True Summit

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True Summit Page 24

by David Roberts


  summit photos taken by, 18, 21, 136, 173, 180, 215, 216, 217–20

  surviving members of, 22, 100, 187

  weather conditions and, 13–14, 15, 18, 19, 20, 47, 74, 80, 81, 91, 93, 97, 103, 105, 107, 111, 115, 122

  wives’ pensions and, 43

  Annecy, 60, 61, 62

  “Apes or Ballerinas?” (Patey), 149–50

  Apprenti Montagnard, L’ (Rébuffat), 39, 42

  Ascent, 24

  Asselin, Jean-Michel, 186, 217

  Aubert, Francis, 193–94, 196, 203, 210

  Auriol, Vincent, 136

  Austrian mountain climbers, 17, 31

  Autre Annapurna, L’ (Herzog), 22, 83–85, 121, 133, 135, 136, 140–41, 152, 159, 171, 189–90

  Christian imagery used in, 124, 125–26, 139

  discrepancies between Annapurna and, 85, 102–4, 108–9, 112–15, 117, 124, 125, 185

  as primary source on Herzog’s background, 81–82

  avalanches, 14, 88–89, 110, 116, 197

  Herzog and two Sherpas caught in, 20, 116–17, 178, 192

  Azéma, M. A., 67

  babotsh, 109

  Ballu, Yves, 26, 32, 33, 41, 73, 76, 152, 153, 179, 180, 182, 206, 217

  Barthe, Patrick, 181

  Bataillon de Chasseurs Alpins (BCA), 204

  Bates, Bob, 40

  Batkin, Jacques, 200

  Bauer, Paul, 23

  Beckey, Fred, 198

  Belgian Congo, 162–63

  Berge der Welt, 216

  Bernd, Ed, 201–2

  biscantin, 60

  Blanc, Mont, 34, 46, 61, 82, 83, 114, 147, 154, 162

  boots, 96, 119–20, 176–77

  Boston Museum of Science, 201

  bottled oxygen, 96–97, 120

  Boulder, Colo., 22

  Brazil, 56, 208

  British mountain climbers, 16, 17, 119–20, 148–49, 150, 216

  “Brotherhood of the Rope, The” (Rébuffat), 38, 40, 66

  Brown, Joe, 149

  Bruce, Charles, 29

  Buffet, Charlie, 216–17

  Buhl, Hermann, 38, 146, 222

  cacolet, 122

  CAF, see Club Alpin Français

  Calanques, 33, 42

  California, 64

  Canada, 63, 193

  Cannon cliff, 67

  Carnets du Vertige (Lachenal), 80, 87–88, 91, 111–12, 118

  “Commentaries” section of, 173–78, 213, 221–22, 223–24, 225

  as construct, 109

  expurgating of Lachenal’s writing for first edition of, 25, 43, 49–51, 52–53, 73, 123, 165–67, 172–74, 178, 182, 186, 224

  return from Annapurna in, 121–22, 123, 127–28, 130, 132

  sources of post-1950 sections of, 164

  summit climb of Herzog and Lachenal in, 212, 213, 214–16, 219, 223–24, 225

  unexpurgated edition of, 26, 53, 73, 74, 76–77, 86, 101, 120, 141, 165, 178–79, 181, 217

  Cassin, Ricardo, 31, 37, 56, 65, 198–99

  Cenotaph Corner, 149

  Chabert, Pierre, 181

  Chacraraju, 65, 195, 197

  Chacraraju East, 196, 198

  Chamonix, 15, 22, 24, 25, 42, 51, 57, 58, 59, 61, 62, 65, 82, 109, 121, 123–24, 128, 146, 150, 158, 160, 167–68, 169, 178, 188, 189, 195, 203, 208, 209, 217, 218, 219

