To make the sweet and sour sauce: In a small bowl, combine the water and cornstarch, and stir to mix them well. Set aside. Combine the chicken stock, vinegar, sugar, ketchup, and pineapple juice in a small saucepan. Stir with a fork or a whisk to combine everything well. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat and cook 1 minute. Stir in the cornstarch mixture and cook just until the sauce becomes shiny and thickened. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Set a serving platter by the stove, to hold the peppers and onions after their initial cooking, as well as the finished dish.
Heat a wok or a large, deep skillet over high heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the ginger and garlic, toss well, and cook until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add the bell peppers and onions and cook, tossing often, until fragrant and beginning to wilt. Add the pineapple and cook 1 minute more. Scoop the mixture onto the serving platter, leaving as much liquid behind as possible, and set aside.
Let the pan heat up again, and scatter in the pork. Spread it out into a single layer, and cook undisturbed until the edges change color, about 30 seconds. Toss well and cook, tossing often, until most of the pork is no longer pink.
Add the sherry–soy sauce mixture and toss well. Return the bell pepper mixture to the pan and toss to mix everything together well. Add the sweet-and-sour sauce and cook, tossing often, until all the ingredients are evenly seasoned. Add the green onion and toss again. Transfer to a serving platter and serve hot or warm.
PORK WITH BLACK BEAN SAUCE
Salty meets smooth in this classic stir-fry combination pairing the richness of pork with the salty counterpoint of fermented black beans. You’ll mix three different seasonings prior to cooking this dish, but once you’ve done that, the dish comes together quickly. We love this with Egg Flower Soup (page 38) and lots of rice to capture every bit of irresistible black bean sauce.
3 tablespoons chicken stock or water
2 tablespoons dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine
2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon sugar
¾ pound thinly sliced pork
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fermented black beans
2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
¾ cup 2-inch strips green bell pepper
2 tablespoons chopped green onion
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
SERVES 4
Combine the chicken stock, sherry, and water in a small bowl, and stir well and set aside. Combine the soy sauce, cornstarch, and sugar in a medium bowl, and stir to dissolve the cornstarch and sugar. Add the pork, stir well, and set aside for 15 minutes.
Combine the black beans, ginger, and garlic in another small bowl. Stir well to combine into a coarse paste.
Heat a wok or a large, deep skillet over high heat. Add the vegetable oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the pork and spread it out into a single layer. Cook undisturbed until it changes color around the edges, about 30 seconds, then toss. Continue cooking, tossing occasionally, until no longer pink, about 1 minute more.
Add the bell pepper strips and cook, tossing often, until they are shiny and beginning to wilt, about 1 minute. Add the black bean mixture and toss well. Add the chicken stock mixture and cook, tossing occasionally, until the sauce comes to a gentle boil.
When the pork is cooked through, the peppers are tender, and the seasonings combine into a smooth sauce, add the green onion and sesame oil, toss well, and transfer to a serving plate. Serve hot or warm.
MA PO TOFU
With its plush texture and complex flavors, this dish is a favorite with my family. I use firm tofu, but soft tofu works fine, too. It may crumble a bit, but that suits the texture of this dish. If you don’t have hot bean sauce or Szechuan peppercorns, don’t worry; you can still make a tasty version without them. If you can’t find firm tofu, see page 178 for instructions on pressing soft tofu into firm tofu.
1 pound firm tofu
2 tablespoons hot bean sauce or
1 tablespoon hoisin and
1 tablespoon chili-garlic sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ teaspoon dark soy sauce or molasses (optional)
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons water
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
¼ cup chopped green onion
½ pound ground pork
1/3 cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
1 teaspoon Toasted Szechuan Peppercorns (optional; page 176)
SERVES 4
NOTE Tofu is sometimes sold in 14-ounce containers, and one of those will be sufficient to make this dish. Hot bean sauce is a chile-fired version of brown bean sauce, a thick, salty seasoning made from salted, fermented soybeans. You can mix equal parts of brown bean sauce or hoisin with chile-garlic sauce for a good substitute in many recipes.
