Tangled Vines

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Tangled Vines Page 29

by Frances Dinkelspiel


  Hermacinski, Ursula. The Wine Lover’s Guide to Auctions: The Art and Science of Buying and Selling Wines. Square One Publishers, Inc., 2006.

  Hittell, John S. The Resources of California: Comprising Agriculture, Mining, Geography, Climate, &c., and the Past and Future Development of the State. 5th ed., with an appendix on Oregon, Nevada, and Washington Territory. San Francisco, New York: A. Roman and Company, 1869.

  Hock, Stanley. Harvesting the Dream: The Trinchero Family of Sutter Home: 50 Years in the Napa Valley. St. Helena, CA: Sutter Home Winery, 1998.

  “Justice Department Crushes Winemaker’s Hopes of Pardon|Justice Department|McClatchy DC.” Accessed February 23, 2014. www.mcclatchydc.com/2009/01/08/59310/justice-department-crushes-winemakers.html.

  Lane, Elizabeth L. “Books and Articles Relating to Louisiana, 1966.” Louisiana History: The Journal of the Louisiana Historical Association 8, no. 3 (July 1, 1967): 268–80.

  Lehman, Anthony L. “Vines and Vintners in the Pomona Valley.” Southern California Quarterly 54, no. 1 (April 1, 1972): 55–65. doi:10.2307/41170398.

  “Lengthy Gang Trial Ends in Two Convictions.” Timesheraldonline.com. Accessed September 15, 2013. www.timesheraldonline.com/ci_3688523.

  Lukacs, Paul. American Vintage: The Rise of American Wine. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 2000.

  Monroy, Douglas. “The Creation and Re-Creation of Californio Society.” California History 76, no. 2/3 (July 1, 1997): 173–95.

  Newmark, Harris. Sixty Years in Southern California, 1853–1913, Containing the Reminiscences of Harris Newmark. New York: Knickerbocker Press, 1916.

  Peninou, Ernest P. A Directory of California Wine Growers and Wine Makers in 1860. Berkeley, CA: Tamalpais Press, 1967.

  ______. A History of the Los Angeles Viticultural District: Comprising the Counties of Imperial, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside, San Bernardino, San Diego, San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, and Ventura: With Grape Acreage Statistics and Directories of Grape Growers. A History of the Seven Viticultural Districts of California 4. Santa Rosa, CA: Nomis Press for Wine Librarians Association, 2004.

  ______. Leland Stanford’s Great Vina Ranch 1881–1919: A Research Paper: The History of Senator Leland Stanford’s Vina Vineyard and the World’s Largest Winery Formerly the Site of Peter Lassen’s Bosquejo and Henry Gerke’s Ranch. San Francisco, CA: Yolo Hills Viticultural Society, 1991.

  ______. Winemaking in California. San Francisco, CA: Peregrine Press, 1954.

  Peninou, Ernest P., and Gail G. Unzelman, eds. The California Wine Association and Its Member Wineries, 1894–1920. Santa Rosa, CA: Nomis Press, 2000.

  Pfanner, Eric. “Fraud Charges Threaten Burgundy’s Vaunted Reputation.” The New York Times, June 18, 2012, sec. Business Day/Global Business. www.nytimes.com/2012/06/19/business/global/fraud-charges-threaten-burgundys-vaunted-reputation.html.

  Phillips, George Harwood. Vineyards & Vaqueros: Indian Labor and the Economic Expansion of Southern California, 1771–1877. Before Gold: California under Spain and Mexico, v. 1. Norman, OK: Arthur H. Clark, 2010.

  Pinney, Thomas. A History of Wine in America from the Beginnings to Prohibition. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1989.

  ______. A History of Wine in America: From Prohibition to the Present. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2005.

  ______. The Makers of American Wine: A Record of Two Hundred Years. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2012.

  Robinson, Jancis, ed. The Oxford Companion to Wine. 3rd ed. Oxford; New York: Oxford University Press, 2006.

  Saloutos, Theodore. “The Immigrant Contribution to American Agriculture.” Agricultural History 50, no. 1 (January 1, 1976): 45–67.

  Siler, Julia Flynn. The House of Mondavi: The Rise and Fall of an American Wine Dynasty. New York: Gotham Books, 2007.