  as birthplace of mountaineering, 34

  guides and, 34–35

  Herzog as mayor of, 140

  Charlet, Armand, 28, 85–86

  Chomolonzo, 144, 195

  Cima Grande, 37, 49

  Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, 142

  class bias, 30

  Climbing, 181

  Club Alpin Français (CAF), 25, 34, 42, 123, 218

  Himalayan Committee of, 29, 30, 31, 32, 46, 85, 138, 180, 182

  Coast Range, 63

  Col du Caïman, 36, 58, 83, 197

  Col de Peuterey, 83

  Col des Montets, 163

  Collège des Praz, 51

  Colorado Outward Bound School, 40

  Colorado River, 155

  Colorado Rockies, 23, 38–39, 40, 63, 67

  Comité de l’Himalaya, see Himalayan Committee

  Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix, 203

  Lachenal in, 65, 159–60

  Rébuffat in, 34, 36, 156

  Terray in, 60

  Compagnie Stéphane, 54, 59, 205

  “connaissance devenue conscience,” 141

  Conquest of Fitzroy, The (Azéma), 67–68

  Conquistadors of the Useless (Terray), 64–65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70–71, 72, 73, 74–75, 80–81, 82–83, 84, 88–89, 90–92, 179, 188, 192–94, 202, 207, 210, 215

  Couzy as portrayed in, 142, 143, 144, 145

  descent of Annapurna in, 97, 98, 99, 103, 105, 111, 113–14

  Lachenal as portrayed in, 162, 170–71, 191

  manuscript of, 208–9

  as partial fiction, 109

  publication of, 197

  style of, 197–98

  Terray’s authorship of, 206, 208–9

  Contamine, André, 86, 163–64, 165, 167

  Contamines, 65

  Continental Divide, 23

  Coquoz (Swiss alpinist), 162, 163

  cordée, 83, 92, 113

  definition of, 59, 66

  partnership of Lachenal and Terray as, 66, 68, 73, 74, 78, 170, 189

  summit climb of Herzog and Lachenal as, 225

  Cordillera Blanca, 196

  Cordillera Vilcabamba, 196

  Cornuau, Philippe, 164, 167, 172, 182, 219

  Cossé-Brissac, Marie-Pierre de, 85

  Coupé, Serge, 205

  Couttet, James, 168

  Couttet, Mauricette, 160, 164–65

  Couzy, Jean, 49, 71, 72, 90, 95–96, 97, 108, 114, 115–16, 117, 121, 130, 133, 142–46, 197, 210, 219

