11. INSIDE THE ROLL
Sushi rolls in Japan vs. in the U.S.: Nakamura 68–69, 73, 165–169; Tamamura 241–242; Tsuji 288; “Uma-yasu no Sushi.” Inside-out roll construction: Basics of Sushi. California roll: Tamamura 234–235; “History: Pioneers” Nakamura 162. Avocado: McGee 337. Inside-out rolls to hide seaweed; reports about “black paper”: Nakamura 73, 175. Tamamura 200–201. Paper-making and nori: Uchida 135. Global seaweed consumption: Kiple 232–233, 1850; Guiry; McGee 341. Nori and laver, Kathleen Drew-Baker: Guiry; Chen; Nishizawa; Nelson, W.; Nagayama 245; Satomi 206–209; Nakamura 73–74; Omae 101–102; Tamamura 199–201; McGee 343; “Girl from Leigh” “Seaweed.” Thin rolls: Nagayama 193–211; Tsuji 303; “Kappa” “Tekka-maki” Shinmura 472; Matsumura 479. Sushi roll from 1776: Yoshino 310. Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles as kappa: Teenage. Bromophenols: McGee 192. Japanese tourists: interview with Jeffrey Nitta and Jay Terauchi (21 July 2005).
12. PUTTING ON THE SQUEEZE
Neta: Shinmura 1866; e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (6 Aug. 2006). Converting sea creatures to neta: Satomi 177–204. CSA nigiri technique: Basics of Sushi. Qualities and styles of nigiri: Naruse 14–17, 22–23; Yoshino 78–80; Nakamura 57–61; Omae 67.
13. FAST FOOD
Crisp nori: Nakamura 73. Big roll: Tsuji 300–302. Quest for speed, different approaches in Japan vs. in the U.S.: Nakamura 186–187; Tamamura 241–242, 248–249, 263–264.
14. AMERICAN STYLE
Jeff’s personal history: interviews with Jeffrey Nitta (21 July 2005, 9 Sep. 2005). Jay’s personal history: interviews with Jay Terauchi (16 and 21 July 2005, 23 and 24 Sep. 2005). Inflexibility of Japanese chefs in U.S. and influx of non-Japanese Asian chefs: Jeff’s comments echoed in Tamamura 201–202. Americanization of sushi: Jeff’s comments echoed in Kessler. Masa: Platt.
15. SHOW TIME
Nozawa “the sushi Nazi”: interview with Jay Terauchi (19 July 2005); author visit to Sushi Nozawa (19 Sep. 2005). Takumi’s personal history: interviews with Takumi Nishio (20 July 2005; 11, 12, 16, and 23 Sep. 2005); e-mail interviews with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (12 Aug. 2006, 1 Sep. 2006); “Patona.”
16. FRUITS OF THE SEA
L.A. fish-market items available and purchased on 22 July 2005: author visit to, and inventory and price-list printouts and invoices from, International Marine Products, Inc. and Ocean Group, Inc. (22 July 2005). Tetsu’s personal history: interview with Tetsuya Tsumoto (12 Sep. 2005). International Marine Products: “About Us.” Tsukiji Fish Market in Japan: Bestor (2004) 1–90; Corson, “Tsukiji” author visit to Tsukiji Fish Market (18 Mar. 2004); interviews with Zoran Lekic (17, 19, and 22 July 2005).
17. BLOOD AND GUTS
Textbook on grilling: Tsuji 174–182. Fish evolution: Moyle 221–243; Purves 617–625. Lack of ovens: Tsuji 175. Anatomy and the science of cooking: McGee 129–134, 146–150, 187–192, 778; Sakaguchi 117–118, 162–166. Kirara fish-cutting scene: Hayakawa v. 1, 181–182. Smell: Engen; “The Power of Smell.” Mackerel: McGee 202.
18. EAT THE PIE
Headbands and other styles of sushi-chef apparel: Ishige 228; Restaurant Supply 173–180.
19. THE BIG TEST
Sweet egg omelet: Nakamura 39; Omae 19, 51.
