by Susan Marks
154 “I recommend that you try”: Betty Crocker Radio Script, c. 1930, General Mills Archives.
156 “spoiled the day for both of them!”: General Mills, New Party Cakes for All Occasions (Minneapolis: Gold Medal Foods, 1931), pp. 3—-4.
156 “Cake Clinics”: Betty Crocker Radio Script, September 4, 1935, General Mills Archives.
157 “ideal dessert for St. Valentine’s Day”: Ibid., pp. 1—24.
158 “guesswork is taken out of it!”: Betty Crocker Radio Script, October 13, 1944, General Mills Archives.
158 Promotions for Double-Quick: General Mills press release, September 22, 1947.
158 carefree baking days once more: Gold Medal Flour magazine advertisement, 1946, General Mills Archives.
161 own mini baking revolution: Mary Hart, “Mystery Cake, Secret ‘Ingredient X’ Revealed for Baking Mammoth ‘Chiffon,’” Minneapolis Star and Tribune, 1948; General Mills, “New Chiffon Cake Makes News,” 1948, General Mills Archives.
163 “dry as some are prone to be”: General Mills’ internal publication, “Read Your Future in a Cake,” Horizons, March 1948; “New Chiffon Cake Makes News.”
163 “Dear Betty Crocker”: Letter sent to Betty Crocker, February 25, 1948, General Mills Archives.
164 By 1952, the average U.S. grocery: See Bundy, The Century in Food, p. 113.
166 cake mixes before World War II: General Mills internal document, “The History of Betty Crocker’s Cake Mixes,” May 31, 1955; General Mills internal document, “Some Notes on Flour Mix History,” June 8, 1954; General Mills internal document, “History of Cake Mixes,” September 1, 1972.
166 more popular: Candy Sagon, “In Praise of the Perfect Pan,” The Washington Post, November 13, 2002.
167 men preferred blue: Levenstein, Paradox of Plenty, p. 115.
167 introduce a chocolate cake mix: “A Range of Endeavors: General Mills and Its Various Ancestors Have Tried Their Hands at a Lot of Things Over the Years, Developing Some Interesting ‘Firsts’ in the Process,” Minneapolis Star Tribune, June 18, 2003.
168 captured a 48 percent share: Bundy, p. 115.
168 Chocolate Malt (1955): General Mills, Betty Crocker’s Ultimate Cake Mix Cookbook, p. 7.
168 cake mix … cheapened that love: Marling, pp. 212—13, 224—31.
170 novel invention at the White House: Ibid., p. 228.
170 Betty Crocker, once again, reigned supreme: Betty Crocker cake mix magazine advertisement, 1952, General Mills Archives.
170 use of mixes increased 343 percent: General Mills internal publication, “Batter up!,” Horizons, February 1952, pp. 16—17.
171 rifle through the kitchen trash: Oral history interview with Ruby Peterson; oral history interview with Ruth Springer, conducted by Susan Marks, January 1999.
171 “Let’s have a pink party”: Betty Crocker cake mix magazine advertisement, n.d., General Mills Archives.
173 “Honey Spice Cake Mix”: Ibid.
173 “Kenner’s Easy-Bake® Oven”: See David Hoffman, The Easy Bake® Oven Gourmet (Philadelphia: Running Press Book Publishers, 2003), p. 26.
175 “60 percent of households”: Sylvia Carter, “Mix it Up: The Devil’s Food Made Us Do It,” Newsday, September 23, 1998.
175 “cake from scratch again”: Christine Arpe Gang, “General Mills Whoops It Up for Betty Crocker’s 50th Anniversary,” The Commercial Appeal (Memphis, TN), September 16, 1998.
Chapter Six: Kitchens of the World
181 At least 2 million tourists: General Mills Public Relation’s material, “The Story of Betty Crocker,” n.d., n.p.
181 impossible to meet Betty Crocker: Peterson oral history.
183 model kitchen boasted gas and electric ranges: Washburn Crosby Company internal newsletter, The Eventually News, September 1924, p. 12.
183 “the new art of living electrically”: General Electric publication, “The New Art of Buying, Preserving and Preparing Foods,” 1934.
183 Campbell’s Soup Home Economics Kitchen: Campbell’s publication, “Easy Ways to Good Meals: 99 Delicious Dishes Made with Campbell’s Soups,” c. 1941, p. 48.
183 H. J. Heinz Company: H. J. Heinz Co., “The Heinz Book of Salads,” c. 1930, p. 91.
184 “Celebrating Our Tenth Anniversary in a New Home”: Betty Crocker Radio Script, October 3, 1934, General Mills Archives.
187 “The Tasting Test”: Betty Crocker Radio Script, October 5, 1934, General Mills Archives.
