The Perfect Meal

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The Perfect Meal Page 22

by John Baxter


  porters in, 281–82

  relocation of, 288

  Little Prince, The (Saint-Éxupéry), 214

  Loncle, Anne, 215

  Long Way Round, 164–65

  Lord of Misrule, 339

  Lottman, Herbert, 35

  Louis XIV, King, 124, 131–33, 137

  Louis XV, King, 63

  menu served to, 133–35

  Lully, Jean-Baptiste, 132

  lumpfish, 66

  macarons, 77–78, 80

  Macdonald, Hector, 325–26

  MacDonald, Jeanette, 200

  Machiavelli, Niccolò, 96

  “mad cow” disease, 222

  madeleines, 29, 76, 78, 79, 81, 84, 87, 91–92

  Mad Max II, 221

  Madonna of the Sleeping Cars, The (Dekobra), 200

  Ma Maison, 230

  mandolines, 97

  Man Ray, 208, 304

  maple syrup schnapps, 45

  Marie-Antoinette, 75

  markets, 15–17, 22–24, 157, 243

  in Antibes, 216–18

  in Bergerac, 116–18

  Les Halles, 238, 241–42, 279–82, 281, 285–88

  onion soup outside of, 287

  porters in, 281–82

  relocation of, 288

  Marmite, 299

  Maroons, 324–25

  Mary, Queen, 298

  Mathews, Harry, 270–71

  Mayle, Peter, 203–4

  McDonald’s, 223–26

  McGregor, Ewan, 165

  McMurtry, Larry, 61

  meat, 159–78, 221–22

  bear, 176

  beef, 219–20, 226

  bourguignon, 243, 255, 258

  bourguignon recipe, 364–66

  burgers, 8, 222–26, 234

  carpetbag steak, 99

  ox, 8, 24, 38, 53, 75, 220–21, 258

  ox roast, 326–28, 329–41, 344–51, 349, 350

  scandals connected with, 222

  tartare, 226–35

  truffles and, 108

  dormouse, 164

  elephant, 171, 172, 174

  ham, 239

  haggis, 182–84

  hare, 240–41

  horse, 168, 175, 344

  kangaroo, 176, 347–48

  kebab, 184–89

  monkey, 172

  pork, 7, 163

  pigs’ feet, 241

  potted, 300

  rat, 168, 176

  testicles, 164–65

  tripe, 164, 170

  veal, 164, 219

  wolf, 176–77

  zoo animals, 171–72, 171

  mecs, 283, 284

  Medici, Lorenzo de’, 96, 125

  Melba, Nellie, 263

  Melba Toast, 263

  menus:

  author’s Perfect Meal, 353–55

  for Louis XV, 133–35

  of 1912, 18–21, 25

  Voisin Christmas dinner, 173, 175–78

  Milhaud, Darius, 200

  Miller, George, 221

  Millet, Catherine, 303–4, 305, 314

  Mine au Poivre, Le, 252–58

  Minipalais, 2–6

  Mitterrand, François, 127

  Molière, 132

  Monde, Le, 10

  monkeys, 172

  Monte Carlo (film), 200

  Montel, Marie-Dominique, 51, 55–60, 64, 70–71, 103–4, 112, 115, 189, 194–96, 202, 226–29, 234–35, 247–48, 291, 329–39, 343, 345, 350