20. SUSHI NATION
Jeff’s observations on developments in American sushi: interviews with Jeffrey Nitta (21 July 2005, 8 Aug. 2005, 9 and 23 Sep. 2005, 22 Mar. 2006). Howard Dean: Ehrenreich. Starbucks and Blockbuster in Iowa: Lozano; Google Maps at http://local.google.com. Data on restaurants serving sushi: During the summer of 2006 my research assistant Jenny Mayo of the Advanced Program in Writing at Johns Hopkins University collected data on restaurants and supermarkets selling sushi in 14 Midwestern states. Mayo gathered initial lists of food establishments from online restaurant guides and phone books for each city. She telephoned each restaurant to confirm its status, then checked each restaurant’s incorporation data as filed with the state government. Only restaurants that Mayo could identify in state government databases are listed here, so actual numbers are undoubtedly higher. Incorporation data provided an approximate but not exact guide to the dates when restaurants opened. Mayo also interviewed restaurant owners and food critics about sushi in many of the states she surveyed. Waterloo, IA: Ericson. Sioux City, IA: Crawford. Indianapolis, IN: Lloyd. Chicago, IL: phone interview with restaurant critic Phil Vettel of the Chicago Tribune (24 July 2006) by Jenny Mayo; LaMorte. Dallas/Forth Worth, TX: Stuertz. Wal-Mart: Halkias. Advanced Fresh Concepts, Genji Express, and Sushi Avenue: Company Web sites (accessed 31 Oct. 2006) http://www.afcsushi.com, http://www.genjiweb.com, and http://www.sushiavenue.com; Tamamura 214–216; Kessler; Moskin “Sushi.” Total number of sushi restaurants and take-out outlets: phone interviews with Laura Murphy of the California Rice Commission (31 Aug. 2006) and David Kudo of All Japan News Inc. (31 Aug. 2006) by Jenny Mayo. Nationalities of chefs: Naka; phone interviews with restaurant critic Dennis Ray Wheaton of Chicago Magazine (26 July 2006) and with staff at sushi restaurants in several Midwestern states (various dates, summer 2006) by Jenny Mayo; Takamura 201–203. Supermarkets before restaurants: Nakamura 161. Westernization of Japan and Japanese diet: Caryl; Lie 76–77; Ishige 155–158, 162–171.
21. MANHOOD OF SHRIMP
Shrimp and crustaceans: McGee 218–222; Yoshino 246; o ba 202–208; Koeller; Nagayama 51, 141, 183; Naruse 149; Satomi 189; Otwell; Garrido; Roberts.
22. GETTING FISHY
Mackerel: Nakamura 12–13, 16–19, 24–25, 47, 88–89; Naruse 128. Anisakis parasite: Oshima; Akbar; Weir; Sheraton; “Anisakiasis” “Parasites” McGee 186–187; Nakamura 89; Roach. Salting fish: McGee 212, 231–232. Smells of fish: McGee 192–193, 205–206; “Trimethylaminuria.” Salting and marinating: Omae 104–105; Nakamura 36–37; Sakaguchi 176–177; Naruse 61, Nagayama 127. Fish and enzymes: McGee 189–190, 211. Mackerel couriers: “Saba Kaido.” Ratio of muscle to body weight: Tidwell; Blakely; Greenberg. Three-piece breakdown: Tsuji 123–127. Albacore: Yoshino 122–123; Nakamura 75.
23. RAW DEAL
History of sashimi: Ishige 224–227; Sato 67; e-mail interview with Eric Rath of the University of Kansas (28 Sep. 2006). Column peel: Tsuji 138–139. Radish and perilla: Nakamura 97–98; oba 44; McGee 310, 321–322, 404–405 (see also notes on mustard oils for Chapter 25, “Russian Roulette”). Food presentation as Zen garden: Ishige 187–189; Ohnuki-Tierney 206.
24. MACKEREL GAL
Scombroid poisoning: McGee 185; Moskin “Tuna’s Red Glare.” Categories of red, white, and blue/shiny: Yoshino 111; oba 94–97; Honda 2–3; Naruse 84–154. Mackerel gals: e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (6 Aug. 2006). Dandy, pimp: Davidson 467. Scales: Moyle 15–17. Pin bones: McGee 190. Box sushi: Tsuji 295–299; Nakamura 12–13.
