When preparing it for the pudding plate roll with a short quick stroke pressing the pin rather harder than when putting the butter in. If the paste rises in blisters it will be light unless spoiled in baking. He cut the sheet in half, fold up each piece and roll out once more separately, in round sheets the size of your plate making it thinner in the middle than at the edges: if the edges are not thick enough put the trimmings together, roll them out, cut in slips the breadth of the rim of the plate joining them nicely and place round evenly then notch the rim handsomely; fill the dish with the pudding and bake in a moderate oven. The paste should be a light brown color. If the oven be too slow it will be soft and clammy if too quick it will not have time to rise as it ought. IN making the best puff paste try to avoid using more flour to sprinkle and roll with than the small portion you have laid aside. It is difficult to make puff paste in the summer unless in a cellar, a very cool room, or on a marble table, your butter should be kept cool and your water with ice in it. After the paste is mixed it should be set in a cool place or in cold water till you are ready for the last rolling.
“With all these precautions to prevent its being heavy, it will not rise as well, or be in any respect as good as in cold weather.” ~ Mrs. Goodfellow ~
(Source: Manuscript Recipe Book written by Henrietta “Hetty” Ann Bellah [b. 1809] for Martha Canby Morris, 1860, p. 59, Independence National Historic Park Library)
Cakes
CHEESE CAKE
(Mrs. Goodfellow)
Four eggs well beaten, stirred into two cups boiling milk; then put your pan containing the milk and the eggs on some coals or a stove, stir them until it curdles, then strain off the whey, and let the curd cool; grate six ounces of sponge cake, or any other light cake that is stale, and mix with the cold curd; cream half a pound of butter, and half a pound of sugar, add a wine-glass of brandy and wine mixed; spices and rose water then mix all the ingredients together; add the rind and juice of one lemon, just before putting into paste. Have ready a nice puff paste, put in the mixture and bake in a slow oven. One pint of cottage cheese may be used if at hand, instead of preparing the curd as above. Rub it very smooth before mixing it, or sift it through a small strainer.
(Source: American Kitchen Magazine 14 (October 1900–March 1901): 32)
INDIAN POUND CAKE
Eight eggs; the weight of 8 in sugar-the weight of 6 in Indian meal sifted, 1/2 lb of butter, one nutmeg grated or one teaspoonful of cinnamon, stir the butter and sugar to a cream, then put the meal and eggs alternately into the butter and sugar, grate in the nutmeg and stir all well; butter a tin pan put in the mixture and bake in a moderate oven.
(Source: Bellah Manuscript Recipe Book, 40, Independence National Historic Park Library)
MRS. GOODFELLOW'S QUEEN CAKE
One pound of butter and one pound of sugar beat to a cream, a wineglass of brandy and rose water, put with the sugar and butter, ten eggs beat to a froth, one pound of flour—beat the flour and eggs in by degrees, then add a tea-spoonful of cinnamon and nutmeg mixed, beat the cake well. (From Mrs. Claypoole)
(Source: Eliza Kane Recipe Book, New York circa 1847–1852, William L. Clements Library, University of Michigan)
QUEEN CAKE
(Mrs. Goodfellow's Cooking School, Philadelphia, Pa.)
2 1/2 pounds of flour, 1/2 pound of butter, 2 gills of yeast, 1 saltspoon of salt. Rub the butter, flour and salt together, then add the yeast with as much milk as will make it into a tolerably soft dough. Knead it well and replace in the pan to rise. This must be done in the evening. Next morning knead it lightly. Make it into small round cakes; place them on tins. Prick them with a fork and put them in a warm elevated place to rise. As soon as light bake in a quick oven. When done wash the tops lightly with a little water and cover with a towel to make them soft. In these biscuits always boil the milk, and when the weather is cold use it while tepid.
(Source: Colonial Receipt Book. Recipe from Mrs. Thomas Painter, Sunbury, Pa., 1811)
Other Desserts
FLOATING ISLAND
(From A Pupil Of Mrs. Goodfellow)
To the white of every egg, add a tablespoonful of currant jelly and the same of white sugar. Beat until perfectly stiff. Float it on milk. Cover with flecks of currant jelly. Eat with rich cream.
(Source: Colonial Receipt Book, 108. Recipe from Mrs. Thomas Painter, Sunbury, Pa., contributed by her daughter, Miss Mary E. Painter, Muncy, Pa.)
SWISS CREAM
(Mrs. Goodfellow's Cooking School, Philadelphia, Pa.)
Take 1 quart of sweet rich cream and add 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. Let it come to a boil. Take off the stove; beat the whites of 6 eggs very, very light. Set the cream which must be nearly cold on the fire, stir the eggs slowly in and keep stirring 1/2 minute. Take from the fire, turn into a mold and stand in a cool place.
