Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women

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Model: The Ugly Business of Beautiful Women Page 66

by Gross, Michael


  Casablancas’s relationship with, 451-458

  Rose and, 456-457

  Shannon, Tara, 314, 359-372, 361

  Shaw, Irwin, 110

  Shaw, Mark, 128, 233

  Shaw, Sam, 109

  Shawn, Wallace, 23

  Shepard, Alan, 121

  Shepherd, Cybill, 245-246, 245, 317

  Sherman, Bertha Bartlett, 43-44

  Sherman, Eunice, 95

  Sherman, Hannah Lee, 34, 43-47, 45

  Shields, Brooke, 472

  Shiraishi, Carl, 216

  Shrimpton, Chrissie, 170, 174-175

  Shrimpton, Jean, 153, 154, 155, 159-160, 161, 167, 171-172, 173, 178, 223, 233, 421, 481

  Bailey and, 168-171

  “Young Idea” feature and, 170

  Sieff, Jeanloup, 169, 187, 255, 280, 492

  Silberstein, Dominique, 291, 304

  Silberstein, Jacques, 289, 290-291, 300, 304, 399, 467, 468

  Silberstein, Robert, 289

  Silverberg, Steven, 388

  Simonson, Renee, 472

  Simpson, Babs, 77, 81, 130, 217

  Sims, Naomi, 235, 236, 238

  60 Minutes, 4, 462-463, 471, 472, 477

  Brunel and, 466-470

  Haddad report of, 464-466

  Skrebneski, Victor, 20-21, 196

  Slater, Christian, 441

  Slavin, Sarah, 261, 265-266

  Smith, Earl E. T., 37

  Smith, Liz, 431

  Smith, Marion, 474, 479-480

  Smith, Patti, 423

  Smith, Shelley, 256, 261, 262, 263, 266, 268-270, 487

  Smith, Toukie, 294

  Smith, Willie, 294

  Smithers, Beri, 9, 488

  Snow, Carmel, 41, 77, 106, 107

  Snowden, Lynn, 355

  Society of Models, 78-89

  Sohl, Richard, 423

  SoHo Weekly News, 424

  Sokolsky, Melvin, 104, 171, 172, 224, 231-232, 233, 422

  Solow, Mia, 84, 85

  Sontag, Susan, 186

  Sorenson, Marion, 55

  Sorrenti, Mario, 488

  Souliers, Aileen, 475

  Spelling, Aaron, 482

  Spina, James, 422, 424

  “Spoiled Supermodels, The” (Haden-Guest), 350

  Sports Illustrated, 10, 224, 313, 319-320, 327, 420, 456

  Springfield, Dusty, 173

  Springs, Alice, 264

  Sprouse, Stephen, 422, 423, 425, 434

  Stallone, Sylvester, 314, 436

  Stamp, Terence, 153, 171-172

  Stech, Ericha, 201

  Steichen, Edward, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 56, 226

  Stember, John, 255, 320, 450

  Stephens, Jan, 387

  Stern, Bert, 169, 182, 223, 224, 230, 233, 234, 333, 421, 422

  Stevens, Jocelyn, 153, 167

  Stewart, James, 50, 370

  Stewart Models, 197, 217, 241, 242, 244, 246, 267

  Stinson, Eleanor, 352, 353, 354

  Stogo, Don, 101

