During a long distance hike, a partner might decide to go home, or break off to solo on his or her own. If so, would you continue? How would you adapt your equipment? Could you get by with what you have? Keeping the possibility of a split in mind as the equipment is assembled can alleviate problems later. Especially with shelters and sleep systems, knowing the degree of the commitment to the partnership is important. Because there is always the chance of illness or injury, having an alternative plan is wise.
No matter how committed to the partnership, you may become separated for a day or two. When hiking with a partner, divide the shelter so that if you become separated that evening, each person will have something to use. One person could take the ground cloth, the other the tarp. Each should have guy lines to rig a shelter. With a double wall tent, one can take the fly, the other can take the tent. In case of rain, the floor of the tent can be used to shed rain (turn it upside down). Stakes are not a problem, since there are always rocks and roots, or limbs to tie off to.
When sharing a shelter, sometimes partners decide over the course of a long trip that they need more room. As the weeks pass, the small ultralight tarp needs replacing with one just a bit larger. That might be taken into account before you purchase any gear. The one and a half person tent might seem big enough at first, but later it could be too stuffy and confining.
Some couples share one large sleeping bag. Other ultralight couples use one regular bag, unzipping it quilt style. They sew some extra fabric on both sides of the bag (silnylon in one particular case) giving it more width, which helps to keep the other one from "stealing" the whole thing during the night. Another couple I met each had their own bags because in cold weather it actually was warmer to zip up alone, instead of snuggling under a quilt. Rainmaker and I tried sharing a double bag once, but we both slept restlessly and it just didn’t work for us.
Some hikers will cook breakfast every morning without fail. For others, cleaning the pot just isn't worth the trouble, preferring to have an extra half hour's sleep, and a Pop-Tart as they pack up for the day. There are hikers who will stop and cook during the day. Then, in camp at day's end, some make coffee upon arriving, others holding off until they cook supper just before bed. If you and your partner have different styles, try to recognize it before the trip and develop a cooking system accordingly. If you are new hikers, and unsure of your preferences, being patient and understanding with each other should allow most differences to be resolved. It is better to talk things out right away than letting them fester.
Food is an amazingly troublesome area for partnerships. Rainmaker and I always cook separately, carrying our own stoves and pots. Since they are small and ultralight, the versatility for us is worth the effort. We both use soda can stoves, which will nest in any pot. It is the weight of the fuel that is the consideration. Less fuel is needed with one stove, so perhaps a larger stove, made from two 25.5-ounce beer cans would be your choice for group cooking.
If you cook together, perhaps it will just be the evening meal. It is wise to carry your own personal food and snacks. Beware of the person who doesn’t carry enough, and asks you for handouts. If they go hungry a couple days, the next time they will resupply decently. This sounds very hard-hearted, but unless they are children, this lesson is well deserved.
Some partners divide weight evenly, down to the last pound. With other couples, the guy may be expected to carry the bulk of the weight. When this happens, the partnership can be put under strain, especially if the woman doesn't pack lightly. As an ultralighter, you should be able to carry your own personal gear. Maps could be shared, but it is good for each person to have a set of data sheets. The shelter weight can be divided. With cook systems, it depends on how elaborate it is. Each person should have a flexible cup for dipping water in dry areas. Other things that couples can share are tubes of toothpaste, containers of dental floss, a comb, a water sack, repair and emergency kits. However, if each one carries his or her own hygiene and medical supplies, the partner's supplies could be thought of as back up. When resupplying, always check with each other before making purchases, to avoid running out.
I would carry my own toilet paper, sanitation kit, purification chemicals, insect repellent and Ibuprofen. If you become separated from your partner for a couple hours, these items need to be handy at a moment's notice.
Packs
A backpack is considered one of the Big Three, the other two being the sleeping bag and the shelter. These three items are all necessary, and the items where the most weight can be shaved.
There are three types of packs, the external frame, the internal frame, and a non-frame rucksack-style pack. Each one will be discussed in more detail later, but right now I just want to mention size and components.
The larger the pack, the more it will weigh. I guess that’s pretty obvious, but taken a step farther, it means the more hardware you have on a larger pack, the heavier it gets. A backpack’s purpose is simply to corral your gear into one container, and allow you to carry it down the trail. One guy purportedly skipped the pack, and carried his gear in a five-gallon bucket. Then, in camp, this bucket was his campstool.
Silnylon fabric weighs 1.1 to 1.3 ounces per square yard; 400-denier pack cloth weighs 8 ounces per square yard. Ten feet of nylon webbing, just one inch wide, weighs nearly 2 ounces. Each zipper, pocket, or buckle adds weight. A basic pack, with few peripherals, is not only less expensive, but lighter.
How does one determine the correct size? As an ultralighter, you shouldn’t need anything over 3,250 cubic inches. If you are a small person, nearly every piece of your gear will be smaller and a pack of only 2,500 cubic inches may work. Volume is going to be critical in keeping weight down, so a smaller pack is beneficial. Carrying a smaller pack will prevent a person from bringing all the extra things that just get thrown in because there is space. The pack I made for my Appalachian Trail thru-hike in 2002 was 2,280 cubic inches. It lasted the entire trail, and was large enough to hold winter gear, and up to 6 days of food. To keep my pack weight and pack volume low, I never carry anything that is too big for me. Every superfluous inch of fabric is trimmed off.
