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Tiburcio Tapia was awarded the 13,000-acre Rancho Cucamonga in 1839 after he presented this map to the Mexican governor of California. The area was so sparsely settled that Tapia, a former soldier and Los Angeles merchant, only had to sketch out general landmarks such as the San Gabriel Mountains to establish the rancho’s boundaries. Tapia moved his herds of cattle to the land. He was the first to plant grapes there. (Photo courtesy of the Bancroft Library)
In 1858, John Rains, a former cattle driver and Confederate sympathizer, used funds from his wife, Maria Merced Williams de Rains, to purchase Rancho Cucamonga for $16,500. He expanded and improved the vineyard. Rains’s murder in 1862 sparked a series of killings that terrorized the Los Angeles region. (Photo courtesy of the Model Colony Room of the Ontario City Library)
Maria Merced Williams de Rains was Californio royalty and was born into great wealth and privilege. When her husband John Rains died in 1862 she was ill equipped to deal with his debts, and the deceit of those around her led to her losing her beloved Rancho Cucamonga.
In 1870, Isaias W. Hellman, a twenty-eight-year-old German Jew who opened one of the city’s first banks, bought Rancho Cucamonga at a sheriff’s sale for $49,200. Hellman sold off pieces of the rancho and brought in business partners to expand and improve the vineyard. He owned the vineyard and Rains’s old house for forty-seven years. Hellman, the author’s great-great-grandfather, was president of the Wells Fargo Bank when he died in 1920. (Photo courtesy of the Heller family collection)
Jean Louis Sainsevain came to Los Angeles from France in 1853 to join his uncle, Jean-Louis Vignes (pronounced “vines”), whose 104-acre El Aliso vineyard was the centerpiece of winemaking in southern California. Sainsevain and his brother Pierre bought the vineyard in 1855 and t
heir firm, Sainsevain Brothers, was soon selling California wine around the world. After a series of financial reversals, Sainsevain became the winemaker at the Cucamonga Vineyard. 175 bottles of Port and Angelica he made in 1875 were destroyed in the 2005 Vallejo warehouse fire. (Photo courtesy of UCLA Department of Special Collections)
Painting of the Cucamonga winery by Henry Chapman Ford. In 1874, Isaias W. Hellman and his business partners, former California governor John Downey and Anaheim wine merchant Benjamin Dreyfus, poured money into the Cucamonga Vineyard and winery to increase its production. The artist probably painted this undated picture in the late 1880s. (Photo courtesy of the Huntington Library)
Workers picking grapes at the Cucamonga vineyard in the late 1880s. (Photo courtesy of the Early California Wine Trade Archive)
The Mission grapes that the Franciscan fathers imported in 1778 to make sacramental wine thrived in the hot sun of southern California. The vines could live for more than fifty years and grow several feet around and six feet tall. The table wine made from Mission grapes was not very good, though, which complicated California’s attempts to penetrate the New York City market. The grapes, however, produced excellent fortified wines such as Port and the sweet white Angelica. In this 1884 photo, a young girl stands under a forty-eight-year-old Mission grapevine in Montecito in Santa Barbara County. (Photo courtesy of the Bancroft Library)
In 1893, in one of many attempts to elevate the reputation of California wine, four wine merchants created the “Big Tree Wine” exhibit for the Chicago Columbian Exposition. A statue of “Viticulture,” along with one of a Franciscan friar and an Indian woman holding a basket of grapes, stood in front of a forty-foot-tall, hollow replica of a redwood tree. Inside, fair revelers could marvel at displays of California wine. (Photo courtesy of the Early California Wine Trade Archive)
In 1894, the California wine industry was in disarray, caused by a glut of grapes, low prices, and fierce competition among the wine merchants of San Francisco. Percy Morgan, an English accountant, was instrumental in the creation of the California Wine Association, which brought together seven large wine houses and stabilized the industry. Within twenty years, the CWA monopolized the wine industry, controlling 80 percent of the production and sale of wine in the state. (Photo courtesy of the Gail Unzelman collection)
The California Wine Association established its headquarters in 1894 in the former Kohler & Frohling building on Second and Folsom Streets. San Francisco was the center of the wine world in that era, as grape growers and winemakers shipped their products there to be blended, aged, and sold.