(Source: Colonial Receipt Book, 108. Recipe from Mrs. Thomas Painter, Sunbury, Pa.)
Preparations for the Sick
BARLEY WATER
Put 1/4 lb barley into 2 qts water, let it boil, skim it clean, boil half away and strain it off; sweeten to your taste and add a little wine.
(Source: Recipe Book: Manuscript, 1841–1862; Ms. Codex 884. Rare Book & Manuscripts Library, University of Pennsylvania)
SAGO
Put a table spoonful of Sago into a pint of water, stir it and boil gently till it is as thick as you wish, about 1 1/2 hour, then add wine, sugar and nutmeg to your taste and the juice of a lemon.
(Source: Recipe Book: Manuscript, 1841–1862; Ms. Codex 884. Rare Book & Manuscripts Library, University of Pennsylvania)
TAPIOCA
Put 2 table spoonsful of tapioca into a qt of cold water let it boil gently till it becomes transparent; add a glass of wine and about double the quantity of milk if you choose it and sweeten it to your taste.
(Source: Recipe Book: Manuscript, 1841–1862; Ms. Codex 884. Rare Book & Manuscripts Library, University of Pennsylvania)
WATER GRUEL
Take a pint of water and a tablespoonful of oatmeal or Indian meal, stir it together and let it boil up to 10 minutes, let it not boil over; add wine and sugar to your taste.
(Source: Recipe Book: Manuscript, 1841–1862; Ms. Codex 884. Rare Book & Manuscripts Library, University of Pennsylvania)
Notes
PREFACE
1. Dunne and Mackie, “Philadelphia Story,” 72; Hines, Marshall, and Weaver, The Larder Invaded.
CHAPTER ONE: WHO WAS MRS. GOODFELLOW?
1. Dunne and Mackie, “Philadelphia Story,” 72.
2. Records of Gloria Dei (Old Swedes) Church, Philadelphia.
Correspondence with Peg Berich, History Committee, Gloria Dei (Old Swedes) Church, Philadelphia, May 2010.
3. Weaver Interview, January 21, 2009.
4. Stafford, Philadelphia Directory for 1801, 97.
5. Robinson, Philadelphia Directory for 1802; Robinson, Philadelphia Directory for 1803; Robinson, Philadelphia Directory for 1804.
6. Jackson, Literary Landmarks, 211–212.
7. Philadelphia, 1789–1880 Naturalization Records.
8. Telephone conversation with Abigail Coane Leibell, March 2009.
9. Accounts of the Treasurer of the United States of Payments and Receipts of Public Monies; War Department Accounts Report Books, 1797, 25.
10. Robinson, Philadelphia Directory for 1805.
11. Ancestry.com Message Board; http://boards.ancestry.com/surnames.coane/10/mb.ashx.
12. Records of Gloria Dei (Old Swedes) Church, Philadelphia. Correspondence with Peg Berich, History Committee, Gloria Dei (Old Swedes) Church, Philadelphia May 2010.
13. Dallett, files on Elizabeth Goodfellow.
14. Dallett, files on Elizabeth Goodfellow; Hardie, The Philadelphia Directory and Register.
15. Records of Gloria Dei (Old Swedes) Church, Philadelphia. Correspondence with Peg Berich, History Committee, Gloria Dei (Old Swedes) Church, Philadelphia May 2010.
16. Aurora General Advertiser, no.
4631, November 4, 1805, 3.
17. Robinson, Philadelphia Directory for 1809.
18. www.standrewsociety.org; An Historical Catalogue of the St. Andrew's Historical Society, 1907
19. Thomas, A Century of Universalism in Philadelphia and New York, 161.
20. Schlereth, “A Tale of Two Deists,” 7.
21. Ibid., 1.
22. United States Gazette, July 4, 1818.
23. Eckhardt, Pennsylvania Clocks and Clockmakers, 74–77.
24. Philadelphia Register of Wills for the Estate of William Goodfellow, A172–18.
25. Poulson's American Daily Advertiser, July 3, 1818, 983.
26. Keshatus, Historic Philadelphia, 7.
27. David, English Bread and Yeast Cookery, 10.
28. Weaver, A Quaker Woman's Cookbook, xxii.
29. Stevens, Pennsylvania, 77.
30. Weigley, Philadelphia, 218. Johnson, Pattern for Liberty, 26.
31. Staib, City Tavern Baking and Dessert Cookbook, 11.
32. Weigley, Philadelphia: A 300–Year History, 6–10, 221–222.
33. Ibid., 220.
34. Kirtley, Athens of America.
35. Weigley, Philadelphia: A 300–Year History, 220.
36. Kirtley, Athens of America.
37. Weigley, Philadelphia: A 300–Year History, 214–215.
38. Oberholtzer, Philadelphia, 434.
39. Dock Street Views—Campbell Collection, HSP. Newspaper clipping—Dock Street: Development and Associations of the Old Thoroughfare, by Jo Jackson, April 3, 1891.