I feel that a pack needs a hip belt. Additional food and water may increase the total, finished pack weight to over 35 pounds, a little too much to be suspended just from the shoulders. Also, hip belts help stabilize the load when you are scrambling over rocks. A hip belt can be bought or made, and added to just about any pack, even daypacks with a 2000 cubic inch capacity. Before you go through the trouble of adding a hip belt to a day back, check the structure. I wouldn't use any daypacks with heavy plastic moldings or lengthy metal zippers that could break and leave gear exposed.
For several hundred miles some of us have tested fanny packs as a substitute hip belt. They were kept fully stuffed, worn backwards, and used to support the weight of a pack heavily laden with food. It was tolerable, as long as the fanny pack was full. The belt did tend to bite into my skin when cinched tight enough to support the weight because the fanny pack belt had no padding.
Pack covers and/or plastic garbage bags used as interior pack liners are highly recommended for essential gear such as sleep systems and food items that must be kept dry. The pack cover should have a way to clip it securely to the pack itself, in case of strong winds. Gale force wind has a way of getting behind the cover, working it loose, and sending it sailing away. Garbage bags used on the outside of the pack are fine for awhile, although they can not be secured well, or fitted as snugly. They eventually tear, and must be replaced, sometimes in a town with poor supplies. If you chose to use a garbage bag for a while, buy the heaviest brand available. Most long distance hikers get a pack cover made of fabric. Silnylon pack covers weigh as little as 1.5 ounces.
External Frame Packs
Previously, external packs were considered to be standard equipment. The metal frame has a pack suspended from it, with a hip belt and shoulder straps attached by way of adjustable pins. It used to be all you could get,
except for an army-type rucksack.
Today, youth groups use external packs for several reasons. The metal frames are very durable; some external frame packs are still in use after over 25 years, and 8,000 trail miles. Various and unusual loads can be attached by using stuff sacks and cinch straps. I have seen kettles strapped to them as well as huge loads of bedding and footwear. The adjustable torso length works well for growing kids because the securing pins can attach the belts and straps in any number of holes drilled in the vertical bars for that purpose.
Some adults prefer the external frame because it carries heavy loads so well, transferring weight to the hips. The frame holds the pack slightly away from the back giving better ventilation. An external frame can be leaned against a tree as a backrest. They are easy to pack even when empty because they retain their shape. If the pack fabric wears out, a new pack can be sewn. If the straps or belt become worn, they can be replaced simply by buying a new set, and attaching at the proper points with the easily removable pins and rings.
Several ways to lighten an external frame include cutting off extra loops, and straps. If the pack has sentimental value, I recommend removing it, and letting a skilled seamstress remake it in a lighter fabric, eliminating zippers wherever possible. I remade a pack for Rainmaker out of silnylon, maintaining the exact measurements. The pack weighs only 8 ounces, instead of 24 ounces previously with his original pack. The frame, original hip belt and shoulder straps were kept.
Another way to lighten the external frame pack is to use a "packless" system, described previously in Chapter Three. In preparation for the Pacific Crest Trail in 2001, I removed the pack from my external frame, made some special stuff sacks, and cinched them directly onto the frame. There are instructions for making this type stuff sack in the “Make Your Own Gear” section in Chapter 8.
Internal Frame Packs
I have never owned a bona fide internal frame pack, having gone straight from an external to a non-frame. After trying on some internal frame packs, comparing weights and features, I came to several conclusions.
The hips belts are very well padded. If the torso length is correct, the belt rides comfortably. They are pretty, come with load lift straps, compression straps, and special compartments. However, looking at the weights and the prices was enough to turn me away.
Many packs have a top cover that is removable and can be worn on day hikes. This component alone is about a pound, and overkill for any ultralighting system. If you have an internal pack that you love and it has such a lid system, removing the top portion is an excellent way to lighten the pack.
Backpacker magazine does a yearly gear guide. If you check internal pack stats, you will see that for a pack in the 3500-4500 cubic inch range, weights run nearly 4.5 pounds and more. This is a lot of weight just for the pack. Most internal packs have a much greater capacity, but as already discussed, this weight is wasted because we don't plan to fill this space.
If you decide to go shopping for an internal frame pack, do not let yourself be talked into a heavy, larger pack because the clerk has no experience in ultralight gear. Remember that most of them gain a commission on their sales, and it is their duty to sell you the largest pack possible so that you will buy even more gear to fill it.
Non-Frame Packs
The pack I used for my thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail in 2002 was so light, and so simple, it amazed people. They were surprised that it was durable enough for the entire journey (nearly 5 months) and carried all the weight that was necessary for my hike.
There are several non-frame packs available, and even patterns for sewing your own. Some come with hip belts, and have capacities near 5,000 cubic inches. Most weigh just under a pound. In the “Make Your Own” gear section in Chapter 8, there are directions for sewing my Silnylon pack, which weighed only 9 ounces.