Chop the tofu into ½-inch chunks and set aside. In a small bowl, combine the hot bean sauce, soy sauce, dark soy sauce, if using, sugar, and salt. Stir well to mix them into a smooth sauce. In another small bowl, combine the water and cornstarch. Stir well to dissolve the cornstarch, leaving the spoon in the bowl for a final stir.
Heat a wok or a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat, and add the vegetable oil. Swirl to coat the pan evenly. Add the garlic, ginger, and half the green onion, and toss until they release their fragrance.
Add the pork, and use your spatula or a large spoon to chop and press it out into a single layer. Let it cook undisturbed until the edges change color, about 30 seconds. Toss well and cook until most of the meat has changed color, about 1 minute more.
Add the hot bean sauce mixture and cook, tossing often, until the meat is evenly seasoned. Add the chicken stock and the tofu and cook, tossing gently now and then, until the pork is cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes more.
Give the cornstarch mixture a final stir and add it to the pan. Toss well to mix in and let it thicken the sauce, about 15 seconds. Remove from the heat and quickly add the sesame oil, Szechuan peppercorns, if using, and remaining green onion. Toss well, transfer to a serving plate, and serve hot or warm.
LION’S HEAD MEATBALLS
No lions here—just oversized pork meatballs (a lion’s head) simmered with napa cabbage (his flowing mane) in a tasty broth. Even if you don’t see the resemblance, you will love the satisfying simplicity of this dish. Cooking time is long, but once you’ve assembled the meatballs and put the dish on simmer, the work is done and the reward is worth the wait. You can make this in a wok, a large Dutch oven, or a Chinese-style clay pot, either on top of the stove or in the oven.
FOR THE MEATBALLS
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine
1 teaspoon salt
1 beaten egg
1 pound ground pork
3 tablespoons chopped green onion
2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger
FOR THE SOUP
1 medium head napa cabbage (about 1 ¼ pounds) or bok choy
½ cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
SERVES 4
NOTE If you want to use a casserole dish, you can brown the meatballs and cabbage in a wok or skillet and transfer them to the casserole. If it is safe for stovetop use, you could brown them in the casserole. To cook in the oven, place the assembled dish of cabbage, meatballs, and seasonings in a 300°F oven and cook for about 1 hour, until the meatballs are cooked through. Transfer to a serving bowl or serve directly from the casserole.
To make the meatballs: In a large bowl, combine the soy sauce, sher
ry, salt, and egg. Stir well with a fork or a whisk to combine everything evenly. Add the ground pork, green onion, and ginger. Using your hands or a wooden spoon, mix the meat and seasonings to combine them smoothly and very well. Shape into 4 plump balls, and flatten each one slightly, like big, rounded burgers. Set aside on a plate.
To make the soup: Trim the napa cabbage, discarding the outer leaves. Quarter it lengthwise, and then chop it crosswise into 2-inch lengths. Measure out 6 cups of cabbage pieces into a large bowl, reserving any remaining cabbage for another dish. In a medium bowl, combine the chicken stock, soy sauce, sugar, and salt and stir to dissolve the sugar and salt.
In a wok, heat the oil over medium-high heat until a bit of cabbage sizzles at once. Add two of the meatballs and cook on one side until nicely browned, about 2 minutes. Gently turn them over and brown the other side well. Carefully return the partly cooked meatballs to the plate, and brown the other two in the same way.
Let the oil heat up again, and then add the chopped napa cabbage. Cook, tossing now and then, until the cabbage is shiny and beginning to soften, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and return about half the cabbage to the bowl.
Carefully place the four meatballs on top of the cabbage in the wok, and cover them with the remaining leaves. Add the chicken stock mixture, return the pan to the stove, and bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat.
Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, cover, and cook 30 minutes, until the meatballs are done and the cabbage is tender. Remove from the heat and transfer to a large serving bowl. Serve hot.