  Stone, Barbara, 181, 188-189, 241, 244, 246-247, 248, 249, 261, 266, 279

  Stone, Paulene, 178

  Stone Models, 247

  Stop Veruschka, 190

  Strongwater, Peter, 312, 343, 347, 378

  Stuart, Hamish, 366, 370

  Studio 54, 313, 330-331, 332, 343, 344, 346, 351, 365, 366

  Stumin, Constance, 229

  Style with Elsa Klensch, 482

  Success (agency), 398

  Sui, Anna, 422

  Sumurum (Vera Ashby), 40

  Sunday Times (London), 172, 264

  “Supermodel,” 5

  Supermodel of the World contest, 474, 498

  supermodels, 5, 490

  calendars and, 420-421

  first, 49

  first male, 344

  first nonblond, 420

  first use of term, 12

  image of, 411-412

  nude posing and, 421, 486

  Swain, Eric, 170, 178

  Synchro, 462

  Tabak, Massimo, 375, 386, 395-396

  Talent Management International (TMI), 207

  Talmadge, Richard, 309, 353

  Tapscott, Trudi, 12, 400, 458, 460

  Tastet, Kati, 488

  Taubman, Rick, 313

  Taylor, Elizabeth, 209, 432

  Taylor, Lisa, 321, 335, 343, 348-350, 349, 352, 487

  Taylor, Niki, 150, 481, 482

  ’Teen, 242, 243

  Tennant, Catherine, 176

  Tennant, Colin, 176

  Tennant, Stella, 488

  Terrible Trio, 153, 156, 167, 169-172, 181, 226, 228, 229

  Tex and Jinx Show, 58

  Thing of Beauty (Fried), 347

  Thornton, Walter, 2, 37-38, 48, 49, 70, 105, 242

  Thouret, Ingo, 294, 295, 296

  Thurman, Uma, 230

  Thyssen-Bornemizsa, Heinrich von, 139

  Tiegs, Cheryl, 242-248, 243, 417

  background of, 242-244

  Bazaar and, 247-248

  Beard’s marriage to, 335-336

  earnings of, 331

  Sports Illustrated and, 331-332

  Tierney, Gene, 37, 141

  Tilberis, Elizabeth, 430, 485-486

  Time, 50, 83-84, 173, 331, 448

  Time Out, 488

  Times (London), 26-27

  Tizani, Tilly, 197, 201

  Tobe Report, 94

  Today, 50, 144

  Tomsen, Trice, 280

  Tonight Show, The, 198, 199

  Tonneson, Beatrice, 35

  Top Floor (agency), 288

  Top Model, 482

  Toscani, Oliviero, 492

  Town & Country, 52, 69, 84, 126

  Townshend, Isabelle, 493

  Townshend, Philip, 180

  Toye, Teri, 423-426, 434, 493

  Tracy, Charles, 345

  Traissac, Beatrice, 6, 8, 285, 286, 377, 381

  Tree, Herbert Beerbohm, 31

  Tree, Penelope, 110, 224-225, 421

  Trigére, Pauline, 237

  Trinity, 426-429, 431-441

  backlash against, 437-438

  disbanding of, 439-441

  Tripp, Evelyn, 128

  Trülzsch, Holger, 186, 191, 192

  Turkel, Ann, 201, 487

  Turlington, Christy, 1, 3, 6, 8, 12, 150, 411-418, 413, 421, 441-442, 443, 468, 474, 489, 505-506

