by Andrew Moore
We’ve seen this attention before—recall the Journal of Heredity’s contest; the efforts and ingenuity of horticulturalists throughout the last century; even past presidents and countless poets who have sung the pawpaw’s praises, to no avail. The national media has turned its attention to pawpaw off and on for decades—from ABC World News to the Washington Post and NPR—often predicting that pawpaws could be the next big thing. And during that same time period, the fruit’s biggest promoters—Neal Peterson and Kirk Pomper, Jerry Lehman and Ron Powell, to name just a few—have been waiting, and working, wondering when it might actually happen.
With the rise of the local food movement, the awareness of the importance of native plants, the search for a return to authentic, regional cuisines, and the desire for organic, sustainable agriculture, the current cultural climate might finally be the one in which pawpaw breaks through. Still, for there to be a national awakening to pawpaws, we’re going to need a lot more fruit.
Wild pawpaws are abundant. But in an urbanized nation, most Americans don’t have access to the fruit. Which puts me in danger of making the same wishful proclamation that James A. Little made in 1905. But since it’s still true, here I go: If Americans want pawpaws, folks will need to start setting them out in orchards, and growing them like any other commercial fruit.
Then again, what if the current excitement over pawpaws is a bubble? What if all this attention leads to large investments, and eventually a bust? It would surely mean heartbreak to some. But for many folks—whose families who have eaten pawpaws for generations—a pawpaw bust won’t mean too much. The annual tradition of pawpaw pickin’ will continue.
Or what if all this attention is a negative thing? Neal Peterson says, “We aren’t there yet, but the bandwagon effect is ultimately a destructive influence. My vision is for something that’s very sustained and is absolutely as solidly a part of what we grow and eat as apples and pears. Not that it’ll ever be that level, and it doesn’t have to be.” Something sustained, something solid. “Are we going to see them at Walmart, fresh?” asks ethnobotanist Steven Bond. “Probably not. And if they ever do find their way to Walmart, fresh, they probably won’t be any good, just like any of the other damn fruit there.”
Will pawpaw become the niche crop that replaces tobacco? Maybe. Maybe not. As a staple for small growers tobacco still appears to be on its way out, but hemp is already making a comeback in states like Kentucky. If hemp turns out to be a winning cash crop for small farmers, it will likely limit the extent to which they add pawpaw trees as a high-earning, niche crop. But perhaps the emerging farmscape will look even different, with no one single crop replacing tobacco. Perhaps a diversified farmscape would be more beneficial—for the environment, for the market, and for consumers—one in which corn and hemp, apples and sorghum, goats and pawpaws, all share space.
Regardless, there’s still a lot of education to be done. The state of Ohio’s 2014 official travel guide—a magazine available at every rest stop on Ohio’s turnpike and interstates—includes a list of the state’s symbols: the state tree, flower, wildflower, bird, and so on, and of course, Ohio’s official state native fruit, the pawpaw, with a color image accompanying each symbol. But for the pawpaw, they printed a cut papaya.
The state of Ohio is in good company. Ahead of Thanksgiving, 2014, the New York Times created a wonderful online feature listing a dish that evoked each of the fifty states. For West Virginia, the Times chose a pawpaw pudding. The feature included wonderful, original illustrations accompanying each dish. For the pawpaw pudding, however, the illustration included was, again, that of a papaya, not a pawpaw. The Times issued a correction, and even a new illustration, but it fell a little short.
On April 2, 2014, First Lady Michelle Obama planted a pawpaw tree at the White House. Working with the founders of FoodCorps and students from DC-area elementary schools, Ms. Obama planted “fruits and vegetables, including collard greens, rhubarb, onions, strawberries, raspberries, and a new addition, a paw paw tree.”1 But just one. Hopefully there are plans for an additional pawpaw tree, because without it, the lone tree is unlikely to bear fruit.
