A Book of Mediterranean Food

Home > Nonfiction > A Book of Mediterranean Food > Page 17
A Book of Mediterranean Food Page 17

by Unknown


  in bourride, 64

  Aleppo chicken, 109

  almond and orange cake, 167

  ambelopoùlia, 150

  anchovies

  in anchoïade, 40

  in anchoïade Croze, 41

  anguilla in tiella al piselli, 62

  apricots

  apricotina, 162

  soufflé, 163

  arní souvlákia, 77

  arroz a la catalana, 97

  artichokes and broad beans, 133

  artichokes, Jerusalem, soup, 19

  aspic jelly, 141

  aubergines

  à l’arménienne, 130

  beignets, 129, 130

  dolmas, 130

  in fritters, 129, 130

  in marinade, 151

  in mousaká, 37

  in ratatouille, 131

  salad of, 151

  avgolémono sauce, 186

  soup, 17

  bananas, baked, 162

  basil, whole, dried, 64

  Basque soup, 17

  batter, frying, 50

  beans

  broad with artichokes, 133

  with bacon, 133

  brown, Egyptian (fool), 105

  haricot

  aïgroissade toulonnaise, 131

  cassoulet toulousain, 102

  fasoūlia, 137

  rissoles of beans (ta’amia), 137

  salad, 155

  soup, 19

  ta’amia, 137

  becfigues. See Figpeckers

  Beckford, William: ‘Alcobaca’, 109;

