by Erin McKenna
Bake for 15 minutes, and then rotate the sheet 180 degrees. Bake until the potatoes are soft and the crust is golden brown, 10 minutes. Let the tart cool for 15 minutes before serving.
onion and cured black olive tart
I beg you: To preserve the dignity of this classic tart, please refrain from using canned olives. The hope is that somewhere on your shopping route, there is a place for cured black olives, the kind that are available in bulk at most large-scale markets by now. This is my version of the time-tested onion-and-olive combo. I’m not super crazy about a billion caramelized onions, so I use a bit less than do other chefs and bakers, relying on the crust to carry the day. You are fine to bump it up on the onion front because the pastry dough can handle as many as two large onions.
serves 8
3 tablespoons (42 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil
1½ medium onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons (1 GRAM) fresh thyme leaves
½ recipe All-Purpose Puff Pastry Dough, or ½ recipe dough for Croissants or Spelt Croissants
¼ cup (30 GRAMS) halved and pitted cured black olives
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, place a 9-inch tart mold on top, and set aside.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wide skillet set over medium heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the thyme and remove from the heat.
Between 2 pieces of parchment paper, roll out the dough into a circle ¼ inch thick. Remove the parchment paper, transfer the dough to the tart pan, and softly push it into the mold. Cut off the excess dough that hangs over the side and save for another use. Brush the dough with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Spoon the onion mixture into the dough, top with the olives, and season with salt and pepper.
Bake until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Let the tart cool for 10 minutes before serving.
fennel, spinach, and leek crostata
I learned how to make a traditional crostata from my friend Brooks Headley, the James Beard Award–winning executive pastry chef of Del Posto in New York City. He taught me how important it is to remember to keep it simple and how it’s pretty lame to be overly prissy anyway. He showed me, an Irish girl from California, how to channel my inner Italian nonna. And it worked! Be confident, intuitive. You can’t mess this recipe up unless you undercook your vegetables, so don’t do that.
serves 8
¼ cup (56 GRAMS) olive oil
1 large fennel bulb, cored and roughly chopped
2 large leeks (light green and white parts only), thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
4 cups (120 GRAMS) baby spinach
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 recipe All-Purpose Puff Pastry Dough
1 tablespoon (.5 GRAMS) fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon (1 GRAM) chopped fresh sage leaves
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a wide skillet set over medium heat. Add the fennel and leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the spinach and cook until wilted, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste and drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Allow to cool for 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Between 2 pieces of parchment paper, roll out the chilled dough into a thin circle about ½ inch thick. Remove the parchment paper and transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet. Pour the vegetables into the center of the dough and spread out to cover the surface, leaving a ¾-inch border. Starting at the top and moving clockwise, fold the edges of the dough toward the center over the vegetables. It doesn’t have to be neat. Sprinkle the thyme and sage on top.
Bake for 15 minutes, and then rotate the baking sheet 180 degrees. Bake until the crust is golden, 10 minutes. Let the crostata cool on the baking sheet for 15 minutes before serving.
mushroom turnovers
Mushrooms have long been a vegan’s best friend. They’re substantial, versatile, and extremely receptive to just about any seasoning and method of preparation. I tried this recipe with a variety of mushrooms—everything from portobello to shiitake—and got excellent results each time.
makes 24
¼ cup (56 GRAMS) olive oil
½ medium onion, chopped
1¼ pounds (566 GRAMS) button mushrooms, trimmed and thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Leaves from 2 sprigs rosemary
½ tablespoon chopped fresh sage
½ recipe All-Purpose Puff Pastry Dough, or ½ recipe dough for Croissants or Spelt Croissants
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a wide skillet set over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until the mushrooms are tender, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, toss in the herbs, drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, stir, and set aside and allow to cool for 15 minutes
Between 2 pieces of parchment paper, roll out the chilled dough until it is about ¼ inch thick. Remove the parchment paper and, using a 3-inch round biscuit cutter, cut out the dough into circles. Put 1 tablespoon of the mushroom mixture onto half of each circle, leaving a ¼-inch border. Fold the pastry over to create a half-moon and seal the edges with a fork to create a ruffled look. Put the turnovers on the prepared baking sheet.
Bake for 8 minutes, and then rotate the baking sheet 180 degrees. Bake until golden, 8 minutes. Let the turnovers cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes before serving.
snacks
At its absolute best, a snack will be in perfect harmony with the occasion. In my mind, there are so many varieties: purse snacks, park snacks, after-school snacks, midnight snacks, waiting-for-the-train snacks, and work snacks. Describing snacks stresses me out because they are such an important part of my life and I want so badly to do them justice.
