (page 376)
8 cups (2 liters) water
3. Add the potatoes and cook until completely soft,
Pinch of ground cinnamon
3. Prepare the sauce: Place the water, tomato paste, the
3 large potatoes, cut into 1- to 1½-inch (2- to
about 45 minutes. Mix in the chickpeas. Season to
½ teaspoon dried mint (optional)
2 crushed tomatoes, garlic, paprika, salt, and pepper
3-centimeter) cubes
taste. Serve hot as a main course.
4 cups (1 liter) water
in a large bowl, and mix well. Season to taste.
1½ cups (375 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for Salads
¼ cup (60 milliliters) tomato paste
and Stews (pages 176-7)
4 tomatoes (2 thinly diced, 2 sliced)
4. Stuff the zucchinis with the filling, making sure to
4 garlic cloves, crushed
fill no more than ¾ of the way, so as to leave space
1 teaspoon paprika
for the rice to expand.
Freshly ground black pepper
12 medium zucchinis, hollowed out, walls ¹⁄₅-inch
5. Cover the bottom of a medium saucepan with the
(5 millimeters) thick
remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Arrange the
2 sliced tomatoes on the bottom of the pan in an
To Serve
even layer. Layer the stuffed zucchinis on top, and
Plain whole-milk yogurt
place an inverted plate on top to act as a weight.
Pour tomato sauce to cover zucchinis at ⅔ their
height. Add more water if necessary. Bring to a boil,
reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 1 to
1½ hours, until the vegetables are soft and the rice
is cooked through.
6. To serve, spoon some yogurt onto the plate and
place two stuffed zucchinis on top.
394
395
Damascus
Hummus
K I B B E H H E M O S T U F F E D S E M O L I N A D U M P L I N G S
I N C H I C K P E A S O U P
This dish pairs oversized, meat-stuffed semolina dumplings called kibbeh with a golden chickpea soup
seasoned with turmeric. Feel free to make the kibbeh smaller if you wish.
Makes 8 large dumplings
1. Prepare the filling: Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive
Seal by pinching the edges. Repeat with remaining
oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.
meatballs and dough discs, using bits of dough to
For the Meat Filling
Add onions and sauté until golden, 6 minutes.
patch any holes. Place the kibbeh on the baking
3 tablespoons olive oil
Transfer to a bowl using a slotted spoon and set
sheet and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2 medium onions, finely chopped
aside. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the
1²⁄₃ pounds (750 grams) ground beef, preferably
pan, add the beef, and cook over low heat until the
6. Prepare the soup: Heat the olive oil in a large
neck or short rib
juices evaporate, 20 minutes. Transfer to a sieve set
saucepan over medium heat. Sauté the onions,
2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
over the sink or a bowl and let cool while the
carrot, and celery until golden, 5 minutes. Mix
1 teaspoon store-bought or homemade Baharat
juices drain.
in the turmeric, salt, and pepper. Add the cooked
Spice Mix (page 376)
chickpeas and water, and bring to a boil.
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
2. Mix the meat, onions, tomatoes, baharat, paprika,
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Season to taste.
7. Add 4 kibbeh to the soup and return to a boil.
Divide the mixture into 8 equal portions, roll into
Reduce heat to low and simmer until the dumplings
For the Kibbeh Dough
balls, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
are firm, about 20 minutes. Remove and repeat
1½ cups (300 grams) fine bulgur
with the 4 remaining kibbeh.
1½ teaspoons salt
3. Prepare the dough: Place the bulgur in a large
¾ cup (150 grams) semolina
bowl, add salt and enough water to cover by at
8. Serve with cooked jasmine rice.
3½ ounces (100 grams) ground chicken breast
least 2 inches (5 centimeters). Soak for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare a greased baking sheet.
For the Soup
2 tablespoons olive oil
4. When the water is absorbed, add the semolina
2 medium onions, chopped
and the chicken. Knead for 2 to 3 minutes until
1 medium carrot, finely chopped
a flexible, smooth dough forms. If it’s sticky, add
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
some semolina. If it’s dry, add a little water.
1 teaspoon turmeric
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
5. Divide the dough into 16 equal portions. On a
3 cups (750 grams) Cooked Chickpeas for Salads
clean surface dusted with semolina, roll 8 pieces
and Stews (pages 176-7)
into 3-inch (8 centimeter) discs, and 8 into 4-inch
8 cups (2 liters) water
(10 centimeter) discs. Place a meatball in the center
of each small circle and cover with a large circle.
