The Cherokee could be set up with only 4 stakes. However, being long and narrow to save weight, the sides tended to slope inward. So, I found myself using the side pull-out loops often. Then, with the high winds encountered in the desert, and in the Sierra, I would also stake each loop by the front poles. This brought the total stakes needed to 8. The Tacoma is exceptionally stable, being a steep angled design. My Tacoma held up to storm and wind with only 6 stakes. I didn’t bring any stakes for the side lifts, and they were less important than those for the Cherokee. When I was hiking the AT, I usually found something to tie those lifts to.
The tapering foot end of the Cherokee was only 20 inches tall which resulted in the bottom half of the tent being used basically just for sleeping. The Tacoma design made the entire floor space accessible; with one entire side being used for the door, which in this trapezoidal configuration, measured 5 feet. When packing up in rain, or confined in the evenings due to high mosquito activity, that spacious feeling was very welcome.
The Cherokee had the mesh door opening to one side and attached on the other. A long Velcro strip held the screen bottom, side of the screen and vestibule door closed, and this represented a total of about 10 feet of Velcro. When taking down the shelter, all Velcro had to be matched carefully, to prevent damage to the mesh. With my Tacoma, the drop-down, draping mesh door had no Velcro, and simply tucked under the bathtubbed floor. The storm door was sewn in on one side, and clipped tightly to the other side, nestling under the beak. This simple design saved weight, prevented damage to the screen, and facilitated a quick take-down and stuffing in the mornings.
They both were gray, single walled, silnylon tents, and worked well as stealth shelters, being nearly undetectable when pitched off trail.
It is difficult to compare condensation, because the climates are so different. In the PCT desert and High Sierra where the Cherokee was tested, it was either dry, or the elevations were over 9,000 feet. When we were in high elevations, the condensation was due to the coolness of the night. On the AT thru-hike, where the Tacoma was tested, it is very damp and rainy. Condensation was wiped down with a bandana on several occasions. On nights that I could leave the door open, very little condensation occurred.
The weights of each tent are similar. The Cherokee weighed 19 ounces. It had an inferior seam sealant. The Tacoma, with its high quality seam sealant, weighed 17 ounces. It is reported as 16 ounces, but after we applied the sealant, it increased to17. With the two additional stakes and back pole needed for the Cherokee, the difference between the weights went up to 4 ounces.
Hopefully this dissertation will aid you in your shelter designs.
You will need to decide which fabric will work for you. One great resource for purchasing all types and weights of fabric and hardware is Quest Outfitters at 4919 Hubner Rd., Sarasota, Florida. Their toll free number is 800-359-6931. They are very helpful and send out a free catalogue upon request, with a lot of useful information. Another supplier is Outdoor Wilderness, at 16415 Midland Blvd., in Nampa, Idaho. Their toll free number is 800-693-7467. Ask for their free, informative catalogue as well. Comparison shop, and ask questions in order to avoid purchasing the wrong materials.
Once you get your fabric, do only minimal cutting to eliminate seams. Practice with a paper or plastic model to get the right angles. Think about doubling fabric over the top of a pocket in order to add a flap, instead of sewing on a flap. The whole piece of gear is stronger when uncut, and will require less reinforcement and seam sealing. This is especially important in shelters, canopy seams, packs and raingear. Eliminate something whose only purpose is decoration. If it’s not functional, then it is wasted weight.
Estimating the Weight
To estimate the weight of any new project, determine the following factors: weight per square foot, or per square yard of any fabrics you intend to use, weight per linear inch of any web straps, Velcro or cordage, and the weights of any hardware or clips which will be needed.
