Kingdoms of Experience

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Kingdoms of Experience Page 32

by Andrew Greig


  All the other problems which arose were of minor importance, such as the very frequent laryngitis and bronchitis. Some tooth fillings fell out and were replaced temporarily. The Expedition leader suffered an abscess under a wisdom tooth, which I treated with an analgesic and a course of antibiotics, and fortunately it subsided. Some diarrhoea and travel sickness occurred, and the beginning of the panaris of a finger. The broken wrist of the injured Basque climber was given a temporary cast.

  On systematic examination we found some results of old knee injuries.

  What we were laughing about …

  – Drink and piss to save your life.

  – One night without a pee means danger.

  – Racing at high altitude means running into trouble.

  Conclusion

  There is only one failure in the mountains: death.

  Dr Urs Wiget

  We would like to warmly thank the following for their generously donated products:

  Food

  W. Jordan (Cereals) Ltd Cadbury Typhoo Ltd

  Mattesons Meats Ltd John J. Lees plc

  Swissco Ltd Fox’s Biscuits Ltd

  J. W. Thornton Ltd Shaklee (UK) Ltd

  Daniel Quiggin & Son Springlow Sales Ltd

  Farley Health Products Ltd Raven Leisure Products Ltd

  Ski & Climb International St Ivel Ltd

  C.P.C. (UK) Ltd Charles Mackinlay & Co Ltd

  Sanctuary Mountain Sports Ltd Brooke Bond Oxo Ltd

  George Payne & Co Ltd Lucy Foods

  UB Biscuits Ltd Derwent Valley Foods Ltd

  Weetabix Ltd Halls Brothers (Whitefield) Ltd

  Del Monte Foods Ltd Twinings

  John West Food Ltd The London Herb & Spice

  Rowntree Mackintosh plc Company

  Paterson-Jenks plc The Rock

  James Robertson & Sons Chivers-Hartley

  Thomas Tunnock Ltd John F. Renshaw & Co Ltd

  Joseph Walker Ltd Romix Foods Ltd

  Tate & Lyle Ltd Callard & Bowser Group

  RHM Foods Ltd The Kenco Coffee Co Ltd

  Shepherdboy Ltd Trebor Ltd

  John Smith & Sons Ltd Carshalton Confectionery

  Cadbury-Schweppes Ltd W. A. Baxter & Sons Ltd

  Gear

  Epigas Bowater Drums Ltd

  Firmin Ltd Stephens Plastics Ltd

  Life Support Engineering Ltd Dale Agency Co

  The Bristol Wire Rope Co Ltd Reed Corrugated Cases Ltd

  Index: Kingdoms of Experience

  Abuse Training, Mal Duff theory of, 1

  acclimatization, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

  Advance Base Camp, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 15, 16

  Allan, Sandy, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68

  Allen, Rick, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35

  Baltistan, 1, 2

  Barton, Anna, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Barton, Bob, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39

  Base Camp, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

  Basque expedition, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 death of Juan-Jo, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  delays in Lhasa, 1

  members of, 1, 2

  party with, 1, 2

  Bible, Jack’s, 1, 2

  Boardman, Peter, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12

  Bonington, Chris, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26

  Boy Racers, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13

  Bricknell, David, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26

  Bricknell, Ilush, 1, 2

  Brindle, Tony, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32

  Broad Peak, 1

  Buddhism, 1, 2

  Camp 1 (CB’s), 2, 3, 4, 5

  Camp 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

  Camp 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19

  Camp 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14

  Changtse, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Chengdu, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8

  Chernenko, 1

  China, 1

  Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA), 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9

  Cho Oyu, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Clachaig Inn, Glencoe, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Clifford, Dr Adrian, 1, 2,

  including ‘Dr Aide’s Go Faster Pill’, 1

  Cowboy, hats, 1; Glenmore, 2

  Dailey, Anne, 1

  Dailey, Terry, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19

  Dalai Lama, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  ‘Democratic Rebirth’, 1

  Denman, Earl, 1, 2

  Diemberger, Kurt, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25

  Duck, Donald, 1

  Duff, Liz, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33

  Duff, Mal, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75

  Ecclesiastes, 1

  Egg, 1,000 year old, 1, 2

  Everest, Mount, see also North East Ridge first sight of, 1

  East Ridge, 1

  Hornbeim Couloir, 1

  Kangshung Face, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17

  North Col, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13

  South Col, 1, 2, 3, 4

  South-West Face, 1, 2, 3

  Summit, 1, 2

  traverse of, 1, 2, 3

  West Ridge, 1, 2

  Yellow Band, 1, 2

  Fear, varieties of, 1

  Fyffe, Allen, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38

  Fyffe, Eileen, 1

  Gangapurna, 1, 2

  Glencoe, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Glenmore Lodge Outdoor Centre, 1, 2