In 2012, Kirk Pomper became associate research director at KSU. He maintains a 25 percent research appointment working with pawpaws, but the time he can devote to Asimina triloba has been greatly diminished. Much of KSU’s pawpaw research is now directed through Sheri Crabtree. She is one of the world’s foremost experts in pawpaw, but to put the development of an entire crop on one person’s shoulders is an incredible weight. So Kirk and Sheri often partner with Ron Powell, Jerry Lehman, the Ohio Pawpaw Growers Association, and others. Meanwhile, the germplasm collection remains intact, and KSU’s future cultivars continue to be observed, and await release.
In 2014, Neal Peterson did not attend the Ohio Pawpaw Festival. He doesn’t always attend, but neither did Ken Drabik, Nate Orr, or Lance Beard. It’s expensive to drive fresh pawpaws from Maryland to Ohio. It promotes pawpaws, which is great, but at this point people know. Still, it feels strange that none of Jim Davis’s pawpaws were sold at the festival.
For some, that’s fine. Chris Chmiel created the festival to celebrate southern Ohio’s bounty of wild pawpaws, and he is clearly succeeding in that mission. But for others, improved pawpaws are essential to the fruit’s future. And despite their growing popularity, there just aren’t enough folks growing pawpaws. That is changing, but growing fruit trees, especially pawpaws, takes time.
Neal Peterson never became a commercial pawpaw producer. He continues to speak and promote pawpaws, he works with nurseries and consults with farmers. And because of a growing demand and interest in pawpaws abroad, Neal is pursuing trademarks and patents for his cultivars to be introduced in Europe and Japan.
Although he does not produce fruit in an orchard, Neal’s breeding work continues. For the past decade he has crossed Asimina triloba with several of the Florida pawpaws—including A. obovata and reticulata—as ornamental landscape plants. The Florida species have inferior fruit—small, seedy, and less sweet—but exceptional, large-lobed blooms. Peterson’s hybrids are cold-hardy, shrub-like, with flowers ranging from maroon to white, and some with blended whirls. And a few of them produce fruit that’s not too bad either. They’re striking, novel plants. The hybrids Neal is now observing are third-generation, and may soon be released—but only if Neal finds a selection that holds up under propagation.
Meanwhile, a large organic farm has been working with Neal, exploring how to plant pawpaw cultivars for market production. The farm is located at the foothills of Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, and in the woods surrounding it pawpaws abound. In fact, the farm has sold these wild pawpaws at farmers markets for several years, earning up to twelve dollars a pound. Still, the farm sees potential in the cultivars, and last spring planted several hundred grafted trees. The pawpaws have struggled through their first summer, perhaps from the heat, direct sun, or a lack of water. The farm may seek further advice from Neal Peterson, from KSU, or from the various fruit growers associations familiar with pawpaws. But if they can survive these first few years, the pawpaws will likely thrive. After all, the trees have done a good job of it here for quite some time.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
I want to thank all of the friends and family who have encouraged and supported me during the research and writing of this book. I must especially thank Erika, for believing in me and this project, and my parents, Barbara and Charles. Thank you to those who took the time to read early versions of the book and provide feedback, including Zach and Melissa; to Jill; and to Ad, for feedback and coaching through the entire process. I am grateful to every person who spent time talking pawpaws with me, including everyone quoted in this book and the many who are not, but especially Derek Morris, Ron and Terry Powell, Kirk Pomper, Sheri Crabtree, Jerry McLaughlin, Jim and Donna Davis, Colleen Anderson, Dale Brooks, Jerry Dedon, Oriana Kruszewski, David Cozzo, Steven Bond, Steve Corso, Matthew Rowley,
Robert Brannan, Wynn Dinnsen, and Jerry Lehman. I want to thank the many terrific librarians and staff at the Carnegie Library of Pittsburgh (especially the Main and Allegheny branches, and the Interlibrary Loan department); and Marta Ramey of the Briggs Lawrence County Public Library in Ironton, Ohio. A big thanks to John Ruskey and Mark “River” Peoples, and to Paul Hartfield, for piloting me down the Mississippi. Thank you to Michael W. Twitty, for early encouragement and direction; to Neal Peterson, who has been a patient teacher and guide; and to Lisa Roney and the many professors, editors, and teachers I have learned from. I want to thank Chelsea Green, and specifically Michael Metivier, for bringing this project to fruition.