I’ve preferred snacks to meals for as long as I can remember. This is in part because I hate feeling overstuffed, and snacks provide just enough energy to get by for the immediate future—until it’s time for the next snack. I guess really it’s just a way for me to eat more things.
I’ve actually developed a snacking strategy for you. The Oat Crackies go in your purse, briefcase, toddler snack bag, or tote, as they are odorless and easy to sneak, and satisfy both salty and sweet cravings. The Almond-Rosemary Crackers should be kept in plastic containers in various parts of your house or apartment (don’t forget the baby’s room!) for easy access. Take the Kale Chips with you in a plastic bag to eat after your workout, but no earlier than ten in the morning. These guidelines work for me and I think they will work for you, too.
oat crackies BREADSTICKS pretzels
KALE CHIPS almond-rosemary crackers
oat crackies
In many circles, Wheat Thins are considered the greatest of all crackers. In my house I’ve witnessed entire boxes evaporate over the course of an hour. My oat version, named “Crackies” because that’s what our daughter calls them, is built around what I remember as the best part of this munchie: salt. I replicated wheat, using oat flour and flax meal instead, and then added a spot of cornmeal for crunch, followed by a little sugar to bring it all together.
makes 42
1 cup (100 GRAMS) gluten-free oat flour
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (72 GRAMS) potato starch
¼ cup (33 GRAMS) cornmeal
2 tablespoons (14 GRAMS) ground flaxseed (flax meal)
2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) vegan sugar
2 teaspoons xanthan gum
1 teaspoon salt, plus more for sprinkling
¼ cup (56 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil, plus more for brushing
¼ cup (56 GRAMS) cold water
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2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 tablespoon (22 GRAMS) agave nectar
In a medium bowl, whisk together the oat flour, potato starch, cornmeal, ground flaxseed, sugar, xanthan gum, and salt. Add the oil, cold water, vanilla, and agave nectar and, using a rubber spatula, stir until a thick dough forms. If the dough is too dry, add more water 1 tablespoon at a time. Wrap the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator, unwrap it, and place between 2 pieces of parchment paper. Roll out the dough until it is about ⅛ inch thick. Remove the parchment paper, trim off the rough edges of the dough, and cut it into 2-inch squares. Put the squares onto the prepared baking sheet, brush with oil, and sprinkle lightly with salt.
Bake for 15 minutes, and then rotate the baking sheet 180 degrees. Bake until lightly browned, 6 minutes. Let the crackers cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes before serving.
breadsticks
These came about quite by accident as I was fooling around with a messed-up batch of dough while talking on the phone. What I ended up creating was the best breadstick I have eaten since I was introduced to them at Pizza Hut in fifth grade while celebrating my best friend Clarissa’s birthday. Clarissa, you won’t believe it!
makes 24
1¼ cups (175 GRAMS) brown rice flour, plus more for rolling the dough
½ cup (50 GRAMS) gluten-free oat flour
1⅓ cups (256 GRAMS) potato starch
1 cup (120 GRAMS) arrowroot, or more if needed
2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) vegan sugar
1 tablespoon (15 GRAMS) salt
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
1 tablespoon (15 GRAMS) baking powder
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
½ cup (120 GRAMS) lukewarm coconut milk
1 cup (226 GRAMS) lukewarm rice milk
Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the rice flour, oat flour, potato starch, arrowroot, sugar, salt, xanthan gum, baking powder, and yeast. Add the lukewarm milks and, with a rubber spatula, mix until the dough pulls away easily from the sides of the bowl. Add 1 tablespoon arrowroot at a time if the batter is not pulling away. Add a splash of lukewarm water if the dough is too dry.
Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator, unwrap it, and portion out 24 small balls. Lightly dust your countertop with rice flour, roll each ball into a 6-inch rope, and then transfer to the baking sheet. Once all the breadsticks are formed, cover with a dish towel and allow to rise for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Bake the breadsticks for 6 minutes, rotate the sheet 180 degrees, and continue baking for another 3 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown. Remove the breadsticks from the oven and let them cool for 5 minutes before serving.
pretzels
There are recipes that are esteem builders, and this is definitely one of them. Pretzels are not exactly simple to make, but once you get a handle on the technique, you will look deep into the eyes of other pretzel makers and find unspoken camaraderie. Here’s a good tip to help get you there: If you are nervous about your pretzels losing shape when they hit the boiling water (totally a fair concern!), freeze the dough for a few hours after it is formed and they’ll hold up better during the boil.
makes 16
1 cup (226 GRAMS) warm water (about 120°F)
¼ cup (56 GRAMS) vegan sugar
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
1¾ cups (245 GRAMS) brown rice flour
1 cup (140 GRAMS) Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free All-Purpose Baking Flour
2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil, plus more for brushing the baking sheet
1 tablespoon (17 GRAMS) baking powder
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons (45 GRAMS) baking soda
In a small bowl, combine the warm water, sugar, and yeast. Stir once and set aside to proof until it bubbles, about 10 minutes.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, oil, baking powder, xanthan gum, and salt. Add the yeast mixture and, using a rubber spatula, stir until a thick, sticky dough forms. Cover the dough with a dish towel and let it sit on the countertop for 1 hour. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and set aside.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, brush lightly with oil, and set it aside.
