by Mary Tomer
The first lady continued with words of encouragement, “I was surrounded by extraordinary women in my life who taught me about quiet strength and dignity….You too can control your own destiny, please remember that. Whether you come from a council estate or a country estate, your success will be determined by your own confidence and fortitude.”
As Mrs. Obama prepared to leave, girls in the audience rushed to the edge of stage to meet her. Handshakes quickly became hugs, accompanied by shrieks of delight. Mrs. Obama, showing her warm and generous spirit, crouched down to embrace the girls.
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PROFILE: IKRAM GOLDMAN
Ikram: a fashion force that can be summed up with one word. It is the name of the definitive high-fashion Chicago boutique, and it is the first name of the woman who sartorially knows Michelle Obama best. Since opening her namesake boutique in 2002, Ikram Goldman has been fearlessly pursuing her fashion vision.
Goldman has the courage of her convictions, bringing in a unique mix of American, European, and Japanese designers—including Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Comme des Garcons, Narciso Rodriguez, Thakoon, Peter Soronen, Azzedine Alaïa and Rodarte. Her jewelry designers include Tom Binns and Loree Rodkin. Yes, the clothes and jewelry can be purchased at other places, too, but here they are brought together under one roof and edited by one discerning eye. The New York Times has called Goldman’s store, “impossibly chic.”
“Ikram has a great eye, one of the best,” said Joan Weinstein to Chicago magazine. “She has a rare capacity to do both big picture concepts and small details.” Weinstein would know. She was the powerhouse behind Ultimo, the fashion-forward Chicago boutique that brought great cutting edge design to the Midwest for 30 years. Goldman, who moved from Israel to Chicago when she was 14, worked at Ultimo—mainly in the women’s section but sometimes on the men’s floor—under Weinstein’s tutelage for a decade. Weinstein retired in 1999, and Ultimo changed hands and, to some degree, direction. A few years later, Goldman opened her own boutique around the corner and began securing exclusive Midwestern rights to well-known designers.
Michelle Obama started shopping at Ikram some time in 2006; she was wearing Sonia Rykiel suits, Noir chiffon blouses, and the now well-known Alaïa black belt by then. (Goldman respectfully declines all questions about her famous customer.) Over time, Mrs. Obama began to turn more and more to fashion choices from Goldman’s boutique. At the Democratic National Convention, Mrs. Obama wore designers from Ikram three nights out of four—and even the Pinto dress she wore for her opening night speech had been styled by Goldman. The trend continued during the fall campaign; on election night, Mrs. Obama wore a black and red Narciso Rodriguez dress and an Alaïa cardigan that set the country buzzing. The influence of Goldman on Mrs. Obama’s fashion choices became clear during the inauguration festivities, when Mrs. Obama wore a pantheon of designers from Ikram: Isabel Toledo, Jason Wu, Narciso Rodriguez and jewelry from Loree Rodkin and vintage collector Carole Tanenbaum.
Goldman continues to be a hands-on fashion resource to Mrs. Obama as she settles into her role as first lady. Anyone who has ever shopped at the Ikram boutique knows why. Goldman is no fashion dictator, imposing an identifiable template on every customer. Instead, she encourages her customers to play with fashion and to have fun.
Ikram the boutique expands the fashion possibilities for anyone who shops there. That is because Ikram the woman believes that the magic of fashion is all about the mix.
Michelle Obama wears a Junya Watanabe cardigan for Take Your Child to Work Day.
Asymmetric argyle cardigan in magenta by Junya Watanabe.
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FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009
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NATO Summit Strasbourg, France
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ON THEIR TOUR OF EUROPE, the Obamas next traveled to Strasbourg, France. There, President Obama joined a summit of world leaders from NATO countries, where the group would mark the 60th year of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization and plan for the future of the military alliance.
French President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife Carla Bruni-Sarkozy welcomed leaders and their spouses to Strasbourg at the Palais Rohan, a cultural hub and prized example of Baroque architecture. The introduction between First Lady Michelle Obama and Carla Bruni-Sarkozy had become one of the most highly anticipated events of the week, as it brought two of the world’s most stylish women, face to face, ensemble to ensemble.