Thank you to Scott Bauer of the USDA, Sue Ann Herald, Neal Peterson, Bob Peterson, Dennis Hager, and Ron Powell, for your outstanding photo contributions; and to Lynn Stanko of the National Agricultural Library.
Thanks to all the friends who have joined me at the Ohio Pawpaw Festival; to Jon, for accompanying me on several tours de pawpaw; to Isaac Wiegman, for suggesting I check out some festival in Ohio; and to James, Dom, Gina, Laura, Paul, Jessica, and the many other friends who gave me shelter during my travels.
I would also like to thank all 137 backers of my 2012 Kickstarter campaign for their support that sent me way down yonder, with special thanks to Tori Becker, Gus Lehnerer, Jim Doyle, Justin Geibel, Ed Fore, Claudia Quartana, Sooze Bloom deLeon Grossman, Dwight Bishop, and Mom; to Erika, for shooting the video; to Tim, for website assitance; and to Nina, for lending her expert video-editing skills to the effort.
Finally, thanks to all the pawpaw pickers, growers, writers, and pontificators who have made this unique fruit a compelling part of American culture. There were many pawpaw people before me, and there are many I have yet to meet.
— APPENDIX 1 —
PAWPAW ICE CREAM
Vanilla, walnuts, and other flavors and ingredients work well with pawpaw. But if this is your first batch, I would encourage you to try it plain and to let the pawpaw stand on its own. The following is my basic pawpaw ice cream recipe:
2 cups pawpaw pulp (or more, if you have it)
1 cup sugar
2 cups cream
2 cups milk
Combine the pawpaw and sugar. Stir in the cream and milk. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions.
— APPENDIX 2 —
A SELECTION OF PAWPAW NURSERIES
This listing is not exhaustive, but should be a starting place for those looking to grow pawpaws.
ENGLAND’S ORCHARD AND NURSERY
2338 Highway 2004
McKee, KY 40447-9616
[email protected]
606-965-2228 or 606-493-8239
Cultivars: Davis, Overleese, Rebecca’s Gold, Halvin’s Sidewinder, Summer Delight, and others. Also sells pawpaw seed from Jerry Lehman’s Indiana breeding orchard.
NOLIN RIVER NUT TREE NURSERY
797 Port Wooden Road
Upton, KY 42784
[email protected]
www.nolinnursery.com
270-369-8551
Cultivars: Allegheny, Shenandoah, Susquehanna, Wabash, Rappahannock, Potomac, KSU-Atwood, NC-1, Overleese, Sunflower, Greenriver Belle, PA Golden 1, Sue, and others.
GRIMO NUT NURSERY
979 Lakeshore Rd, RR3
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, Canada ON L0S 1J0
[email protected]
www.grimonut.com
905-934-6887
Grafted and seedling pawpaws.
EDIBLE LANDSCAPING
361 Spirit Ridge Lane
Afton, VA 22920
800-524-4156
[email protected]
www.ediblelandscaping.com
Cultivars: Peterson Pawpaws, Mango, Sunflower, Prolific, NC-1, and others.
NASH NURSERIES
4975 Grand River Road
Owosso, MI 48867
[email protected]
www.nashnurseries.com
517-651-5278
Cultivars: Peterson Pawpaws and others.
FORREST KEELING
88 Forrest Keeling Lane
Elsberry, MO 63343
[email protected]
www.fknursery.com
573-898-5571
Cultivars: Peterson Pawpaws, Mango, NC-1, Overleese, PA-Golden, Sunflower, Wells, and others.
STARK BROS.