  background of, 414-418

  Calvin Klein’s contract with, 432-434

  Eileen Ford and, 416-417

  income of, 412, 437

  Meisel and, 421, 426-429

  as member of Trinity, 426-429, 431-440

  21 International, 285-286, 288

  Twiggy (Lesley Hornby), 179-183, 180, 241, 421, 422

  Twiggy, an Autobiography (Twiggy), 181

  Tyler, Barbara, 60

  Tyler, Liv, 481

  Tyson, Mike, 434-436

  Ubhiroff, Harry, 70

  Udell, Rochelle, 247

  Ullman, Linn, 493

  Unwerth, Ellen von, 475

  Uomo Vogue, L’, 294

  Valdes, Beverly, 237

  Valletta, Amber, 9, 474, 488

  Vanity Fair, 26, 108, 493

  van Nuys, Mary, 196

  Variani, Auro, 264, 284

  Varsano, Maurice, 382

  Varsano, Serge, 382-383, 467

  Vassallo, Paolo, 287-288

  Vela, Rosie, 342-343, 487

  Vernet, Marie, 38

  Versace, Gianni, 5, 6, 329, 380, 413, 436

  Veruschka (Vera von Lehndorff), 184-192, 185, 218, 219, 241, 285, 332, 481

  background of, 186-187

  Eileen Ford and, 187-188

  Leigh on, 184-186

  Stone and, 188-189

  Villeneuve, Justin de, 179-183, 180

  Vingt Ans, 294

  Vionnet, Madeleine, 42

  Viva, 429

  Vogue, 9-10, 16, 19, 20, 22, 24, 26, 36, 72, 78, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 86, 87, 88, 103, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110, 138, 144, 154, 164, 167, 172
, 182, 193, 200, 259, 261, 283, 291, 298, 332, 337, 346, 402, 425, 435, 439, 482, 486

  advertising revenue of, 431

  agencies and, 129-130

  Bazaar’s rivalry with, 40, 77, 90, 130, 218, 254, 333, 376-377, 485

  black models and, 237-239

  British edition of, 50

  Dell’Orefice and, 105, 146

  Dovima and, 132-133

  drug problem and, 350-351, 366

  first fashion show of, 40

  Horst and, 50-52

  Hutton and, 218-221

  Linblad and, 265-266

  Mirabella fired from, 429-430

  Mirabella’s arrival at, 253-254

  models’ names published by, 224

  ready-to-wear and, 376

  Steichen and, 41, 42

  Trinity and, 436-437

  Turlington and, 416-417

  Veruschka and, 186, 189

  Vreeland’s tenure at, 169, 171, 181, 182, 189, 191, 223-224, 253-254

  “Young Idea” feature of, 170

  Voici, 27

  von Saher, Edward, 339, 340-341

  voucher system, 98-101, 105, 277

  Voynovitch, Colonel, 159-161

  Vreeland, Diana, 75, 80, 108, 109, 133, 225, 238, 265-266, 294, 332

  at Bazaar, 78, 169, 189

  Hutton and, 217-218

  Mirabella’s replacement of, 191, 253-254

  sixties look and, 224

  Smith discovered by, 261

  Twiggy and, 181, 182

  Vogue tenure of, 169, 171, 181, 182, 189, 191, 223-224, 253-254

  Vu, 78

  Wagner, Gaby, 297, 304, 376, 396, 467, 468, 489

  Wagner, Paul, 248, 249-252

  waif look, 482, 486-488

  Waite, Genevieve, 250

  Walch, Alain, 308

  Wangengheim, Chris von, 336, 376

  Warhol, Andy, 229, 267, 293, 295, 344

  Warren, John, 338-340, 341, 348

  Watson, Albert, 19, 324, 342, 353

  Watts, Richard, 144

  Weaver, Sigourney, 244

  Webb, Veronica, 5-6, 24, 443-448, 445

  Weber, Bruce, 13, 414, 432, 444, 493, 494

  Wechsler, Bob, 55, 56, 58

  Weinberg, Bill, 337-339, 340, 341, 348, 351, 477, 478

  Welch, Tahnee, 493

  Wermelinger, Aline, 8, 495-497

  White, Carol, 7

  White, Nancy, 107, 231, 233, 237, 247

  Whitney, Gertrude Vanderbilt, 39, 40

  Whitney, Michael, 183

  Who Is She?, 55

  Why Not? (agency), 380

  Wiedeck, Heidi, 201

  Wilcox, Jessica, see Jones, Candy

  Wilhelmina (Gertrude Behmenburg Cooper; Winnie Hart), 193-202, 195, 256, 265, 267, 290, 307, 310, 336-337, 364, 367, 378, 493

  background and career of, 194-199

  black models employed by, 235

  Cooper and, see Cooper, Bruce

  earnings of, 197, 202

  Eileen Ford and, 196, 199-202

  illness and death of, 339-340

  Knudsen and, 363, 370, 371

  will of, 340-341

  Wilhelmina Models, 14, 193, 202, 207, 239, 250, 290, 295, 310, 311, 323, 337, 477, 478, 492

