Remove from the heat and allow the pears to cool to room temperature in the liquid. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.
To serve, drain the pears and place on dessert plates. Strain the poaching syrup into a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook until the poaching liquid is reduced by half and thickens to the consistency of maple syrup, about 10 minutes. Serve the pears drizzled with the spiced syrup, or with Caramel Ginger Sauce, if using.
CANDIED WALNUTS
This simple recipe transforms tasty walnuts into crispy, sweet-tinged treats that work wonderfully as snacks or as celestial additions to stir-fried dishes. Make a lot so that you have some for nibbling, some for cooking, and some for sharing. Because you will need to move quickly with boiling water and hot sugar as you make this dish, I’ve given detailed directions for setting out necessary equipment before you begin cooking.
¾ cup sugar
3 cups walnut halves
4 cups vegetable oil for frying
2 teaspoons salt
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
NOTE Remove the walnuts from the hot oil before they are exactly the color you want because they continue cooking for a short time once they are out of the oil. Keep a few raw walnuts handy on a small plate, to help you judge how much they have colored. Things happen fast here: better to take them out early than to let them burn; they will still be delicious.
In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring 6 cups of water to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, place a colander or a large strainer in the sink for draining the walnuts. Pour the sugar into a large mixing bowl and set out a large wooden spoon or a rubber spatula with which to stir the nuts. Set out a large baking sheet, for spreading out the nuts before and after frying.
When the water comes to a rolling boil, add the walnuts and stir well. When they return to a boil, let them cook for 1 minute, and then drain them into the colander in the sink.
Quickly transfer the walnuts to the mixing bowl, and toss and stir quickly in order to coat them evenly with the sugar. Keep stirring until they have cooled off somewhat and ceased to absorb any more sugar. Turn the sugared walnuts out onto the baking sheet, and scatter them into a single layer of nuts.
To fry the sugared nuts, heat the oil in a wok or large, deep skillet over medium heat until hot, about 350°F. Have a slotted spoon or a large spoon and a strainer handy, so that you can scoop out the nuts when they are nearly done.
When a small piece of walnut sizzles at once, add half the sugared walnuts to the oil. Stir gently to separate them as the oil bubbles up and they begin to brown. Watch carefully, and scoop them out as soon as their color approaches a handsome golden brown.
Transfer the walnuts carefully to the baking sheet and quickly spread them out in a single layer to cool completely. Repeat with the remaining sugared walnuts. When all the walnuts are cooked and cooled, sprinkle them with the salt and toss well.
Transfer to an airtight container, and store at room temperature for up to 1 week.
sauces & other basic recipes
GINGER-SOY DIPPING SAUCE
CHILI-VINEGAR SAUCE
SWEET-AND-SOUR DIPPING SAUCE
TANGY PLUM SAUCE
HOT CHILI OIL
BROWN SAUCE
TOASTED SZECHUAN PEPPERCORNS
CARAMEL GINGER SAUCE
FIRM TOFU
MANDARIN PANCAKES
Here, you will find a repertoire of finishing touches, a line-up of delectable, intriguing sauces with which to accent recipes in this book. You’ll also find instructions for preparing Firm Tofu (page 178), an excellent addition to stir-fried dishes and soups whether you use it as an addition to meat or in creating vegetarian dishes with Chinese flavors. It’s used as an ingredient in such dishes as Hot and Sour Soup (page 44) and can be made easily at home for those who can’t readily buy it, or who enjoy the appealing texture that the homemade version provides.
Mandarin Pancakes (page 179) are simple flatbreads, served with Mu Shu Pork (page 87) and Peking duck in Chinese restaurants in the West. I love their chewy texture and enjoy them with any stir-fry which isn’t accompanied by lots of sauce. Try them as a small wrap for slices of Char Shiu Pork (page 98) or Sesame Beef (page 76), along with shredded lettuce and chopped tomatoes. Make them two or three times and you’ll be able to do it with pleasure and ease.