To Serve
Cooked jasmine rice
/> 396
397
Damascus
Hummus
In this popular eatery in Damascus,
sesame-coated rolls are emptied
at the center to make more room
398
for hummus and falafel filling.
399
Hummus
T H E G O L D E N C H I C K P E A
A precious surprise hides in a Ramadan meal
During Iftar, the evening meal in which Muslims break their fast during the
month of Ramadan, guests of Mehmed the Conqueror were served a pilaf made
with chickpeas. According to legend, one chickpea was made of pure gold. Like
the British tradition of finding a silver sixpence in a Christmas pudding, the
guest who discovered the golden chickpea kept it as their dis kirasi, a special gift
given during the holy month.
Left:
Banquet given by commander-in-
chief Lala Mustafa Pasha to the
Janissaries in Izmit, 5 April 1578.
Topkapi Palace Museum Library
401
C O N T R I B U T O R S
C O N T R I B U T O R S
W R I T E R S
I L L U S T R A T O R S A N D P H O T O G R A P H E R S
d a n a l e x a n d e r
j o u d i e k a l l a
Le Voile de l’Ange (A Veil of an Angel) with the
a n o n y m o u s
k a r i m m o s ta fa
International award-winning designer and
British-Palestinian chef, food consultant, menu
prestigious Prix Alain Bosquet, for the best
Photographer from Damascus, sharing his
Swedish-born photographer living in
thought leader, the founder and creative
developer, and cooking teacher from London.
translated book in France.
sharp eye for the city’s culture, while remaining
Beirut, working mainly with journalism and
director of Dan Alexander & Co., an
Her family is originally from Jaffa. She is the
93-5
anonymous for fear that the Syrian regime will
documentary photography.
innovation, design, and branding lab
author of the bestselling cookbooks Palestine on
frown on his participation in international
336-40, 342-4, 346-8, 365
headquartered in Paris. Dan collaborates with
a Plate and Baladi.
c l a u d i a r o d e n
collaborations.
opinion leaders and creatives worldwide,
115, Recipe: 117
World-leading researcher on Jewish cuisine, and
372-5, 377-81, 384, 398-9
e i l o n pa z
to intercept technology, philosophy, and
a renowned cultural anthropologist, originally
Photographer working in New York, whose work
design. His publication Seafoodpedia won the
from Cairo. A pioneer in highlighting how
m o h a m m e d a s a d
has been showcased by leading publications
a r i n a b u - h m i d k u r d i
prestigious Gourmand International Cookbook
Chef, owner of the El Abed Abu Hmid
food transforms from place to place and from
Palestinian photojournalist working out of Gaza.
worldwide. He is the founder of the popular
Award. He lives and works in Paris and in the
Hummus eatery in the ancient port of Acre.
people to people, Roden has authored dozens of
66-74, 78-9, 83, 85, 96-101
vinyl-collecting website Dust and Grooves.
Périgord region in the South of France.
Recipe: 314
cookbooks that capture the stories and traditions
106-14, 116, 121, 128, 135-7, 140-3, 202-14,
13-5
behind each recipe. She is the honored recipient
220, 229-30, 243, 247-57, 284-7, 290-8, 300-3,
f e l i p e r o m e r o b e lt r á n
of many prizes, including the James Beard
308-9, 315, 317, 320-33, 408
i t z i k l u z o n
Photographer based in Bogotá.
Foundation Book Award, and has served as a
n o f ata m n a - i s m a e e l
Israeli restaurateur, owner of Itzik Hagadol
234-5
Chef, winner of Israeli Master Chef TV show.
restaurant that specializes in Middle Eastern-
BBC cooking show presenter for many years.
s h a i p e r i
She is the artistic director of the Levantine food
style dishes.
Roden is now the patron of the London-based
Amateur photographer from Kiryat Ono.
j o s h b e r e r
festival A-Sham held annually in Haifa, dedicated
Recipe: 123
HIV charity The Food Chain.
Calligrapher and craftsman working out of
216
to educating on coexistence through food.
33-4, Recipes: 48, 52
Washington, D.C., focusing on Dari and Farsi
271-3
p h o t o e l i a
f a r o u k m a r d a m - b e y
languages.