  Annapurna role of, 78–79, 142

  death of, 144–45, 193

  mountain climbing experience and ability of, 142–43

  post-Annapurna climbing career of, 16, 65, 78, 143–44, 193, 195

  Couzy, Lise, 79, 143, 145–46

  crampons, 120

  Creagh Dhu, 148–49

  Croix de Guerre, 84

  Dambush Khola, 47, 53

  Dauphiné Libéré, 181

  débandade, 174

  Deborah, Mount, 67, 188, 198, 200, 201

  Deck, Claude, 182

  de Gaulle, Charles, 22, 84, 100, 140, 180, 210

  dehydration, 120

  Delhi, 129, 131–32, 173

  Dent Gérard, 57, 58

  Devies, Lucien, 30–33, 43, 46, 54, 131, 135, 137–38, 147, 181, 182, 185

  as chief of Club Alpin Français, 29

  in expurgating of Carnets, 25, 53, 123, 165, 166, 172–74, 186, 224

  oath of obedience demanded by, 31–33

  official positions held by, 32

  Rébuffat on, 33

  Dexedrine, 120

  Dhaulagiri, 68, 70, 71, 72, 174, 176

  first ascent of, 53

  height of, 46

  reconnoitering of, 46–48, 53–54, 68–69

  Dimanche 8, 180–81

  Dolomites, 31, 37, 142

  D’Ormesson, Jean, 185

  Droites, 167

  drugs, 120–21, 122, 123, 125, 132, 175

  Dufour litter, 121–22

  Ecole des Hautes Etudes Commerciales, 82

  Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme, 180, 182

  Ecrins, 34

  Editions Guérin, 178–79

  Eiger, 31, 38, 40, 66, 68, 142, 146, 190, 197, 198, 210

  Eiselin, Max, 53

  Elbert, Mount, 38

  Elk Range, 40

  “enchanted garden,” 37, 41, 83, 147

  Entre Terre et Ciel (Rébuffat), 41, 147, 148

  Equipe, L’, 140, 142, 181

  Etoiles et Tempêtes, see Starlight and Storm

  Everest, Mount, 16, 23, 29, 45, 96, 115, 119, 120, 159, 217, 223

  Faucigny, Le, 185

  Fédération Française
de la Montagne (FFM), 32, 181, 193, 219

  Figaro, Le, 127, 181, 185, 186

  Finch, George, 120

  First on the Rope (Frison-Roche), 35

  Fischer, Scott, 223

  Fitzroy, 65, 67–68, 194, 196, 198, 199, 220

  Flatirons, 63

  Foca camera, 116, 137, 218

  Fontainebleau, 203

  footgear, 96, 119–20, 176–77

  Forces Motrices de Chancy-Pougny, 140

  Fourès, Leonce, 219–20

  Foutharkey, 187

  France, 29, 35, 133

  Francillon, Claude, 179, 187

  Franco, Jean, 52

  French mountain climbers, 16–17, 30–31, 52, 78, 150, 216

  Frendo, Edouard, 56

  Freney Pillar, 154

  Fresnay Glacier, 197

  Frison-Roche, Roger, 35

  Frost, Robert, 105

  frostbite, 87, 110, 116, 159

  equipment and, 96–97, 119–20

  of Herzog, 15, 19, 21, 97, 100, 101–2, 104, 116, 117, 119, 121, 213, 222, 223

  of Lachenal, 15, 21, 99, 100, 103, 104–5, 116, 119, 121, 123, 127, 213, 222, 223

  novocaine as treatment for, 21, 121

  of Sherpas, 96

  whipping as treatment for, 19, 100

  funeral rites, 49–50, 52

  Gamper, Elisabeth, 85

  gangrene, 132

  Gasherbrum I, 16, 32, 216

  Gaston Rébuffat: Une Vie pour la Montagne (Ballu), 26, 32, 33, 41, 73, 76, 101, 141, 153, 179, 180, 217

  Gaullists, 30, 54

  Gaussot, Phillippe, 181

  George, Bernard, 130, 187, 221

  German mountain climbers, 16, 17, 31, 216

  Germany, Nazi, 30, 35

  Gorakhpur, 129, 130

  Grade V pitches, 74

  Grandes Aventures de l’Himalaya, Les (Herzog), 81, 152–53

  Grandes Jorasses, 31, 37, 51–52, 55–56

  see also Walker Spur

  Great Britain, 29, 141

  see also British mountain climbers

  Grenoble, 56, 59, 206, 207

  Grépon, 29, 58, 61, 72

  Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM), 32

  Guérin, Michel, 24, 25, 27, 41, 52, 86, 174, 187, 188, 204, 205, 208–9, 210–11, 218, 219

  unexpurgated edition of Carnets published by, 26, 101, 141, 165, 178–79, 181, 217

  guides, 58, 61, 106

  amateur climbers vs., 29–30, 82

  Chamonix and, 34–35

  Lachenal on, 62

  see also Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix

  “Guido, the sardine tin!,” 67–68, 194

  Gurkha Right Hand, 131

  Gurkhas, 16, 46, 131

  Hale, Matt, 201

  Hall, Rob, 223

  Harrer, Heinrich, 31, 198

  Harvard Mountaineering Club (HMC), 63

  Hayes Range, 67

  Heckmair, Andreas, 190

  Heimermann, Benoît, 140, 142, 185, 186, 187

  Herzog, Gérard, 25, 43, 49, 53, 83, 123, 164, 165, 166, 172, 174, 178, 182, 187, 224

