by Coe, Andrew
Reasoner, Harry, 238
recipes for Chinese food:
distributed by La Choy, 193–94
in Jewish cookbook, 203
newspaper and magazine, 164, 165, 185
See also cookbooks
“Recipes from the Sui Gardens” (Yuan), 66–67
red beans (azuki), 80
Red Flag, 228
regional cuisines of China:
cookbooks describing, 218
eastern, 67, 99
northern, 99, 221
southern, 99–102
western, 99
Reinhart, Herman Francis, 135
restaurants, Chinese. See Chinese restaurants in America
restaurants in China:
American franchises, 248–49, 250
history of, 34–35, 94–96, 94–97, 98, 100–101, 101
Ricci, Matteo, 20–21
rice, 30, 33
in Chinese cuisine, 23, 57, 78–79, 92, 99, 100
cultivation of, 6, 71, 72, 76, 78–79, 100, 101
early cooking methods, 73, 76, 84
in fan-cai dichotomy, 79, 94, 98, 101, 134–35
noodles from, 91
sprouts, 164
See also rice wine
rice wine:
and drunken prawns, 67
in fermentation process, 86
invention of, 91
mao-tai, 235, 239
samchou, 15, 48
Richardson, Albert, 103, 106
Roberts, Edmund, 32
Robinson, Edward G., 195
Rock Springs massacre, 142–43
Rogers, Richard, 197
rumaki, 216
Sacramento, 134, 142
samchou (rice wine), 15, 48
Sam Yap (Three Districts) region, 100, 101
Sam Yap Company, 104
Sandwich (Hawaiian) Islands, 27, 41, 109, 206–7
San Francisco, 108, 123, 131
immigrants to, 107–10, 112–13, 134, 243–44
1906 earthquake, 133, 174–75
See also San Francisco Chinatown; San Francisco restaurants
San Francisco Call, 175
San Francisco Chinatown:
as distributor of Chinese products, 208
Dupont Street (Grant Avenue), 103, 107, 108, 110, 123, 208
tourists to, 128–31, 175, 208
trade relationships with China, 118–19, 120, 134
See also San Francisco restaurants
San Francisco restaurants:
advertisements for, 131, 190
anecdotes of, 103–7, 110, 111–12, 123–25, 126, 127, 129–30, 132, 173
banquet fare in, 208–9
nightclubs in, 189
revitalization of, 220–21
San Francisco Whig, 123–24
San Gabriel Valley, 244, 251
sauces:
in Chinese cuisine, 86–87, 99, 100
See also specific sauces
savoriness, in Chinese cuisine, 86–87
scallions, 79, 85, 98, 99, 100
scorpions, 249
scurvy, 3
sea biscuit, 2, 3
sea cucumbers:
as Chinese delicacy, 27, 48, 50–51, 58, 98
flavor of, 27, 28, 50–51
and Nixon visit to China, 237
as trade good, 27–28, 93–94
seafood:
in Chinese cuisine, 72, 82, 84, 99, 100, 120
coastal California, 119–20
fermentation of, 86
in kosher practice, 198
See also crabs; fish; shrimp
seasoning, in Chinese cuisine, 85–87
See also sauces; spices
seaweed, 80
seed oils, 85
Sentinel Jewish Cook Book, 203
sesame oil, 85
shallots, 85
Shandong, 72, 99
Shangdi, 17
Shang Dynasty, 73–75, 75, 85, 86
Shanghai (city), 53, 62, 79, 99, 116, 231–32
Shanghai Chop Suey Café, 174
Shanghai cuisine:
in American restaurants, 221, 223, 244
origins of, 99
Shanghai Low (nightclub), 189
“Shanghai mind,” 54–55
Shanhaijing (Guideways through Mountains and Seas), 18, 21
sharks’ fins:
as Chinese delicacy, 50–51, 58, 61, 93–94, 239
diners’ anecdotes, 105, 126
recipe, 164
Shaw, Samuel, 4
on Chinese culture and cuisine, 4, 7–8, 13–14
etiquette concerns of, 10–13
as pioneer of Chinese-American trade, 3–4, 5, 6, 10, 15, 16
on shipboard cuisine, 3
Shaw, William, 111
sheep, 2, 80–81
See also lamb; mutton
shellfish, 72, 100
See also seafood
Shen Nong, 72–73
Shoot the Works (musical), 196–97
shrimp, 67, 120, 198, 205, 223
Shunde, 101
Shun Lee (restaurant), 222–23, 241, 246
Shun Lee Dynasty (restaurant), 223
Shu Xi, 88–89
Sia, Mary Li, 207
