by Carey, James
Galvanized pipe is notorious for rust, corrosion, and leaks. When this happens, the most prudent solution for a permanent repair is to remove the damaged section and replace it with a new section of threaded pipe. There are other stopgap emergency repair methods that may be used (mentioned later in this chapter), but we consider them temporary at best.
Replacing a section of threaded pipe is not nearly as difficult as you might imagine, thanks to the wide assortment of threaded sections of pipe that are now standard inventory at most hardware stores or home-improvement cen-ters. These prefab sections come in various diameters and lengths. Many stores will custom-cut and thread a section of pipe if a stock item is not available.
To remove and replace threaded pipe, you need these supplies:
Two medium-size pipe wrenches
Hacksaw or reciprocating saw
Penetrating oil or lubricant, like WD-40
Two sections of replacement pipe and a union (Note: The total length of the two pieces of pipe and the union, when fully assembled, must equal the length of the damaged pipe.)
When calculating the overall length of material needed, measure from the face of one fitting to the face of the opposite fitting and add 1 inch. This accounts for 1/2 inch of threads at either end, which overlap into the fittings.
Removing the old pipe
To remove the old pipe, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the main water shut-off valve so that no water flows into your home.
2. Open a faucet at the lowest point in the home to allow the line to empty.
3. Cut through the damaged section using a hacksaw or a reciprocating saw so that the two pieces that remain can be unscrewed from the adjacent fittings.
4. Remove the existing pipe, using two medium pipe wrenches, one gripping the pipe and the other gripping the fitting), and then pry in opposing directions.
Removing the old pipe from the fittings may prove difficult. Prying the two wrenches in opposite directions enhances the leverage needed to break the connection.
If at first you don’t succeed in loosening the connection, spray the area with a penetrating oil or lubricant, such as WD-40, to break down some of the rust and corrosion that prevents the pipe from budging.
5. With the pipe removed, spray the threads within the fittings with more of the penetrating oil, and allow the oil to sit for approximately 15 minutes.
6. After 15 minutes, use a small wire bottle brush to remove any residue, preparing the area for a new leak-free connection.
Picking up the pieces
With your replacement pieces (the two sections of pipe and the union) gathered, follow these steps:
1. Apply a pipe joint compound to the threaded ends and the threads in the fittings, pressing the compound into the threads with a fingertip.
2. Insert the ring nut over one of the sections of pipe.
The union is a fitting that consists of three components: two union nuts and a ring nut. The union nuts attach to the replacement sections of pipe where they join together. The ring nut acts to join the two pieces.
3. Screw both sections of pipe into their respective fittings (where the previously damaged sections were removed).
4. Tighten both sections of pipe and then the ring nut.
Just as with the removal process, using two pipe wrenches makes reassembly easier and safer.
After the section is replaced, complete the process by turning the main water supply on and checking for leaks. Your iron pipe will be as good as new — that is, until the next leak!
Protecting Pipes in Frigid Weather
When the mercury drops, your water pipes become increasingly vulnerable and may freeze and burst. When water freezes, it expands, and the pipes rupture. A burst water line can cause tens of thousands of dollars in damage and forever destroy personal possessions in the path of the raging water. The good news is that you can take steps to help prevent a burst pipe and the chaos that it causes.
An ounce of prevention
The following tips reduce the chances of your pipes freezing and help keep water running in your pipes all winter long:
Turn on your faucets just a little. A faucet left dripping at the fixture farthest from the main water inlet allows just enough warm water movement within the pipes to reduce the chance of a freeze.
Insulate your above-ground pipes. Insulating pipes that are above ground (those that are most susceptible to freezing) prevents them from freezing during most moderate-to-medium chills — even when faucets are off. Be sure to insulate pipes in the crawl space, basement, attic, and especially any that are located at the exterior, such as a main water line and shut-off valve. (See Chapter 4 for more information on insulating pipes.)
Open your cabinets. If the pipes that supply water to your kitchen or bathroom sink faucets are prone to freezing, leave the cabinet doors open at night. The open doors allow warm air to circulate in the cabinet and warm the cold pipes.
Install electric pipe cable. If you’re in an area where temperatures frequently drop below freezing, think about purchasing pipe heating cable. They’re easy to install, inexpensive to operate, and can save a lot of heartache. Pipe heaters plug in to a standard outlet, and the temperature is controlled with a thermostat. All you have to do is wrap a wire around your water pipes — the heater does the rest.
