Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women

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Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women Page 64

by Gross, Michael


  Esquire, 228, 346

  Euro-Planning/Stéphane Lanson, 292-293, 297, 298, 300, 398, 465

  Evangelista, Linda, 7, 12, 150, 407, 408-409, 412, 413, 416, 426, 429, 441-442, 459, 487

  background of, 427-428

  Meisel and, 433-435, 439

  as member of Trinity, 431, 433-440

  Evans, Charlie, 141

  Evans, Robert, 141, 348

  Eyes of Laura Mars, The, 350

  Face, The, 485

  Face of the 80s contest, 451, 472, 474

  Faces (agency), 479

  Faithfull, Marianne, 175

  Falkenburg, Jinx, 55-58, 57, 59, 73

  FAM, 399, 489-490

  Fame, Ltd., 352-354

  Farley, Lillian (Dinarzade), 40

  Fashion & Film, 239

  Fashion Bureau, 81, 86, 102, 103, 105

  Fashion Group, 96, 237, 425

  fashion magazines, 40-41

  British, 167

  pay scale of, 16

  photographers and, 77-78, 130

  World War II and, 77-78

  Fashion Model, 15, 277, 286, 376, 377, 387, 478

  fashion photography:

  Avedon and, 106-107

  disco culture and, 226-229

  first color fashion photo and, 41

  first known fashion photograph and, 38

  French Mob and, 255-256, 265, 280-281, 300

  London scene and, 163-167

  magazines and, 77-78, 130

  outdoor, 77-78

  Rayographs and, 39, 42

  subtext and, 107

  technology and, 38-39, 77-78

  Terrible Trio and, 153, 156, 167, 169-172, 181

  see also individual photographers

  Fath, Jacques, 117, 137, 138

  fees and earnings, 6, 16, 351, 500-501

  of black models, 238-239

  “reuse” payments, 312

  television residuals, 197

  Feitler, Bea, 247

  Feldman, Ed, 241

  Felicitas, 491

  Ferri, Fabrizio, 375, 492

  Ferry, Bryan, 298, 347

  Fertig, Bob, 36, 37, 48, 59, 60, 61-62, 64, 65-66

  Feurer, Hans, 282, 295

  Fiedler, Christa, 209, 277, 285, 286, 289

  Field, Simon, 314

  Figaro Madame, 428

  Filippachi, Daniel, 109

  Finkelstein, Alan, 351-355

  FitzGerald, Frances, 224-225

  Flagler, Palen, 50, 72

  Flanders, Annie, 424

  Fleischman, Mark, 328

  Foley-Anderson, Sara, 486, 488, 492

  Fonseca, José, 176, 379, 461

  Fonssagrives, Fernand, 51

  Fonssagrives, Lisa, 12, 51-54, 53, 83-84, 107, 137, 398

  Penn and, 84-85

  Foray, Betty, 237

  Forbach, Joan, 396

  Ford, Billy, 123, 200, 472, 473, 474

  Ford, Eileen, 5, 80, 83, 85, 93, 97, 113, 123, 124, 125, 129, 130, 133, 146, 171, 176, 207, 224, 228, 229, 231, 235, 246, 248, 255, 263, 265, 266, 267, 282, 283, 284, 290, 295, 298, 319, 337, 341, 343, 348, 350, 353, 355, 364, 374, 398, 407, 418, 457, 473, 474, 479, 494, 495

  Ford, Eileen (continued)

  background of, 92-94

  Brunel and, 4, 468-469, 471-472

  Casablancas’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380

  on Dick Cavett Show, 252-253

  Dovima and, 136, 208

  Europe visited by, 138-142

  Hutton and, 217, 218

  Knudsen and, 363, 370, 371

  Leigh and, 75, 105, 111-112, 204, 206, 208-209, 211

  Mullen affair and, 127-128

  Patchett and, 87-88

  retirement and, 472, 497-498

  Sawyer’s interview of, 468-469, 470

  Turlington and, 416-417

  21 International and, 285-286

  Twiggy and, 187-188

  Veruschka and, 187-188

  Wilhelmina and, 196, 199-202

  Ford, Gerard, 85, 92, 93, 94-95, 100, 101, 108, 129, 130, 132, 133, 146, 149, 172, 181, 197, 200, 202, 206-209, 221, 238, 246, 259, 279-280, 298, 302, 305, 307, 309, 311, 335, 337, 340, 343, 353, 355, 369, 370, 371, 375, 389, 398, 446, 460, 473, 474, 479, 504

  Conover and, 54-55

  Mullen’s affair with, 123-128

  Parker and, 118-119

  retirement and, 472, 497-498

  “reuse” payments and, 312

  21 International and, 285-286

  Ford, Jamie, 95, 123, 200, 472

  Ford, Katie, 140, 200, 418, 433, 472-474, 473, 480

  Ford, Lacey, 200, 472, 473

  Ford Models, 1, 14, 16, 37, 123, 133, 176, 197, 218, 229, 244, 246, 248, 259, 294, 353, 354, 440, 463, 504-505

