by Mary Tomer
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WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18, 2008
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The View
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FOR HER GUEST CO-HOST APPEARANCE ON THE VIEW, the award-winning daytime talk show on ABC, Michelle Obama wore a black and white, high-waisted print dress designed by Donna Ricco. Sleeveless and form-fitting, the cotton dress featured a low scoop neck and a double band of black trim—one band encircling the empire waistline and the other at the natural waist. To accessorize the graphic leaf print, Mrs. Obama pinned a large black and silver peony-like brooch high on one shoulder. During the live broadcast, she confided that while she sometimes does wear “high-end clothes,” she had purchased this dress at White House Black Market, a national chain store. “You put a little pin on it, and you’ve got something going on,” she said.
“She was still on the air when our phones—both in our corporate headquarters and in our stores across the country—started ringing non-stop,” said Jessica Wells, director of public relations for White House Black Market, in an interview with Chicago magazine. The dress, which retailed for $148.00, sold out across the country within 48 hours. It was purchased by women of all sizes and all ages, and orders for the next shipment—arriving in three months—quickly mounted. White House Black Market featured the dress on its Web site, under the headline, “Road to the White House Style.” Appearing on the Today show two days later to discuss the popularity of the dress, Ricco assured shoppers that “we’re making more dresses as fast as we can.”
Mrs. Obama’s choice of this dress was her public debut of a high-low chic ensemble, and it fueled a growing national interest in her style. While she discussed her sense of patriotism, her working class upbringing, and her dislike of panty hose on The View, her legacy from this appearance was her emerging status as a fashion icon.
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Q&A DONNA RICCO, FASHION DESIGNER
Donna Ricco is known for her affordable range of chic, zip-and-go dresses. In the early summer of 2008, Michelle Obama wore a black and white print Donna Ricco dress for an appearance on The View. She announced that she had bought the dress from the store that sells “black and white clothes”—White House Black Market—instantaneously creating a fashion frenzy.
Q: How did you get started as a designer?
A: I came to New York right after I graduated with my bachelor of arts in fashion design. I had met my future husband in Milwaukee a year before that. We had decided to join forces and come to New York. Neither of us had a job, and we just said, “Let’s see what we can get into.”
Q: Where was your first order?
A: Henri Bendel. It was eight pieces, and it was very exciting. It was back in the day when young designers could go and show their ideas to the buyers directly. They had an open call.
Q: What do you like about dresses in particular?
A: As a designer, I always look at a dress as a complete statement. I think that’s part of the artist in me. You buy it, you put it on, and you’re ready to go. Yes, you can add a belt or put on accessories, but still, you’re covered head to toe. It’s really pure, and I like that idea.
Q: Did you know Michelle Obama owned one of your dresses?
A: I had no idea; it was a complete surprise. I was working, and we got a call from White House Black Market. When she was on The View, she said she bought it at the store that sells “black and white clothes.” They started getting calls from customers and the media, things happened so quickly. My husband Tom said, “Hey, I just got this call. Michelle Obama’s wearing your dress on The View.” When he said that, my heart, it just jumped.
Q: Why do you think there was so much excitement around The View dress?
A: It really speaks to the power of the dress—a good dress. That was what was so pure and so wonderful about the whole experience. I put so much effort into every dress that I design, and it’s something that I’ve been doing for so many years, since I started.
For so many people to react in such a positive way—it was the right cut, the right fit, the right print, and she bought it off the rack. Everything was right about it.
Q: The fit really was very flattering.
A: It has those black bands in the midriff area. A lot of my dresses have that fitted waist detail. Most women have a good shape there and like to show off that part of their body. And many American women are fuller in the hips. That dress has a slight A-line cut, and the fact that it had a higher waist—it just fit her figure perfectly.
Q: What impact might Michelle Obama have on the way American women look at fashion?
A: I think women will reach out a little more to something more current in fashion. They’ll think about wearing something other than a suit for daytime. It was a daytime event that Michelle Obama was attending. Because she wore it with such confidence, I think she’s a good role model for so many women in America. I think that’s good inspiration for all of us. The fact that she bought it off the rack from a store that anyone could walk into—I think that was really positive.
