Season the tuna on both sides with salt and pepper and coat with the remaining olive oil. Grill for 3 to 4 minutes, turning once halfway through the cooking. Transfer to a baking sheet.
Cut the rolls or divide the bread to make sandwiches. Spread the inside surface of each piece with the olive paste. On the bottom slice of bread or roll, place a piece of tuna and add a lettuce leaf, a few slices of red and green bell pepper, and a slice of tomato. Season with salt and pepper. Add a few slices of egg to each sandwich. Cover with the top of the roll and gently press on the sandwich with just enough pressure to blend the ingredients and let any residual liquid get absorbed by the bread.
Chef’s Tip: You can also use good-quality tuna in olive oil right out of the can or jar. It’s fine and actually true to the original.
Wine Recommendation: A white from Piedmont, Roero Arneis from Bruno Giacosa, or a red Dolcetto d’Alba from Aldo Conterno
Mozzarella in a Carriage, sort of
Mozzarella in Carrozza
MAKES 8 SANDWICHES
Attenzione! These are very addictive. Grilled cheese meets French toast in this hot, savory sandwich perfect for lunch, as an appetizer, or cut into small pieces for a snack. With this version of the Neapolitan classic, you build the sandwich on the griddle. This seems odd at first, but what you end up with is a lighter version of the original—and cleaner hands. The melted cheese and a little adornment of tomato, basil, or other savories inside will be enveloped in a “carriage” of the griddled and baked bread that is coated in a Parmesan-laden egg crust.
6 large eggs
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
16 slices white bread, crusts removed
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 ounces whole-milk mozzarella, cut into 16 thin slices
1 large tomato, cut into 8 thin slices
16 fresh basil leaves
Preheat the oven to 275°F. Preheat a griddle or cast-iron pan over medium-low heat.
Whisk the eggs with ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons lukewarm water. Add the Parmesan, salt, and pepper. Transfer to a baking dish large enough to hold 4 pieces of bread. Only one side of the bread will be coated. Working with 4 slices of bread at a time, place them in the egg mixture. Let rest for 10 seconds or so.
Wipe some butter on the griddle, then place the bread on it egg side down. Put 2 pieces of mozzarella on each slice of bread and season with a pinch of salt. Add a slice of tomato to each and season with some salt. Place 2 basil leaves on each. Coat 4 more pieces of bread with the egg wash on one side then place one on each sandwich egg side up. Cook until golden brown on the underside, about 5 minutes. Place a small pat of butter on the top of each sandwich, gently pressing it into the bread. Carefully turn the sandwiches with a spatula. As they start to cook on the other side, gently press down on each to help bind everything together. Cook until the second side is golden brown, an additional 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet. Repeat the procedure to make 8 sandwiches.
Bake until the cheese is completely melted and the egg absorbed by the bread is cooked throughout, 12 to 15 minutes. Hold for a couple of minutes or so before slicing, then serve immediately.
Entertaining Note: The sandwiches can be made up to 1 hour in advance. Just hold off on putting them in the oven until at least 15 minutes before serving. They may need a few more minutes of baking time since the sandwiches will have cooled.
Chef’s Note: Pair the mozzarella with other fillings—sliced ham, prosciutto or salami, chopped olives, anchovies, hot red pepper flakes, oregano, cooked and chopped spinach, truffles, or try different cheeses like Fontina, Taleggio, or a young Montasio.
Wine Recommendation: A sparkling white from Sicily, Murgo brut NV or a sparkling red from Lombardy, Sangue di Giuda by Bruno Verde
Baked Crêpes with the Don’s Filling
Crespelle al Forno, Ripiena di Don Alfonso
MAKES 8 FIRST-COURSE OR LUNCH SERVINGS (16 CRÊPES)
This sublime recipe is inspired by the signature ravioli made at Ristorante Don Alfonso near the Amalfi Coast. It is also a version of a Neapolitan dish called crespelle ripiene, simply put, stuffed crêpes. When baked, the filling ingredients blossom to a light and cheesy flavor highlighted with ham and basil. When paired with a pungent tomato sauce that cuts through the cheese, the result is a flavor experience the Italians like to call ottimo (optimum)!