  Street, Richard S. “Rural California: A Bibliographic Essay.” Southern California Quarterly 70, no. 3 (October 1, 1988): 299–328.

  Street, Richard Steven. Beasts of the Field: A Narrative History of California Farmworkers, 1769–1913. Stanford, CA: Stanford University Press, 2004.

  Sullivan, Charles L. A Companion to California Wine: An Encyclopedia of Wine and Winemaking from the Mission Period to the Present. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1998.

  ______. Napa Wine: A History from Mission Days to Present. San Francisco: The Wine Appreciation Guild, 1994.

  ______. Sonoma Wine and the Story of Buena Vista. Board and Bench Publishing, 2013.

  Taber, George M. A Toast to Bargain Wines: How Innovators, Iconoclasts, and Winemaking Revolutionaries Are Changing the Way the World Drinks. New York: Simon and Schuster, 2011.

  Teiser, Ruth, and Harroun, Catherine. Winemaking in California. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1982.

  Truman, Benjamin Cummings. Semi-Tropical California: Its Climate, Healthfulness, Productiveness, and Scenery. San Francisco: A. L. Bancroft & Company, 1874.

  Wallace, Benjamin. Published May 2012. “Château Sucker.” NYMag.com. Accessed February 22, 2014. http://nymag.com/news/features/rudy-kurniawan-wine-fraud-2012-5/.

  Warner, J. J., Benjamin Hayes, J. P. Widney, and Los Angeles (Calif.), eds. An Historical Sketch of Los Angeles County, California: From the Spanish Occupancy, by the Founding of the Mission San Gabriel Archangel, September 8, 1771, to July 4, 1876. Los Angeles: Louis Lewin & Co., 1876.

  Wilson, Iris Ann. “Early Southern California Viniculture 1830–1865.” The Historical Society of Southern California Quarterly 39, no. 3 (September 1, 1957): 242–50. doi:10.2307/41169133.

  Winther, Oscar Osburn. “The Colony System of Southern California.” Agricultural History 27, no. 3 (July 1, 1953): 94–103.

  Woutat, Donald. “State Near Bottom of Barrel of Wine Grape Scandal: Fraud: Wineries That Unwittingly Bought Overpriced Grapes Simply Used Them to Make Overpriced Wine. New Safeguards Are Now in Place.” Los Angeles Times, January 30, 1994. http://articles.latimes.com/1994-01-30/business/fi-18304_1_wine-industry.

  Writers, Susan Sward, Greg Lucas, Chronicle Staff. “S.F. Lawyer’s Quest Continues / On Case since ’93, He’ll Help Weigh Evidence against Kaczynski.” SFGate, April 13, 1996. www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/S-F-Lawyer-s-Quest-Continues-On-case-since-2986148.php#src=fb.

  Tiburcio Tapia was awarded the 13,000-acre Rancho Cucamonga in 1839 after he presented this map to the Mexican governor of California. The area was so sparsely settled that Tapia, a former soldier and Los Angeles merchant, only had to sketch out general landmarks such as the San Gabriel Mountains to establish the rancho’s boundaries. Tapia moved his herds of cattle to the land. He was the first to plant grapes there. (Photo courtesy of the Bancroft Library)

  In 1858, John Rains, a former cattle driver and Confederate sympathizer, used funds from his wife, Maria Merced Williams de Rains, to purchase Rancho Cucamonga for $16,500. He expanded and improved the vineyard. Rains’s murder in 1862 sparked a series of killings that terrorized the Los Angeles region. (Photo courtesy of the Model Colony Room of the Ontario City Library)

  Maria Merced Williams de Rains was Californio royalty and was born into great wealth and privilege. When her husband John Rains died in 1862 she was ill equipped to deal with his debts, and the deceit of those around her led to her losing her beloved Rancho Cucamonga.