The important thing about non-frame packs is how they are loaded. Mine was so shapeless when empty it resembled a large stuff sack with hip belt and shoulder straps. On really cold nights when I was wearing all my clothes, my pack was rolled up and used as a pillow. Of course, it would make a great vapor barrier foot bag as well, and could be used on the outside or inside of the sleeping bag.
For a sleeping pad, I used a closed cell foam pad trimmed to 19 inches wide by 5 feet long. At this printing, they cost less than $6 and can be trimmed easily. One pad lasted the entire trail for me, about 5 months of hiking. By rolling it up as a cylinder, and leaving room in the center, I could slide it into the pack and form a very stable shape. With the pack's draw cord pulled just enough to hold it up and over the pad, the pack would sit upright when loaded. A shorter pad could be used, but this length was optimal for me, providing insulation in cold weather and also providing a clean area on shelter floors. I always line my pack with a large black garbage bag before loading it.
Some people prefer to use a z-rest. They can shape a non-frame pack by folding it over and using a width of two sections. Then, it is placed inside along the back of the pack. A z-rest will lose its loft after much compression, so take care how tightly it is packed. They cost nearly $30. If you prefer a thermarest, a self-inflating pad, you will not have a rigid pad to use for your pack shape. In that case, just use stuff sacks stacked inside the pack horizontally.
A non-frame pack can have water bottle bags threaded onto the front shoulder straps. Both bottles should have the same capacity, so that they will counter-balance the weight in the pack. Be sure the bags are taller than the bottles, so that they do not slide down and away from the bottles. Otherwise, the bottles may fall out. Mesh pockets sewn to the outside of this type pack work well for carrying shelters, stakes, trowels and anything large enough not to fall through. They are easy to add to packs already purchased.
I found that placing the food bag, minus that day's snacks and lunch, in the bottom of my pack kept the weight at my hips, carrying the load better and closer to my body. When the heavy food sack was placed on top, it tended to shift backwards. After the food sack was placed inside the pack, I placed my sleeping bag with sleeping clothes in another stuff sack. That went in next. The cook set in its own ditty bag, my hygiene bag, and Murphy kit were all placed on top of the sleeping bag. On nice days, my tent went inside the pack next. Lastly, that day's lunch and snacks went on the top, and the plastic bag liner twisted and folded over. The pack has a flap-type lid with pocket. The journal and data sheets went in a top flap pocket. If it was raining, or my tent was wet, it went in an outside mesh pocket. My rain clothes and pack cover were put into separate outside pockets of the pack. Each item was packed this way, so in case of sudden thunderstorm, nothing inside the pack had to be disturbed until it was safely under the tent or inside a shelter. My waterproof watch, razor knife, photon lights and GI-style can opener went inside my short's pocket for easy access.
Shelters
While it seems that tarps have replaced tents in the ultralight community, and that a certain status comes with using a tarp, this is not necessarily recommendable for everyone. A close scrutiny of various features and a realization of one's own hiking style should dictate what type of shelter to use, more than the pressure of trend. If you spend a lot of time in your shelter, for instance, in winter or bad weather, space and comfort will be more important than if you are hiking long days during the summer in pleasant weather or dry climates.
Ultralight shelters designed by long distance hikers have features that eliminate problems found in many tents. Any shelter that can be repaired on the trail using only a needle and thread has advantages over those that have complicated hardware, shock-corded poles, or zippers. Shelters that are designed to use hiking poles for the frame or that have exterior loops for suspending with a rope from a branch is also a big plus. Storm doors and vestibules are options not everyone feels are needed. Storm doors provide weather protection and privacy. Vestibules offer a place to put wet gear or extra water bottles. A poncho can serve as a storm door or vestibule with a basic tarp. Sewn-in overhanging pa
nels provide minimal rain protection with or without a door system. No-see-um netting, sometimes called screen or mesh, protect against insects, rodents and larger animals. It can be sewn onto tarps and shelters, and is an advantage tents have. All options will increase the shelter's weight. You must decide if the benefits merit the weight.
Single wall shelters are lighter than double wall shelters. They do cause more concern over condensation. A wide door and center height of at least three feet reduces problems associated with condensation. With all shelters, pitching in tall grass, camping in damp areas, and closing it completely will increase condensation. When a shelter is closed completely, you can use a camp towel or bandana to wipe off condensation.
An important consideration is the ease of setting up, or pitching the shelter. Always practice pitching a new shelter on a nice day. This is a good time to look for hidden weight. If you need more stakes than anticipated, more guy lines, or to read the instructions, it will be much easier than on the trail in driving rain. Some shelters require more than 6 stakes, many guy lines, additional seam sealing, or a ground cloth. Check to be sure your shelter can be pitched so that there is no sagging. Rain will pool in such conditions, and eventually can wick through. Most fabrics will stretch even after being pitched tight. Readjusting the guy lines before bed is a good idea. If a storm comes through, your shelter will be taut and it will shed rain. A shelter with many seams has potential for more places to leak. Pitch the shelter aerodynamically, with the low side into the wind.
My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking Page 16