  Herzog, Maurice, 71, 72, 77, 81–86, 135–42, 147, 164, 165–66, 175, 178, 179, 188, 193, 195, 206

  amputations of, 21, 123–24, 125, 126, 128–30, 133–34

  background of, 81–82

  camera of, 116, 137, 218

  character of, 81–82, 101, 209–10

  chosen as expedition leader, 28–30, 82–83, 85

  corporate position of, 30, 82, 140

  in decision to attempt Annapurna, 68–69, 173

  in descent from summit, 19–21, 97–100, 101–18

  differing accounts of descent given by, 100–118

  exclusive rights to expedition story held by, 25, 43, 135

  in expurgating Carnets, 25, 53, 165–66, 172–74, 186

  in failed Northwest Spur attempt, 74–76

  frostbitten feet and hands of, 15, 19, 21, 97, 100, 101–2, 104, 116, 117, 119, 121, 213, 222, 223

  as GHM secretary, 32

  gloves lost by, 19, 101–2, 104, 121, 223

  ice axe of, 124

  identification with Christ by, 124, 125–26, 139, 185

  leadership qualities of, 26, 30, 80–81, 82–83, 89, 177, 209, 224

  Legion of Honor awarded to, 159

  Lise Couzy on, 79

  marriages and children of, 85

  mountain climbing experience and ability of, 16, 28, 80, 82–83, 89, 177

  mystical character of, 126

  “new life” of, 125–26, 133

  on oath of obedience, 32, 33

  physical appearance of, 81, 101

  public career of, 22, 140–41

  Rébuffat’s bitterness toward, 76

  reputation of, 22, 26, 137–38, 139–40, 141, 185, 192

  in response to revisionist criticisms, 101, 182–85, 186–87, 216–17

  in return from Annapurna, 21, 119–34

  Roberts’s 1999 interview with, 100–103, 121, 126, 139, 141–42

  on Sherpas, 46

  and summit climb of Lachenal, 13–16, 17–19, 26, 92–94, 95–97, 212–25

  summit photos of, 18, 21, 136, 173, 180, 215, 216, 217–20

  trance-like state of mind of, 15, 19, 21, 107, 110, 121, 213, 214, 223

  as tuteur to Lachenal family, 25, 171–72, 189, 210

  World War II experience of, 30, 84, 184

  writings of, 81; see also Annapurna; Autre Annapurna, L’

  High, 181

  Hillary, Sir Edmund, 45, 141, 159, 187

  Himalaya, 30, 65, 119, 143, 196, 202

  alienness of, 175–76

  classic expedition narratives about, 23

  first man to climb all 8,000–meter peaks of, 223

  history of climbing expeditions in, 16, 45–46

  reconnoitering in, 45–46

  world’s highest mountains located in, 16

  Himalayan Committee, 29, 30, 31, 32, 46, 85, 138, 180, 182

  Hitler, Adolf, 31

  Horay, Pierre, 167

  Horizons Gagnés, Les (Rébuffat), 147, 157

  Hôtel des Alpes, 42

  Houston, Charley, 40

  Huantsan, 195

  Hunt, Sir John, 23

  Hunter, Mount, 198

  Huntington, Mount, 199, 201–2, 210

  Ichac, Marcel, 47, 81, 103, 112, 117, 127, 128, 129, 130, 131

  film shot on Annapurna by, 136–37, 180

  previous Himalayan climbing experience of, 16, 32, 46

  Rébuffat searched for film by, 179, 219

  India, 16, 29, 43, 45, 80

  Indian Survey maps, 46–47, 53, 70

  Irvine, Andrew, 29, 115

  Italian mountain climbers, 17, 31

  Italy, 65

  Jannu, 65, 196, 198

  “jardin féerique,” see “enchanted garden”