Portion the dough into balls the size of Ping-Pong balls. Using your hands, roll each portion into a rope about 6 inches in length. Twist each rope into a pretzel shape, pressing the ends tightly together so they hold their shape. Put them on the prepared baking sheet.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
In a large pot, bring 3 inches of water to a boil over high heat and add the baking soda. Reduce the heat so the water just simmers. Put 1 pretzel in the water and boil for 45 seconds. Using tongs, turn it over and cook the second side for 30 seconds. Transfer the pretzel to a wire rack to drain. Repeat with the remaining pretzels. Once the pretzels are completely drained, return them to the baking sheet, leaving 1 inch between them.
Bake for 5 minutes, and then rotate the baking sheet 180 degrees. Bake until browned, 5 minutes. Let the pretzels cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes before serving.
making your pretzels with spelt
There are reasons you might want to do pretzels with spelt. For one, spelt is cheaper. Also they come out a bit lighter, they involve fewer ingredients, and in general they are a bit simpler because spelt is easier to work with. To convert my recipe to spelt (it’s so easy!), swap out the original list of ingredients in the recipe with the following list of ingredients and measurements, and proceed with the exact same baking instructions. Yes!
1 cup (226 GRAMS) warm water (about 120°F)
1 tablespoon (22 GRAMS) agave nectar
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
2¾ cups (385 GRAMS) white spelt flour
2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil, plus more for brushing the baking sheet
1 tablespoon salt (18 GRAMS)
kale chips
I’m completely unsure why, but these chips are the most divisive snack on the planet. You either like them or they make you hostile. My monthly budget for kale chips, before this recipe, was … I don’t even want to say. It was a lot, let’s leave it at that. Little did I know the recipe was well within reach and in the process I could save enough money to invest in a totally new side snack!
serves 4
1 bunch kale, stemmed
2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil
⅓ cup (40 GRAMS) sesame seeds
¼ cup (30 GRAMS) nutritional yeast
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside.
Put the kale in a bowl and add the oil, sesame seeds, nutritional yeast, salt, and cayenne pepper. Using your hands, toss until each leaf is well coated. Transfer the kale to the prepared baking sheets.
Bake, stirring halfway through, until crispy, about 30 minutes. Let the kale chips cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes before serving.
almond-rosemary crackers
I avoid almond flour at the bakery because I’m sensitive to the plight of those with nut allergies, but it’s necessary for this recipe. Almond flour provides a perfectly faint hint of sweetness. If you must replace the almond flour, try experimenting with rice flour.
makes 36 crackers
1½ cups (168 GRAMS) blanched almond flour
½ cup (50 GRAMS) gluten-free oat flour
⅓ cup (64 GRAMS) potato starch
2 tablespoons (2 GRAMS) chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
1 teaspoon salt
/> 2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil
½ cup (113 GRAMS) cold water
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, potato starch, rosemary, xanthan gum, and salt. Pour in the coconut oil and cold water and, using a rubber spatula, stir until a thick dough forms. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator, unwrap it, and place it between 2 pieces of parchment paper. Roll out the dough into a large 16 by 12-inch rectangle about ⅛ inch thick. Remove the parchment paper, trim off the edges of the dough, and transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Using a knife, cut the dough into 2½-inch rectangles.
Bake for 10 minutes, and then rotate the baking sheet 180 degrees. Bake until lightly golden, 5 minutes. Let the crackers cool on the baking sheet for 10 minutes before serving.
dips and dressings, a sauce, a spread, and butter
Basically: condiments. But what a lousy word, right? It fails to convey much of anything, if you ask me, so I chose to name this chapter a tad more literally. Because I love this chapter with all my being.
Let’s just talk about butter for a minute, can we? You have in your hands a baking book, and perhaps that is owing to the fact that you’ve come across the name BabyCakes in the past. Definitely by now you have at least an idea of what we do and don’t do there. Did you expect a butter recipe? Neither did I! Yet here it is. For me it was life-changing, and I think it may be for you, too. Learn it quick: My butter recipe is a part of this book’s DNA.