The assortment of dipping sauces and seasonings are all quickly made: Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce (page 171), Chili-Vinegar Sauce (page 171), are merely stirred together. Try the Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce with boiled shrimp, crisp fried tofu, or grilled salmon when you want great Chinese flavor fast. Caramel Ginger Sauce (page 177) provides a luxurious finish to Five-Spice Poached Pears (page 165) and makes ice cream a dazzling treat, should you wish to enhance it with dollops of the luscious sauce.
Sweet-and-Sour Dipping Sauce (page 172), Tangy Plum Sauce (page 174), and Hot Chili Oil (page 175) each take a few minutes on the stove, but none is elaborate and each will keep for a day or two after it’s made. These sauces and seasonings are all the inspiration you need to bring quick and easy Chinese flavors into your kitchen, even on busy days.
GINGER-SOY DIPPING SAUCE
This sauce is a standard accompaniment for potstickers. Vinegar and ginger provide a vibrant counterpoint to the richness of the dumplings.
¼ cup soy sauce
3 tablespoons white vinegar or apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
½ teaspoon salt
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
Combine the soy sauce, vinegar, ginger, sugar, sesame oil, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk or stir well to dissolve the sugar and salt, and mix everything together into a thin, smooth sauce.
CHILI-VINEGAR SAUCE
This simple condiment provides a satisfyingly sharp contrast to the rich, dark flavors of Soy Sauce Noodles with Beef and Greens (page 145) and other dishes. The hot chiles can be serranos, jalapeños, or even tiny Thai chiles if you love hot and spicy flavors.
½ cup white vinegar
½ teaspoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons chopped or thinly sliced fresh hot green chiles
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
Combine the vinegar, soy sauce, and chiles in a small bowl, and stir well. Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
SWEET-AND-SOUR DIPPING SAUCE
I love the sunset color and piquant flavor of this simple dipping sauce. Made with canned pineapple juice for an extra burst of sweet-and-sour flavor, it tastes wonderful with grilled or fried foods. I love it with fresh raw or steamed vegetables and rice, when I need to round out a quick stir fry. The liquid from a can of pineapple chunks or rings works fine here, if you don’t have pineapple juice proper.
1/3 cup pineapple juice
1/3 cup white vinegar or apple cider vinegar
1/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon ketchup
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons water
2 teaspoons cornstarch
MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP
In a medium saucepan, combine the pineapple juice, vinegar, sugar, ketchup, and salt. Stir everything together well. In a small bowl, combine the water and cornstarch and stir until smooth.
Bring the pineapple juice mixture to a gentle boil over medium heat, and cook for 2 minutes, stirring often to dissolve the sugar and mix everything well.
Stir in the cornstarch mixture, watching as the sauce becomes first cloudy and then clear within just a few seconds. Stir well as it thickens to a satiny smooth texture with big bubbles, about 15 seconds more. Remove from the heat, transfer to a bowl, and cool to room temperature. Transfer to a jar and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
(left to right) Tangy Plum Sauce, Sweet-and-Sour Dipping Sauce, Ginger-Soy Dipping Sauce
TANGY PLUM SAUCE
This dip uses bottled plum sauce, widely available in Asian markets and often in supermarkets as well. Made from a traditio
nal salt-preserved plum, it has a marvelously sweet-and-sharp flavor that goes nicely with grilled and fried dishes. You could also use duck sauce, a popular sweet-and-sour dipping sauce which is easy to find. (To brighten the flavor of plain prepared duck sauce, stir in a squeeze of lemon or lime juice or a dash or two of vinegar before serving.)
½ cup prepared Chinese-style plum sauce or duck sauce
1 tablespoon white vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon light-brown or dark-brown sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP
Combine the plum sauce, vinegar, brown sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. Whisk or stir well to dissolve the sugar and salt and mix everything together well.
HOT CHILI OIL
This incendiary condiment graces noodle shop tables throughout Asia and makes a versatile addition to your sauce and seasoning shelf. A simple concoction of coarsely ground red pepper flakes cooked briefly in hot oil, it can be spooned onto noodles or soups, or added to dipping sauces and salad dressings. You can scoop up both flakes and oil, or spoon out only the rust-colored oil. The chiles burn easily during the cooking process, so have a big bowl handy in which to turn out the chili oil as soon as it is ready.