  In 1870, Isaias W. Hellman, a twenty-eight-year-old German Jew who opened one of the city’s first banks, bought Rancho Cucamonga at a sheriff’s sale for $49,200. Hellman sold off pieces of the rancho and brought in business partners to expand and improve the vineyard. He owned the vineyard and Rains’s old house for forty-seven years. Hellman, the author’s great-great-grandfather, was president of the Wells Fargo Bank when he died in 1920. (Photo courtesy of the Heller family collection)

  Jean Louis Sainsevain came to Los Angeles from France in 1853 to join his uncle, Jean-Louis Vignes (pronounced “vines”), whose 104-acre El Aliso vineyard was the centerpiece of winemaking in southern California. Sainsevain and his brother Pierre bought the vineyard in 1855 and t
heir firm, Sainsevain Brothers, was soon selling California wine around the world. After a series of financial reversals, Sainsevain became the winemaker at the Cucamonga Vineyard. 175 bottles of Port and Angelica he made in 1875 were destroyed in the 2005 Vallejo warehouse fire. (Photo courtesy of UCLA Department of Special Collections)

  Painting of the Cucamonga winery by Henry Chapman Ford. In 1874, Isaias W. Hellman and his business partners, former California governor John Downey and Anaheim wine merchant Benjamin Dreyfus, poured money into the Cucamonga Vineyard and winery to increase its production. The artist probably painted this undated picture in the late 1880s. (Photo courtesy of the Huntington Library)

  Workers picking grapes at the Cucamonga vineyard in the late 1880s. (Photo courtesy of the Early California Wine Trade Archive)

  The Mission grapes that the Franciscan fathers imported in 1778 to make sacramental wine thrived in the hot sun of southern California. The vines could live for more than fifty years and grow several feet around and six feet tall. The table wine made from Mission grapes was not very good, though, which complicated California’s attempts to penetrate the New York City market. The grapes, however, produced excellent fortified wines such as Port and the sweet white Angelica. In this 1884 photo, a young girl stands under a forty-eight-year-old Mission grapevine in Montecito in Santa Barbara County. (Photo courtesy of the Bancroft Library)

  In 1893, in one of many attempts to elevate the reputation of California wine, four wine merchants created the “Big Tree Wine” exhibit for the Chicago Columbian Exposition. A statue of “Viticulture,” along with one of a Franciscan friar and an Indian woman holding a basket of grapes, stood in front of a forty-foot-tall, hollow replica of a redwood tree. Inside, fair revelers could marvel at displays of California wine. (Photo courtesy of the Early California Wine Trade Archive)

  In 1894, the California wine industry was in disarray, caused by a glut of grapes, low prices, and fierce competition among the wine merchants of San Francisco. Percy Morgan, an English accountant, was instrumental in the creation of the California Wine Association, which brought together seven large wine houses and stabilized the industry. Within twenty years, the CWA monopolized the wine industry, controlling 80 percent of the production and sale of wine in the state. (Photo courtesy of the Gail Unzelman collection)

  The California Wine Association established its headquarters in 1894 in the former Kohler & Frohling building on Second and Folsom Streets. San Francisco was the center of the wine world in that era, as grape growers and winemakers shipped their products there to be blended, aged, and sold.

  Everything the California Wine Association did was on a massive scale. Wines in the latter part of the nineteenth century were not aged, but blended and shipped around the world in barrels. S. Lachman & Co., one of the original members of the CWA, had the world’s largest oak storage tank at its headquarters on Brannan Street in San Francisco. It held 80,000 gallons of wine. (Photo courtesy of the Bancroft Library)

  The 1906 San Francisco earthquake and fire destroyed many of the buildings owned by the California Wine Association, including its headquarters, and ruined 10 million gallons of its wine. Percy Morgan, the company’s president, is one of the men standing in front of the rubble. (Photo courtesy of the California Historical Society)

  In 1906, after the earthquake, the California Wine Association built Winehaven, near the city of Richmond on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay. It was the largest winemaking facility in the world until Prohibition. Many of the original buildings, including a crenellated brick building that resembles a medieval castle, are still standing, although they are disintegrating. (Photo courtesy of Willie Agnew, caretaker, Point Molate)

  The arson fire that ripped through the Wines Central warehouse in Vallejo on October 12, 2005, destroyed around 4.5 million bottles of wine worth at least $250 million, making it the largest crime involving wine in history. It took more than a year to clean up the building and remove all the debris. (Photo courtesy of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives)

  Mark C. Anderson started a wine storage business in Sausalito in 1999 and was charged a few years later with embezzling 8,000 bottles of wine worth more than $1.1 million from his clients. Federal officials believe Anderson set fire to the Wines Central warehouse to cover his tracks. In this 2006 photo, Anderson is at the Marin County courthouse for an embezzlement hearing. (Photo courtesy of Jeff Vendsel/Marin Independent Journal)