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Black and white print dress by Donna Ricco, worn by Michelle Obama on The View.
FRIDAY, JUNE 20, 2008
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Washington, D. C.
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FOR HER APPEARANCE at the annual luncheon hosted by the National Partnership for Women & Families, Michelle Obama chose a suit by Narciso Rodriguez, a designer known for modern, streamlined designs executed in the most luxurious of fabrics. The short boxy jacket featured a moderate scoop neckline and three-quarter sleeves, while the coordinating dress underneath was slim and straight.
The eye-catching material showcased horizontal bands of gray and white, with the gray bands varying in size and gradations of color. Serving as a counterpoint to the strong geometric look of the suit was a lush feather and crystal pin by Carolyn Rosenberg. The pin, with its gathered plumage of purple feathers held in place by a curving black jet-encrusted leaf, added an airy, feminine touch. Both the suit and the pin were acquired through the boutique Ikram.
The son of Cuban immigrants, designer Narciso Rodriguez grew up in New Jersey and pursued work in the fashion industry both in the U.S. and Europe. He worked for established labels such as Anne Klein and Calvin Klein, but he achieved instant stardom in 1996 by designing a sleek and sophisticated dress for Carolyn Bessette’s wedding to John F. Kennedy Jr.
Carolyn Rosenberg, a Chicago-based jewelry designer, was commissioned by boutique owner Ikram Goldman to make this pin specifically for Michelle Obama. (Mrs. Obama later wore this pin during her October 8, 2008, interview on The Larry King Live Show on CNN.)
Ms. Rosenberg inherited a collection of vintage items from an aunt who had been a milliner, which would become the basis for her first collection of jewelry. “I was taken with the idea of repurposing beautiful items, and I had these wonderful feathers from my aunt. They had been dyed with vegetable dye in the 1920s and ’30s, and the dying was beautiful. I also had all of these little jet pieces that had been soldered onto wires—these, too, were part of my aunt’s collection. Originally, they were for decorations on hats or for pins. So my approach was, ‘How can I get these things that I love to work together?’”
In her speech at the luncheon, Michelle Obama addressed some of the unique challenges facing America’s working families, including an expansion of family leave, health care reform and equality of wages. “I’ve always been and will probably always be in some way, shape, or form, a working mom,” she said. This was one of Mrs. Obama’s first public appearance wearing Rodriguez, but his designs would become one of her wardrobe staples.
Purple feather brooch, made of dyed, vintage feathers and jet pieces, by Carolyn Rosenberg of Chicago.
FRIDAY, JULY 4, 2008
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Butte, MO
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THE OBAMAS CELEBRATED INDEPENDENCE DAY with the citizens of Butte, Montana. Arriving in town to watch the annual holiday parade, Mrs. Obama wore a blue and white windowpane sundress from Gap. At first, Mrs. Obama wore a white cardi
gan over the cotton sundress, but she soon removed the sweater and tied it around her shoulders. She also added an impomptu accessory—a beaded Native American rosette necklace, handed to her by someone in the crowd.
On the most American of holidays, Mrs. Obama made a pitch perfect pick by wearing an inexpensive off-the-rack dress from all-American brand Gap. “General joy,” is how Gap’s creative director, Patrick Robinson, descibed his reaction, adding “All Gap employees felt that.” Commenting on the choice of dress for the occasion, he continued, “Gap has a long heritage in America; it is the iconic American brand. So it seemed appropriate that she wore it.”
Started 40 years ago in San Francisco, Gap has concentrated on producing all-American basics like jeans, Tshirts and cardigan sweaters. The embodiment of fashion democracy, Gap has fashioned its brand on making affordable, classically casual sportswear. Before joining Gap in 2007, Mr. Robinson had worked at Giorgio Armani, Anne Klein, Perry Ellis, and Paco Rabanne. Now leading the affordable retailer, he remarked, “Michelle Obama seems to understand fashion, and she wears clothes for the look and the design, rather than just going with high-price labels. She’s willing to embrace fashion wherever she finds it.”