Quick fixes for burst pipes
Being prepared to defend your home’s plumbing system against a sudden burst pipe can save you thousands of dollars in damage. Think of these quick, easy fixes as plumbing first aid — they slow or stop a leak long enough to give you time to enlist the services of a qualified plumber during business hours.
To temporarily stop a pinhole leak, you need to apply pressure to the opening. The solution? Wrap duct tape around the pipe. In many instances, it supplies the necessary pressure. Unfortunately, duct tape doesn’t always give you enough pressure. In that case, you need to move to a more robust fix (see the next section).
Using a C-clamp when you need more pressure
Another way to temporarily stop a small leak involves a C-clamp, a block of wood, and a piece of rubber. Note: Because the block of wood is flat (and the pipe is round), it can only create pressure along a very narrow area of the pipe.
Follow these steps:
1. Turn off the water at the main shut-off valve.
2. Place a piece of rubber over the area where the pipe is leaking.
3. Put the block of wood on top of the piece of rubber.
4. Open the C-clamp wide enough to surround the pipe, the gasket material, and the block of wood.
5. Place the stationary part of the opening of the C-clamp against the pipe (opposite the location of the leak) and the screw part of the C-clamp against the block of wood. Tighten the screw clamp until it’s snug.
Junkyards are filled with rubber that can be had for pennies. Old automotive radiator and heater hoses are just what the doctor ordered. If you have a friend who works on cars, he’ll probably be glad to give you all you need.
Using a sleeve clamp for larger leaks
A sleeve clamp stops everything from pinhole leaks to larger leaks. (Forget searching out a piece of rubber for this one — a sleeve clamp comes with its own gasket.) A sleeve clamp consists of two semicircular pieces of metal that, when put together, completely surround the pipe — hence, the name sleeve. The clamp is about 3 inches long, but you have to buy one to fit your specific pipe size — a sleeve clamp made to repair 1/2-inch pipe is smaller than one needed to repair 3/4-inch pipe.
Other than the sleeve clamp, you only need a screwdriver. Here’s how it works (see Figure 7-1):
1. Wrap the damaged section of pipe with the gasket material provided.
2. Surround the gasket-wrapped pipe with the two semicircular clamps.
3. Tighten the screws that connect the two halves of the sleeve clamp.
Figure 7-1: Using a sleeve clamp.
No one relishes the idea of spending money on plumbing repa
ir items on the off chance that they may be needed. But if you think about it, things like hose clamps, C-clamps, duct tape, and rubber are pretty cheap, especially when you consider how much money they can save you if your pipes do spring a leak. These simple items are good junk to have in your workshop.
Quieting Noisy Water Pipes
Imagine a fast-moving stream of water traveling down a narrow pipe. Suddenly and unexpectedly, the water finds a closed valve in place of what, moments earlier, was an escape point. All of a sudden, the water has nowhere to go. As it comes to an abrupt stop, a loud thud results, and it can be heard throughout the entire house. This deafening sound is known as a water hammer. The hammering action that creates the horrible racket is actually capable of damaging joints and connections in the pipe.
Combating water hammers with air chambers
An air chamber is a vertical pipe located in the wall cavity at the point near a faucet or valve where the water-supply pipe exits the wall. Air chambers act as cushions to prevent water from slamming against the piping. Because air compresses, it absorbs the shock of the fast-moving water before it has a chance to slam against the end of the pipe. Many household plumbing systems have air chambers built in to them at critical locations — like the clothes washer and dishwasher — where electric shut-off valves close rapidly. In some homes, air chambers exist at every location where water is turned on and off — even the toilet.
To eliminate a water hammer, you need to replenish all the air chambers with air. You can’t inspect the air chambers, so this procedure is a must whenever you notice a faint noise in the pipe. Here’s how:
1. Shut off your home’s main water supply valve.
2. Open the highest faucet inside your house.
3. Find the lowest faucet on the property — it’s usually on the first floor somewhere outside or in the basement — and turn it on to completely drain all water from the pipes.
As the water drains from the pipes, air automatically replaces it.
4. The moment the water is completely drained from the piping, turn off the lowest faucet and reopen the main valve.
Air pushes out of the horizontal and open vertical water lines, sputtering as it exits the faucets inside. However, air remains in the air chambers, eliminating water hammer.
Tightening loose mounting straps
Sometimes a water hammer can occur when a pipe-mounting strap is loose. These straps consist of metal plumber’s tape or the vinyl-coated nail-in hooks and hangers that attach pipes to roof, wall, and floor framing. A loose pipe strap allows the pipe to freely vibrate against framing members as water is turned on and off. Check all accessible pipes to ensure that they’re properly and tightly connected.