For the Crêpes:
2 cups all-purpose flour
6 large eggs
2¼ cups whole milk
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese
2 teaspoons fine sea salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
For the Ripiena (Filling):
Two 15-ounce containers whole-milk ricotta
2 large egg yolks
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, grated
2 ounces baked ham (from a deli slice 1/8 inch thick), cut into small dice
1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh basil, plus 8 sprigs for garnish
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups Fresh Tomato Sauce (Recipes)
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
To make the crêpe batter, sift the flour into a mixing bowl. In another bowl, beat the eggs, then mix to incorporate the milk. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the flour while whisking to create a smooth batter. Pour through a strainer. Add the cheese and the salt. Reserve at room temperature covered with plastic for 1 hour if making crêpes the same day or refrigerate the batter for up to 1 day ahead. Take the batter out of the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking.
To make the filling, stir the ricotta with the egg yolks in a mixing bowl to make them smooth. Mix in the remaining filling ingredients, adding more salt and pepper if needed. The flavor should be a touch salty as for pasta fillings. It can also be made a day in advance and in fact will be even better after the flavors develop overnight.
To make the crêpes, heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Use a paper towel to coat the bottom surface of the pan with ½ teaspoon of the butter. It should lightly sizzle for optimal heat. Stir the crêpe batter, then add ¼ cup to the pan. Keeping the pan near the heat, tilt in each direction so the batter coats the entire bottom surface in an even circle. If it is too thick and doesn’t move easily, add a little milk to the rest of the batter to thin the consistency a touch. Cook the crêpe until dry on the top surface, about 3 minutes. With a rubber spatula, lift the crêpe and turn it over to cook on the other side, 10 to 15 seconds.
Transfer to a baking sheet, then repeat with the rest of the batter, buttering the pan in between crêpes. Space the crêpes on the baking sheet so as each one cools, the next one does not cover it, then make layers. To make the crêpes in advance, stack the cooled crêpes on a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to a day. Bring the crêpes to room temperature before separating and filling; otherwise they will tear.
To bake the crêpes, preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a baking sheet. Spread a shy 1/3 cup of the filling evenly over the textured side of each crêpe to about ½ inch from the edge all around (the smooth surface is the side that was cooked first). Fold the crêpes in half, then with the back edge of your hand or index finger gently make an indentation in the crêpe and filling to form a crease perpendicular to the center of the fold. Fold the crêpes in half again to make a quarter of a circle. Transfer to the baking sheet, leaving some space between crêpes.
Bake until the crêpes start to brown and puff, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, warm the sauce. The consistency should be thin and smooth, so add a little water, a couple tablespoons at a time, if necessary. Arrange the crêpes on a serving platter or on in
dividual plates and offer the sauce on the side or top each with some sauce, about 2 tablespoons per crêpe. Add some grated cheese and a drizzle of the olive oil, then garnish with the basil sprigs. Serve subito (immediately)!
Wine Recommendation: From Campania, a white Pallagrello Bianco from Terre del Principe or a red Aglianico from De Conciliis
Shrimp and Garden Vegetable Cannelloni
Cannelloni con Ripiena di Gamberi e Verdure
MAKES 6 FIRST-COURSE OR LUNCH SERVINGS
This wonderful filling made with shrimp, a few vegetables, and just a little heat from hot red pepper flakes is used to stuff tiny calamari—calamaretti—at Ristorante Romano in Viareggio. For flavor and economy, I’ve added fresh bread crumbs to the original recipe, making it delicious as a pasta filling. It is also great as a stuffing for vegetables like zucchini and tomatoes. Or make little patties, coat in dried bread crumbs, and cook as if making crab cakes. Best if the filling is made a day in advance to give the ingredients a chance to marry and develop better flavor.
