Lattente Espresso & Brew BarCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4833-1676; www.cafelattente.com; Thames 1891; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
Riding on BA’s java boom is this modern coffee shop serving house-roasted beans. Order your espresso, cappuccino, Americano or latte (via AeroPress or V60) and have a seat at one of the tall communal tables along with other hipster caffeine junkies. A few cookies and brownies are also on offer.
Victoria BrownCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4831-0831; www.victoriabrownbar.com; Costa Rica 4827; h9pm-4am Tue-Sat; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
Secreted behind a large draped door inside a cute coffee shop, this atmospheric speakeasy lounge serves up quality cocktails. It's a popular place so dress up and come early to snag a sofa or curvy table-booth. The industrial-style interior decor is sophisticated; even the bathroom fittings are creative.
CarnalBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4772-7582; www.carnalbar.com.ar; Niceto Vega 5511; h7pm-5:30am Tue-Sat; g151, 140, 168)
See and be seen on the rooftop terrace at this ever-popular watering hole – preferably with an icy vodka tonic in hand. With its bamboo lounges and billowy curtains, the place can’t be beat for a cool chill-out on a warm summer night. Early in the week reggae rocks, while Thursday to Saturday means pop and ’80s tunes.
AntaresBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4833-9611; www.cervezaantares.com; Armenia 1447; h7pm-4am; g140, 15, 110)
BA might be surfing the wave of a craft beer revolution, but Antares has been brewing ales at its Mar del Plata factory since the current crop of beer-makers were in diapers. Its Palermo branch is a modern but relaxed space serving the brewery's famous porters, stout and barley wine.
Order a beer flight, sample the brewmaster’s special-edition selection or just enjoy the two-for-one pints during happy hour. Also at Las Cañitas ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4772-2133; www.cervezaantares.com; Arévalo 2876; h6pm-2am Mon-Fri, 7pm-4am Sat & Sun; bLínea D Ministro Carranza).
KikaCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kikaclub.com.ar; Honduras 5339; hdoors open 1am Tue-Sun; g111, 34, 140)
Being supremely well located near the heart of Palermo’s bar scene makes Kika’s popular Tuesday-night ‘Hype’ easily accessible for those up for a party. It’s a mix of electro, rock, hip-hop, drum and bass, and dubstep, all spun by both local and international DJs. Other nights see electronica, raggaeton, Latin beats and live bands ruling the roost.
Post Street BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/Poststretbar/; Thames 1885; h5pm-1am Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
Colorful stencils and murals cover the walls of this casual place, making it feel like you’re hanging out in a grungy, artsy squat. It might lack the gloss of some of its Palermo neighbors but promotions such as free pizza on Thursdays keep the place buzzing.
CrobarCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4778-1500; www.crobar.com.ar; cnr Av de la Infanta Isabel & Freyre; h11:30pm-7am Fri & Sat; g10, 33, 111)
Stylish and spacious Crobar remains one of BA's most popular clubs. On Fridays international DJs mash up the latest techno selections at Be Techno, while on Saturdays there's a mix of electro-pop and Latin beats at Keek in the main room, as well as the gay party Rheo. Bring a full wallet – this is a top-end spot.
The main levels are strewn with mezzanines and catwalks that allow views from above.
CongoBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4833-5857; www.barcongo.com; Honduras 5329; h7pm-3am Wed-Thu, 8pm-5am Fri & Sat; g34, 111)
The highlight here is the beautiful back patio which comes into its own on hot summer nights, with its slick bar, leafy surroundings and comfy wood booths. The music is great, too, with DJs spinning from Wednesday to Saturday, and inside there are elegant low lounges in romantic spaces. A full food menu is available, along with strong cocktails.
Mundo BizarroCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4773-1967; www.facebook.com/MundoBizarroCocktail/; Serrano 1222; h8pm-3am Tue-Thu, 9pm-5am Fri & Sat; g55, 140, 141)
This red-lit, futuristically retro lounge bar is open pretty much all through the night on weekends, when everything from old-time American music to hip DJs to jazz stirs up the airwaves. If you’re feeling peckish, check out the American-inspired bar food, which ranges from Tex-Mex to burgers to hot apple pie with ice cream.