CHAR SHIU PORK
Bright red on the outside and lusciously salty-sweet in its flavor, Chinese-style barbecued pork is Asian fast food at its best. Home cooks, street vendors, and restaurateurs buy it by the pound from Chinese barbecue shops, which also sell roast duck, roast chicken, and roast pork, among other items. Char shiu pork is a versatile ingredient enhancing stir-fries, soups, and noodle dishes. Thinly sliced and tossed in a hot pan with ginger and garlic and a little oil, it makes a terrific quick meal over rice, with sliced cucumbers on the side for a cool, green crunch. My home-style version lacks the delicious charred flavor bestowed by a professional oven, as well as the red food coloring which creates its trademark color, but it makes an absolutely wonderful and useful dish.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons ketchup
2 tablespoons dry sherry or Shaoxing rice wine
2 tablespoons dark brown or light brown sugar
1 tablespoon finely minced garlic
2 teaspoons dark soy sauce or molasses
1 teaspoon paprika
2 pounds boneless pork, preferably fatty pork shoulder, pork butt, or country-style pork ribs
¼ cup honey
2 tablespoons hot water
MAKES ABOUT 1 POUND BARBECUED PORK
NOTE You can use pork tenderloin in this recipe, but the meat will be a little drier and less rich than a classic version of char shiu pork. Reduce the cooking time, as it will be done faster than fattier cuts of pork. If you like, you can reserve the marinade and baste the pork before you turn it midway through the cooking process.
In a large bowl, combine the soy sauce, hoisin sauce, ketchup, sherry, brown sugar, garlic, dark soy sauce, and paprika. Stir with a whisk or a fork to combine everything evenly and well.
Cut the pork with the grain into long, plump strips, about 2 inches in diameter. (Boneless country-style ribs are just the right size already.) Immerse the pork strips in the soy sauce mixture and turn to coat them evenly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and as long as 8 hours.
To cook the pork, heat the oven to 375°F. Place an ovenproof rack on a roasting pan, and add water to a depth of ½ inch in the pan. Remove the pork from the soy sauce mixture, and place the strips on the rack over the water, several inches apart. Roast for 30 minutes.
Reduce the heat to 350°F, and turn the pork pieces over to cook them evenly. Cook for about 20 minutes more.
While the pork is cooking, combine the honey and hot water in a large bowl, and stir to mix them well.
When the pork is done, remove from the oven and dip each strip into the warm honey glaze. Set aside to cool to room temperature. To serve, slice thinly across the grain. To keep, leave the pork pieces whole, and cover and refrigerate them for up to 5 days. Or freeze them, whole and well wrapped, for up to 1 month.
fish & shellfish
SHRIMP WITH TINY PEAS
GRILLED GINGER SHRIMP
SHRIMP WITH ZUCCHINI AND SWEET RED PEPPERS
PAN-FRIED SNAPPER WITH AROMATIC SOY SAUCE
HALIBUT STEAMED WITH FRESH GINGER
SALMON WITH GINGER AND ONIONS
SHRIMP EGG FOO YONG
CLAMS WITH BLACK BEAN SAUCE
You know already that fish and shellfish cook quickly, but you may not know how extraordinarily delicious they can be when prepared the Chinese way. Principle number one for Asian cooks in general is that the edible treasures harvested from rivers and oceans should be left alone as far as possible, to show off their natural flavors and textures.
This means that fish and shellfish can all be part of your busy-day menus. Start with shrimp, which make the most beautiful stir-fry of all in my opinion, and for the smallest amount of effort compared to slicing meat and stirring together complex sauces. Shrimp with Tiny Peas (page 103) is gorgeous; it’s dazzling enough for a party and simple enough for supper in a bowl over rice.