  Montmartre, 239, 286

  Cimetiére, 252–53

  Montmorency, 238, 238, 239, 240

  Montparnasse, 240, 241

  Montreuil, 238

  Morris dances, 339

  moules, 190–93, 237

  Moulin de Mougins, 212

  Mousse d’Écrevisse, 14

  Mouvet, Maurice, 284–85

  Murphy, Gerald, 205, 206, 208

  Murphy, Sara, 206, 208

  mushrooms, 98–102, 115, 239

  button, 100

  truffles, 95, 97, 103–9

  beef and, 108

  hunting of, 104–5, 109

  wood, 101, 102

  mussels, 147–48, 190–93

  eclade, 189–90, 193–97

  moules, 190–93, 237

  Mystique de la gare de Perpignan (Dalí), 302–3

  napkins, 130

  Napoleon III, Emperor, 166, 174

  Newby, Eric, 206

  New Yorker, The, 228, 286, 301

  New York Herald, The, 325–26

  New York Times, 272

  Nijinsky, Vaslav, 253

  Ninotchka, 170

  Noailles, Marie-Laure de, 207, 304–5

  nobility, 125

  noisette, 315–16

  Noix de Marcassin Sauce Chasseur, 20

  nostalgie de la boue, 192

  Nouvelle Observateur, 228–29

  Nuoc Mam, 310

  onion soup, 241–42, 244, 247–48, 252, 255–56, 274–75, 279, 286–87, 287

  making of, 288–92

  wine in, 287

  On the Origin of Species (Darwin), 172

  ortolans, 126–27, 126, 181

  Orwell, George, 268, 282

  Osborn, John, 300

  ox, 8, 24, 38, 53, 75, 220–21, 258

  roasting of, 326–28, 329–41, 344–51, 349, 350

  oysters, 244

  pain Poilâne, 36

  pansies, 1, 6, 7

  Paris:

  dishes unique to, 237–42

  Les Halles, 238, 241–42, 279–82, 281, 285–88

  onion soup outside, 287

  porters in, 281–82

  relocation of, 288

  siege of, 166–76, 321

  Paris Diary of Ned Rorem (Rorem), 141

  Parker, Dorothy, 208

  Parker, Robert B., 95

  pastries, 76–77, 79–80

  Patti, Adelina, 263–64

  Patum Peperium (Gentleman’s Relish), 300–301, 310

  recipe for, 357–58

  Paz, Octavio, 279

  Peach Melba, 263

  Pearl, Cora, 262

  pensées, 10

  Peppermint Crisp, 28–29

  Perelman, S. J., 41

  Perpignan, 301–2, 306, 307

  Pershing, John J., 4–5

  Petite Cour, La, 108

  petit fours, 75–76

  Petit Vatel, Le, 139

  Petronius, 179–80

  pet de nonne (nun’s fart), 80, 80

  Piaf, Edith, 81

  Picasso, Pablo, 201, 208, 340

  pigs’ feet, 241

  pineau, 51

  Piping in the Haggis, 182

  plateau de fruits de mer, 154–55, 157, 158

  Plath, Sylvia, 64

  Pommes de Terre à la Crème, 36–37

  Pope, Alexander, 113

  pork, 7, 163

  pigs’feet, 241

  Porter, Cole, 202, 206, 208

  porters (forts ), 281–82

  Potage Gentilhomme, 269–70

  potage printanier, 246–47

  potage St. Germain, 239–40

  potatoes:

  Pommes de Terre à la Crème, 36–37

  Potage Gentilhomme, 269–70

  potted meats, 300

  Pottery: Home Made Potted Foods, Meat and Fish Pastes, Savoury Butters and others, 295