25. RUSSIAN ROULETTE
Examples of American-style rolls: Kauffman; Griffith. Big roll: Tsuji 300–302; Omae 70. Most commercial wasabi: ingredients list is from Waner brand bulk wasabi powder used at Hama Hermosa; most brands are similar. Wasabi science and history: McGee 415–418; Bones; Barber, M.; Naruse 78–80; Ishige 227; oba 43–45; Nakamura 69–71; Nagayama 241; Hayakawa v. 5 138–139; Ono; “Technical and Medicinal” Daio Wasabi; interviews with Clark Sayer of Clark Sayer & Associates (26 Mar. 2006 and 4 April 2006). Roy Carver and Pacific Farms: author visit to Pacific Farms in Florence, OR, and interview with Ted Wakeman, farm operations manager (27 Feb. 2006; follow-up phone interview, 8 Mar. 2006); Sheff; Crain; Uhrhammer; Strauss.
28. COMEDY CLUB
Scene from Kirara comic: Hayakawa v. 4 188–190. Jay Leno: Gunther. Toshi hiring actors and comedians: interview with Toshi Sugiura (2 Sep. 2005).
30. FROM FRESHWATER
Parasites in salmon: Deardorff; Sheraton; Smith, D.; Frederick; “Parasites” McGee 186–187; Omae 24; Roach; “Quarterly Update” interviews with state government food safety officials in California (17 Aug. 2006) by my research assistant Jenny Mayo of Johns Hopkins University; “Making Food.” Fi
sh evolution and salmon biology and farming: Morgan 17–34; Quinn 4–10, 105–129, 141–142; McGee 194, 198–199; oba 95; Bestor (2004) 148–149; Hites; Jans; Weber; Purves 617–625; Moyle 2, 24, 221–243; Ade. Bears: Gende. Traditional lean sushi toppings vs. modern fatty ones: Nakamura 22–23, 35–36, 88–89, 92–93; Nagayama 175; Omae 24, 31, 33; Bestor (2004) 142; Sakaguchi 71–74. Fish shapes and cutting: Tsuji 118–131.
31. CONGRATULATIONS FISH
History, names, biology, and farming of sea bream/snapper/tai: Nakamura 22–23, 98–101; Omae 31; Sato 19, 53; Nagayama 49; oba 127; Naruse 101–102; Helfman 10–18; Stevens; Marko; Snapper Aquaculture; Watanabe, T.; e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (10 Aug. 2006); McGee 197. Kirara scene with leftover sushi: Hayakawa v. 1, 34–35. Muscle types: Moyle 23–26; McGee 131–133, 184, 188; Helfman 260–262; Sakaguchi 71–72. Sea bream taste: Naruse 101–102. Yuzu flavor components: McGee 374, 378.
32. UNLEASH THE BEAST
Names, biology, and farming of yellowtail: Nakamura 83–86; Naruse 111–114, 159; Uehara; Hernen; Kolkovski; Watanabe, T.; Thakur; “Yellowtail Life Cycle” Knecht; Mazzola; “Shusse.” Scales: Thain 636–637; Purves 621; Stern 62–65; Moyle 15–17. Five-piece breakdown: Tsuji 123–130. Wrapping fish in kelp: interview with Tetsuya Tsumoto (17 Sep. 2005). Muscle geometry: Helfman 260–262; McGee 191–192.
33. FLATFISH
Names, biology, musculature, and evolution of flatfish: Bond 232–235; McGee 202–203; Nakamura 23, 80–83, 164; oba 143–144; Nagayama 39, 175; Naruse 103–107; Omae 33; Pauly 79–82; Moyle 15–17, 335–340; Helfman 138–139, 268; Okada; Martinez; Ohno; Luckenbach; Sakaguchi 71–80; Sato 71; e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (27 July 2006). Fish swimming: Helfman 267; Colgate.