For their first meeting, Mrs. Obama wore a custom floral silk jacquard coat by Thakoon with a coordinating, reverse print dress underneath. The hem and sleeves of the dress were trimmed in black mesh elastic. The dress and coat, in fact, were originally designed for consideration on Inauguration Day. While American designers were championed throughout the week, it was a shining moment for Thakoon Panichgul. In a country where fashion is deeply entrenched in the nation’s culture and held to fastidious standards, it was high-profile recognition of the young American designer’s talent.
Ms. Carla Bruni-Sarkozy wore a gray lamb-skin coat over a charcoal gray, cap sleeve dress, both by Dior. As it happened, both women’s coats featured a soft tie at the neck—a detail that, no doubt coincidental, made them appear stylistically in tune. By all accounts, the first ladies had a pleasant visit. “They had lunch together and a lively conversation,” Katie McCormick Lelyveld, Michelle Obama’s press secretary said. “They got along very well.”
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“Mrs. Obama’s decision to wear American fashion helps to promote the industry both nationally and internationally.
ANDREW BOLTON, CURATOR, THE COSTUME INSTITUTE, THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART
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FRIDAY, APRIL 3, 2009
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NATO Summit Dinner
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FOR THE NATO SUMMIT DINNER IN BADEN-BADEN, GERMANY, just over the French-German border, leaders from the 28-member NATO nations gathered for a concert and working dinner.
The dinner was hosted at Kurhaus Casino in Baden-Baden, once described by Marlene Dietrich as “the most beautiful casino in the world.” An after-dinner concert followed, with a performance by renowned German violinist Anne-Sophie Mutter, who played a selection of European and American music.
For the event, First Lady Michelle Obama wore a black knit dress with a ruffled skirt and tulle underlay. Mrs. Obama paired the dress with a knit bolero jacket. Both pieces were designed by famed French-Tunisian designer, Azzedine Alaïa. Mrs. Obama accessorized her ensemble with a black heels, diamond hoop earrings and a cuff bracelet.
Born in Tunisia, designer Azzedine Alaïa moved to France to study sculpture at Ecole des Beaux-Arts. Developing his craft as a designer, he would spend two years at Guy Laroche in Paris to learn tailoring. He later went on to establish his own business, known for his attention to the female form and fine craftsmanship. Many would describe him as a master and as “the last true couturier.”
“She wore it well,” Azzedine Alaïa told Woman’s Wear Daily. “I couldn’t hope for better. She has a very strong presence and has set a new style for first ladies. I’m sure women will follow her style—it’s simple and elegant.”
Though Mrs. Obama had worn pieces from European designers in the past, the choice of Alaïa represented one of her most high profile departures from American fashion. It seemed a thoughtful sartorial gesture, undoubtedly made to show respect for her host nation France (even if, technically, across the border for the evening) and its legendary designer.
SATURDAY, APRIL 4, 2009
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Palais Rohan and Notre Dame Cathedral
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DESPITE HEATED ANTI-WAR AND ANTI-CAPITALIST PROTESTS, First Lady Michelle Obama and the other NATO spouses managed to proceed with their tour of Strasbourg. A trip to a cancer research center was canceled due to the rioting, replaced by an impromptu stop for coffee at the Palais Rohan.
Mrs. Obama was the final guest to arrive at the Palais Rohan for the event, hosted by Ms. Carla Bruni-Sarkozy. In greeting one another, the women briefly
held hands and gave each other a double-cheek kiss, as is a cultural custom in France.
Following their coffee, the group visited Strasbourg’s Notre Dame Cathedral, an 11th century monument and prime example of Gothic architecture. Mrs. Obama and Ms. Bruni-Sarkozy engaged in conversation as they walked side by side through the historic city center.
In regard to wardrobe, Mrs. Obama had again turned to Azzedine Alaïa, this time in the form of a tailored jacket. The double-breasted cropped black jacket displayed signs of fine craftsmanship, particularly in the punched and woven leather seam details. The jacket, in fact, was an existing piece in Mrs. Obama’s wardrobe, worn publicly at least once before, during a campaign speech in January 2008.
Beneath the jacket, Mrs. Obama wore a floral cardigan by Etro, white blouse by Moschino, and black trousers by Gunex. Her silver-studded belt was by Sacai, a Japanese design house based in the Marais district of Paris. In a single ensemble, the first lady had managed to support five European-based designers. Brunello Cucinelli, founder of his namesake Italian company that produces Gunex, told Woman’s Wear Daily, “I love Michelle Obama because she is beautiful, energetic, and has a strong presence.”