SATURDAY, AUGUST 23, 2008
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Springfield, IL
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THE ANNOUNCEMENT OF SENATOR OBAMA’S RUNNING MATE—Joseph Biden, the senior senator from Delaware—came at 3 AM via a posting on the campaign’s Web site and text messages to supporters.
So by the time the Obamas stepped off their plane for an afternoon rendezvous and a pubic rally in Springfield, Illinois, with the Bidens, the excitement in the state capital town had been building. A crowd of 35,000 people jammed the streets surrounding the historic Old State Capitol to welcome the presumptive presidential and vice presidential candidates and their families. According to the Springfield Journal-Register, many in the crowd had driven hours or caught an Amtrak train from other cities in order to witness the event. The rally was a kickoff to the Democratic National Convention that was five days away.
Mrs. Obama was dressed for the sultry summer weather in a colorful shirtwaist dress by Moschino. In tones of deep purple, moss green, and blue gray, the floral print—which resembled impressionistic irises—was a cool counterpoint to the temperature.
Rossella Jardini of Moschino, describes the fabric: “In this beautiful print the flower can be seen although it is not clearly defined. The colors are not superimposed but integrated, almost mixed, without a determinate base color. This print is born of the simple fantasy and spontaneous coming together of joyous colors.”
The silhouette of the dress, with its short sleeves, button front, and slightly rounded shoulders, recalls vintage fashion of the 1940s. As an unexpected twist on the classic style, the placket curves asymmetrically with one side of the shirt front gathering to tie with an attached sash at the side of the waist. Tiered folds accent the loose, flowing skirt.
Watercolor blue, floral shirtdress from Moschino’s Spring 2008 collection.
CHAPTER III DEMOCRATIC NATIONAL CONVENTION
Making an Entrance
At the time of the 2008 Democratic National Convention, many Americans were still just getting to know Michelle Obama. It was during the convention that she would step onto the national stage, giving Americans an opportunity to connect with her on a more personal level. Quickly they would realize her warmth, commitment to her husband’s campaign, and, of course, her captivating, iconic style.
The convention was a weeklong affair held in Denver, Colorado, during August 2008, consisting of both day and evening activities. While Michelle Obama would make a prime-time speech and host a large service effort, her presence was undeniably felt through her style as well. The week proved to be one of Mrs. Obama’s most rigorously, well-styled efforts, in great part thanks to the discerning eye of Ikram Goldman, who served as a behind-the-scenes fashion advisor.
With each passing night, Mrs. Obama’s fashion choices seemed to grow more chic: the unexpected choice of designers, the clever use of accessories, the confidence and ease with which she wore each ensemble. There was an unparalleled thoughtfulness and cohesive attention to detail with each look that made for a dramatic, lasting impact. It was during this week that many American women—this author included—found themselves captivated with Michelle Obama’s style.
“Michelle Obama was so integral to the landscape of American fashion from the first moment she hit the campaign spotlight with her husband,” said Joe Zee, creative director of Elle magazine. “Here was this incredibly chic, well-respected, smart and not to mention—beautiful—woman that represented all the integrity and foundations of every woman in this country, and all eyes were on her.”
MONDAY, AUGUST 25, 2008
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First Night of the Convention
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AS AN INSTRUMENTAL VERSION of Stevie Wonder’s “Isn’t She Lovely” filled the air and thousands of delegates joyfully waved “Michelle” signs, Michelle Obama was set to take the stage of the 2008 Democratic National Convention at the Pepsi Center in Denver.
A biographical video “Michelle Obama: South Side Girl,” narrated by Michelle’s mother, Marian Robinson, had played just minutes before, tracing Michelle’s childhood years on Chicago’s South Side, to meeting Barack Obama at the Chicago law firm Sidley Austin, to her later work at Public Allies and the University of Chicago.
Michelle’s brother, Craig Robinson, gave his younger sister a warm, energetic introduction before the evening’s headline speaker finally walked on stage.