  Jensen, Don, 64, 65, 66–67, 188, 190, 200–202

  Jeunesse et Montagne (JM) (Youth and Mountains), 35–37, 54, 58, 65

  Kali Gandaki, 71

  Kanchenjunga, 16, 149, 196

  Kathmandu, 130, 179

  Kennedy, John F., 141

  Kléber-Colombes, 30, 82, 131, 140, 218, 219, 220

  kletterschuhe, 39

  Kor, Layton, 40

  Kravchenko, Irène, 135–36

  K2, 16, 40, 45, 162

  K2: The Savage Mountain (Bates and Houston), 40

  Kurz, Marcel, 216

  Lachenal, Adèle, 43, 61–62, 65, 123, 128, 133, 160, 161, 162, 164, 169, 171

  Lachenal, Arlette, 188, 190

  Lachenal, Jean-Claude, 25, 26, 159, 160, 165–66, 171, 178–79, 187, 188–90, 219

  Lachenal, Louis “Biscante,” 22, 23, 27, 47–48, 60–62, 72, 80, 85, 90, 142, 145, 148, 158–91, 193, 195, 197, 198, 209, 210

  amputations of, 21, 125, 128–30, 132–33, 158

  background of, 60

  in Belgian Congo, 162–63

  car driving of, 160–62, 170–71

  chalet of, 188–89

  deat
h of, 25, 168–70

  decision not to turn back on summit climb of, 15, 222–25

  in descent from summit, 19–21, 98–100, 101–18, 174

  diary and memoir of, see Carnets du Vertige

  diary manuscript of, 190–91

  disenchantment of, 43, 49, 77

  in failed Northwest Spur attempt, 73–74, 75, 77

  frostbitten feet of, 15, 21, 99, 100, 103, 104–5, 116, 119, 121, 123, 127, 213, 222, 223

  as guide, 30, 65, 82

  Herzog’s portrayal of, 77–78, 86, 104, 113–14, 115, 160, 162–63, 169–70, 177, 186–87, 221–22

  honesty of, 218

  impatience of, 48, 60, 65, 78, 109, 123, 129, 177

  in Jeunesse et Montagne, 65

  Legion of Honor awarded to, 159

  mountain climbing experience and ability of, 16–17, 18, 28, 54, 55, 61, 62, 65, 66, 68, 72, 142, 170

  oath of obedience taken by, 32, 33

  origin of nickname of, 60

  pacifism of, 54, 65

  physical appearance of, 61

  post-Annapurna climbing of, 141, 158–60, 162–63, 165–69

  post-Annapurna mental state of, 160, 170–71

  probationary status of on Annapurna expedition, 86

  Rébuffat’s relationship with, 34, 49, 51–52

  return from Annapurna of, 21, 119–34, 158

  risk as addiction of, 60

  sacrifice made by, 224–25

  snowblindness of, 117

  summit climb of Herzog and, 13–16, 17–19, 26, 92–94, 95, 97, 212–25

  summit photos and, 136, 173, 180, 218–20

  Terray’s relationship with, 48, 54–56, 58, 65, 68, 72, 73–74, 78, 170, 189, 190–91

  women and, 164–65

  written out of Annapurna story, 137, 152, 185

  Lambert, Raymond, 15, 159, 175

  Legion of Honor, 126, 159, 181, 210

  Les Houches, 59, 84

  Lété forest, 124–27

  Libération, 181, 185, 216

  Lindbergh, Anne Morrow, 85

  Logan, Mount, 63

  Longs Peak, 23, 63

  Lyon, 81

  McKinley, Mount, 64, 148, 188, 199, 201

  maggots, 131, 134

  Magnone, Guido, 67–68, 194

  Makalu, 65, 78, 143, 144, 145, 176, 193, 195, 198, 200, 205

  Mallory, George Leigh, 29, 115, 120

  Malraux, André, 141

  Man Without a Head, The, 128

  Maroon Bells, 39

  Marseille, 33, 35, 59, 126

  Marseille, Archbishop of, 139

  Martinetti, Marc, 203

  Matterhorn, 29, 37, 164

  Maxiton, 120–21

  Mazeaud, Pierre, 185

  Messner, Reinhold, 141, 223

  Michel, Georges, 51–52

  Miristi Khola, 14, 17, 71, 72, 78, 122

  Moine, 55

  Monde, Le, 179, 180, 181, 182–85, 187, 217, 218

  monsoon, 14, 18, 53, 80, 90, 92, 105, 122

  Montagne et Alpinisme, La, 169–70, 182, 201

 

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