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon pure olive oil
1 tablespoon sliced garlic
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
½ pound green zucchini, grated (about 1½ cups)
½ pound yellow zucchini, grated (about 1½ cups)
1 medium carrot, grated
Fine sea salt
2 to 3 large garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
1 pound large (16–20 per pound) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cut into ½-inch pieces
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1 large egg yolk
2 cups fresh bread crumbs
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
12 cannelloni shells
3 cups Fresh Tomato Sauce (Recipes)
Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling
2 tablespoons roughly chopped Italian parsley
Heat 2 tablespoons of the pure olive oil with the sliced garlic in a large sauté pan over medium heat until it starts to brown, about 3 minutes. Add the hot pepper flakes, swirl in the oil, and immediately add the zucchini and carrot. Stir from time to time until the vegetables are soft and begin to break apart, about 20 minutes. The mixture should be fairly dry at this point. Season with salt. Spread the mixture on a baking sheet to cool.
In the same pan, heat another 2 tablespoons of the oil with the crushed garlic cloves over medium heat. Gently shake and tilt the pan so the cloves are immersed and sizzling at one side of the pan in a pool of the oil. As the garlic starts to turn golden, lay the pan flat on the burner, then add the shrimp. Sauté until opaque but still tender, about 2 minutes. Season with salt. Deglaze the pan by adding the wine and scraping any bits from the bottom of the pan. Transfer the shrimp to the baking sheet with the vegetables to cool. Scrape any residual oil and cooking liquid with a rubber spatula out of the pan and onto the shrimp and vegetables.
When the mixture has cooled, working in 2 batches, pulse in a food processor to break down the shrimp into small pieces without pureeing. You can also do this by hand with a chef’s knife. Make sure the mixture is combined evenly. Transfer to a bowl. Adjust the seasoning. Mix in the egg yolk, bread crumbs, and basil. The mixture should be fairly dry and should hold together. Make the mixture up to a day in advance and refrigerate to give the flavors a chance to develop.
Cook the cannelloni shells in salted boiling water until pliable but not too soft since they will cook again when filled. Have a tray ready to cool the pasta instead of running it under cold water. Carefully remove the pieces of pasta with a slotted spoon or skimmer so as not to break them. When the pasta is cool enough to be handled, carefully cut each along the length to open it into a flat piece.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Oil a baking dish large enough to hold all of the cannelloni when rolled. Form a log using slightly more than ¼ cup of the filling that is the same length as an opened cannelloni shell. Place it along one edge of the pasta and roll it gently in the pasta, keeping the roll snug. There should be a slight overlap when you finish the roll. Place seam side down in the baking dish. Repeat with the remaining filling and cannelloni. Add ½ cup water to the pan, cover with aluminum foil, and bake for 25 to 30 minutes.
Warm the sauce in a nonreactive saucepan (stainless steel is best). Use a thin spatula to transfer 2 cannelloni per serving to warmed plates or put all of them on a serving platter. Spoon the sauce on top. Finish with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and the parsley. Serve subito (immediately)!
Wine Recommendation: From coastal Tuscany, a white Argentato Bianco from Le Pupille or a red Le Difese from Tenuta San Guido
Linguine with Clams and Zucchini
Linguine con Vongole e Zucchini
MAKES 4 FIRST-COURSE OR LUNCH SERVINGS
A popular and classic primo of the Amalfi Coast, this dish can be found on menus throughout the region in countless different versions. This recipe is an adaptation from Ristorante Lo Scoglio in Marina del Cantone. One of the waiters gave me the method after our epic lunch for la Signora ’s birthday. Small world. I knew him from when I worked at Don Alfonso. He grew up with Alfonso. This camaraderie led to the secret in the recipe to be revealed—the seemingly overcooked zucchini in the method is interesting and makes for very flavorful oil in which to cook the clams.