Home HotelBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4779-1006; www.homebuenosaires.com; Honduras 5860; h8am-11:30pm; g111, 93)
Some of Palermo’s best cocktails can be found at Home Hotel’s intimate bar-restaurant. During the day, relax in the grassy garden next to the slick infinity pool. At night, settle down at the polished cement bar with a house cocktail, created by some of BA's best-known bartenders. A wide variety of vodkas, along with tapas are available.
SitgesGAY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/SitgesBuenosAires; Av Córdoba 4119; h11pm-4am Thu & Sun, midnight-6am Fri & Sat; g140, 109, 24)
One of BA's oldest gay clubs, with fun drag shows on Thursdays. Saturday night's Julepe party is the place to be seen.
Bach BarGAY & LESBIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-5184-0137; www.facebook.com/bach.bar/; José Antonio Cabrera 4390; h11pm-6am Fri & Sat, 10pm-6am Sun; g140, 141, 110)
This popular lesbian club hosts karaoke nights and raucous live drag shows on weekends.
Shanghai DragonPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4778-1053; www.theshanghaidragon.com; Aráoz 1199; h5pm-3am Mon-Wed, to 4am Thu & Fri, 6pm-5am Sat, to 2am Sun; g141, 110, 15)
Corner pub with mellow vibe, sports on TV and vague Asian theme. Come for dinner if you want Chinese food such as vegetable stir-fries and Kung Pao chicken, while happy hour means cheap drinks from 5pm to 10pm. Same owners as Gibraltar.
Club AráozCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-9751; www.clubaraoz.com.ar; Aráoz 2424; hFri & Sat; bLínea D Scalabrini Ortiz)
This multi-level club plays a mix of Latin, reggaeton and dance music and pulls in a young crowd. There’s no dress code – a good thing, since it tends to get hot and sweaty in here.
3Entertainment
Hipódromo ArgentinoHORSE RACING
( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4778-2800; www.palermo.com.ar; Av del Libertador 4101; g29, 152, 160)F
Even if you’re not usually a fan, a few hours at the races in the glamorous grandstand of the historic Hipódromo Argentino is a fabulous afternoon outing (with first-rate people-watching, to boot). The big race of the season is the Gran Premio Nacional in November.
The tango singer Carlos Gardel was a racehorse owner and regular at the tracks. One of his most famous songs, Por una Cabeza (By a Head), is about a compulsive gambler and womanizer who compares his addictions to horses and women.
Campo Argentino de PoloSPECTATOR SPORT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aapolo.com; Arévalo 3065; bLínea D Ministro Carranza)
Located just across from the Hipódromo Argentino in Palermo, this stadium holds up to 30,000 spectators and hosts polo’s most important events, including the Argentine Open Polo Championship in November and December; tickets are sold via Ticketek. Entrance to other more low-key, local tournaments is usually free; check the website for upcoming matches.
Salon CanningTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-15-5738-3850; www.parakultural.com.ar; Av Scalabrini Ortiz 1331; g141, 140, 15)
Some of BA’s finest dancers (no wallflowers here) grace this traditional venue with its great dance floor. Well-known tango company Parakultural stages good events on Monday, Tuesday and Friday, involving orchestras, singers and dance performances; check the website for class times and the milonga musical line-up. Expect big crowds and plenty of tourists.
La VirutaTANGO
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4774-6357; www.lavirutatango.com; Armenia 1366; g141, 15, 110)
Popular basement venue. Good beginner tango classes are available before
the milongas – translating into many inexperienced dancers on the floor earlier on – so if you’re an expert get here late (after 2am). Music can run the gamut from tango to rock to cumbia to salsa earlier in the evening, with more traditional tunes later.
If you're still there when the breakfast medialunas (croissants) are brought out at 4am it's probably been a good night.