  ‘Portuguese Supper Party’, 93

  BEEF

  culotte de boeuf au four, 83

  en daube à la niçoise, 82

  filet de boeuf

  à l’amiral, 83

  flambé à l’avignonnaise, 83

  à l’italienne, 81

  langue de boeuf en paupiettes, 38

  à la mode à la provençale, 146

  pebronata de boeuf (Corsican ragoût), 83

  stiphádo (Greek ragoût), 81

  beetroots

  to bake, 26

  soup, iced, 26

  beignets

  aubergines, 129

  courgettes, 129

  pruneaux, 164

  sardines, 62

  Bennett, Arnold, ‘A Greek Restaurant’, 73

  blackberries in water melon, 161

  boar, saddle of, Norman Douglas’s recipe, 88

  bocconcini, 74

  boeuf. See Beef

  boudin purée de pois, 43

  bouillabaisse, 59

  of spinach, 41

  bourride, 64

  brandade de morue, 63

  brawn, Greek, 147

  brocciu (cheese), omelette au, 36

  Brodrick, Alan Houghton, ‘Farmhouse Dinner’, 116

  burek, 41

  butter, garlic, for snails, 46

  Byron, Robert, ‘Greek Feast’, 67

  cailles. See Quails

  cake, orange and almond, 167

  calamári, grilled, 68

  calf’s liver with pimentos, 38

  carrots

  au blanc, 129

  with liver, 102

  cassoulet toulousain, 102

  Catalan soup, 18

  cauliflower al stracinati, 133

  cavalfiore. See Cauliflower

  celeriac, stuffed, 133

  celeri-rave. See Celeriac

  cenci, 166

  cèpes

  à la bordelaise, 136

  dried

  in sauce for spaghetti, 185

  note on, 123

  à l’italienne, 136

  champignons. See Mushrooms

  chanfaīna of pig’s liver, 147

  chatchouka, 36

  cheese

  in burek, 41

  cream, with raisins, 165

  Greek, fried, 43

  mozzarella, in pizza, 39

  omelette au brocciu, 36

  in spanakopittá, 42

  in tiropittá, 42

  chick peas, 132

  with mutton, 105

  with tahina, 152

  with Turkish salad dressing, 187

  chicken

  Aleppo chicken, 109

  antiboise, 110

  avgolémono soup, 17

  broth with noodles, 102

  cold, Véronique, 142

  consommé, with tomato, iced, 25

  kotópittá, 42

  lemon, 143

  liver pâté, 144

  aux noix, 142

  in padella con peperoni, 110

  sherkasiya (Circassian chicken), 110

  stuffing for roast chicken, 111

  Circassian chicken, 110

  civet

  of inkfish, 68

  de lièvre, 122

  chocolate cream mousse, 167

  cod

  roe, smoked (taramá), 151

  salt, 63

  coffee mousse, 167

  cold food and salads, 139–56

  cold soups. See Soups, iced

  coquilles St Jacques. See Scallops

  côtes de veau Foyot, 75

  courgettes

  fritters, 129

  with tomatoes, 129

  crayfish

  in ragoût of shell fish, 54

  with sauce provençale, 53

  crème à l’orange, 168

  cucumber

  pickled, salad, 156

  soup hot, 19

  iced, jelly, 24

  culotte de boeuf au four, 83

  cuttlefish, 68

  dates, glacé, stuffed, 176

  dolmádes, 150

  Douglas, Norman: ‘The Good Cook’, 181;

  ‘The Ideal Cuisine’, 76;

  ‘Saddle of Boar’, 88

  duck

  cold stuffed, 143

  to roast, 111

  Durrell, Lawrence: ‘Corfu: Making the Preserves’, 175;