As the stop in Strasbourg came to a close, it was by all accounts a success. As a gesture of appreciation to her host, Mrs. Obama presented Ms. Carla Bruni-Sarkozy with a Gibson guitar, a thoughtful acknowledgment of her musical talents.
SUNDAY, APRIL 5, 2009
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Prague, Czech Republic
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ON THE MORNING OF THE OBAMAS’ FINAL DAY TOGETHER IN EUROPE, President Obama would give a public speech at the main entrance of Prague Castle. More than 20,000 locals crowded into the surrounding area, greeting the Obamas with a warm welcome of cheers and applause. Two such supporters were Dave Watson and Kathleen Noonan, an American couple who has lived in Prague for the past four years. The pair was fortunate enough to have a brief conversation with First Lady Michelle Obama as she circled through the crowd.
The first lady was dressed in a white blouse with an oversize bow by Moschino, paired with a black cardigan, Michael Kors black pencil skirt, and her signature Azzedine Alaïa studded belt. The bow blouse, the focal point of the ensemble, originated from Moschino’s Spring 2009 collection.
In conversation with Mrs. Obama, Ms. Noonan commented, “Love the bow.” The first lady acknowledged, “It’s a big bow,” continuing with a smile, “If you’re going to do a bow, I think it should be a big bow.” While Mrs. Obama had shown different sides to her style throughout the week, her final sartorial gesture would project a fun and playful spirit.
Hosted by Czech First Lady Livia Klausová, Mrs. Obama spent the rest of her day exploring the cobblestone streets of Prague, taking in a range of the city’s cultural landmarks.
They spent several hours touring the city’s Jewish Quarter, including the Pinkas Synagogue. At the Old Jewish Cemetery, the site of 12,000 family gravestones near the Vltava River, Mrs. Obama honored local tradition by inscribing a prayer on paper and securing it with a small stone.
Mrs. Obama’s last stop was the Old New Synagogue. Completed in the 13th century, it is the oldest active synagogue in Europe and one of the first Gothic buildings in Prague. While Mrs. Obama had clearly made an impression on Prague, the feeling was quite mutual. “It was a wonderful visit, but much too short,” the first lady told the city’s Jewish leaders. “I’ll be back.”
Oversize bow blouse from Moschino’s Spring 2009 collection.
CHAPTER VIII
Expert Reflections
Obamas walking Bo on White House lawn.
For the White House Correspondents Dinner, Michelle Obama wears a Michael Kors magenta dress in double face stretch wool crepe, paired with a St. Erasmus necklace made of fresh water pearls, Swarovski crystal and Zari thread.
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Q&A: WENDY DONAHUE, CHICAGO TRIBUNE
Wendy Donahue is a fashion writer for the Chicago Tribune. She has seen the influence of Michelle Obama’s style up and down the Magnificent Mile, and offers firsthand perspective on the booming Chicago fashion scene.
Q: What influence have you seen Michelle Obama’s style have on Chicago women?
A: I see women taking chances they didn’t a year ago. Wearing a green shoe as a neutral, for example. Chicago style is more conservative than, say, New York, in terms of spending, but also in terms of how clothes are worn. I can admit readily that I’ve been influenced by Michelle’s example. I’m taking more risks than a year ago—not being so matchy-matchy. It’s making fashion really fun again.
Q: How would you describe Michelle Obama’s style?
A: Friendly, approachable, independent—almost to rebellion. Imperfect in a charming way. She operates on tastes and instincts, and doesn’t follow the crowd. She’s become known for blending high and low. She doesn’t show any more or less reverence to J.Crew than Jason Wu.
Some critics are frustrated by her fallibility. For people who admire her, though, her example has been really liberating. Women are realizing that Michelle can stumble with her fashion choice one evening and get up the next morning and triumph, and still be the same person she was in either instance.
Q: How would you describe Chicago style?
A: There’s an independence from the dictates of fashion. Women buy fashion as an investment. They don’t buy a bag to throw aside after one season. It’s not about wearing the brand or designer of the moment. Investments are made in more classic shapes and silhouettes. You wear something because you truly like it and it suits you.