187 Mary Hale Martin for Libby’s: Libby, McNeill & Libby, My Best Recipes, c. 1934.
191 But at Betty’s table, innovations in market research: Betty Crocker Radio Script, October 5, 1934, General Mills Archives.
191 Betty’s “famous tested recipes”: General Mills’ sales material, “General Mills’ Betty Crocker: Overwhelmingly voted by American Homemakers the most helpful home service personality,” c. 1947, General Mills Archives.
191 Did you like the recipe?: Ibid.
192 Triple-Testing: Ibid.
192 Betty Crocker Kitchens: General Mills internal document, “Betty Crocker Guide to the New Home Service Department at General Mills,” 1947, General Mills Archives; General Mills press release, “Happy Birthday, Betty Crocker: Betty Crocker and How She Grew, A Brief History of the Betty Crocker Food and Publications Center,” June 1991; General Mills’ Betty Crocker Kitchen Tour Brochure, “Welcome to the home of Betty Crocker,” n.d., n.p.
192—93 cubbyholes stored personal items: “Betty Crocker Guide to the New Home Service Department at General Mills,” 1947, General Mills Archives.
193 Betty’s extensive library of cookbooks: Ibid.
193 “hum of activity”: General Mills’ Betty Crocker Kitchen Tour Brochure, “Welcome to the home of Betty Crocker,” n.d., n.p.
193 a glimpse of Betty’s secrets: “Betty Crocker Guide to the New Home Service Department at General Mills,” 1947.
193 Kitchen of Tomorrow, two kitchens in one: Ibid.
195 The Kamera Kitchen: Ibid.
195 Polka Dot Kitchen: Ibid.
195 “surprising contrast to the up-to-the-minute kitchens”: Ibid.
196 26,519 visitors signed the guest book: General Mills internal document, “History of Betty Crocker,” n.d., n.p., General Mills Archives.
196 billion copies of Betty Crocker’s tested recipes: General Mills sales material, “How will Betty Crocker help appliance dealers and distributors?” c. 1948, General Mills Archives.
196 “Come into our kitchen and see how we test”: General Mills’ Betty Crocker Kitchen tour brochure, c. 1955; General Mills’ Betty Crocker Kitchen tour information packet, “News from the Betty Crocker Kitchens,” c. 1955.
196 about 10,000 a month: “History of Betty Crocker,” n.d., n.p.
198 America’s $73 billion food industry: Life, January 1959.
198 Trade and Cultural Fair in Moscow: General Mills internal publication, “Betty Crocker Goes to Moscow,” Horizons, 1959.
198 “Kitchen Debate”: The New York Times, July 25, 1959.
199 “Follow the Red Spoons”: General Mills Annual Report, “Betty Crocker’s New Kitchens of the World, May 31, 1965—May 29, 1966; “Happy Birthday, Betty Crocker: Betty Crocker and How She Grew, A Brief History of the Betty Crocker Food and Publications Center,” June 1991, General Mills’ Betty Crocker Kitchen Tour information packet, “Welcome to the Betty Crocker Kitchens,” 1966; General Mills internal document, “Kitchen’s Décor as described by Nathan Mandelbaum, Interior Decorator, Ladies’ Home Journal,” c. 1968, General Mills Archives.
199 Mediterranean Kitchen: “Welcome to the Betty Crocker Kitchens,” 1966.
199 “Kitchen of the Sun”: Ibid.
200 “touch of Oriental beauty”: Ibid.
200 The Betty Crocker Kitchens closed: General Mills press release, “Public Tours of Betty Crocker Kitchens will end January 15, 1985,” October 19, 1984.
202 “But Betty Crocker is mother”: Sylvia Paine, “Bye Bye Betty,” Mpls-St Paul, January 1
985.
202 “Reports from the few people I know”: Ibid.
202 “It smelled heavenly—chocolate, baked goods”: “She’s Part of the New Recipe for A Diverse Betty Crocker,” The Orange County Register, February 20, 1998.
203 completely new kitchen facility: Rick Nelson, “Betty Crocker finally gets a new home,” Minneapolis Star Tribune, October 23, 2003.
203 test 50,000 recipes a year: Ibid.
205 America’s largest corporate cookbook library: Ibid.
205 blue panel to represent Pillsbury: Ibid.
Chapter Seven: Strangely Familiar
211 requests for her photograph: General Mills internal radio document—form letter responses: “I am sorry that I must refuse, but the truth is that I simply never have my picture taken. I don’t know whether it is because I just naturally don’t like to sit and pose or whether it is the disappointment I feel sure would follow, but the fact remains that I haven’t had my picture taken for years. I’m sorry,” n.d., n.p., General Mills Archives.
212 McMein and the famous dancer Irene Castle: Irene Castle and Neysa McMain, “Ought Mothers Give up Careers for Babies?: Two of the Nation’s Most Prominent Mothers Disagree,” McCall’s, February 1926, pp. 17, 111.