For instance, I had a large piece of egg-carton type foam padding to use for car camping. It weighed 2 pounds, 14 ounces and measured 48 inches wide by 69 inches long. First, I found out how many square inches of foam I had by multiplying 48 by 69, which equaled 3,312 square inches. There are 144 square inches in a square foot (12 x12), so I divided 3312 by 144 and found that this piece of foam is 23 square feet exactly. Two pounds and 14 ounces are 46 ounces. 46 ounces divided by 23 square feet shows me that each square foot will weigh 2 ounces. A sleeping pad, which measures 20 inches wide by 40 inches long, would weigh 11.1 ounces. Twenty inches times forty inches equals 800 square inches. 800 divided by 144 (inches per square foot) is 5.5 square feet. Multiply square feet by its weight and you get the total, which, in this instance, is 11.1 ounces.
Perhaps the weight is given per square yard. This is different than linear yard. A square yard is 36 inches by 36 inches. Some fabrics are 64-66 inches wide. A linear yard of 64-inch fabric actually is 1.7 square yards. Silicone impregnated rip-stop nylon is 1.3 ounces per square yard, no-see-um netting is 1.1 ounces per square yard, and tyvek is 1.85 ounces per square yard. Pack cloth varies in weight, and the weight will usually be listed in the catalogue. 420 denier is quite heavy, weighing 8 ounces per square yard. An oxford 200 denier is only 4 ounces per square yard.
If you are making a project that requires a 120 inch piece of silnylon by its full width, generally 65 inches, we will need to find out how many square yards that is in order to get a weight, because that is the value we know. We are starting with inches and dividing down until we get to square yards. A quick estimate would be 120 inches equals 10 feet, 65 inches are 5.41 feet. Ten feet times 5.41 feet is 54.1 square feet. There are 9 square feet in a yard. So, divide 54.1 square feet by 9 square feet and you get 6.018 square yards of fabric. If the fabric weighs 1.3 ounces per square yard, you have a total of 7.82 ounces. If the fabric is pack cloth, and weighs 8 ounces you have 48.14 ounces. If it’s no-see- um netting, the weight is 6.61 ounces.
A 30-inch lightweight nylon zipper will add about an ounce (28.5 grams), 6 feet of 1 inch wide web strapping will add about 34 grams. Light, plastic buckles weigh 3 grams each, cord locks are 1 gram each, 5/8-inch Velcro is about 10 grams per yard, which includes both hook and loop sides.
Seam sealing of 25 feet of shelter fabric will add between one and two ounces, if used directly on the seam, for a width of no more than ½ inch.
These weights only represent estimates. Fabric weights may vary by 10 % from those listed in the catalogues.
Equipment
A good sewing machine is the first thing you will want for making your own gear. You don't need decorative stitching, so an older machine is fine. It just needs straight stitching, with reverse. If you plan to sew any knit fabrics, using a zigzag stitch will help keep stitches from breaking when the fabric is stretched. Some of the older models have variable needle positions, which is useful when applying zippers. Get to know your machine before embarking on a large or difficult project. Improper threading is the biggest culprit in broken threads and poor tension. If stitches are uneven, or tension is wrong, the seams will be weak. A good cleaning and oiling, and installing sharp, new needles can solve problems, too. I have two older Singer models, made with metal parts, and I love them both.
Sharp shears should be used for the initial cutting of any fabrics. If your scissors are dull, they will not cut precisely, and may even tear the edges. Using your shears on paper will dull them, so keep them separate from other household tools.
Small craft scissors should be used for fine trimming, snipping around corners and cutting lose threads. You don't want to use the big scissors then, because one small clip can ruin gear. These need to be sharp, and pointed.
Thread should be the best you can find in either a 100% nylon or polyester. Do not use a cotton-coated brand. Serger thread, sometimes labeled "for overlock machines", is high quality, comes on a large cone, can be set alongside the machine on the work surface and threaded directl
y onto your sewing machine.
Sewing Needles of the proper size and make are crucial to good stitches. If you insert the needle backwards, or bend the needle, you will have no stitches.