  Williams, Chili, 55

  Williams, Rachel, 474, 487

  Williamson, Bob, 216, 220, 221

  Wilson, Roger, 346, 431-432, 433, 441

  Winchell, Walter, 60, 96

  Wintour, Anna, 429-430, 431, 485-486

  Wolfe, Julie, 355

  Woman (agency), 486

  Woman’s Own, 167

  Women’s News Service, 50

  Women’s Wear Daily, 247, 293, 422, 423

  World Models, 288-289

  World War II, 77-78

  Worth, Charles, 38

  Wyndham, Frances, 173

  “youthquake” market, 173

  Zachariasen, Jean-Pierre, 260, 265-266, 267, 279, 281, 450

  Zadrick, Shana, 486

  Zagami, Jo, 309

  Zagury, Bob, 17, 284, 373, 454

  Zavala, Juan, 241

  Zeddis, Rusty, 239, 372

  Ziegfeld Girls, 36

  Zoli (Zoltan Rendessy), 248-252, 251, 267, 297, 327, 330, 335, 355-358, 409, 493

  Zoom (agency), 468, 489

  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

  I covered models, fashion, and fashion photography for a decade beginning in 1983 for Photo District News, the East Side Express, Manhattan, inc., Vanity Fair, The New York Times, and New York. Like the editors of each of those publications, William Morrow’s Paul Bresnick saw that there are dramatic depths to these most superficial of subjects, and made it possible for me to plumb them.

  Modeling owes Richard Avedon a great debt. So do I. He pointed out to me that no one had ever told the story of the trade in pretty people and suggested I write this book.

  Thanks, too, are due to the biggest names in modeling. Eileen, Jerry, and Katie Ford endured long interview sessions that I’m sure they would have preferred to avoid and gave me private rundowns on everyone in the industry. John Casablancas talked a blue streak through several morning-long conversations and was more open than I had any right to expect. François Lano was gracious enough to spend several hours with me on two separate trips to Paris. Dorian Leigh Parker was a wonderful hostess for the three days I spent with her—and far-and-away the most interesting, complex person I met in the modeling world.

  Many people sat for interviews with me in the ten years I wrote about models and the year when I wrote about little else. Some have not been mentioned in the book. A few preferred it that way, and a few made it a condition of cooperation. I thank them in their anonymity. For the record, most are currently active in the fashion business and are justifiably concerned about remaining so. The rest were left out inadvertently or because there simply wasn’t space. Of those, I would particularly like to thank Susan Moncur and Marie Helvin, whose careers are given short shrift here. That’s because each of them has written her own book. Moncur’s spare, impressionistic They Still Shoot Models My Age and Helvin’s Catwalk are two of the best books by models on modeling. Naomi Sims’s How to Be a Top Model is the best of many guidebooks available and was the source of most of the information on her pioneering career.

  Some special people gave me special courtesy. Helen Rogers was my entrée to the world of modeling, her conventions a story I stumbled upon in 1982. She introduced me to Jérôme Bonnouvrier. His willingness to share memories of his family’s thirty-five years in the modeling business was a gift. Suzy Parker Dillman is as delightful as she is different from her sister, Dorian. Polly Mellen is an inspiration always. Wilhelmina Cooper’s family, particularly Melissa Cooper, and her stepmother, Judith Duncanson Cooper, allowed me into an attic full of Wilhelmina’s belongings. More important was their desire to air the truth behind her legend. Judith Cooper also introduced me to Hannah Lee Sherman, who agreed to talk about her career for the first time since it ended almost sixty years ago.