215 “Neysa McMein, famous magazine cover artist”: General Mills recipe booklet, “Betty Crocker’s 15th Prize Recipes: favorite of each year—1921 to 1936.”
218 “perfect composite of the twentieth-century American woman”: Gray, Business Without Boundary, p. 174.
218 “You look exactly like I thought you would!”: “History of Betty Crocker,” n.p., n.d.
218 “an ageless 32”: Jean Libman Block, “The Secret Life of Betty Crocker,” Women’s Home Journal, December 1954.
219 600 percent that year—to a total of 2 million sets: http://www.tvhistory.com.
219 the guy who fought for Betty Crocker: “Retired General Mills Executive, Ad Pioneer James Fish Dies at 82,” Minneapolis Star Tribune, July 7, 1998.
219 Hawley, for example, was “stunningly blonde”: Marling, As Seen on TV, p. 211.
219 “a dream in her eyes all women will be quick to recognize”: General Mills internal document, “Betty Crocker on Television,” n.p., n.d., General Mills Archives.
219 Hawley told the press: “TV’s Original Betty Crocker, Adelaide Hawley Cumming, Dead at 93,” Associated Press, December 24, 1998.
219 Time for Betty Crocker: Ibid.; General Mills internal document, “Betty Crocker on Television.”
221 “I don’t know how to bake a cake, Gracie, but here is Betty Crocker to show us how”: “TV’s Original Betty Crocker, Adelaide Hawley Cumming, Dead at 93.”
221 in 1950, 8 million American homes had sets; in 1958, the figure was 41 million: http://www.tvhistory.com.
221 “broadcasting pioneer and probably the most visible Betty”: “First TV Betty Crocker Dies at 93,” The Colombian, December 25, 1998.
223 the red spoon: General Mills Public Relations material, “The Story of Betty Crocker,” n.p., n.d.
223 “the red spoon is the more attractive”: “Calling Betty Crocker,” Forbes, August 1988.
223 red spoon graces more than 200 products: “Tale of Two Kitchens,” Atlanta Journal and Constitution, June 24, 1999.
223 Norman Rockwell, painted their interpretations of America’s First Lady of Food: General Mills, “Betty Crocker … 19211954”; General Mills internal document, “Betty Crocker portrait project,” 1954, General Mills Archives.
225 friend Muriel Wadsworth: PRIMETIME/CapeCod Times, “Model for an Icon,” January 2001, p. 12.
225 “have never really personified Betty Crocker”: General Mills, “Interview with Mercedese (sic) Bates,” n.d., p. 1, General Mills Archives.
225 McCall’s illustrator, Joe Bowler: Ibid.
229 “Elizabeth rather than Betty”: Lee Egerstrom, “Corporate Betty Crocker Improves with Age,” St. Paul Pioneer Press, October 28, 1980, p. 144.
229 Betty Crocker alive, vibrant, and attuned: General Mills Archives, General Mills internal memo to J. McFarland, October 10, 1968; letter to Joe Bowler from Joe Weaver, February 24, 1969, General Mills Archives.
229 “dead ringer for Mary Tyler Moore”: Colin Covert, “Betty Crocker, at 65, looks like a million bucks,” Minneapolis Star Tribune, May 23, 1986, pp. 1A, 9A.
232 In July 1972, the Minneapolis—St. Paul chapter of the National Organization of Women (NOW): Mary Hart, “Betty Crocker: A symbol of sexism, or of service?,” Minneapolis Star Tribune, August 1, 1972; “NOW Files Bias Charge Against General Mills,” July 26, 1972.
233 “Betty Crocker is just another advertising gimmick”: Barbara Flanagan, “Cheers for Betty Crocker,” Minneapolis Star Tribune, August 31, 1972.
233 Betty’s 1972 portrait update was back on schedule: Series of General Mills 1972 internal memos between James Fish, Joe Weaver, Robert J. Blake, and D. W. Latterall, regarding the use of Betty Crocker’s portrait, General Mills Archives.
235 New York artist Harriet Pertchik: Michelle Slatan, “Look It’s Betty Crocker! She’s New and Improved,” Newsday, May 23, 1986, p. 1.
238 “a professional woman, approachable, friendly, competent and as comfortable in the boardroom as she is in the dining room”: General Mills, “The Story of Betty Crocker,” n.p., n.d.
238 Betty Crocker, at 65, Looks Like a Million Bucks”: Colin Covert, 1986.
238 Betty Crocker had turned sixty-five yet never looked younger: Ibid.
238 National Public Radio newscaster Linda Wertheimer: “Betty Crocker Moving Front and Center Again,” All Things Considered, September 11, 1995.
238 “The First Lady of Desserts”: Betty Crocker dessert advertisement in Sunday paper circular, 1988.