36. SEA SNAKES
History, biology, life cycle, and harvesting of eels: Schweid 12–35, 41–43, 65–68, 89–95, 103; Helfman 224–225; Bond 141; Sakaguchi 163–172; Sato 87, 100; Yoshino 214; Nakamura 26; oba 156; Moyle 17; Sbaihi; Tsukamoto; Clarke; Schreiber; e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (27 Aug. 2006). Kirara eel scene: Hayakawa v. 8, 133. Sauce in packaged eel: ingredients list from a common brand (Shirakiku) of pre-packaged frozen eel from China.
37. TENTACLES OF THE DEEP
Octopus poison: Satomi 87–88; Yoshino 264. Octopus and squid biology, behavior, anatomy, and predators: McGee 229–230; Boyle 15–16, 29–50; Hanlon 31–43, 69–76; Benjamins; Sumbre; Naruse 136; Nagayama 45, 97; Sakaguchi 159; Sato 179; Yoshino 246; Bittman. Preparation of live octopus: Satomi 196–197. Kirara scene: Hayakawa v. 13, 7–64. Computer screens: Ball. Squid-fed tuna: Sato 142; interview with Takumi Nishio (17 Sep. 2005). Overfishing: Worm. Hama Hermosa losing money: interview with Toshi Sugiura (10 Sep. 2005).
38. GIANT CLAM
Geoduck as phallic object: Dean, Sintax. History, biology, and harvesting of geoducks: “Geoduck Program” Scigliano; oba 268–270; Omae 47; McGee 227; 3 Feet Under. Folk song: “(My Gal Left Me for a) Geoduck Clam” (see Bottomfeeders). Toxins in clams: McGee 185–186; Nakamura 95–97; Hackett; Corson “Spreading.” Flavors in clams, popularity in sushi: Sakaguchi 116–117, 146–147; Nakamura 95–97; McGee 225–227; Omae 24.
39. FINAL FISH
Transformation of tuna from low-class to high-class fish: Nakamura 35–38, 90–94; Sakaguchi 179–180; Yoshino 113–120; Bestor (2004) 142; Bestor (2000). Types of tuna and their fat content: McGee 201; Yoshino 122–124; Cascorbi. Types of tuna meat: Satomi 99. Tuna biology and anatomy: Safina 23, 51–60; Helfman 260–262, 267, 271; Oba 88–99; McGee 188, 194, 201–202; Satomi 141–146; Naruse 85–89; Moyle 24; Watanabe, M.; Colgate; Shadwick; Wardle. Maguro to describe stiffness during sex: e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (30 Oct. 2006). Preference for akami over toro: Nakamura 93. Freezing: McGee 205–206, 794–795; Bestor (2000); Bestor (2004) 150; Nakamura 90–94; Moskin “Sushi” Knecht; author visit to tuna auction at Tsukiji Fish Market (18 Mar. 2004). Most expensive tuna: “One Tuna.” Post-mortem flesh quality and aging: McGee 142–144, 189–190, 202–204; Nakamura 90–95, 101–105; Sakaguchi 73–80; Naruse 88–89; Sato 71; Satomi 149; Safina 26. Kirara scene: Hayakawa v. 13, 162–163. Oxidization and carbon-monoxide gassing: Moskin “Tuna’s Red Glare” McGee 194. Harvesting and aquaculture: Cascorbi; Khan; Nakamura 94–95. Surrogate parents: Takeuchi.
40. CARVING THE MOUNTAIN
Tuna filleting: author visits to Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo (18 Mar. 2004) and Ocean Fresh fish market in Los Angeles (22 July 2005). Mercury and Minamata: Nestle 187–202; Roe; Allchin; Smith, W.; Ishimure. Procedure for cutting a tuna fillet down into neta: also detailed in Satomi 136–138. Parasites in tuna: Oshima; Smith, D. Marinating tuna in soy sauce: Nakamura 35–37.
41. SUSHI KUNG FU
Haiku about witchcraft: Nakamura 20–21. Ninja: Omae 105–106. Sushi techniques and scenes in Kirara comic: Hayakawa v. 4 80–81; v. 5 85–86, 120–121, 148, 195; v. 7 133. Real styles of nigiri- making technique: e-mail interviews with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (10–11 Aug. 2006).
42. MORTAL COMBAT
Nare-zushi: see Chapter 5, “Like the Vomit of a Drunkard.”