P.O. Box 1800
Louisiana, MO 63353
[email protected]
www.starkbros.com
800-325-4180
Cultivars: Mango, NC-1, Prolific, SAA Overleese, Sunflower, and others.
ONE GREEN WORLD
PO Box 881
Mulino, OR 97042
www.onegreenworld.com
877-353-4028
Cultivars: KSU-Atwood, Sunflower, Overleese, Mango, Taylor, NC-1, Peterson Pawpaws, and others.
HIDDEN SPRINGS NURSERY
170 Hidden Springs Lane
Cookeville, TN 38501
[email protected]
hiddenspringsnursery.com
931-268-2592
Cultivars: KSU Atwood, Mango, Mary Foos Johnson, NC-1, Mitchell, Wells, Overleese, and others.
OIKOS
PO Box 19425
Kalamazoo, MI 49019-0425
www.oikostreecrops.com
Seedling pawpaws.
SHADOW NURSERY
254 Shadow Nursery Road
Winchester, TN 37398
[email protected]
www.shadownursery.com
931-967-6059
Cultivars: Mango, Hilcrest, Prolific, Sunflower, Wells, Peterson Pawpaws, and others.
— APPENDIX 3 —
CULTIVAR PROFILES AND IMPRESSIONS
The following is not a comprehensive list of all pawpaw cultivars, but rather a collection of impressions and data from some of the country’s leading pawpaw growers. The listed cultivars were chosen because they are considered exceptional, and for their availability in the trade. These profiles are provided to give the backyard grower and the future orchardist some guidance in selecting which pawpaws to grow. The information below has been gathered from personal conversations and correspondence with growers, as well as the websites of quoted nurserymen, and from the published research of Kentucky State University (KSU notes: “Fruit size categories of small, medium, and large are <100 g, 100 to 150 g, and >150 g, respectively”).
Some cultivars are patented, trademarked, and sold only through licensed nurseries. Others are openly traded.
If you are currently growing pawpaw cultivars, consider joining and reporting your impressions and data to the North American Pawpaw Growers Association, or a corresponding state chapter. There are also a number of horticultural organizations that share and report on the culture of growing pawpaws, from the North American Fruit Explorers and the California Rare Fruit Growers, to the Northern Nut Growers Association and various state organizations.
ALLEGHENY
A Neal Peterson selection that is smaller than others, with fruits typically less than eight ounces. “Flavor sweet, rich, a hint of citrus,” Peterson reports. “Texture medium firm, smooth. Flesh color yellow.” Fruit size is reported to benefit from thinning. Percent seed by weight is about 8 percent.
ARK-21
“It is just like a banana,” says Jerry Dedon. “It is so sweet and so mild. And it’s nothing but a seedling that LSU got from Petit Jean Mountain, Arkansas. Grew wild in the woods.” Dedon says it was his favorite variety growing at LSU’s Regional Variety Trials. Also a favorite of LSU’s Charles Johnson.
DAVIS
A Corwin Davis selection, found growing in the wild in 1959. KSU reports “medium
sized fruit, up to five inches long; green skin; yellow flesh; large seed; ripens first week of October in Michigan.” Derek Morris says, “Good quality, medium to large, light-yellow-fleshed fruits that keep fairly well but fruits are not as large as Overleese or Sunflower. Not much yellowing on skin.”
GREENRIVER BELLE
Original tree found growing in the wild near the Green River in Hart County, Kentucky, selected by Carol Friedman “for large and luscious fruits,” reports Nolin River Nut Tree Nursery. “I think of it has having a very bright flavor, and I know several locals that this one is the hands-down favorite,” says Derek Morris. “Fruits are almost identical to PA-Golden in size and shape though not quite as productive. Unfortunately, not very large-fruited, rather seedy, and fruits do not keep for long before losing quality.” Ron Powell reports little to no Phyllosticta. “My favorite because of its firmer texture,” he says. “Some have reported a cinnamon aftertaste.”