Historian and Franco-Syrian Arab food
a r i e l r o s e n t h a l
80
Photo Elia is a landmark photo shop in
Israeli celebrity chef, founder and owner of the
Jerusalem’s Old City, established by the
y o s e f b a b a l l a h
researcher, the author and publisher of several
Chef, owner of the Alakawi hummus eatery in
books, including Traité du Pois Chiche (The
acclaimed restaurant Hakosem, one of Tel Aviv’s
legendary photographer Elia Kahvedjian, who
y a r o n b r e n e r
Kafr Qara. He is the son of a Jewish mother and
Treaty of Chickpeas), and La Cuisine de Ziryâb
main culinary landmarks, a must-see (and eat)
Photojournalist and food photographer
left a photographic legacy that documents the
a Muslim father from the mixed city of Acre.
(The Kitchen of Ziryab).
street-food restaurant. For over two decades,
working in Tel Aviv, and Hakosem’s in-house
history of the region since 1924.
Recipes: 312-3
383, Recipe: 390
he has been serving thousands of people every
photographer for over a decade.
217
day, with chickpeas as a key ingredient in all
12, 18-25, 42, 57, 146-9, 152, 155-6, 158-61,
of his dishes. Putting his heart on a platter,
av i s . r av i t z k i
m o h a m m a d o r fa l i
174-85, 187, 189-91, 193-4, 196-99, 218, 222,
d r . o n b a r a k
Ariel’s Hakosem serves as an all-encompassing
Israeli-born French artist and truffle farmer,
Senior Lecturer in History at the Department
Syrian chef and restaurateur specializing in
236, 260-70, 274, 278, 282-3, 299, 310-1, 352
experience of the senses, a culinary hotspot
working out of the Périgord region in the South
of Middle Eastern and African History at Tel
Aleppian and contemporary Arabic cuisine,
frequented by celebrities and Michelin-star chefs.
of France.
Aviv University. He is a historian of the modern
and the head of Culinary Content at Discovery
c h a r l e s c o n s ta n t i n e
167-70, Recipes: 176-90
10-1
Middle East, specializing in the introduction
Network’s Fatafeat TV in Dubai.
Lebanese-born photographer, living in Paris.
of science and technology into non-Western
385-7, Recipe: 391
341, 363-4, 366-7
h i n d ta h b o u b
n i m r o d s au n d e r s
settings. He is also the author of several books,
Palestinian chef living and working in Paris, the
Food and nature photographer and photography
including On Time: Technology and Temporality
d r . y a h y a d i w e r , m d
o r ly p e l i - b r o n s h t e i n
owner of Bandora catering service. Her family is
teacher, working out of Givatayim.
in Modern Egypt.
Culinary expert and chef. She was the chief
Medical doctor and photographer from
originally fron Hebron.
104-5, 119, 125-7, 134
43-6
gastronomic editor for Israel’s leading magazine
Alexandria. His photos have been showcased by
231, Recipes: 239, 245
Al HaShulchan (Hebrew for On the Table).
both Egyptian and global contemporary art and
cultural institutes.
b r a n d o n tau s z i k
p r o f. l i o r a g v i o n
Orly has released a long line of cookbooks in
s a m i ta m i m i
Photographer and filmmaker based in
Senior Lecturer in Sociology at the Kibbutzim
Hebrew, and collaborated as a deputy writer
28-9, 30-2, 35-9, 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 58-63
Palestinian chef, co-owner of London’s
California.
College of Education in Tel Aviv, and the
in international publications by Janna Gur,
Ottolenghi and Nopi restaurants, and co-author
345, 368-9
Department of Clinical Nutrition at the Hebrew
including The Book of New Israeli Food and
d av i d l o f t u s
of the bestselling cookbook Jerusalem.
University of Jerusalem. She is the author of the
Fresh Flavors from Israel.
Award-winning, influential, internationally
221, Recipe: 244
book Beyond Hummus and Falafel: Social and
129-33, Recipes: All the recipes in this book are
acclaimed food photographer based in Britain,
Cultural Aspects of Palestinian Food in Israel.
by Orly Peli-Bronshtein, unless stated otherwise.
with over two decades of cookbook photography
m o u s a taw f i q
225-8
for some of the world’s leading chefs.
Palestinian journalist and researcher from Gaza
166, 172-3
a n n a - m a r i e r av i t z k i
living in Paris.
k a r i m h a i d a r
Philosopher, poet, and artist living and
Ariel Rosenthal, Orly Peli-Bronshtein, Dan Alexander Page 16