by Carey, James
1. Prepare the room.
Make sure to:
• Remove lamps, irreplaceable knickknacks, and as much furniture as you can, and then push whatever is left to the middle of the room.
• Remove anything attached to the walls, including pictures, window treatments, and switch and outlet plates.
• Loosen ceiling light fixtures and wrap them in plastic trash bags.
• Take off all the window and door hardware.
• Cover every inch of everything — floor, furniture, and radiators — with canvas or heavy-plastic dropcloths.
2. Clean the surface (see the “Cleaning Walls and Ceilings” section, earlier in this chapter, for details).
If you have mildew on a wall, you need to kill it and cover the remaining stain with a stain sealer primer made to hide stains. (See Chapter 20 for more information on killing mildew.)
3. Prepare the surface.
To prepare the surface, you need to:
• Fill nail holes, cracks, and other imperfections with patching compound.
• Scrape any loose or flaking paint on windows, sills, and woodwork. (See the nearby sidebar, “Removing paint from woodwork,” for more information.)
• Sand patches and any bare areas on windows, sills, and woodwork.
• Lightly sand or use a deglosser to knock down the shine on glossy trim. A deglosser is essentially liquid sandpaper. It etches the existing finish that will help the new paint stick.
• Lightly sand walls if they’re uneven, brush-marked, or bumpy.
• Fill gaps between the trim and the walls (especially along the baseboards and door trim) with caulk.
4. Clean again.
Vacuum the room to remove sanding dust and paint flakes (don’t forget to do the windowsills and trim). Then wipe down everything with a tack cloth or barely damp rag. (A tack cloth is a piece of cloth that is coated in a sticky [tacky] substance so that dust and particles stick to it.)
5. Mask the windows.
Use wax paper or a layer of thin plastic taped to the windows to prevent paint splatters on the glass.
Use painter’s tape when masking for paint prep. It contains less adhesive, which means it will be easier to remove and will cause less potential damage when peeled off. Although it’s often referred to as blue painter’s tape, it’s available in a host of colors with varying degrees of adhesive designed to last for varying amounts of time.
Now you’re ready to gather your supplies.
Removing paint from woodwork
For most woodwork, a putty knife and sandpaper remove loose flakes. But if your woodwork has 37 layers on it, try a scraper. Use a scraper designed specifically for moldings. If that doesn’t work well, or if you’re a little low on elbow grease, try an electric heat gun or chemical stripper. Heat guns soften the paint so that it can be scraped away. Strippers also soften the paint for easier scraping. Don’t even think about using a propane torch as you would outside.
Scraping, sanding, or using a heat gun is not an option if the paint contains lead. Be safe, not sorry. Your local hardware store or home center carries a special test kit that will tell you if lead exists. The test takes only minutes, and you’re always better off taking the time to check.
If your paint contains lead, and it’s not peeling or flaking, your best bet is to simply give it a TSP wash and apply a fresh coat of primer and finish. If the paint is in anything but pristine condition, or if you simply want it out of your home, we suggest that you hire a professional lead-paint abatement contractor to carefully remove the paint.
Gathering your paint and painting supplies
After you’ve scraped, sanded, filled holes, sanded again, and cleaned, the preparation phase is complete and painting can begin, right? Not quite yet. Not until you gather your paint and painting supplies.
Selecting a primer
Primer creates a stronger bond between the paint and the wall, helps resist attack by moisture, fills small cracks, and smoothes and seals the surface so that finish coats are more uniform and lustrous, as well as longer lasting.
When you patch a spot or scrape down to bare wood, you create a rough, porous area that absorbs more paint than the area around it, creating uneven gloss and an area that is a slightly different in color than the surrounding area. Primer seals the area so this doesn’t happen. A stain-killing primer also keeps mysterious dark marks, water stains, crayon, marker, and pen from bleeding through to the final finish.
If you can, use the same brand of primer and paint. Manufacturers formulate their paints and primers so that they work well together. In general, oil-based primers are the best (you can apply latex paint over them). The label on the paint will likely designate the type of primer to use. If you’re still not sure, ask one of the experts at the paint store to help you select a primer.
Selecting a paint
Latex paints are the top choice for walls and ceilings. Don’t let anyone tell you differently. They dry quickly and clean up with soap and water.
Sure, if latex paints aren’t thin enough and wet enough to begin with, they can dry so quickly that brush marks and lap marks (also called dry edge, where a line left by the edge of the roller is visible) are hard to avoid. And, yeah, they don’t stand up to scrapes and clunks as well as oil-based paints do. But the pluses far outweigh the minuses, particularly when you consider that latex paints contain no toxic solvents.