  Billingsley and, 95-96

  black models and, 238

  commissions paid by, 475

  Dell’Orefice and, 146

  Elite’s fashion war with, 279-280, 302, 305, 306-311, 322-323, 351-352, 379-380

  Esch’s attempted deal for, 479-480

  European expansion of, 138-140

  Face of the 80s contest of, 451, 472, 474

  Ford’s retirement and, 472, 497-498

  founding and growth of, 94-95

  Hartford Agency and, 101

  Leigh and, 94, 101, 105-106, 140

  lingerie posing and, 200

  Natálie and, 94-97, 130-131

  Paris branch of, 472-474, 480

  Parker sisters and, 116-118

  restructuring of, 480

  voucher system and, 100-101

  Forsman, Holly, 201

  Forth, Jane, 293

  Fortune, 193, 310

  Fortuny, Mariano, 45

  Foster, Julie, 336, 376

  Foster-Fell, Jeremy, 15, 17, 239-241, 478

  Foster-Fell, Judith, 239-241

  Frame, Bob, 19, 20

  Frances Gill Agency, 128, 197, 217

  Frank, Geraldine, 250

  Franken, Wallis, 303

  Franklin, Evelyn, 110

  Freedman, Bobby, 206, 207

  Freeman, Einson, 55, 58

  French, John, 164, 165-166, 167, 168

  French Connection, The, 306

  French Mob, 255-256, 265, 300

  approach of, 280-281

  Fressange, Inès de la, 380-381

  Freymann, Robert, 233-234

  Frieberg, Agneta, 201, 229

  Frissell, Toni, 36, 77, 108, 432

  Funny Face, 112, 117, 134

  Fürstenberg, Egon von, 272

  Galas, Dominique, 467, 475

  Galdi, Marcella, 374, 377, 398, 412

  Gallant, Ara, 191, 330

  Gambier, Colette, 277, 285, 286

  Gander, Louise, 488

  Garroway, Dave, 144

  Gastel, Giovanni, 474

  Gaulthier, Marilyn, 15, 489

  Gay, Riccardo, 1, 6, 8, 15, 277, 278, 283, 286-289, 305, 306, 373, 374, 375, 377, 384, 386, 389, 390, 395-396, 398, 459, 461-462

  Geffen, David, 250

  Gentlemen’s Quarterly, see GQ

  Gérald, Diane, 202, 204

  Gere, Richard, 10, 25-27, 482

  Gerli, Charles, 3

  Ghauri, Yasmeen, 6, 150, 412

  Gia’s Girls, 494

  Gibb, Christopher, 174

  Gibson Girls, 36

  Giddings, Janine, 488

  Gigli, Ormond, 201

  Gill, Frances, 128-129, 149, 239

  Gilles, Patrick, 382, 467

  Girl Who Had Everything, The (Leigh), 75

  Glamour, 16, 88, 132, 169, 226, 228, 230, 238, 242, 244, 246, 265-266, 320, 344-346, 420-421, 446, 486

  Glaviano, Marco, 10, 11, 22, 316, 419, 453

  Goalen, Barbara, 164

  Golden, Jack, 132-134

  Gollidge, Sylvia, 160

  Good Housekeeping, 74, 107

  Gordine-Dalley, Wynne, 176

  Goude, Jean-Paul, 320

  GQ, 10, 174, 410

  Grace Del Marco Model
Agency, 237

  Graham, Robert, 362

  Grant, Cary, 73, 112-113

  Graziani, Bettina, 137, 138, 287

  Greco, Juliette, 137

  Greene, Alexander Plunket, 166

  Greene, Milton, 82, 107, 110

  Greenwell, Mary, 9, 23

  Griffin, Sunny, 199-202, 201, 226

  Grill, Frances, 424, 425, 427, 492-494

  Grimme, Jimmy, 415-417

  Grosjean, Brigitte, 283

  Gshopf, Eva, 229

  Gubernick, Lisa, 101

  Gudy, Maria, 201

  Gumkevitch, Natasha, 285, 286

  Gunning, Anne, 138, 139, 164

  Gunzburg, Nicolas de, 77, 217

  Haddad, Claude Mohammed, 4, 292-293, 297-298, 300, 301, 462-466, 467, 469, 471, 475, 489