  Habeler, Peter, 1

  Haston, Dougal, 1, 2, 3, 4

  hippies, bunch of old, 1 musical tastes of, 1

  Hoey, Marty, 1

  Hunt, Lord, 1

  Irvine, Andrew, 1, 2, 3

  Jack or Yan, Chinese interpreter, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14

  Jo-Kang temple, 1

  Kalanka, 1, 2

  Kanchenjunga, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Karma valley, 1, 2, 3

  Karta, 1, 2

  Kathmundu, 1, 2

  Kekus, Nick, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24

  Kellas, Dr A. M., 1

  Lewis, Danny, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12

  Lhasa, 1, 2 bazaar, 1, 2

  delay, 1

  girls, 1

  leaving of, 1, 2

  party, 1

  Luo, liaison officer, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15

  MacKinlay’s whisky, 1

  Maclaren, Malcolm, 1

  Mallory, George, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Makalu, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  man who wasn’t there, 1

  media, problems of dealing with, 1, 2

  Men On Ice, 1

  Messner, Rheinhold, 1, 2

  monasteries, destruction of 1, 2 rebuilding of, 1, 2;

  Tashi Lumpo, 1

  monsoon, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11

  Mrs Davies’ Hotel, Rawalp
indi, 1, 2, 3

  Mustagh Tower, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18

  Nisbet, Andy, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33

  North East Ridge (‘the Unclimbed Ridge’), 1 Ballad of, 1, 2, 3, 4

  description of, 1, 2, 3

  evacuation of, 1, 2

  history of, 1, 2

  problems of camps on, 1

  First Pinnacle, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23

  Second Pinnacle, 1, 2

  Final Pinnacle, 1

  First Rock Buttress, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13

  Second Rock Buttress, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15

  Third Rock Buttress, 1, 2,

  Norton, Col. E. F., 1, 2, 3

  Norwegian Everest Expedition, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6

  Nuptse West Ridge expedition, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Odell, Ν. Ε., 1, 2

  oedema, cerebral, 1, 2, 3, 4 ; pulmonary, 1, 2, 3

  oxygen, use of 1 limited, 1, 2, 3

  ascents of Everest without, 1, 2, 3

  Panchen Lama, 1, 2

  Patey, Tom, 1

  pee bottle, gentle art of using, 1

  Peking, 1, 2, 3, 4

  Pilkington Brothers plc, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

  Pilkington, Sir Anthony & Lady, 1

  Pink Rabbit, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Potala, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  Pumori, 1

  Raphu La, 1, 2, 3,, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

  Rawalpindi, 1, 2, 3

  Red Guards, 1, 2

  Renshaw, Dick, 1, 2

  Rongbuk monastery 1 nunnery 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

  glacier, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7

  valley 1, 2, 3

  Scott, Doug, 1, 2

  Shigatse, 1

  Shipton, Eric, 1, 2

  Shishipangma, Austrian ascent of, 1

  Skardu, 1

  snowblindness, 1, 2, 3

  Squibb, Sarah, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11

  stoves, problems buying, 1, 2 problems with, 1, 2

  Sultans of Pain, 1, 2, 3

  Tasker, Joe, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13

  The Macallan, 1, 2, 3

  Tibet, 1 et seq.

  Tilman, Bill, 1, 2, 3

  Tinker, Jon, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49

  trombone, uses of, 1

  Tsang Po river, 1, 2

  Tullis, Julie, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27

  Unsoeld, Willi, 1

  Voytek, 1, 2

  Wall, the Great, 1

  Watts, Chris, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24

  Watts, Sonja, 1, 2, 3

  Whillans, Don, 1

  Wiget, Madeleine, 1, 2

  Wiget, Urs, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24

  Wilson, Maurice, 1, 2

  Wood, David, 1

  Xegar, 1, 2, 3

  yaks, temperament, 1 herders, arrival of, 1, 2

  yeti, prints, 1

  BY THE SAME AUTHOR

  Poetry

  MEN ON ICE

  A FLAME IN YOUR HEART (with Kathleen Jamie)

  THE ORDER OF THE DAY

  WESTERN SWING

  INTO YOU

  Mountaineering

  SUMMIT FEVER

  KINGDOMS OF EXPERIENCE

  Novels

  ELECTRIC BRAE

  THE RETURN OF JOHN MACNAB

  WHEN THEY LAY BARE

  THAT SUMMER

  Copyright

  First published in paperback in Great Britain in 1999 by

  Canongate Books Ltd, 14 High Street,

  Edinburgh, EH1 1TE

  This digital edition first published in 2009

  by Canongate Books

  First published in hardback in 1986 by Century Hutchinson Ltd

  Copyright © Andrew Greig, 1986, 1999

  Introduction copyright © Chris Bonnington, 1999w

  British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

  A catalogue record for this book is available

  on request from the British Library

  ISBN 978 1 84767 740 2

  www.canongate.tv

 

 

 


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