Check out Mythic Paint (www.mythicpaint.com). This company is the first to offer a completely 0 percent toxic latex paint — no toxic solvents and no toxic components.
Oil-based paints, on the other hand, are still the best choice for doors and trim. They dry slowly, giving brushstrokes time to disappear. They also dry to a very hard, durable finish. They offer greater moisture resistance, which makes them perfect for the walls and ceilings of damp areas such as the kitchen, bathroom, and laundry room. However, cleanup requires solvents, and as oil-based paints dry, they release volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into the air. (For the sake of the environment, when purchasing oil-based paint, be sure to look for a low-VOC product. Low-VOC paints contain fewer toxic chemicals.)
Buy the highest-quality paint you can afford — unless you like to paint. If you use poor-quality paint, you’ll probably need to apply more than two coats — plus, you get to paint again in just a few years. Why not do the job right the first time?
Want to know just how good your paint really is? Try this test: First, have the can of paint shaken really well at a paint store. (Paint stores have machines for this.) Next, open the can and dip the tip of your index finger into the well-blended liquid. Finally, rub your index finger against your thumb. If the paint feels gritty, it contains too much filler and is of poor quality. A high-quality paint will feel silky and smooth.
How much paint should you buy? Measure the area (square footage) of your walls and ceiling, look on the can of paint to see how many square feet it can cover, and divide your room square footage by that amount. You can do the same thing for the trim.
When buying paint, err on the high side. You can always use the extra for touchups. Erring on the low side may bring you back to the store for the same color mixed on a different date. Can you spell mismatch?
Getting the right painting tools
When you’re getting ready to paint, you need the following supplies:
A trim brush: A 2-inch brush for painting door trim and other wide moldings.
A sash brush: A 11/2-inch angled brush made for detail painting of windows and narrow trim pieces.
A roller: A fabric covered hollow cylinder (typically 9 inches long) that fits over a metal roller frame. You use a roller when you want to paint a large area, like a wall; you use paintbrushes for the detail work. The nap (length of the fabric) varies depending upon the desired finish. In general, use a short nap for smooth surfaces and a long nap for rough surfaces.
When buying a paintbrush, consider the following:
The handle should feel
good in your hand. You’re going to be holding it for a while.
The metal piece that holds the bristles should be securely attached.
The bristles should fan out, not separate, when you press them against your palm.
The bristles should be smooth, straight, and have tiny split ends.
The bristles should stay attached when you lightly tug on them.
The brush should be appropriate for the kind of paint and surface that you want to paint. For example, thick fluffy rollers are for rough surfaces, and tight-nap rollers are for smooth surfaces. The kind of roller you need also depends on the paint and surface in question. Ask a sales assistant for help.
Don’t even think about using a sprayer to paint indoors. The same goes for power rollers. You’ll make a big mess.
You may have heard some buzz about heat-reflective paint. It may be easy enough to warm up to in a laboratory, and we’ve witnessed impressive tests under controlled conditions, but we aren’t privy to any government-approved or -recommended household uses. As far as we’re concerned, the jury is still out on this one.
Painting made easy
You’ve bought the right paint. You’ve got good brushes and rollers. The room is thoroughly prepped. Everything is covered up. It’s time to actually paint.
A good paint job consists of three basic steps: priming, applying a first coat of finish paint, and applying a second coat of finish paint.
Before you do anything, stir the paint thoroughly. Paint looks better and lasts longer if all its components are mixed well from the start. Three minutes is a good amount of stirring time.
Always paint a room from top to bottom. The job will go faster — and turn out better — if you follow this sequence:
1. Paint the ceiling, using a trim brush and a roller.
Using the trim brush, paint a 2- to 4-inch-wide strip that feathers out toward the middle of the room. Then paint the rest of the ceiling immediately with a roller, starting in a corner and painting across the narrowest dimension of the room.
2. Starting when the ceiling is dry, paint the walls with a trim brush and roller.
Do one wall at a time. With a trim brush, cut in where the walls meet the ceiling, around the doors and windows, and along the baseboards. Use a roller for the rest.
3. Paint the windows, using an angular sash brush, and, if you prefer, a smaller brush for the dividers.
4. Paint the doors, using a trim brush.
Work quickly but carefully. Paint all the edges, but not the hinges.