Sichuan cuisine:
in American restaurants, 221, 223, 236, 243, 244
origins of, 83, 99
Sichuan peppers, 83, 85
Sichuan Province, 17, 69, 83, 92, 99
Sigel, Elsie, murder case, 180–84
Silk Road, 19, 57, 68, 83
silver:
mining, 135
as trade currency, 1, 26, 28
See also mining camps
Six Companies, 104, 113
Smith, Keely, 197
Smith, Wally, 192
snakes, in Chinese cuisine, 23, 81, 231
Snow, Edgar, 226
Society of the Right and Harmonious Fists, 165–66
“Some Celestial Dishes” (Hamm), 165
Song Dynasty, 84, 85, 86, 94–95
South China:
climate of, 70
cultivation in, 71, 72, 76, 78–79, 82–83
geography of, 69–70
typical modern fare, 80
South China Sea, 100
Southern regional cuisine of China, 99–102
South Florida Sun-Sentinel, 249
soybeans, 76, 80, 86–87
soy sauce:
as American convenience food, 192, 193, 250
in Chinese cuisine, 86–87, 92, 98, 100, 134, 160
and Chinese miners, 137
Spain, 165
Speer, William, 134
spices:
in Chinese cuisine, 83, 85, 134
in European cuisine, 12
See also specific spices
squashes, 101
stags’ pizzles, 23
star anise, 134
steamed breads, 88, 89, 95, 99
steaming. See cooking methods
stir-fry:
Chinese dishes called, 111, 149–50
chop suey as, 160, 164
cooking method of, 85, 87, 101
St. Louis, 171–72
Stockton, Calif., 134
Stork Club, 192
string beans, 122
sturgeon, 81, 120
Sui Ren, 72
Suiyan Shidan (Yuan), 66–67
Sumatra, 4
Sun Leung, 182
Sun Yat-Sen, 206
Susanna Foo’s (restaurant), 248
Szechuan cuisine. See Sichuan cuisine
Szechuan East (restaurant), 224
Szechuan Restaurant, 224
Szechuan Taste (restaurant), 223–24
“Szechuan Valley,” 244
Sze Yap (Four Districts) region, 101–2, 113, 159, 161, 210
Sze Yap Company, 124
Taipei, 223
Tai, Uncle, 243
Taiwan, 214, 217, 223, 234
Chef Peng in, 243–44
Tang Dynasty, 85, 89, 90
&nbs
p; T’ang, King, 73–75
Tan River, 101
taro, 80, 101
Taverne Alsacienne (restaurant), 157
Taylor, Bayard, 110, 115–17, 140
Taylor, Charles, 62–63, 116
tea:
American taste for, 22, 132–33
in Chinese cuisine, 92, 95, 96–97
as Chinese export, 2, 15, 16, 22, 26, 92
from jujubes, 82
origins of, 92, 132
preparation of, 92, 132
See also teahouses
teahouses, 95, 96–97, 100
Tenderloin district, 167, 168
Territorial Enterprise, 136
texture, in Chinese cuisine, 86
thousand-year-old eggs, 136, 238
Three Districts region, 100, 101
Three Gorges Dam, 69
Tiananmen Square, 224, 247
Tibet, 17, 68
Tibet Plateau, 68, 69
Tiki bars, 216
Tiki Temple (restaurant), 233
Tilden, Bryant Parrott, 29–31
Times (Long Acre) Square, 167, 168
Todd, Mrs. Florence, 182
tofu (bean curd), 67, 80, 210
Toishan, 161
Tong, Michael, 222, 241, 245–46, 251
trade. See American traders in China; British traders; Chinese trade
Trader Vic’s, 216, 233
Trafton, Edwin H., 144–48
Treaty of Nanking, 37, 39
Treaty of Wang Xia, 47, 49, 50, 52
trepang, 27
See also sea cucumbers
Triton (French merchant ship), 4–5
Tso, General, 241–42
Tune Fong’s (restaurant), 132
Turkey, 36
turmeric, 134
turnips, 79
turtles, in Chinese cuisine, 81–82
Twain, Mark, 136
Tyler, John, 38, 39, 40, 52
Uncle Peng’s Hunan Yuan, 243
Uncle Tai, 243
Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan, 241
“Underground Gourmet” (food column), 223
“underground gourmets,” 157
Uneasy Money (Wodehouse), 191
United States history:
American Revolution, 4, 10–11, 22, 24
anti-Chinese movement in, 140–43, 153
Beijing Summer Olympics (2008), 248–50
Chinese Exclusion Act, 142, 161, 205, 206, 216
Constitutional Convention, 16