  ATF investigator Brian O. Parker holds the propane torch that was used to start the Wines Central warehouse fire. An arson canine discovered it in Anderson’s storage bay on the mezzanine level. Parker spent ten years working on the Anderson case, from the 2005 fire to Anderson’s 2007 arrest to his 2012 conviction and subsequent appeal. The case lasted so long that Parker had three children during that time. (Photo courtesy of the author)

  Steven Lapham was the assistant U.S. attorney who prosecuted Mark Anderson. A specialist in arson, white-collar crime, and wine fraud, Lapham handled many high-profile cases, including that of the Unabomber. He is shown at left being interviewed by a camera crew outside the federal courthouse in Sacramento. (Photo courtesy of the author)

  Dick Ward, who cofounded Saintsbury, in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley, stands by boxes of wine that were scorched, but not destroyed, in the warehouse fire. Ward has stacked the boxes in the back of his barrel room, a constant reminder of the fire that destroyed his winery’s library of wine on the eve of its twenty-fifth anniversary. (Photo courtesy of the author)

  Delia Viader, who started Viader Vineyards on Howell Mountain in the late 1980s, lost her entire 2003 vintage, about 7,400 cases, in the warehouse fire. Viader’s wine was not even supposed to be at Wines Central. She had to move it there because she ran out of room at her winery when the expansion of her caves was not completed on time. Viader’s insurance company declined to reimburse the $4.5 million she lost, forcing Viader to sell the vineyard in Italy she had hoped to retire to. (Photo courtesy of the author)

  Ted Hall, who started Long Meadow Ranch with his wife, Laddie, and son, Chris, established his winery’s brand by making more than 5,000 visits to restaurants and stores around the country. The fire destroyed Long Meadow’s 2002 vintage and part of its 2001 vintage, meaning there was no wine to send to all those outlets. Hall made an impassioned speech at Anderson’s sentencing about the lingering damage of the fire, and it appeared to persuade the judge to hand down a long sentence.

  Only a few bottles of Isaias Hellman’s 1875 Port and Angelica remain after 175 bottles were destroyed in the warehouse fire. (Photo courtesy of the author)

  INDEX

  The index that appeared in the print version of this title does not match the pages in your e-book. Please use the search function on your e-reading device to search for terms of interest. For your reference, the terms that appear in the print index are listed below.

  Abreu, Dave

  accelerants

  Acker Merrall & Condit

  adobe

  aging of wine

  aguardiente

  Alameda County

  grape growing in

  Alcohol and Tobacco Tax Trade Bureau

  Alibaba

  Almaden Winery

  Alvarado, Juan B.

  A. Marschall Company, New York

  Amazon Ranch

  American Canyon warehouse

  American Institute of the City of New York, Farmers’ Club

  Anaheim

  Anderson, James

  Anderson, Mark

  background and upbringing

  behavior after the fire

  columnist for local papers

  communications with the author from jail cell

  computer geekhood

  customer of Wines Central Warehouse

  in the days after the fire

  examined by psychiatrist

  finances

  founds a wine storage company

  health (obesity)
r />   home in Sausalito

  in Japan

  Japan fancy of

  known as Joe Sausalito (columnist)

  library of, with books about identity changing

  mystery of finances and activities

  photographer

  psychology of

  rambling conversational style of

  rents space at Wines Central warehouse

  in Sausalito establishment

  Sushi Lover

  tall tales (lies) about accomplishments

  tour of France

  travels

  wine connoisseur, self-taught

  at Wines Central Warehouse on the day of the fire

  Anderson, Mark, arrest

  apartment searched

  arrest by ATF

  grand jury indictment

  jailed, bailed, and jailed again

  Anderson, Mark, crimes of

  arson of the Wines Central warehouse

  embezzlement

  illegal wine sales

  pipe bomb incident as child

  refuses to admit guilt

  selling his own clients’ wines

  Anderson, Mark, trial

  acting as his own lawyer

  plea bargain, initially

  pleading guilty

  sentencing

  sent to Terminal Island to serve sentence

  Anderson, Patricia

  Anderson, Paul

  Anderson, Steven

  death as pauper

 

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