  Haden-Guest, Anthony, 110, 309-310, 350

  Halinen, Maarit, 309, 312

  Hall, Bridget, 2, 494-495

  Hall, Jerry, 4, 291-293, 295-300, 299, 347, 366, 380, 381, 462, 483

  Halleran, Jane, 141, 186, 229

  Halliday, Johnny, 466

  Hamel, Veronica, 201

  Hamilton, David, 491

  Hamilton, Georgia, 98

  Hamilton, Shirley, 196

  Hammond, Celia, 153-158, 155, 167-168

  Hannagan, Steve, 32

  Hansen, Patti, 254, 336, 344-347, 345, 352, 355, 360-363, 487

  Hardison, Bethann, 238

  Harker, Paul, 204

  Harlé, Catherine, 204, 205, 211, 256, 276, 277, 284, 300

  Harlow, Shalom, 474, 488

  Harnett, Annemarie Margot Elfreda “Sunny,” 145-146, 147, 235

  Harper’s & Queen, 429

  Harper’s Bazaar, 16, 26, 36, 49, 51, 70, 72, 75, 76, 81, 82, 84, 106, 108, 117, 121, 133, 136, 146, 163, 164, 170, 173, 226, 231, 233, 237, 242, 262, 270, 324, 326, 429, 451, 452

  advertising revenue of, 431

  agencies and, 129-130

  Avedon’s contract with, 223

  celebrity fashions and, 247-248

  Italian edition of, 376

  Moss and, 486, 488

  Tiegs and, 247-248

  Vogue’s rivalry with, 40, 77, 90, 130, 218, 254, 333, 376-377, 485

  Vreeland at, 78, 169, 189

  waif look and, 486, 488

  Harris, Lara, 491

  Harrison, George, 153, 177, 178-179, 241

  Hart, Winnie, see Wilhelmina

  Hartford, Huntington, 61, 99, 129-130, 149

  background of, 98

  model agency of, 97, 101

  reputation of, 100

  voucher system and, 98-99

  Harth, Ellen, 239-240, 380

  Hartman, Patricia, 488

  Hartman, Rose, 296

  Hartnell, Norman, 159

  Hawkins, Dolores, 200, 201

  Hawks, Howard, 80

  Haydon, Charles, 340, 341

  Haywood, Spencer, 333-335

  Hayworth, Rita, 50, 73, 186

  Hedren, Tippi, 58

  Heimann, Richard, 146, 230

  Heintz, Kerstin, 259

  Helburn, Bill, 90, 226

  Helvin, Marie, 380, 381, 483

  Hemingway, Ernest, 49

  Hemingway, Margaux, 487

  Hemmings, David, 173, 186

  Hepburn, Audrey, 112

  Hepburn, Katherine, 50, 72

  Hernan, Kay, 37

  Héron, Guy, 380-381, 489

  Herrene, Astrid, 201, 219, 332

  Herrera, Reinaldo, 144

  Hesse, Paul, 55-56, 58

  Hewitt, Heather, 201

  Hiett, Steve, 280-281, 303, 491

  Hilbert, Victoria, 201

  Hill, David Octavius, 38

  Himmel, Paul, 110

  Hiro, 209, 218, 282

  Hitchcock, Jane, 487

  Hoare, Sarajane, 9, 13, 17, 22

  Högberg, Helen, 466, 467

  Hollingsworth, Toni, 97

  Hollingworth, West C., 207-208

  Holzer, Jane, 229, 425

  Horn, Steve, 229

  Hornby, Lesley, see Twiggy

  Horst, Horst P. (Horst Paul Albert Bohrmann), 50-52, 76, 78, 82, 103, 112, 117, 126, 421