Everything the California Wine Association did was on a massive scale. Wines in the latter part of the nineteenth century were not aged, but blended and shipped around the world in barrels. S. Lachman & Co., one of the original members of the CWA, had the world’s largest oak storage tank at its headquarters on Brannan Street in San Francisco. It held 80,000 gallons of wine. (Photo courtesy of the Bancroft Library)
The 1906 San Francisco earthquake and fire destroyed many of the buildings owned by the California Wine Association, including its headquarters, and ruined 10 million gallons of its wine. Percy Morgan, the company’s president, is one of the men standing in front of the rubble. (Photo courtesy of the California Historical Society)
In 1906, after the earthquake, the California Wine Association built Winehaven, near the city of Richmond on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay. It was the largest winemaking facility in the world until Prohibition. Many of the original buildings, including a crenellated brick building that resembles a medieval castle, are still standing, although they are disintegrating. (Photo courtesy of Willie Agnew, caretaker, Point Molate)
The arson fire that ripped through the Wines Central warehouse in Vallejo on October 12, 2005, destroyed around 4.5 million bottles of wine worth at least $250 million, making it the largest crime involving wine in history. It took more than a year to clean up the building and remove all the debris. (Photo courtesy of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms, and Explosives)
Mark C. Anderson started a wine storage business in Sausalito in 1999 and was charged a few years later with embezzling 8,000 bottles of wine worth more than $1.1 million from his clients. Federal officials believe Anderson set fire to the Wines Central warehouse to cover his tracks. In this 2006 photo, Anderson is at the Marin County courthouse for an embezzlement hearing. (Photo courtesy of Jeff Vendsel/Marin Independent Journal)
ATF investigator Brian O. Parker holds the propane torch that was used to start the Wines Central warehouse fire. An arson canine discovered it in Anderson’s storage bay on the mezzanine level. Parker spent ten years working on the Anderson case, from the 2005 fire to Anderson’s 2007 arrest to his 2012 conviction and subsequent appeal. The case lasted so long that Parker had three children during that time. (Photo courtesy of the author)
Steven Lapham was the assistant U.S. attorney who prosecuted Mark Anderson. A specialist in arson, white-collar crime, and wine fraud, Lapham handled many high-profile cases, including that of the Unabomber. He is shown at left being interviewed by a camera crew outside the federal courthouse in Sacramento. (Photo courtesy of the author)
Dick Ward, who cofounded Saintsbury, in the Carneros region of the Napa Valley, stands by boxes of wine that were scorched, but not destroyed, in the warehouse fire. Ward has stacked the boxes in the back of his barrel room, a constant reminder of the fire that destroyed his winery’s library of wine on the eve of its twenty-fifth anniversary. (Photo courtesy of the author)
Delia Viader, who started Viader Vineyards on Howell Mountain in the late 1980s, lost her entire 2003 vintage, about 7,400 cases, in the warehouse fire. Viader’s wine was not even supposed to be at Wines Central. She had to move it there because she ran out of room at her winery when the expansion of her caves was not completed on time. Viader’s insurance company declined to reimburse the $4.5 million she lost, forcing Viader to sell the vineyard in Italy she had hoped to retire to. (Photo courtesy of the author)
Ted Hall, who started Long Meadow Ranch with his wife, Laddie, and son, Chris, established his winery’s brand by making more than 5,000 visits to restaurants and stores around the country. The fire destroyed Long Meadow’s 2002 vintage and part of its 2001 vintage, meaning there was no wine to send to all those outlets. Hall made an impassioned speech at Anderson’s sentencing about the lingering damage of the fire, and it appeared to persuade the judge to hand down a long sentence.
Only a few bottles of Isaias Hellman’s 1875 Port and Angelica remain after 175 bottles were destroyed in the warehouse fire. (Photo courtesy of the author)
INDEX
The index that appeared in the print version of this title does not match the pages in your e-book. Please use the search function on your e-reading device to search for terms of interest. For your reference, the terms that appear in the print index are listed below.
Abreu, Dave
accelerants
Acker Merrall & Condit
adobe
aging of wine
aguardiente
Alameda County
grape growing in
Alcohol and Tobacco Tax Trade Bureau
Alibaba
Almaden Winery
Alvarado, Juan B.
A. Marschall Company, New York
Amazon Ranch
American Canyon warehouse
American Institute of the City of New York, Farmers’ Club
Anaheim
Anderson, James
Anderson, Mark
background and upbringing
behavior after the fire
columnist for local papers
communications with the author from jail cell
computer geekhood
customer of Wines Central Warehouse
in the days after the fire
examined by psychiatrist
finances
founds a wine storage company
health (obesity)
r /> home in Sausalito
in Japan
Japan fancy of
known as Joe Sausalito (columnist)
library of, with books about identity changing
mystery of finances and activities
photographer
psychology of
rambling conversational style of
rents space at Wines Central warehouse
in Sausalito establishment
Sushi Lover
tall tales (lies) about accomplishments
tour of France
travels
wine connoisseur, self-taught
at Wines Central Warehouse on the day of the fire
Anderson, Mark, arrest
apartment searched
arrest by ATF
grand jury indictment
jailed, bailed, and jailed again
Anderson, Mark, crimes of
arson of the Wines Central warehouse
embezzlement
illegal wine sales
pipe bomb incident as child
refuses to admit guilt
selling his own clients’ wines
Anderson, Mark, trial
acting as his own lawyer
plea bargain, initially
pleading guilty
sentencing
sent to Terminal Island to serve sentence
Anderson, Patricia
Anderson, Paul
Anderson, Steven
death as pauper
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