40. Stafford, The Philadelphia Directory for 1801.
41. Cotter, Roberts, and Parrington, The Buried Past, 36.
42. Warner, The Private City, 6.
43. Poulson's Daily Advertiser, November 3, 1803, 4.
44. Gum arabic is a natural gum made of hardened sap taken from two species of the acacia tree. Mrs. Goodfellow would have used it in a powdered form to make wine and cake icing.
45. Poulson's American Daily Advertiser, December 2, 1818, 1; December 21, 1813, 2.
46. Poulson's American Daily Advertiser, August 12, 1817, 1.
47. Poulson's American Daily Advertiser, March 9, 1819, 3.
48. Betsy Ross Homepage http://www.ushistory.org/betsy/.
49. Wulf, Not All Wives, 98–99.
50. Ancestry.com. 1810 United States Federal Census. Philadelphia Dock Ward, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; Roll 55, p. 516; Family History Number: 0193681; Image: 00211.
51. Cowan, More Work for Mother, 28–29.
52. Ancestry.com. 1820 United States Federal Census. Philadelphia Dock Ward, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, Page 26; NARA Roll: M33_108; Image: 37.
53. Cotter, Roberts, and Parrington, The Buried Past, 235.
54. Robinson, Philadelphia Directory, 1828, 1829, 1835, 1845.
55. Robinson, Philadelphia Directory, 1830.
56. E. Goodfellow & Son receipt, September 1837—from the archives of the Atwater Kent Museum of Philadelphia, file 53.32.41.
57. Ancestry.com. 1850 United States Federal Census.
58. McElroy, McElroy's Philadelphia City Directory.
59. Encyclopedia of Pennsylvania Biography, 510.
60. From Dallett, files on Elizabeth Goodfellow, Daily Chronicle, Philadelphia, June 16, 1831.
61. Ancestry.com. 1850 United States Federal Census.
62. Death Notices, Philadelphia Inquirer, May 29, 1883, 4.
63. Davis, The Bouviers, 20–22.
64. Ibid., 54.
65. Dallett files on Elizabeth Goodfellow, taken from Stephen Girard Papers, Reel 209, Bills and Receipts–Wedding.
66. Society Small Collections “C,” Daniel W. Coxe, “E. Goodfellow & Son's Receipt for Pastry and Cakes”; “Mrs. Goodfellow Receipt for Pastry,” Historical Society of Pennsylvania. Edward Shippen Burd, Papers 1799–1848, “Goodfellow & Coane's Receipt for pastry and cakes,” January 24, 1842, Historical Society of Pennsylvania.
67. Golovin, “William Wood Thackara,” 322.
68. E-mail correspondence with Pat O'Donnell, Archivist at the Friends Historical Library of Swarthmore College, January 18, 2010.
69. E-mail correspondence with Ann Upton, Quaker Bibliographer & Special Collections Librarian, Haverford College, January 19, 2010.
70. E-mail correspondence with Pat O'Donnell, Archivist at the Friends Historical Library of Swarthmore College, January 18, 2010.
71. Dallett, files on Elizabeth Goodfellow.
72. Stevens, Pennsylvania, 81.
73. Reed, The Philadelphia Cookbook of Town and Country, x.
74. Williams, Food in the United States, 119.
75. “The Middle Atlantic States.”
76. Weaver, A Quaker Woman's Cookbook, xli.
77. Weaver, Thirty-Five Receipts from “The Larder Invaded,” 45.
78. Giger, Colonial Receipt Book, 121, 131.
79. Nash, First City, 61.
80. Snodgrass, The Encyclopedia of Kitchen History, 291.
81. Hechtinger, The Seasonal Hearth, 115.
82. Bacon, Mothers of Feminism, 61.
83. Comfort, The Quakers, 27.
84. Kashatus, William Penn's Holy Experiment in Education, 6.
85. Ibid., 8–9.
86. Taylor, The Writer's Guide to Everyday Life in Colonial America, 236.
87. Bacon, Mothers of Feminism, 164–165.
88. Nash, First City, 61.
89. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
90. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
91. Snodgrass, Encyclopedia of Kitchen History, 495–496.
92. Jackson, Literary Landmarks, 211–212.
93. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
94. Leslie's mother's maiden name was Lydia Baker, the same maiden name as Mrs. Goodfellow's. Even though Baker is a rather common name, this could be where the connection comes in.