239 The Spirit of Betty Crocker: General Mills Press Release, “Celebrating the Spirit of Betty Crocker on her 75th Anniversary,” September 11, 1995.
239 The Betty Crocker 75th Anniversary Diamond Sweepstakes: “Iowan Wins .75 Carat Diamond Pendant in Betty Crocker 75th Anniversary Sweepstakes,” Business Wire, July 3, 1996.
239 essay contest: “Celebrating the Spirit of Betty Crocker on her 75th Anniversary,” September 11, 1995.
240 “Every age, occupation and walk of life is invited”: Ibid.
240 210 television and 559 radio stations and 1,500: General Mills Press Release, “General Mills Announces 75 Winners of Betty Crocker Search,” January 31, 1996.
240 “There’s a little bit of Betty Crocker in everyone”: “Celebrating the Spirit of Betty Crocker on her 75th Anniversary,” September 11, 1995.
240 “will be less white bread and more whole-wheat”: “ ‘Facing’ Reality: New Image for Betty Crocker to Reflect Ethnic Diversity,” The Wall Street Journal, September 12, 1995.
240 “we weren’t allowed to see photos of the women”: “General Mills Announces 75 Winners of Betty Crocker Search,” January 31, 1996.
240 “For me the phrase ‘Spirit of Betty Crocker’ conjures images”: General Mills Public Relations material, “The Story of Betty Crocker,” n.p., n.d.
241 “I’m happy to be a part of this history”: Harry Levins, “Blending in Affton Woman’s Face Becomes Part of Latest Betty Crocker,” St. Louis Post Dispatch, February 1, 1996.
241 “I’m proud to be a part of her today”: “General Mills Unveils the Betty Crocker 75th Anniversary Portrait,” Business Wire, March 19, 1996.
241 Each of the seventy-five would receive a 1.3 percent representation: Harry Levins, “Yes, I’m There,” St. Louis Post-Dispatch, March 20, 1996.
241—43 “Painting the portrait of Betty Crocker was a daunting task”: “General Mills Unveils the Betty Crocker 75th Anniversary Portrait,” Business Wire, March 19, 1996.
243 350 million media impressions in just one year: General Mills Public Relations recap video, 1996.
243 voiced a few mild quibbles: “So long, Betty,” Christian Science Monitor, September 21, 1995.
244 Betty Crocker and her African-American co
unterpart, Aunt Jemima: Bill Maxwell, “Betty Reflects Ethnic Health,” St. Petersburg Times, March 28, 1996.
244 Bob Crocker: Kathleen Parker, “New ‘Betty’ Forgot Male Gender,” Franklin (PA) News-Herald, March 27, 1996; Suzanne Fields, “‘A New’ Betty Crocker,” Birmingham News, September 1995; Kathleen Parker, “What Next: A She-Male Crocker?,”Reading (PA) Times, April 8, 1996.
Acknowledgments
I wish to thank General Mills’ archivist, Katie Dishman, for granting me access to the corporate archives, embracing my research, helping to separate fact from fiction, and for being a good friend. The staff at General Mills are wonderfully supportive and helpful, in particular Tom Forsythe. Thank you for the opportunity to explore Betty Crocker on her home turf. And a special thank you to Mary Bartz—once a Betty Crocker, always a Betty Crocker.
Finding Betty Crocker proved to be an incredible journey and I have David Wiggins to thank for believing in me and Denise Roy to thank for believing in this book. I am eternally grateful. I also wish to extend my gratitude to the talented team at Simon & Schuster for giving this book life, and to Dawn Frederick and Laurie Harper of the Sebastian Agency for cheering me on.
I received extraordinary help and guidance from Professors Elaine Tyler May, Sara Evans, Karal Ann Marling, and Peter Lock. I also gained wonderful insights from another Betty authority, Laura Shapiro.
Thanks to the following for aiding me in my research: the Minnesota Historical Society; John Rockwell of the Norman Rockwell Family Agency; Mary Anna Dusablon; Carrie Smith; Lynne Olver, of Food Timeline; the Minneapolis Library Special Collections; the Hennepin History Museum; the Child family; and the Gale family, especially Jerry Gale.
Thank you to JoEllen Lundblad and Connie Hessburg from the University of Minnesota’s Master of Liberal Studies Program, for your ongoing support. I am also grateful to Dave Stevens of the Mill City Museum.
I am deeply indebted to several former Betty Crocker staffers who were kind enough to share their “Crockette” stories: Thank you to Pat Anfinson, Mable Martin, Dee Young, Marian Ralston, Sally Swindler, Jeannette Ludcke, Bernie Peterson, Susan Peters, Emma Louise McClean, Karen Broughton, Lillian Anderson, Diane Deneke, Jane Hand, Marjie Fields, Ellen Sreenan, and the wonderful Marge Gibson. And a very special thank you to a true one-of-a-kind, Ruby Peterson.