A ballpoint needle is used for any knit fabrics, including fleece. Standard points are used for any woven fabric, including rip-stop. If the fabric stretches, or gets runs, it needs a ballpoint needle. If it frays, or the treads come off in rows, it is woven and needs a standard needle. The size of the needle is also important. Use a smaller size (11 for Singer machines) for silnylon and no-see-um netting. A 14 or 16 can be used when sewing Velcro strips to this fabric. Pack cloth will also require a heavier, size 16-needle. Be sure you buy the brand that fits your machine. Periodically change needles to maintain a sharp point.
A Cord threader that can be made from a plastic margarine lid is useful for threading cords through the casings of hoods, ditty bags and stuff sacks. At one time, I used a safety pin, but that caused some scoring of the silnylon casing, which would rip later. To make a threader, cut a piece of durable plastic the size of a whole almond. In the center of this shape, cut a small hole. To use your threader, pull the first 6 inches of cord through the hole and fold the cord over, as you would thread a needle. This will keep the cord from coming out of the threader and getting lost inside the casing. When drawing elastic cord through pack covers, tie a double knot to prevent trouble. The perimeter of a pack cover can be nearly 15 feet long, and if you lose your elastic half way through, it's quite aggravating.
Safety pins are useful for holding silnylon together. Some people use straight pins when sewing, but they will slide out of this slippery fabric. Straight pins will work fine in fleece and taffeta. Place pins in the seam allowances to prevent small holes, which could cause leaking, if not seam sealed. Lay heavy objects like books on top of silnylon when cutting on a flat surface. This will help hold the fabric in place without marring it.
Chalk and black marking pens are used to mark the positions for staking loops, cutting lines, placement of Velcro tabs, zippers, and pockets. Chalk works well on silnylon. Marking pens can also be used, but may rub off before drying. They may also permanently discolor the main area. Try to mark in seam allowances, or where a loop will cover this mark. You may not be able to remove any marks later.
Measuring devices such as a metal carpenter's square, plastic tape measurer 120 inches long, and a heavy-duty yardstick are all great tools. A 25-foot retractable metal tape measure is wonderful, too. When cutting large projects you will want a long straight edge, such as an 8-foot long 2x2 or "quarter-round" for marking long, straight lines.
A seam ripper is actually a small tool with a plastic handle and sharp pointed end, tiny enough to "pick" out the smallest stitches. If you ask anyone working at a sewing department, they will show you. Maybe they call it a ripper because that's what you feel like doing. But, your patience will pay off when you pick out the seam and resew it neatly.
A Candle or other method is needed for heat-sealing the cut edges of silnylon and rip-stop. Some people use a hot knife or a soldering tool with flat blade. Allow the soldering tool to get good and hot, and keep the blade at a 45-degree angle, to prevent tearing. Place some protective board under the fabric to prevent marring of the cutting surface. Silnylon will catch on fire, so be very careful when heat sealing the raw edges of any fabric. While the tools are cooling, they are still capable of burning the fabric, so take precautions to keep your project well away from heat sources.
Other Useful Items or things you might really like to have are paper or plastic real size patterns. These can be transferred from scale drawings to 2-mil plastic sheeting before tracing the figures directly to your silnylon. A simple calculator for figuring angles and weights is very handy, enabling you to double check figures if you have a basic understanding of geometry. An electronic gram/ounce scale for keeping track of weights on your projects in progress is good to have. I always keep a pencil and notebook handy to record notes as I go, for future reference. A large work area, with table and space to spread out the fabric, some good music and a pot of hot coffee, is a sewer's heaven.
Getting Started
This book about ultralight backpacking and all the patterns have been copyrighted. They are the result of countless hours of sewing, designing, testing, and writing. A lot of energy, time and money have been spent on this project. Please respect my rights to this material, and do not copy it for another’s use.
Hopefully there will be many projects you plan to try once you have the tools listed above to sew your own gear. I encourage you to start with something simple, especially if your experience with a sewing machine is limited. A ditty bag, or fleece watch cap would be a great beginning project. They require few seams, and not a lot of fabric. You can make either out of a remnant of fabric not suggested, just to get the feel for the instructions.