Shrimp with Zucchini and Sweet Red Peppers (page 106) makes a speedy supper on a hot summer night when you don’t want too much stove time before dinner. A stop at the farmers’ market will give you peppers and zucchini, and ripe tomatoes and crisp cucumbers that you can slice and dress with salt and pepper to call it a meal. If you can find them at the beach or elsewhere, purchase flavorful wild-caught shrimp; buy a supply to freeze for stir-fries, or for Grilled Ginger Shrimp (page 104), in the days ahead.
Here you’ll find outstanding dishes featuring fish, from Pan-Fried Snapper with Aromatic Soy Sauce (page 107) and Halibut Steamed with Fresh Ginger (page 109) to Salmon with Ginger and Onions (page 111). Clams with Black Bean Sauce (page 115) taste fabulous with the traditional accompaniment of rice, or as a pasta dish, scooped onto a plate of linguine for an Eastern spin on the Italian classic.
Shrimp Egg Foo Yong (page 112) is a traditional dish that combines shellfish with eggs. The results are delicious and will convince you that eggs shouldn’t be exiled to the breakfast menu, as we tend to do in the West.
In addition to these recipes for the fish and shellfish beloved within Chinese cuisine, consider some of the sauces in the basics chapter at the end of the book as accompaniments for your standard repertoire of fish and shellfish. Next time you’re grilling salmon or tuna steaks, or sautéing big, sweet scallops, or preparing freshly caught trout or bluefish, cook them simply the way you know and love, and then give them a quick-and-easy Chinese finish with a fantastic, flavorful dip or sauce.
SHRIMP With Tiny Peas
This dish of plump pink shrimp dotted with spring-green peas is the quintessential stir-fry: simple in concept, short on ingredients, and long on flavor. You can use regular-sized frozen peas, or edamame beans, instead of petite peas. Fresh peas work beautifully if you cook them in advance of adding them to the pan, so that they are tender when the shrimp is done.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped garlic
¼ cup coarsely chopped onion
½ pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup frozen tiny peas
¼ cup chicken broth or water
2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onion
SERVES 4
In a wok or a large, deep skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and toss well. Add the onion and cook 1 minute,
tossing once or twice.
Scatter in the shrimp and spread them out in a single layer to cook on one side for about 1 minute more. Toss well, and then let the shrimp cook on the other side for about 30 seconds.
Add the soy sauce, sugar, salt, and peas, and then toss well. Add the chicken broth and cook 1 to 2 minutes more, until the shrimp are just cooked through. Scatter in the green onion, toss once more, and transfer to a serving plate. Serve hot or warm.
GRILLED GINGER SHRIMP
A simple ginger-soy marinade seasons shrimp in less than one hour, and a brief blast of heat—whether it’s a quick turn on the grill, in a grill pan, or in a hot oven—bestows fantastic flavor and color. I love these with Tangy Plum Sauce (page 174), but they’re wonderful with a great salsa or a spicy-hot dipping sauce. I like to leave the tails and first joint of the shell on, while breaking off and discarding the small pointed piece attached at the base of the tail. Leaving the tail on helps you turn the shrimp with tongs while they are cooking on the grill and adds beautiful color as well. You could also thread the marinated shrimp onto bamboo skewers, about three per skewer, before or after cooking.
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger
2 teaspoons chopped garlic
1 tablespoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon Asian sesame oil
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 pound medium shrimp, tails left on but peeled and deveined Tangy Plum Sauce (page 174) or Sweet-and-Sour Dipping Sauce (page 172)
SERVES 4 TO 6
In a medium bowl, combine the ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, and salt, stirring well to dissolve the sugar and salt. Add the shrimp and turn to season them evenly with the marinade. Cover, and place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes or as long as 2 hours.
To cook the shrimp, place them on skewers if using, or on the lightly oiled surface of a hot grill. Cook 2 minutes on one side, and then turn to cook the other side for 1 to 2 minutes more. Cut into a large shrimp at its plumpest part to see whether it is cooked through completely.
Transfer the shrimp to a serving plate and serve hot or warm with Tangy Plum Sauce or Sweet-and-Sour Dipping Sauce.
Quick & Easy Chinese Page 7