  poulet chasseur, 36

  Poulet String Quartet, 36–37

  poultry, 125–26

  chicken, 20, 125, 162–63

  tikka masala, 190

  duck, 8, 21, 125

  canard Montmorency, 239, 240

  Guinea Hen à la Escoffier, 272

  recipe for, 360–62

  lark, 125, 177

  ortolan, 126–27, 126, 181

  Powell, Michael, 200

  Pride and Prejudice (Austen), 145

  Procacci, 103–4

  prostitutes, 282–83, 288

  Proust, Marcel, 29, 36, 55, 56, 82–89, 91–93, 272

  Provence, 202–4, 209–10

  Cannes, 211–
12

  Côte d’Azur, 199–209

  herbes de Provence, 210–11, 212, 216

  Provence (Sarton), 199

  Prussia, 14, 166, 174, 267, 268, 292–93

  Psalm 78, 343

  Pulp Fiction, 219

  Pump Room, 184, 188

  rascasse, 151, 153, 155–56

  rat meat, 168, 176

  Real Barbecue (Staten and Johnson), 179

  recipes, 357–66

  Boeuf Bourguignon, 364–66

  Bouillabaisse, 358–60

  Gentleman’s Relish, 357–58

  Guinea Hen à l’Escoffier, 360–62

  Kir Royal Florian, 357

  Parfait Swann, 363–64

  Sautéed Figs as a Vegetable, 362–63

  Red Shoes, The, 29, 38, 200

  Renaissance, 95–96

  repas, 10–13, 166

  restaurant, origin of word, 249

  restaurants, 21, 230

  Auberge du Vieux Château, 214–15

  Café au Chai de l’Abbaye, 67–68

  Café Croissant, 33–34

  cafés, 23, 35, 35, 285–86

  Chandelle Verte, 31–33

  coffee in, 319, 320

  fast-food, 224

  McDonald’s, 223–26

  Léon de Bruxelles, 193

  losing temper in, 250–52

  Ma Maison, 230

  Mine au Poivre, 252–58

  Minipalais, 2–6

  Moulin de Mougins, 212

  Petite Cour, 108

  Petit Vatel, 139

  Pump Room, 184, 188

  Rhumerie, 318–19

  on Sunday, 243–48

  Voisin, 170–71, 173–78

  Rhumerie, La, 318–19

  Ritz, César, 170, 259–60, 265–66, 268

  Ritz-Carlton, 266, 271–72

  Ritz Hotel, 36, 265–66

  Ritz Hotel Development Company, 265–66

  Riviera, 199–209

  Rorem, Ned, 141, 207, 304

  rosolio, 47

  rouille, 155

  Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam (Fitzgerald), 60

  Russian service, 128, 268

  Saint-Éxupéry, Antoine de, 214, 216, 218, 340

  Saint-Germain, 238, 239

  Saint Simon, Duc de, 131

  salads:

  mixed, 224–25

  Niçoise, 210

  Salt (Kurlansky), 306

  sandwiches, 297–99

  cucumber, 298

  sugar, 299

  sappers, 164

  Sarkozy, Nicolas, 11

  Sarton, May, 199

  Sartre, Jean-Paul, 322

  Satyricon (Petronius), 179–80

  sauces:

  Choron, 178

  tartare, 233

  Saucier’s Apprentice, The (Perelman), 41

  sausage, 24

  Sautéed Figs as a Vegetable, 362–63

  Savoy Hotel, 170, 260–61, 265–66

  Sax, Adolphe, 253

  scorpion fish (rascasse), 151, 153, 155–56

  siege of Paris, 166–76

  service à la Russe, 128, 269

  service française, 269

  Sète, 146–52, 237

  Seven Deadly Sins, The, 246

  Sévigné, Madame de, 136–37

  shashlik, 184

  Shearer, Moira, 200

  siege of Paris, 166–76, 321

  Smollett, Tobias, 249

  snails, 7–8

  socca, 217–18, 237

  Soufflé de Volaille Talleyrand, 20, 21

  soup, 243, 248

  asparagus, 5–6, 252

  bouillabaisse, 142–44, 150–58, 150, 152, 202, 237

  recipe for, 358–60

  bouillon, 248–50, 252, 258, 275–77, 288–89

  powdered, 293

  cabbage, 32–33

  onion, 241–42, 244, 247–48, 252, 255–56, 274–75, 279, 286–87, 287

  making of, 288–92

  wine in, 287

  Potage Gentilhomme, 269–70

  potage printanier, 246–47

  potage St. Germain, 239–40

  spaghetti sauce, 141–42

  Spain, 312

  Star Wars, 87, 114

  Staten, Vince, 179

  Stein, Gertrude, 27

  Stoppard, Tom, 137

  Street, Julian, 261, 283, 286

  sturgeon, 62–66, 69–74

  Swann’s Way (Du Côté de Chez Swann) (Proust), 82–84, 92–93

  sweetbreads, 164

  tablier de sapeur, 164

  Tacitus, 123

  tapioca, 66

  Tarantino, Quentin, 219

  tartare, 226–35

  tarts, 76–77

  tea, 323

  tea, afternoon, 296–99

  Tender Is the Night (Fitzgerald), 208–9

  testicles, 164–65

  Texas caviar, 66

  Thanksgiving, 181

  theatre and spectacle, 179–97

  tikka masala, 190

  Tim, 153–57

  Toklas, Alice B., 162–63, 292

  Tolkien, J. R. R., 1

  Toujours Provence (Mayle), 203

  Train Bleu, Le, 199–201, 209

  tripe, 164, 170

  truffles, 95, 97, 103–9

  beef and, 108

  hunting of, 104–5, 109

  Tschirky, Oscar, 273

  tzimmes, 246

  Ulysses (Joyce), 22

  UNESCO, 10–13, 18, 25, 37

  Utrillo, Maurice, 287

  Valéry, Paul, 148–49

  Van Damme, Jean-Claude, 190–91

  Vanity Fair, 273

  Van Lancker, Léon, 193

  Vatel, 137

  Vatel, François, 122–24, 123, 128, 132–33, 135–39, 179, 261

  Vaugirard, 238, 239

  veal, 164, 219

  Vegemite, 299, 310

  vegetables, 160, 170, 221–22

  vegetarianism, 160, 221

  Vendôme Table Delicacies, 62–63

  Versailles, 132

  Victoria, Queen, 105

  Vie Sexuelle de Catherine M., La (Millet), 303

  Villa America, 206, 208

  Villain, Raoul, 33

  Voisin, 170–71, 173–78

  von Liebig, Justus, 293

  Walbrook, Anton, 29, 30

  Waldorf-Astoria, 273

  wedding cakes, 76, 181

  Wharton, Edith, 49–50

  whitefish, 67

  Wilhelm II, Kaiser, 14–15

  Willan, Anne, 239, 241

  Wilson, Robert Forrest, 78–79

  wine, 43, 174, 287–88

  in onion soup, 287

  wolf, 176–77

  Worcestershire sauce, 310

  Wordsworth, William, 207

  “Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction, The” (Benjamin), 303

  World War I, 50, 85, 333

  Wren, Christopher, 122

  Year in Provence, A (Mayle), 203

  Young, Terence, 298

  Zeus, 113

  Zola, Émile, 280, 285

  zoo animals, 171–72, 171

  zucchini flowers, 111, 216

  About the Author

  © Rudy Gelenter

  John Baxter has lived in Paris for more than twenty years. He is the author of three acclaimed memoirs about his life in France: The Most Beautiful Walk in the World: A Pedestrian in Paris; Immoveable Feast: A Paris Christmas; and We’ll Always Have Paris: Sex and Love in the City of Light. Baxter, who gives literary walking tours through Paris, is also a film critic and biographer whose subjects have included the directors Fellini, Kubrick, Woody Allen, and most recently, Josef von Sternberg. Born in Australia, he lives with his wife and daughter in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood, in the same building Sylvia Beach called home.

  Visit www.AuthorTracker.com for exclusive information on your favorite HarperCollins authors.

  Other Works

  Also by John Baxter

  The Most Beautiful Walk in the World
r />   Von Sternberg

  Carnal Knowledge

  Immoveable Feast

  We’ll Always Have Paris

  A Pound of Paper

  Science Fiction in the Cinema

  The Cinema of Josef von Sternberg

  Buñuel

  Fellini

  Stanley Kubrick

  Steven Spielberg

  Woody Allen

  George Lucas

  Robert DeNiro

  Translated by John Baxter

  My Lady Opium by Claude Farrère

  Morphine by Jean-Louis Dubut de Laforest

  The Diary of a Chambermaid by Octave Mirbeau

  Gamiani, or Two Night of Excess by Alfred de Musset

  Copyright

  Cover design by Milan Bozic

  Cover illustration by Joe Ciardiello

  All images from the collection of the author.

  THE PERFECT MEAL. Copyright © 2013 by John Baxter. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this e-book on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, downloaded, decompiled, reverse-engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins ebooks.

  FIRST EDITION

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available upon request.

  ISBN 9780062088062

  EPUB Edition March 2013 ISBN 9780062088079

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  * For anyone who harbors such low intentions, the recipe (among others) is included at the back of this book.

 

 

 


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