There are several ways of doing anything. The directions here are my ways, in general, with compromise and consideration given for the benefit of a new sewer. Over the years, a person develops shortcuts, but I avoid describing the more difficult ones, and instead give the ones that are easiest to follow. Unfortunately, no video has yet been made for demonstration purposes. Hands-on is always the best teacher, but the written word has served to relay the world’s cumulative knowledge for centuries.
Keeping a Positive Outlook
If you passed kindergarten, you learned to follow directions. Sometimes, a whole page of directions seems to make no sense. At that point, simply stop, get a cup of coffee, and read the first line. Even though I encourage you to read everything before proceeding, to sort of see where you are heading, still it’s always one step at a time.
Then, having read the first line, do it. Repeat all through the pattern. Soon, you will find yourself reading several steps, and seeing the trend, and proceeding with confidence.
My method is to do everything possible to each single piece before adding it to the main project. That way, you are working with small parts, and combining them last. If a mistake is made on one detail before adding it to the main project, it will be much easier to fix, and you won't have to rip it all off if it needs redoing. I think you will be successful with this method.
If you learned to ride a bike, you can learn to operate a sewing machine. I met one man who sewed extremely well, but he did everything by hand. His internal frame pack was an excellent product, but it took him weeks to complete. Learning to operate a sewing machine is a worthwhile endeavor, and each encounter will make the next one easier.
There is no sewer alive who hasn't ripped out a seam, or discarded a mistake. If you see a large project you would like to try, but are uncertain, get some inexpensive material to practice with. Fabric can be manipulated easily with a scissors, needle and thread. It can be marked, pinned and tested. You can add fabric back to your project by using another seam, or you can take in another seam and trim it down. Field repairs are always possible, because you made it.
Common Sewing Terms
Seam Allowance
The seam allowance is the fabric at the edge of the pieces where they are joined together by stitching. In some patterns, the seam allowance is 1 inch, in others it is only ¾ or ½ inch. Stay within the seam allowance to mark or baste so these aids won't show on the finished product.
Heat sealing the fabric edges.
Unfinished cut edges of rip-stop nylon, siliconized nylon, web strapping or pack cloth will fray if subjected to pulling and friction. These fabrics are flammable, so be careful if you choose to heal seal the edges. Light a candle, and run the length of the cut edge about 1/4 - 1/2 inch away from the flame, but do not let it touch the flame. It will shrink back just a bit, and form a tight, crisp edge. Practice on a scrap first, being careful not to scorch or burn your fabric. It will be easier to do it piece by piece, rather than at the end, when the project is larger and more complex. By heat-sealing the fabric, you prevent raveling later on, and avoid problems of failing seams.
Seam Sealing
One hundred percent silicone works best on all shelter fabrics. You can buy this in caulk tubes in the hardware department, which are designed to be used with a caulk-gun. Smaller, squeezable tubes are available, but they are more expensive.
Place a small amount of silicone in a plastic jar lid. With one finger, or a soft application tool, spread the silicone smoothly into flattened seam. Be careful not to let the fabric get bunched up, or it will dry this way permanently. Within half an hour of application, recheck the seam to be sure it is properly set and not attaching to itself.
Allow all seam sealing to dry completely before packing it away, for a minimum of 24 hours. If it is the least damp, it could become sealed together permanently.
Seam Finishing
A good method of finishing seams on silnylon projects is to heat seal them, then double roll edges together and topstitch. This prevents raveling and strengthens the seam. If you are using a fabric blend that doesn’t respond to heat-sealing, you can either double roll the edge and stitch, or use a zigzag stitch to finish the edge, or use a pinking shears to finish the edge. If it is fleece or a knit, the seam does not require any finish. A second row of stitching, 1/8 inch from the first seam, is always a wise move on high-use items.
My Journey to Freedom and Ultralight Backpacking Page 21