Thelonious BarJAZZ
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4829-1562; www.thelonious.com.ar; Jerónimo Salguero 1884, 1st fl; h8:45pm-12:45am Wed & Thu, to 2:45am Fri & Sat; bLínea D Bulnes)
Upstairs in an old mansion lies this dimly lit jazz bar, with high brick ceilings and a good sound system. Come early to snag a seat (or reserve one ahead of time) and choose something from the typically Argentine food menu and good range of cocktails.
Los CardonesLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4777-1112; www.cardones.com.ar; Jorge Luis Borges 2180; h9pm-5am Wed-Sat; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
Come to this friendly, low-key peña (folk club) for mellow guitar shows, audience-participatory jam sessions (and possible dancing), hearty regional cuisine from northern Argentina and free-flowing red wine. A great place to hear traditional Argentine folklore music. Check the website for details on the current line-up and reserve ahead for a good table.
La Peña del ColoradoFOLK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4822-1038; www.lapeniadelcolorado.com; Güemes 3657; h5pm-5am Mon-Sat; bLínea D Bulnes)
The nightly music shows (mostly folkloric) are memorable at this rustic restaurant, and after midnight audience members pick up nearby guitars to make their own entertainment. There’s also northern Argentine food on offer, including locro (a corn and meat stew), chipá (chewy cheese balls) and humitas de Chala (like tamales) – the spicy empanadas are excellent.
7Shopping
Palermo Viejo, a large sub-neighborhood of Palermo, is a shopper's paradise. These days, the barrio hosts a wide range of designers selling high-end wares from home accessories and books to fancy stationery, soaps, candles, souvenirs, kids’ toys and gourmet chocolate. It’s easy to spend hours or even days shopping in Palermo; many design-minded travelers consider an afternoon here part of the sightseeing circuit.
oElementos ArgentinosHOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-6299; www.elementosargentinos.com.ar; Gurruchaga 1881; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat; bLínea D Plaza Italia)S
The high-quality carpets, rugs and blankets sold here are hand-dyed, hand-woven on a loom and fair trade; the owners work with cooperatives and NGOs to help the communities in northwestern Argentina where the textiles are produced. Have larger items mailed home, or pick up a super soft llama wool blanket to squeeze into your suitcase.
oBosqueARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-2071-0737; https://bosque2.mitiendanube.com/; Av Dorrego 2086; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat; bLínea D Ministro Carranza)
A charming range of arts and crafts with a botanical bent are sold in this tiny boutique. The woodland theme is evident in the forest scenes of the limited-edition illustrations, hand-painted decorative plates, ceramics and cushions, as well as geometric wooden lamps and decorative objects, all by independent local designers.
BlackmambaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-5083; www.beblackmamba.com; Soler 4502; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; bLínea D Scalabrini Ortiz)
Bianca Siconolfi's sultry designs for her label Blackmamba include menswear, womenswear and unisex pieces with a dark, gothic edge. Her leather jackets are particularly covetable (and cost around AR$15,000).
Lo de Joaquín AlberdiFOOD & DRINKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-5329; www.lodejoaquinalberdi.com; Jorge Luis Borges 1772; wine tastings AR$350; h11am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-9:30pm Sun; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
Nationally produced wines for every taste and budget line the racks and cellar of this attractive wine shop; ask friendly owner Joaquín for his recommendations. Tastings happen Thursday and Fridays at 7:30pm (book online ahead of time) and include four wines and some cheeses.
Monte Arte Étnico ArgentinoHOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-0516; www.monteargentino.com; El Salvador 4656; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat; g15, 111, 141)
Bright and beautiful woven mantas (blankets) from Santiago del Estero are the main attraction at this upscale shop, located in an old house. All are made from wool and natural dyes, and can also be used as light rugs.
HumawacaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-2662; www.humawaca.com; El Salvador 4692; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 2-7pm Sun; g141, 15, 39)
Award-winning designer handbags, tote bags and wallets made with Argentine leather, all with clean modernist lines and colorful hues. Visit this tiny boutique – with the tagline 'todo cow' – and you'll always find something different and eye-catching. Bags cost around AR$2000 to AR$5000.