4 large garlic cloves, peeled
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup pure olive oil
4 medium (about 1½ pounds) zucchini, sliced into 1/8-inch-thick rounds
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
32 littleneck clams (about 3½ pounds), washed
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, plus extra for serving
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
12 ounces linguine
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Lightly crush the garlic cloves and heat with both oils in a large nonreactive sauté pan over medium heat until they start to sizzle. Adjust the heat so the garlic continues to cook evenly in the oil, releasing its own essential oils and softens, but does not brown, about 2 minutes. Add the zucchini and carefully blend with the oil. Season with salt. Continue to cook slowly, stirring from time to time, until the squash is completely softened and starts to break apart but does not brown, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let rest in the oil for 2 hours. Pour into a fine-mesh strainer, reserving the zucchini and oil separately. Keep the same pan, without cleaning, for cooking the clams.
Heat the zucchini oil in the pan over medium heat until it starts to sizzle. Add the clams, cover the pan, and turn the heat to medium-high. Cook the clams, gently shaking the pan from time to time, until they start to open, 5 to 6 minutes. Cooking time will vary, depending on the size of the clams and the thickness of the shells. Add the reserved zucchini, hot pepper flakes, and parsley. Gently stir with the clams. Set aside.
Boil the linguine in an abundant amount of salted water until done to taste. Reserve ½ cup of the pasta water before draining the linguine. Heat the clams and zucchini with the butter. Toss with the linguine, adding a little of the pasta water so that the zucchini and pan liquid coat the pasta like a sauce.
Transfer to a warm serving platter or individual pasta bowls. Start with the pasta, then top with the clams and zucchini. Serve subito—immediately—with extra hot pepper flakes on the side.
Wine Recommendation: Whites from Campania, a Falanghina from Castello Ducale or Lacrima Christi from Villa Carafa
Spaghettini with San Marzano Red Clam Sauce
Spaghettini con Vongole in Sugo Rosso
MAKES 4 FIRST-COURSE OR LUNCH SERVINGS
Everyone should have a red clam sauce in his or her repertoire. This one is particularly good for smaller clams like littlenecks or clams sold as vongole. If you make this a couple hours ahead of serving, the sauce will take on a nice hint of clam flavor with the other aromatics. Except for the clams and the basil, all of the other ingredients come out of the pantry, making this an excellent recipe for getting on the express line at
the store. With a few other things to round out the meal, you’ll still be buying fewer than ten items!
1 large garlic clove, peeled
2 tablespoons pure olive oil
4 pounds littleneck clams
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 tablespoon sliced garlic
2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
One 28-ounce can San Marzano tomatoes with their juice, pureed (2 cups)
½ teaspoon sugar
Fine sea salt
12 ounces spaghettini
¼ cup torn fresh basil leaves
Lightly crush the garlic clove and heat with the pure olive oil in a large nonreactive sauté pan with a lid over medium heat. When the garlic starts to sizzle, gently shake and tilt the pan so the clove is immersed and sizzling at one side of the pan in a pool of the oil. As the clove starts to turn golden, lay the pan flat on the burner so the oil covers the entire surface. It is important the clams be dry so they don’t flare up because of any water on them when added to the hot oil. Add the clams and immediately cover the pan. Gently shake the pan from time to time with the cover on and cook until the clams start to open, 5 to 6 minutes. Cooking time will vary, depending on the size of the clams and the thickness of the shells. As they start to open, remove them with a slotted spoon and transfer to a baking sheet to cool. Strain the remaining liquid in the pan through a fine-mesh strainer and set aside. You should have about ½ cup.
Wipe out the pan and return to the stove over medium-low heat. Add the extra virgin olive oil, onion, and sliced garlic. Cook, stirring from time to time, until the onion is softened and the garlic is just beginning to caramelize, about 4 minutes. Add half the parsley, the hot pepper flakes, the reserved clam juice, tomato puree, and sugar. Stir to produce an even consistency. If necessary, season with salt (this will depend on how salty the clam juice is). Adjust the heat to maintain a slow, even boil. Cook until the sauce begins to thicken and lightens in color, about 10 minutes. Stir from time to time, scraping the bottom with a wooden spoon or paddle.
Mediterranean Summer Page 29