5. Using a sash brush, paint the door and window trim — edges first and then the face.
6. Paint the baseboards, using a sash brush.
Protect the floor or carpet with painter’s tape or a paint shield.
Here are a few more helpful hints to getting a great-looking paint job:
Work with a partner if you can. One of you can cut in the edges, and the other can follow along with the roller!
Use plenty of paint. Most do-it-yourselfers try to make a brush full or roller full go too far. Hey, it ain’t champagne! If you skimp on the paint, you’ll end up with a room that looks yucky.
Two thin, wet coats of paint always flow better and, thus, dry smoother than one thick, dry coat. Adding a bit of water to latex paint or thinner to oil-based paint will cause the paint to be thinner and wetter.
Adding a teaspoon of vanilla extract to a gallon of latex paint can make the drying process a sweeter-smelling experience. You can also try a fragrance available at the paint store.
Cleaning up right, storing smart
Latex paint cleans up with water. Wash the brush under warm water, making sure to work any paint out of the base of the bristles and the ferrule (the metal band). Shake or snap the brush to get the water out, and hang it up to dry, bristles down. During short breaks — lunch, siesta, poker game — cover your paintbrushes and equipment with plastic wrap to keep them from drying out.
To clean up oil-based paint or primer, use paint thinner. Fill an old coffee can with enough thinner to cover the bristles and ferrule and slosh the brush around, allowing the thinner to dissolve the paint. Remove the brush from the thinner and tap the ferrule firmly against the edge of a paint bucket (bristles pointing toward the inside of the bucket) to remove the thinned paint. Repeat this process until the brush is clean. It’s a messy, stinky job. Luckily, you only need to clean your brushes once at the end of the job. When you stop for the day, wrap the brushes in plastic wrap and store them in the fridge overnight, and they’ll be ready to go (once warmed to room temperature) when you start again.
To store paint (whether latex or oil-based), place a sheet of plastic wrap over the mouth of the can, and then put on the lid. Tap the lid into place snugly (use a rubber mallet or a hammer and a small piece of wood). Store the can upside-down. Your paint will be usable for years, because you’ve created an airtight seal.
Making Paneling Look like New
Most houses more than 25 years old have at least one room with paneling. Believe it or not, paneling was very chic at one time, and it still has its place in Dad’s den, the basement rec room, and rustic homes. There are three kinds of paneling — solid wood planks, plywood sheets, and faux-finished hardboard.
Cleaning and oiling paneling
If you have solid wood or plywood on the wall, you can do a number of things to make it look like new. Cleaning is the easiest and most effective way to brighten the finish:
1. Mix equal parts of white vinegar, turpentine, and boiled linseed oil in a small container.
Furniture polish won’t do the job — you need something stronger.
2. While wearing rubber gloves, dip a soft, clean, colorless cloth into the solution, wipe it on the paneling, and rub it in.
3. Scrub the cleaner and moisturizer into the surface until it starts to evaporate.
4. Finish up by wiping off the excess with a dry cloth.
You’ll be amazed by the results.
If your wood walls are just dry, bring them back to life by wiping on lemon oil. Lemon oil is an excellent cleaner as well.
Correcting surface imperfections
To patch a small hole or surface imperfection, use wood dough, and then camouflage the repair with a color-match touch-up stick or, if you’re feeling artsy, by applying a faux finish.
Faux finishing is literally an art. If it’s done well, faux finishing makes the painted surface look exactly like the existing wood surface. You can’t tell the area of the repair from the surrounding texture, color, or grain pattern. Faux finishing is a job for experts, though, and it’s expensive. If the paneling is beautiful and isn’t available anymore, a faux finish could be the least-expensive repair alternative.
If you’re tired of the dark, woody look that paneling provides, but you like the texture of real wood, you can paint it. First, wash the surface with a solution of TSP (see the “Cleaning Walls and Ceilings” section, earlier in this chapter). When the surface is dry, prime it with an oil-based stain-killer primer. If you want to eliminate the grooves between the boards, fill them with vinyl spackling compound, sand, and prime. Finish the job with a good-quality latex paint.
Wondering about Wallpaper
Time is not kind to wallpaper: The edges peel and buckle, the adhesive gets tired and crumbles, bubbles develop, and the wear and tear of normal life starts to take a visible toll. Oh, and don’t forget wallpaper patterns that become outrageously outdated. If replacement is in order, we can tell you how to easily remove what you have. But that doesn’t mean that you have to rip it down. If it’s still looking good and in style, we can help you repair everything else.