  Horvath, Frank, 492

  Houlès, Pierre, 281, 317, 320, 324, 325, 326

  House & Garden, 430

  House of Style, 10, 23, 482

  Hoyningen-Huene, George, 39, 41, 42, 50-51, 52, 76, 78

  Hoyt, Russell, 96

  Hughes, Howard, 58, 81

  Hunter, Joe, 1, 6-7, 309, 326, 329, 352-353, 354, 474, 479-480

  Huntington, Pam, 250

  Huston, Anjelica, 110, 234

  Hutchence, Michael, 6

  Hutton, Barbara, 73

  Hutton, Lauren, 133, 200, 212-222, 213, 250, 254, 355, 442, 481, 487, 495

  Casablancas and, 454-456

  Eileen Ford and, 217, 218

  Vogue and, 218-221

  Iman, 314, 333-336, 334, 365, 376, 380, 457

  IMG (International Management Group), 14, 481-482

  Interview, 267

  Iooss, Walter, Jr., 331

  Ireland, Kathy, 482

  Irwin, Elaine, 150, 412, 482

  Jacobson, Max, 233-234

  Jaeckin, Just, 280, 281

  Jagger, Bianca, 250

  Jagger, Harriet, 483

  Jagger, Mick, 170, 174-175, 229, 250, 297, 298

  James, Charles, 163

  James, Maudie, 481

  Janis, Byron, 108

  Janssen, Barbara, 201

  Jardin des Modes, 204

  Jelke, Minot Frazier, III, 64

  Jenny O, 493

  Joel, Billy, 313

  Joffe, Constantin, 82

  Johanssen, Ingmarie, 301

  John Robert Powers (agency), 31-36, 44, 47, 50, 52, 54, 80

  competition and, 37-38

  expansion of, 59-61

  Johnson, Beverly, 239, 352

  Johnson, Jay, 294

  Johnson, Kate, 226

  Jones, Brian, 174, 175

  Jones, Candy (Jessica Wilcox), 55, 62-64, 63, 65-68, 81

  Jones, Grace, 4, 292, 295

  Jones, Jennifer, 37, 50, 83

  Jones, Samantha, 201

  Jones, Tommy Lee, 350

  Jonvelle, Jean Francois, 264

  Jordan, Donna, 293, 295, 487

  Journal des Dames et des Modes, 38

  Juba, Dorothy Virginia Margaret, see Dovima

  Juliette, 491

  Jungle Fever, 447

  Junior Bazaar, 106-107

  Kalfus, Jordan, 171, 172, 233

  Kansbod, Lena, 303

  Kaplan, Richard, 118, 146, 149

  Karins, 15, 434, 467-469, 470, 471-472, 478

  Kark, Leslie, 160, 163, 176-177

  Kates, Faith, 477, 478

  Kattan, Lizette, 314, 376

  Keating, Peter, 355

  Keeble, Kezia, 424-425

  Keko, Hellevi, 201

  Kelly, Grace, 58, 80, 129

  Kendall, Kate, 178

  Kenmore, Carolyn, 252

  Kennedy, Jacqueline, 141, 233

  Kennedy, John F., 144, 149, 233

  Kent, Allegra, 234

  Kerbox, Buzzy, 493

  Kertesz, André, 77

  Kibblewhite, Norman, 163

  Kilgallen, Dorothy, 96, 136

  King, Bill, 169, 262, 268-269, 366, 369

  King, Harry, 170, 342

  Kirkland, Sally, 138

  Kironde, Katiti, II, 238

  Kittler, Alain, 272, 276, 306-307, 308, 309, 310, 397, 398, 400, 451, 452, 459, 460, 461-462, 481, 496

  Klein, Anne, 96, 238

  Klein, Calvin, 13, 16, 314, 329, 340, 344, 351, 412

  Moss and, 486-487

  Turlington’s contract with, 432-434

  Klein, Stephen, 411, 414

  Klein, William, 29, 151, 210, 333

  Klercker, Brigitta, 219

  Knapp, Peter, 204, 291

  Knaster, Polly Ferguson, 100, 129-130

  Knudsen, Bitten, 335, 359, 360, 362,
363, 365-372, 376

  Kohlman, Lynn, 301

  Kosner, Edward, 458

  Kounovsky, Nicholas, 82

  Kraft, Lee, 218

  Krainin, Ewing, 128

  Krainin, Fan, 128, 129; see also Gill, Frances

  Ladies’ Home Journal, 74, 87, 108, 118, 231, 236, 237-238

  Laeticia, 491

  Lagerfeld, Karl, 295, 297, 300, 448, 477

  Laidlaw-Thompson, Fiona, 155

  Lambert, Eleanor, 96, 237

  Lamy, Francois, 301, 364, 376

  Landshoff, Herman, 102

  Lange, Jessica, 336

  Lano, Francois, 202-204, 203, 206, 207, 208, 250, 255, 261, 264, 265, 267, 276, 283, 284, 286-287, 302, 303-304, 306-307, 310, 384-386, 396, 399, 402, 466

  Lanson, Stéphane, 204, 286, 287, 292-293, 300, 382, 384, 386

  Lantz, Barbara, 356-357, 358

  Lanza, Suzanne, 491

  Lanzotti, Roberto, 378, 381, 382, 386, 441

  Larsen, Gunnar, 271, 276, 280

  Larson, Anne, 201

  Lategan, Barry, 181, 280, 301

  Lauren, Ralph, 485, 493

  Lawford, Chris, 493

  Lawrence, Gertrude, 106

  Le Baube, Guy, 303, 347, 450

  Le Bon, Yasmin Parveneh, 5

  LeBrock, Kelly, 431, 444

  Lecca, Dan, 361, 413

  Lee, Spike, 447

  LeFevbre, Monique, 140

  Legends, 481

  Lehndorff, Vera von, see Veruschka

  Lei, 425

  Leigh, Dorian (Elizabeth Dorian Leigh Parker), 10, 12, 52, 81, 85, 86, 90, 110, 128, 131, 149, 187, 196, 200, 228, 255-256, 279, 284-285, 398, 472

  Avedon and, 107-109, 119-120

  background of, 75-76

  Ben-Gurion and, 204-206

  Chatelain and, 282-283

 

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