  on black olives, 149

  eel

  with green peas, 62

  with raïto, 63

  eggplant. See Aubergine

  EGGS

  chatchouka, 36

  egg and onion tart, 35

  etiquette of serving eggs, Gertrude Stein on, 34

  en matelote, 35

  omelettes. See Omelettes

  al plato a la barcino, 36

  ratatouille aux oeufs, 35

  with spinach en bouillabaisse, 42

  Egyptian brown beans, 104

  épinards. See Spinach

  esh es seraya, 163

  fasoūlia, 137

  fennel, 132

  with red mullet, 63

  fèves. See Beans, broad

  figpeckers

  en brochettes, 114

  and mushrooms, 114

  preserved (ambelopoùlia), 150

  figs

  baked, 165

  dried, pudding, 165

  fresh, with orange juice, 170

  fila pastry, 41, 42

  filet de boeuf

  à l’amiral, 83

  flambé à l’avignonnaise, 83

  filet de mouton en chevreuil, 80

  filet de porc

  aux pois nouveaux, 85

  en sanglier, 85

  FISH, SEA AND FRESHWATER

  anguilla (eel) in tiella al piselli, 62

  beignets de sardines, 62

  bouillabaisse, 59

  bourride, 64

  brandade de morue, 63

  calamári, grilled, 68

  eel in tiella al piselli, 62

  fish plakí, 61

  grillade au fenouil, 63

  inkfish, civet of, 68

  mackerel aux petits pois, 62

  mullet, grey, au vin blanc, 61

  mullet, red cold, niçoise, 61

  with fennel, 63

  grilled, 61

  octopus, 67

  raïto, 63

  sardines beignets, 62

  marinés à la niçoise, 152

  soup, 20, 21, 22

  taramá, 151


  trout, with sauce aux noix, 62

  tunny fish, fresh, 64

  FISH, SHELL

  coquilles St Jacques. See Scallops below

  crayfish with sauce provençale, 53

  lobster

  roast, 54

  Romesco, 53

  moules. See Mussels below

  mussels

  au citron, 52

  in fish soup, 20, 21, 23

  marinière, 51, 52

  omelette, 36

  in risotto, 94

  soup, 22

  and spaghetti, 53

  stuffed, 52

  paëlla valenciana, 95, 97

  ragoût of shell fish, 54

  risotto, 94

  scallops

  coquilles St Jacques à la crème, 50

  fried à la provençale, 51

  scampi

  fried, 50

  in ragoût of shell fish, 54

  in shell-fish soup, 23

  and tomato soup, 23

  foie de veau aux carottes, 102

  fool (Egyptian brown beans), 105

  frogs’ legs provençale, 42

  fruit, preserved, 177

  fruit salad, 162

  frying batter, 50

  garlic

  in bourride, 64

  butter for snails, 46

  with gigot à la provençale, 76

  in lièvre à la royale, 118

  with partridges, 112

  sauces

  aïllade, 188

  aïoli, 188

  catalane, 185

  rouille, 189

  skordaliá, 188

  gaspacho, 24

  gateau de figues sèches, 165

  Gautier, Théophile, on gaspacho, 24

  Genoese rice, 98

  gigot

  de mouton en chevreuil, 79

  à la provençale, 76

  goose

  en daube, 146

  rôtie à la bordelaise, 111

  grapes

  muscat, and melon, 170

  with partridge, 112

  raisiné de Bourgogne, 177

  grenouilles provençales, 42

  grey mullet. See Mullet, grey

  ham

  bastourma, note on, 149

  louza, note on, 149

  persillé de Bourgogne, 145

  prosciutto, note on, 149

  HARE

  in agrodolce, 123

  civet de lièvre, 122

  pâté, 144

  à la royale, 118

  haricot beans. See Beans

  Heyraud, H., on tian, 154

  honey

  palace bread (esh es seraya), 163

  Siphniac honey pie, 164

  and walnut cream, 171

  HORS D’OEUVRE

  ambelopoùlia, 150

  aubergines

  in a marinade, 151

  salad, 151

  black olives, 149

  cucumber, pickled, salad, 156

  dolmádes, 150

  green olives, 149

  haricot beans, salad, 155

  hummus bi tahina, 152

  leeks à la grecque, 155

  note on, 148

  olives, 149

  onions à la monégasque, 155

  pan bagn, 153

  patafla, 154

  pickled cucumber salad, 156

  pimento salad, 155

  Provençal salad, 155

  sardines marinés à la niçoise, 152

  spinach, salad, 155

  sweet peppers, salad, 155

  tahina salad, 153

  taramá, 151

  tian, 153

  hummus bi tahina, 152

  iced soups. See Soups, iced

  inkfish, civet of, 68

  James, Henry, ‘Luncheon at Bourg’, 31

  JAMS AND PRESERVES

  dates, glacé, stuffed, 176

  grapes in raisiné de Bourgogne, 177

  melon à l’aigre-doux, 176

  peach jam, 177

  pears à l’aigre-doux, 175

  with raisiné de Bourgogne, 177

  plums à l’aigre-doux, 175

  preserved mixed fruit, 177

  quinces paste, Spanish, 176

  preserve, 177

  raisiné de Bourgogne with pears, 177

  tomatoes, fresh, 178

  walnuts, stuffed, in syrup, 187

  jambon. See Ham

  Jerusalem artichoke soup, 19

  kasséri, 43

  kebabs, 77

  Kenney-Herbert, A., on omelettes, 31

  KID

  note on, 87

  en ragoût, 87

  stuffed shoulder, 87

  kidneys, veal, braised with port, 38

  Klephti cooking, 113

  kokkorétsi, 79

  kottópittá, 42

  kwass, 26

  LAMB (see also MUTTON)

  arní souvlákia, 77

  kebabs, 77

  lamb on the bone, 78

  langue de boeuf en paupiettes, 38

  lapin. See Rabbit

  Laubreaux, A., on snails, 44

  Lawrence, D. H., ‘The Vegetable Market at Palermo’, 127

  leeks

  à la grecque, 155

  à la provençale, 131

  purée Léontine, 18

  lentils with rabbit, 124

  Léontine, purée, 18

  lepre. See Hare

  lièvre. See Hare

  liver

  calf’s with carrots, 102

  with pimentos, 38

  chanfaϊna of pig’s liver, 147

  Pâté of chicken livers, 144

  lobster

  roast, 54

  Romesco, 53

  Mackenzie, Compton, ‘Ices in Athens’ 159

  mackerel aux petits pois, 62

  macquereaux. See Mackerel

  marrow, baby. See Courgettes

  matelote, oeufs en, 35

  Mediterranean fish soup, 21

  melokhia soup, 23

  melon

  à l’aigre-doux, 176

  and muscat grapes, 170

  melon, water, stuffed with blackberries, 161

  mézés, 148

  morue. See Salt cod

  moules. See Mussels

  mousaká, 37

  mousse

  chocolate cream, 167

  coffee, 167

  mozzarella cheese, in pizza, 39

  mullet, grey, au vin blanc, 61

  mullet, red

  cold, niçoise, 61

  with fennel, 63

  grilled, 61

  muscat grapes and melon, 170

  mushrooms (see also Cèpes)

  à l’arménienne, 135

  à la provençale, 135

  risotto, 93

  and snipe, 114

  mussels

  au citron, 52

  in fish soup, 20, 21, 23

  marinière, 51, 52

  omelette, 36

  in ragoût of shell fish, 54

  in risotto, 94

  soup, 22

 

‹ Prev