For her prime-time appearance, Mrs. Obama chose a teal, three-quarter sleeve, sheath dress created by Chicago designer Maria Pinto. With its fitted, fifties-inspired shape in double-faced wool, the dress conveyed an easy, understated elegance. At the center of its draped neckline, Mrs. Obama pinned an oversize turquoise starburst brooch with a silver rose center designed by Erickson Beamon. The brooch added personalized punctuation to the outfit, a winning combination that would become a trademark of Mrs. Obama’s style. Simple black patent leather pumps completed her outfit.
For designer Maria Pinto, the choice of dress confirmed her status as one of Mrs. Obama’s signature designers, a coveted position on the path to the White House. That same month, the designer had opened her first boutique in Chicago’s West Loop district.
Poised and confident, Mrs. Obama addressed the crowd for 20 minutes, speaking fondly of her brother, father, and mother, of the joys of being a mother herself, of her husband and the kind of president she believed he would become. After sharing a story about the day she and Barack Obama drove home from the hospital with their newborn daughter Malia, Mrs. Obama spoke these words of inspiration:
“As I tuck that little girl and her little sister into bed at night, you see, I think about how one day, they’ll have families of their own and how one day, they—and your sons and daughters—will tell their own children about what we did together in this election. They’ll tell them how this time we listened to our hopes, instead of our fears… how this time, we decided to stop doubting and to start dreaming… how this time, in this great country, where a girl from the South Side of Chicago can go to college and law school, and the son of a single mother from Hawaii can go all the way to the White House… that we committed ourselves… to building the world as it should be.”
Erickson Beamon Victory Garden brooch in turquoise and oxidized silver plated metal.
Following the speech, Mrs. Obama was joined onstage by her two young, jubilant daughters: Malia, wearing an empire waist sundress in black and cobalt blue, and Sasha, wearing a short sleeve purple shift dress adorned with a white flower pin.
Barack Obama appeared on a large screen via satellite from Kansas City, Missouri, where he was spending the evening. “Hello from Kansas City,” he said. And in praise of his wife: “How about Michelle Obama!”
Teal V-neck sheath dress by Maria Pinto.
TUESDAY, AUGUST 26, 2008
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LGBT Caucus
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THE LUNCHEON FOR LGBT CAUCUS DELEGATES, hosted by Rep. Barney Frank of Massachusetts and Rep. Tammy Baldwin of Wisconsin, included a surprise visit: an unscheduled appearance and short speech by Michelle Obama. Delegates welcomed Mrs. Obama to the luncheon with roaring applause.
“We know our country’s journey toward equality is not finished yet,” Mrs. Obama said. “We know it right here in this room. It’s been five years since Lawrence v. Texas and 39 years since Stonewall, but still, we’ve got work to do before we achieve equality in the LGBT community. And although we know we have a lot of work to do, this week we are going to celebrate just how far we’ve come, and how deep our shared capacity is to break through any barriers that stand in our way to the progress of this nation.”
Following her speech, Mrs. Obama stepped down from the stage to greet delegates, projecting understated elegance in a medley of earth tones and her trademark metallic ballet flats. Mrs. Obama wore an accordion pleat dress in taupe linen by Rodarte, belted at the waist with a coordinating taupe sash. A trio of Japanese glass pearl necklaces in bronze, gold, and champagne from the Erickson Beamon Peace at Last collection complemented the look.
Rodarte was founded in 2005 by two sisters, Kate and Laura Mulleavy. Rodarte is also their mother’s maiden name, chosen for their label as a tribute to their mother and grandfather. Their rise in American fashion has been meteoric; in June 2008, just two months before Michelle Obama chose the dress from their Fall 2007 collection, Rodarte received the CFDA Swarovski Emerging Womenswear designer award. Recognition of young design talent would be an emerging theme in Michelle Obama’s wardrobe, an early example of which was notably seen here. Michelle Obama would later re-wear the same dress as first lady, for her meeting with Queen Rania of Jordan at the White House in April 2009.
That same afternoon, Mrs. Obama also spoke at the Emily’s List Convention gala, and at the Women’s Economic Roundtable event with Sentaor Joe Biden.
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