1/3 cup vegetable oil
½ cup coarsely ground red pepper flakes (see Note)
MAKES ABOUT 1/3 CUP
NOTE Red pepper flakes work well in this recipe, but if you adore chili heat and want a stellar version, grind whole dried red chile peppers yourself. Use dried chiles de arbol or chiles japones, widely available in supermarkets; or small dried red chiles found in Asian markets, often imported from Thailand, Korea, or China. Break off and discard the stem ends, and then transfer the chiles to a small food processor or a blender. Grind until you have small chili flakes and seeds, pulsing the motor as you go. Don’t forget to clean your food processor or blender very well.
Place a heatproof medium bowl next to the stove for the finished chili oil.
Heat the oil in a small saucepan over medium heat until it is hot enough to sizzle a red pepper flake on contact. Add the red pepper flakes and stir well. They should bubble and sizzle in a lively way. Continue stirring, and as soon as they have colored just a little, pour the chili oil, including the red pepper flakes, into the bowl.
Let the chili oil cool to room temperature. Transfer to a glass jar and cover tightly. Store at room temperature for up to 1 month.
BROWN SAUCE
This simple sauce is the standard accompaniment to Chinese American–style egg foo yong. You can make it up to 2 hours ahead, refrigerate it, and then warm it gently just before serving. Pour it over the hot omelets just before serving them, or offer it on the side in a small bowl or pitcher.
½ cup, plus 2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons soy sauce
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons cornstarch
¼ teaspoon Asian sesame oil
MAKES ABOUT 2/3 CUP
Combine the ½ cup of water and the soy sauce, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a rolling boil and stir to dissolve the sugar and salt.
Combine the cornstarch and 2 tablespoons water in a small bowl and stir well. Add to the pan and stir quickly to mix it into the sauce. As soon as the mixture thickens and returns to a boil, remove from the heat, stir in the sesame oil, and set aside. Serve hot or warm.
TOASTED SZECHUAN PEPPERCORNS
These will add more depth to your dishes than regular ground pepper. Toasting heightens their flavor, which provides a rustic kick.
¼ cup raw Szechuan peppercorns
MAKES ABOUT ⅓ CUP
To toast the peppercorns, place them in a small, dry skillet over medium heat. Cook, shaking the pan to heat them evenly and well, until they have darkened a little and released their fragrance, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a saucer to cool, and then grind them to a fairly smooth powder. Store in a tightly sealed jar for up to 3 weeks.
CARAMEL GINGER SAUCE
Fresh ginger brightens this simple dessert sauce, which provides a luscious finish to Five-Spice Poached Pears (page 165) or bowls of ice cream. If you’re making this sauce in advance, know that it may turn grainy after it cools and don’t despair. Rewarm it gently on the stove or in a microwave oven, and its smooth texture comes right back.
1 cup heavy (whipping) cream or evaporated milk
10 thin slices fresh ginger
2 cups dark-brown or light-brown sugar
6 tablespoons butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
Heat the cream in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until steaming hot. Add the ginger, stir well, remove from the heat, and set aside to steep for 5 minutes.
Add the brown sugar, butter, and corn syrup, and bring to a gentle boil over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until the butter has melted, the sugar has dissolved, and everything combines and thickens into a smooth, shiny sauce, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat.
Using a fork, scoop out and discard the slices of ginger. Serve warm. If preparing in advance, set aside to cool completely, and then transfer to a jar or other covered container and refrigerate up to one week. Rewarm gently before serving.
FIRM TOFU
Supermarkets and Asian grocery stores usually carry tofu in an array of textures, from silken to soft to extra firm. Soft tofu can be transformed into sturdy tofu that takes well to stir-frying. Simply press it between two plates long enough to extract some of its water content. The shape will be wonderfully odd after pressing, but the texture will be pleasing and perfect for cooking. Pressing soft tofu will produce half its weight in firm tofu.