43. DRUNKEN MASTER
Adjusting nigiri to match needs: also mentioned in Nakamura 57–58. Nigiri and techniques: see Chapter 12, “Putting on the Squeeze.” Jiro Ono: Satomi 251.
44. EGGS AND OVARIES
Sushi bar lingo: Nakamura 61–67. Salmon eggs: McGee 249–242; Quinn 8–10; Sakaguchi 236–237; Satomi 210; Omae 41; “Salmon at Risk” Gende; interview with Jay Terauchi (7 Sep. 2005). Artificial salmon eggs: Tanaka. Sea urchins: Ruppert 896–900; Pennisi; McGee 230; Steingarten 435–448; Oba 236; Nagayama 53; Sato 96; Nybakken 228–230; Nomura; Mattison; interviews with Dave Rudie of Catalina Offshore Products (24 Mar. 2006) and Tetsuya Tsumoto (9 Sep. 2005). “Battleship” sushi: Nakamura 34–35.
47. SUSHI MASTER
Rice in Sacramento Valley: press release “Sushi Fact Sheet: Sushi and California Rice,” California Rice Commission, 12 Aug. 2005. Sushi Masters competition: “Sushi Masters.” Rumor: interview with Robert Stanfield (25 Aug. 2005). Pioneer L.A. chefs: “History: Pioneers.”
49. HOMECOMING
Reconstruction of Kate’s job hunt: interview (24 Mar. 2006) and e-mail correspondence (various dates, Oct. 2005–Mar. 2006) with Kate Murray; author visit to San Diego and Oki Ton Japanese Bistro (24 Mar. 2006); interviews with Jack and Arbie Kenefick (24 Mar. 2006). Kirara scene: Hayakawa v. 13, 75–104.
APPENDIX: HOW TO EAT SUSHI
Satirical video: “Sushi: Nihon.” Sushi etiquette: Nakamura 38–39, 58–61; Omae 16–19; Nagayama 5, 9, 241; Satomi 258–262.
GLOSSARY OF SELECTED JAPANESE TERMS
TYPES OF SUSHI ROLLS
futo-maki
big roll: a traditional sushi roll made with a full sheet of nori on the outside and several ingredients inside
hoso-maki
thin roll: a traditional sushi roll made with a half sheet of nori on the outside and a single ingredient inside
kappa-maki
cucumber roll: a type of hoso-maki
tekka-maki
tuna roll: a type of hoso-maki
te-maki
hand roll: a quick sushi roll made without a bamboo mat, in the shape of a cone
ura-maki
inside-out roll: an American-style sushi roll made with the nori on the inside of the rice instead of the outside
OTHER TERMS
akami
red-meat tuna cut
ama-ebi
raw sweet shrimp
anago
saltwater eel
buri
mature yellowtail
chtoro
medium-fatty tuna cut
dashi
broth of kelp and bonito flakes
dmo arigat
thank you
ebi
boiled tiger shrimp
Edomae-zushi
the fast-food s
tyle of sushi from Japan’s old city of Edo (now Tokyo) that developed in the 1800s and that has become the predominate style of sushi in Japan and around the globe
engawa
the adductor fin muscle of flatfish, a delicacy in Japan
funa-zushi
an old style of sushi in which carp are packed in rice and left to ferment
gari
pickled ginger
gezakana
low-class fish
hako-zushi
box sushi
hamachi
farmed yellowtail
hikari mono
“shiny things”: the category of fish that sushi chefs serve with the shiny skin still attached
hirame
a category of flatfish generally considered desirable for sushi
ika
squid
ikura
salmon eggs
irasshaimase
(pronounced ee•ra•shai•mah•say) welcome
kaiseki
traditional multi-course Japanese meal
kanpachi
lean yellowtail, usually wild-caught
kanpai
bottoms up
karei
a category of flatfish generally considered less desirable for sushi
katsura-muki
column peel, a cutting technique that sushi chefs use on cucumbers and giant radishes
kji
mold used to ferment food and liquor
konbu
kelp
konnichiwa
hello
kusa
“grass”: sushi chef slang for nori
maguro
tuna
makisu
The Story of Sushi Page 32