Never use galvanized plumber’s tape or galvanized straps on copper pipe. When different metals contact one another, electrolysis can occur, which can lead to a plumbing leak.
Adjusting too-high water pressure
Another reason for banging pipes is excessively high water pressure. You can adjust water pressure with a water-pressure regulator or pressure-reducing valve. Most modern homes have a regulator mounted at the location where the main water supply enters the home.
If you don’t have a regulator, consider having one installed. A professionally installed pressure regulator can cost several hundred dollars, but it’s a good investment in the long run. (Only do-it-yourselfers with some serious plumbing skills should try to install a pressure regulator themselves.)
Not only is high water pressure wasteful, but it can damage dishwashers, icemakers, washing machines, and other water-supplied automatic appliances. In fact, many appliance warranties are voided when water pressure exceeds 100 pounds per square inch (psi). Testing water pressure is important regardless of whether you have a pressure regulator.
You can test the water pressure yourself using a water-pressure gauge that screws onto a hose bib; in most communities, the water department will conduct the test at no charge. Normal water pressure runs between 30 and 55 psi. If you already have a regulator, use a screwdriver or wrench to adjust it so that the pressure doesn’t exceed 50 psi (see Figure 7-2).
By the way, if you have low water pressure, consider adding a booster pump.
Figure 7-2: Adjusting the water pressure.
Some Like It Hot: Your Water Heater
Thanks to the water heater, it’s been a while since our modern civilized society heated water for daily use over an open flame. Instead, the dilemma facing most folks is one of short showers and high utility bills. If this situation sounds familiar, it’s time to take action! A bit of preventive maintenance on the water heater can provide hot water longer, result in energy savings, and even extend the life of the water heater.
Maintaining your water heater
A water heater, shown in Figure 7-3, has three basic parts: the enclosure, the water tank assembly, and the burner and control assembly. The enclosure holds everything together and protects the tank and other fragile parts from damage. The water tank stores water that arrives cold and leaves heated. The burner and control assembly are responsible for heating the water, discharging combustion gases, and adjusting the temperature. An electric water heater varies slightly. It has an enclosure and a tank, but instead of a burner, it contains one or two electric elements that heat the water. Consequently, there is no need for a flue to exhaust combustion gases. Aside from these fundamental differences, gas and electric water heaters function essentially the same and require essentially the same tender loving care.
Figure 7-3: The major parts of gas-fired and electric water heaters.
Insulating for improved efficiency
An insulation blanket can make some water heaters more energy efficient. If your water heater is located in unconditioned space (a garage, basement, or attic) or you don’t want added heat, install a heavy blanket — R-11 or better. The higher the R value, the thicker the blanket and the more insulating horsepower.
An insulation blanket is not recommended for a water heater located where its lost heat could be utilized. Nor is a blanket necessary if you have a new water heater that is factory insulated with R-16 or better. (The factory-installed insulation is located between the metal shell and the tank, so don’t worry if you can’t see it.) The manufacturer’s label will tell you how much insulation your water heater contains.
You purchase a water-heater insulation blanket as a kit based on the size of the heater — 30 gallons, 40 gallons, 50 gallons, and so on. The kit contains a blanket that’s finished with white vinyl on the outside and raw insulation on the inside and enough adhesive tape to finish the seams.
Here’s how to wrap your water heater with an insulation blanket:
If you have a gas water heater: Wrap your gas water heater all the way around and from the top to just below the controller. Don’t worry if the blanket seems a bit short. Remember: The bottom of the tank is several inches above the very bottom of the water heater — a couple of inches below the drain valve.
Don’t wrap the top of a gas water heater because the insulation could catch fire from the heat being exhausted. Also, the blanket should not cover the controller, the anode, or the pressure and temperature relief valve.
If you have an electric water heater: Because electric water heaters have no exhaust, you can insulate the sides and the top. But to prevent electrical components from overheating, don’t cover the heating-element access panels.
Keeping your water heater clear of sludge
If the bottom of your water heater fills with sludge, the heater won’t operate at peak performance. Aside from being a breeding ground for bacteria, sediment at the base of a tank significantly diminishes the efficiency of a gas water heater and can cause it to rumble like a freight train. Sediment buildup also causes the water at the base of the tank to super-heat and turn to steam, resulting in mini explosions that blast small amounts of sediment off the bottom of the tank.
To clean the sediment out of a water heater, follow these steps:
1. Turn off the power to the water heater and the cold-water inlet valve at the top of the water heater.