Q: What role do boutiques like Ikram and designers like Maria Pinto have on the Chicago style scene?
A: Ikram appreciates artistry and the avant garde. Her design aesthetic makes us think. She has done wonders for raising Chicago’s fashion profile. She has shown the world—which was not her mission necessarily—that there is a market and customer in Chicago for the most innovative designers. Even before Michelle Obama, Ikram was getting credits in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. There’s a well-known stylist based in Chicago who thinks Ikram’s store is one of only a handful in the world that traffic in fashion that is truly advancing the industry. She’s been a pioneer in that way.
Even before Ikram there was Joan Weinstein and Ultimo. There have always been sources and a market in Chicago for the most sophisticated fashion, but Chicagoans tend to be discreet about it. Whether they like it or not, Ikram and Michelle Obama are elevating Chicago’s profile in the fashion world.
Maria Pinto has a name here and a strong following. She’s very familiar, very firmly rooted in the world that real women live in. She is accessible and relatable. Her aim is to make women feel great in their clothes. It’s not about making a fashion statement per se, but making a woman really shine in clothes that flatter her body.
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Q&A: BOOTH MOORE, LOS ANGELES TIMES
Booth Moore is the chief fashion critic for the Los Angeles Times. She offers unerring analysis and thought-provoking insight on Michelle Obama’s style and its wide-ranging influence.
Q: You were one who gave the Narciso Rodriguez dress on election night a positive review. What was your initial reaction?
A: I thought it was a very fashion-y choice. There wasn’t anything safe about it. I did just love the symbolism of the red sort of bursting out of the black. I thought it was dramatic and kind of exciting. It was definitely a declaration that she was going to be a first lady unlike any we’ve seen recently—right off the bat. She knew already that people were following her style and enjoying what she was wearing. I think she said, “Hey, I like fashion, I like to play with it, and this is who I am, and I’m not going to stop being who I am just because I have this new role.”
Q: Later you wrote that the camel and black Narciso Rodriguez ensemble worn for the “We Are One” concert during the inauguration was “strong, elegant and, above all, modern.” What gave it that effect?
A: To me it was just a totally new-looking suit. We were used
to seeing Mrs. Bush in a traditional three-button blazer and pants, the same with Mrs. Clinton. Here was a dress and coat combo, which is something that can look very sophisticated, but is not your typical women’s suit. I also liked the color combination, the black and the camel. I thought it was very graphic against the monument. It was very clean, graphic, sophisticated—a new take on the suit.
Q: What was your reaction to the daytime Isabel Toledo ensemble worn on Inauguration Day?
A: Again, she was sort of taking a risk. Isabel Toledo is a designer that a lot of people don’t know. It was a color, one that a lot of people wouldn’t wear. It made a statement that she was going to be her own woman and going to have fun with fashion. I thought it was elegant, befitting the occasion. And the color ended up looking fabulous on her.
Q: Any thoughts on the Jason Wu gown worn for the Inaugural Ball?
A: When I first looked at it, I thought “Wow, it’s kind of frothy, it looks a bit like a wedding gown.” But it did sort of hammer home the message that this was a return to Camelot or to a fairy tale like time in American history. It was very celebratory. And exemplary of the kind of workmanship that can be done here, that people may just think can be done in Europe.
Q: When has Michelle Obama gotten it most right from a style perspective? Do you have a favorite look?
A: I really like the Maria Pinto sheaths that she wears. It’s just an example of someone finding a silhouette, a piece that really works for them, and continuing to wear it, and then just throwing on really interesting accessories to make it look different. It’s great when people find a signature look and I think the sleeveless sheath dress is really her signature look. That’s a good style lesson for people—to find that one thing that works for you, and reinvent it day after day.
Q: How do you think Michelle Obama’s style might impact our social history, in the way that American women dress and look at fashion?
A: I think that, in the similar way that Carla Bruni-Sarkozy is giving France a stylish image again, the way that she’s doing things—whether its entertaining or the way she’s dressing—is boosting America’s style quotient. When you look through history and look back at Jackie Kennedy or Frances Cleveland, those were moments when we could feel like we were chic Americans. And she’s really making us feel like chic Americans again.