1 pound soft or medium tofu
MAKES ABOUT 8 OUNCES VERY FIRM TOFU
Set out two kitchen towels and two dinner plates. Fold one kitchen towel in half and place it on a dinner plate. Place a second kitchen towel over the towel on the dinner plate, opening it up and centering it on the plate.
Cut the block of tofu into four pieces. Place the large tofu pieces in the center of the open towel, about 1 inch apart. Fold the towel in so that the tofu is loosely but firmly enclosed in a cloth packet. Set the plate of tofu in the sink, or in a large rimmed baking pan, so that the liquid to be released by the tofu won’t spill onto the countertop. Set the other dinner plate on top of the tofu, and press down gently to balance it. Place a heavy object, such as 4 unopened cans of food, or a full teakettle, on the plate to press down on the soft tofu within.
Let this improvised, low-tech press do its job of pressing water out of the tofu blocks for as little as 30 minutes, or as long as 2 hours. The longer the pressing, the firmer the tofu.
Remove the weights and the top plate, and unwrap the kitchen towel enclosing the tofu. Transfer to a covered container and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
MANDARIN PANCAKES
I love making these simple flatbreads, because they taste wonderful and because they seem difficult but aren’t. Step-by-step you simply stir, knead, shape, and roll, and you’re a minute or two away from a warm round of tasty bread. Fill pancakes with Mu Shu Pork (page 87) or chunks of roast chicken with cucumbers and hoisin sauce. Recruit a partner or a circle of friends to make preparing this recipe extra simple and fun. You can make these ahead and reheat them gently by steaming them or turning each one a few times in a hot, dry skillet just before serving time.
2 cups flour
½ cup boiling water
2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
MAKES 16 PANCAKES
Pour the flour into a medium bowl and add the boiling water. Quickly and vigorously stir to bring the two ingredients together into a rough dough, using a fork or a wooden spoon.
When the dough is cool enough to touch, gather it up and place it on a lightly floured work surface.
Set a timer and knead the dough until it is tender and smooth, about 10 minutes. Cove
r with the bowl in which you mixed it or a kitchen towel and set aside to rest for about 15 minutes, or as long as 1 hour.
To divide the dough into 16 pieces, form it first into a 12-inch log. Cut the log into 8 pieces, and then cut each piece in half for a total of 16 pieces of dough. Roll each one into a smooth ball, flatten it into a disk, dab a little sesame oil on top, and then press all the disks together in pairs, sesame-oiled sides in. You’ll have 8 little double-layered disks of dough.
On a lightly floured work surface, roll each disk into a thin pancake, 5 to 6 inches in diameter. Aim for roundness, but don’t worry if you don’t make perfect circles.
To cook the pancakes, heat a large skillet over medium-low heat until hot. Place one double-layer pancake in the center of the pan and cook it for about 1 minute, until it bubbles and puffs up a little. Turn gently and cook about 45 seconds on the other side, until it is tender, but not brittle. Brown spots may or may not show up—don’t worry about them either way.
Transfer to a serving plate and find a spot on the side where the two layers are ready to separate from each other. Pull them gently apart, and stack them oiled sides up, covered, while you finish cooking the other 7 pancake pairs.
Serve the pancakes hot or warm. To keep for later use, set aside to cool to room temperature. Wrap them airtight and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Reheat in a skillet the same way you cooked them, or steam them gently until tender and warm.
QUICK & EASY CHINESE MENUS
PICNIC BASKET
Hoisin Shrimp in Lettuce Cups (page 21)
Soy Sauce Chicken Wings (page 27)
Broccoli with Garlic and Ginger (page 127)
Baguette with cheese and summer sausages
Egg Custard Tartlets (page 162)
Watermelon slices
BIRTHDAY FEAST
Eight-Treasure Fried Rice (page 138)
Char Shiu Pork (page 98)
Everyday Noodles with Sesame Oil (page 143)
Birthday cake
Quick & Easy Chinese Page 12