95. Weaver, “Goodfellow, Elizabeth,” 139–140.
96. Weaver Interview, January 21, 2009.
97. Healy and Bugat, The Art of the Cake.
98. Leslie, The Lady's Receipt-Book, 193–194.
99. Leslie, Directions for Cookery in Its Various Branches, 29.
100. Fussell, Masters of American Cookery, 379.
101. “Queries and Answers,” 447–448.
102. Weaver, Thirty-Five Receipts from “The Larder Invaded,” 32.
103. “Queries and Answers,” 447–448.
104. Simmons, American Cookery, xiii–xv.
105. Weaver, Thirty-Five Receipts from “The Larder Invaded,” 32.
106. Fry, “The Paris Hippodrome,” 6.
107. Arthur, Orange Blossoms, Fresh and Faded, 181.
CHAPTER TWO: INGREDIENTS
1. The Bank of Pennsylvania was built in 1798–1801 from Benjamin H. Latrobe's groundbreaking designs that began the Greek Revival movement in American architecture. The bank failed during the global financial panic of 1857, and was torn down ten years later, after having served as a federal prison during the Civil War. Teitelman, Birch's Views of Philadelphia, 27.
2. Keels, Forgotten Philadelphia, 49.
3. Jackson, America's Most Historic Highway, 2–3.
4. Garrett, Memories of Philadelphia in the Nineteenth Century, 5.
5. Thomas, Foods of Our Forefathers, 153–154; Montgomery, Old Ben Franklin's Philadelphia, 69–70.
6. Montgomery, Old Ben Franklin's Philadelphia, 67.
7. Thomas, Foods of Our Forefathers, 154.
8. Hooker, Food and Drink in America, 99.
9. Jackson, America's Most Historic Highway, 12.
10. Garrett, Memories of Philadelphia in the Nineteenth Century, 5–6.
11. Jackson, America's Most Historic Highway, 14; Thomas, Foods of Our Forefathers, 154–155.
12. Trollope, Domestic Manners of the Americans, 223.
13. Montgomery, Old Ben Franklin's Philadelphia, 67.
14. Cummings, An American and His Food, 25.
15. Hooker, Food and Drink in Am
erica, 99.
16. Cope, Philadelphia Merchant, 105.
17. Royall, Sketches of History, 207.
18. Flint, Letters from America, 34.
19. Janson, The Stranger in America, 187.
20. Weld, Travels Through the United States, 184.
21. Janson, The Stranger in America, 187.
22. Cummings, An American and His Food, 38–39.
23. Volo and Volo, The Antebellum Period, 166.
24. Patent, Baking in America, 405.
25. Hooker, Food and Drink in America, 102.
26. Leslie, The House Book, 244–245.
27. Smith, Oxford Companion to Food and Drink, 570.
28. Depew, 1795–1895: One Hundred Years of American Commerce, 625.
29. Woloson, Refined Tastes, 21.
30. Depew, 1795–1895: One Hundred Years of American Commerce, 625.
31. Smith, Oxford Companion to Food and Drink, 570.
32. Woloson, Refined Tastes, 23.
33. Smith, Oxford Companion to Food and Drink, 438.
34. Belden, The Festive Tradition, 166.
35. Weaver interview, January 21, 2009.
36. Richardson, Sweets, 194.
37. Chapman, The Candy-Making Industry in Philadelphia, 3.
38. Belden, The Festive Tradition, 74; Woloson, Refined Tastes, 155–156.
39. Staib, City Tavern Baking and Dessert Cookbook, 11.
40. Cadwalader Collection: Gen. John Cadwalader, Bills & Receipts, Dec. 8, 1744, Library Company of Philadelphia.
41. Woloson Refined Tastes, 33.
42. Hines, Marshall, and Weaver, The Larder Invaded, 25.
43. Depew, 1795–1895: One Hundred Years of American Commerce, 625.
44. A survey of food-related occupations within Philadelphia in 1790 taken from census reports and tax lists found the following breakdown among those utilizing sugar to make a living: 114 bakers, 26 biscuit bakers, 11 sugar refiners, 9 chocolate makers, 7 sugar bakers, 5 pastry cooks, 4 loaf bakers, cake bakers, and 1 confectioner. By 1816 there were 20 known confectioners in Philadelphia, and in 1820 the ratio in the city was one confectioner for every 6,854 people, a figure which rose to one per every 867 residents in 1860. And about 200 confectioners were operating in Philadelphia by 1867, including larger manufacturers, which had become possible by this time with the introduction of steam power. Schweitzer, “The Economy of Philadelphia and Its Hinterland,” 125; Chapman, “The Candy-Making Industry in Philadelphia,” 4; Woloson, Refined Tastes, 7; Freedley, Philadelphia and Its Manufactures, 231.
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