  Almost all my sources are cited in the text in a way that makes clear where information came from. Any quotations in the present tense (i.e., followed by “she says”) were spoken directly to me. Quotations from previously published sources are attributed in the past tense (i.e., “she said”). In general, newspaper and magazine clippings are not cited in the text. Most of the clippings came from two newspaper morgues, at the New York Post and at the Harry Ranson Humanities Research Center at the University of Texas in Austin, where the morgue of the defunct New York Journal-American remains a living resource. The Ranson Center’s Ken Craven deserves a special thanks. As the clippings often present or repeat unsourced information, I have tried to indicate in the text what may be exaggerated, one-sided, or apocryphal.

  Only a few of the living key figures in the history of modeling refused to give interviews, or to update old ones. Bettina Graziani, Irving Penn, David Bailey, Twiggy Lawson, Jean Shrimpton, Bob Williamson, Arthur Elgort, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Steven Meis
el, Donna Broome, Terry Broome, Stephanie Seymour, Peter Brant, Jean-Pierre Dollé, Jacques Buchi and Claude Grangier of Models S.A. in Switzerland, Alan Finkelstein, Thierry Roussel, Penelope Tree, Alan Clore, Carlo Cabassi, and Patti Hansen all declined or didn’t respond to requests for interviews. Riccardo Gay began one and then never completed it. China Machado, Giorgio Piazzi, Karl Lagerfeld, Bill Helburn, Justin de Villeneuve, Kelly Emberg, Ann Turkel, Tony Spinelli, Susan Train, Peter Lindbergh, and Beverly Johnson all agreed to interviews that were never successfully arranged. Dorothea McGowan, Esme Marshall, Brian Duffy, Eileen Green, Cherry Marshall, Claudio Caccia, Giorgio Rotti, Pier Luigi Torri, Laura Royko, Joan Furboch, Lisa Vale, John Stember, Evelyn Tripp, and survivors of Walter Thornton and Sunny Harnett are believed to be living but could not be located.

  However, hundreds of people in the world’s four modeling centers—New York, Paris, London, and Milan—and beyond took time to see me, talk to me on the telephone, or, at the least, confirm facts about themselves. I’d like to thank Azzedine Alaïa, Pucci Albanese, Suzy Amis, Marie Anderson, Sara Foley-Anderson, Ruth Ansel, Jeff Aquilon, Douglas Asch, Laraine Ashton, Gloria and Valerie Askew, Kevyn Aucoin, Lisa Baker, Judy Baldwin, Mark Balet, Bryan Bantry, Gianpaolo Barbieri, Neal Barr, Lillian Bassman, Kenneth Battelle, Peter Beard, Simone d’Aillencourt Benezeraf, Chuck Bennett, Gilles Bensimon, Marisa Berenson, Nancy Berg, Jacques Bergaud, Pauline Bernatchez, Olivier Bertrand, Bernadette Reinhardt Bishop, Bernard Blanceneaux, Nina Blanchard, Bill Blass, Anthony Bloomfield, Jeff Blynn, Gillian Bobroff, Beth Boldt, Christine Bolster, Eric Boman, Ulla Bomser, David Bonnouvrier, Giselle Bonnouvrier, Tina Bossidy, Ingrid Boulting, Nancy Bounds and Mark Sconce, Patti Boyd, Mark Bozek, Dan Brennan, Bob Brenner, Christie Brinkley (and her assistant, Margot McNabb), Dana Brockman, Emerick Branson, Barbara Brown, David Brown, Jean-Luc Brunel, Rose Bruner, Nan Bush, Jule Campbell, Umberto Caproni, Paul Caranicas, Christieve Carothers, Joyce Caruso, Tiziana Casali, Patrice Casanova, Shaun Casey, Oleg Cassini, Michel Castellano, Cindy Cathcart, Simon Chambers, Sue Charney, Jade Hobson Charnin, Alex Chatelain, Bennie Chavez, Servane Cherouat, Cheyenne, Jeanette Christjansen.

 

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