1893 World’s Columbian Exposition, 171
Geary Act, 142
Gold Rush, 102, 107–10, 112–14, 115, 134
Great Depression, 205
Immigration and Nationality Act, 217, 223
Korean War, 225
Li Hongzhang’s visit, 161–64, 240
Magnuson Act of 1943, 216–17
Maine battleship explosion, 165
Manifest Destiny, 40–41, 115, 165
moon landing, 1
as new country, 1, 4, 5, 6, 10–11, 16, 24–25, 26
Nixon’s visit to China, 224–26
pre-revolutionary, 22–23
Prohibition, 189, 207
transcontinental railroads, 138
Treaty of Wang Xia, 47, 49, 50, 52
War Brides Act, 217
See also Americans in China
U.S.S. Brandywine, 38
Vanity Fair, 197
vegetables:
in Chinese cuisine, 71, 79–80, 83–84, 86, 99, 100, 101, 134
early cooking methods, 83, 84
in fan-cai dichotomy, 79–80, 94, 101
fermentation of, 86
in food therapy, 78
in western shipboard cuisine, 2, 3, 5
See also specific vegetables
vegetarian cuisine, 89–90
vendors, street:
in America, 120–22, 123, 129
in China, 29, 89, 95, 97, 98
Vietnam, 17, 79
Views A-Foot (Taylor), 115
vinegar, 3, 92, 99
Virginia City, 135–36
A Visit to India, China and Japan (Taylor), 117
Volstead Act, 189
Voltaire, 23
Waldorf Hotel, 162, 163, 164
Walker, Ron, 233, 234
Wall Street Journal, 241
Walters, Barbara, 238
Wangfujing Night Market, 249
Wang, Tsung Ting, 222, 241, 243
Wang Xiaoyu, 65–66
Wang Xia Temple (Kun Iam Temple), 42, 47
Wang Xia, Treaty of, 47, 49, 50, 52
Wang Yun Ching, 224
War Brides Act, 217
Washington, D.C., 170, 212, 220
Washington, George, 22
Washington Post, 163, 212–13
water buffaloes, 72, 101
water chestnuts, 80, 160, 192
Webster, Daniel, 39, 40, 41, 46
Webster, Fletcher, 46, 48, 51
the West. See American West
Western culinary traditions:
American frontier, 118, 137, 138, 139
Chinese opinion of, 49, 153–54
European, 12, 14, 44–46, 54, 92, 132–33
French, 107, 155–56
lack of adventurousness in, 14, 54
pan-North Atlantic, 2–3
“primal stew” of, 176
Western regional cuisine of China, 99
Whampoa, China, 6, 26
wheat:
cultivation of, 79, 88, 90, 91
and dough cookery, 88–91
gluten from, 89–90
milling of, 76, 87–88
in northern cuisine, 99
Whitman, Walt, 157
“Who’ll Chop Your Suey When I’m Gone” (Bechet), 196
Whymper, Frederick, 117
Williams, Bert, 196
Williams, Samuel Wells, 32–33, 34, 55–60
Williams, Sarah, 55
wines:
Chinese, 82
western, 2, 5, 12
See also rice wine
Wodehouse, P.G., 191
Wo Fat (restaurant), 206, 207
wok (cooking pot), 87
Wo Kee, 149, 151
Wong Ching Foo, 152–55, 159, 160–61
wontons, 89, 154, 210, 216, 219
Workingmen’s Party, 141
World’s Columbian Exposition (1893), 171
World War II, 228
Wouk, Herman, 200–203
Wright, Russel, 223
Xia Dynasty, 72–73
Xinhui, 101
Xinjiang dishes, 244
Xi River (West River), 69
Yang Guifei, 82–83
Yangzi basin, 92, 217
Yangzi River, 65, 67, 69, 71, 72
Yangzi Valley, 36, 67
Yates, M.T., 116
Ye Jianying, 228
“Yellow Emperor” (Huang Di), 73, 78
Yellow River (Huanghe River), 68–69, 70, 71, 88
Yeo, Patricia, 248
yin and yang, 74, 78
Yi Yin, 74–75, 85–86
Yongle Emperor, 20
Yuan Dynasty, 92, 99
Yuan Mei,, 64–67, 93, 98, 163
Yü Emperor, 17, 18
Yunnan Yuan (restaurant), 243
Yu-ung-Fang-Lau (restaurant), 159
zao (cooking stove), 87
Zhang Dynasty, 80
Zhang Qian, 19
Zhen He, 20
Zhili, 161
Zhongshan district, 101, 206
Zhou Dynasty, 75–76, 80, 81, 84, 86, 92
Zhou Enlai, 224, 225, 227, 228–31, 236–39
Zhu River (Pearl River), 5, 6, 69–70, 100
See also Pearl River Delta
“zones” of influence, Chinese, 17, 18, 22
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