Juana de ArcoFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4833-1621; www.juanadearco.net; El Salvador 4762; h10:30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 1-8pm Sun; g141, 15, 39)
Mariana Cortés has designed adorable printed fabrics sewn into girly sets that would be best showcased during a pillow fight – think brightly colored T-shirts, flowery boxer shorts and tight leggings. Descend the staircase to discover more treasures.
Mercado de las PulgasMARKET
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/mercadodelaspulgascaba/; cnr Álvarez Thomas & Av Dorrego; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; g39, 140, 168)
This large covered warehouse is full of caged booths selling antiques, vintage objects and some modern items – precious things such as wooden furniture, glass soda bottles, chandeliers, clocks, silver trays, mirrors and ironwork. The building itself is a canvas for local graffiti artists – even if you don't want to shop, it's worth coming by to see the latest murals.
Galeria Patio del LiceoMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av Santa Fe 2729; hmost stores 2-8pm Mon-Sat; bLínea D Agüero)
Eclectic little shopping mall with a bohemian vibe. In the past few years, young independent artisans have taken over and created an artistic hub here, filling it with various small boutiques, exhibition spaces and workshops. You’ll find a couple of bookshops, Los Hermanos ukulele store and some great design stores, including Greens and sustainable specialists Tienda Raiz. Hours vary.
Hermanos EstebecorenaCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4772-2145; www.hermanosestebecorena.com; El Salvador 5960; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; bLínea D Ministro Carranza)
The Estebecorena brothers apply their highly creative skills toward smartly designed tops, jackets that fold into bags, polo-collar work shirts and even seamless underwear. The focus is on original, highly stylish, very functional men’s clothing that makes the artsy types swoon. Selection is limited, but what’s there really counts.
Libros del PasajeBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4833-6637; www.librosdelpasaje.com.ar; Thames 1762; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-9pm Sun; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
This literary sanctuary offers history, culture and art books. They're mostly in Spanish, but look for the small English section near the front door. There's a cute cafe in back, with a small indoor patio, for a snack or cup of coffee.
RapsodiaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4831-6333; www.rapsodia.com; Honduras 4872; h10am-9pm; g140, 110, 15)
With gorgeous printed fabrics and details such as fringe and sequins, this large and popular boutique is a must for fashion mavens. Old and new are blended into creative, colorful styles with exotic and bohemian accents. Locals covet the dresses and jeans. There are over a dozen branches in the city.
BoliviaCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-6284; www.bolivia-divina.com; Gurruchaga 1581; h10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 3-8:30pm Sun; g141, 110, 15)
There’s almost nothing here that your young, hip brother wouldn’t love, from the fitted shirts to the skin-tight jeans and the military-style jackets. Metrosexual to the hilt, and paradise for the man who isn’t a
fraid of patterns, plaid or pastels. Four other branches in the city.
MishkaSHOES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4833-6566; www.mishka.com.ar; El Salvador 4673; h10:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 2-8pm Sun; g111, 141, 15)
Wonderfully unique footwear with a retro-hip, feminine and slightly conservative vibe. Try on a pair of patent leather sandals for size, or go for more traditional suede moccasins (though styles are always changing). Check the website for other locations around the city.
28 SportSHOES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4833-4287; www.28sport.com; Gurruchaga 1481; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; g110, 141, 15)
For the retro-sports fanatic, there’s nothing better than this unique shop, with its sense of humor and vintage twist. Focusing on only one product and one style – men’s '50s sport-style shoes – the cobblers here can concentrate on quality and craftsmanship. Inspiration comes from football, boxing and bowling shoes.
Calma ChichaHOMEWARES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4831-1818; www.calmachicha.com; Honduras 4909; h10am-8pm; g15, 141, 140)
Calma Chicha specializes in creative housewares and accessories that are locally produced from leather, faux leather, sheepskin, cowhide and brightly hued fabric. Look for butterfly chairs, throw rugs, leather place mats, bright pillows and cow-skin bags.
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 22
