These days, the gaucho-for-export is much easier to spot than the real deal, especially in folkloric shows at many estancias. But the gaucho’s descendants can be found on cattle farms throughout the pampas, riding over the plains in their dusty boinas (a kind of beret) and bombachas (riding pants). And on special occasions, such as the Día de la Tradición, they sport their best horse gear and show off their riding skills.
5Eating & Drinking
oBoliche de BessonartBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Zapiola & Segundo Sombra; h11am-3pm & 6pm-late Tue-Sun)
This weather-beaten corner building full of dusty bottles was originally a general store and is more than 200 years old. These days it's a family-run bar popular with gauchos and young people alike, who come for the excellent picadas (sharing boards of cold cuts and cheese) washed down with copious beers, red wine or Fernet (a bitter aromatic spirit).
La Esquina de MertiARGENTINE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.esquinademerti.com.ar; cnr Arellano & Segundo Sombra; mains AR$100-155; h9am-midnight)
Located right on the plaza, this corner bar and restaurant is one of San Antonio de Areco's most traditional and atmospheric. Stop in for coffee, empanadas, sandwiches, a glass of wine, or a steak grilled on the parrilla. When the weather's nice the outdoor tables are a prime spot for gaucho-watching.
La Olla de CobreCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.laolladecobre.com.ar; Matheu 433; snacks AR$20-55; h10am-1pm & 2:30-7:30pm Wed-Sun, 10am-1pm Mon)
This cozy cafe specializes in artisanal chocolates and alfajores (cookie-type sandwiches usually stuffed with dulce de leche) to go with coffee, tea and hot chocolate. It's also a great place to pick up an edible gift.
Almacén Ramos GeneralesARGENTINE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ramosgeneralesareco.com.ar; Zapiola 143; mains AR$100-270; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight; W)
Another of San Antonio's historic dining venues, this elegantly restored space was once a general store. Today, it offers a quaintly rustic setting and quality, traditional Argentine fare – grilled meats from the parrilla, milanesas (fried breaded cutlets) and some specialty rabbit dishes.
Almacén Los PrincipiosBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Moreno 151; h8:30am-1pm & 5-9:30pm Mon-Sat)
Stop for a beer at this charming general store and bar, which remains much as it was when it first opened in 1922. Dusty jars and tins line the wooden shelves and vintage advertisements adorn the walls (it's a look many hipster bars aim for, but this place is the real deal).
Owner Américo Fernández, now in his 80s, has lived here all his life.
4Sleeping
While San Antonio is a popular destination for day trips out of Buenos Aires, it’s worth hanging around as there are some lovely places to stay. Book ahead on weekends, when prices go up.
oParadores DraghiGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02326-455583; www.paradoresdraghi.com.ar; Matheu 380; s/d/tr from US$75/95/110; aiWs)
It's worth staying over in Areco just so you can check in here. Lovingly run by a mother-daughter team and conveniently located near the main plaza, this nine-room boutique guesthouse has spacious rooms, breezy patios, a grassy garden with a beautiful pool, a lovely continental breakfast, and a private silver workshop and museum where you can learn about silverware-making.
Antigua CasonaGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02325-15-416030; www.antiguacasona.com; Segundo Sombra 495; d from US$112; aWs)
A wonderful place to stay in Areco, this restored traditional home offers five high-ceilinged rooms with wooden floors; all are set around covered tile hallways and leafy patios. There's a communal parrilla (grill), should you be tempted to grill your own steak, and a small but picturesque swimming pool set in a brick-lined courtyard.
Patio de MorenoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02326-455197; www.patiodemoreno.com; Moreno 251; d US$165-215; aWs)
This chic hotel looks traditional on the outside, but step through the doors to enter a bright, contemporary space with a successful blend of old and new furnishings, a well-stocked bar and a gorgeous leafy garden and plunge pool. The spacious rooms have king-sized beds; some have double rain showers. A serenely relaxing place to stay.
HOME ON THE RANGE
One of the best ways to spend a few days in the region – and soak up a bit of traditional gaucho culture while remaining within easy reach of Buenos Aires – is to visit an estancia (ranch). Once the private homes of wealthy landowners, many of the province's grandest mansions are now open to the public. Choose between a día de campo (country day; an access pass to the ranch that typically includes an elaborate lunch and afternoon tea, plus horseback riding and other outdoor activities) or stay for a night or two.
Upscale Estancia El Ombú de Areco ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02326-492080, in Buenos Aires 011-4737-0436; www.estanciaelombu.com; RP31, Cuartel VI, Villa Lía; día de campo US$100, s/d incl full board US$325/410; aWs) is a 300-hectare ranch with a gorgeous colonial mansion that dates from 1880. It's named after the massive ombú (Phytolacca dioica) tree casting shade over the gardens. At El Ombú, it's old-fashioned hospitality all the way. In addition to horseback riding, you can watch (and even take part in) rounding up cattle herds. The estancia also provides complimentary bicycles, or you can just relax in the gardens or linger over an alfresco lunch or tea. It's located about 20km outside of San Antonio de Areco.
A slightly more affordable option – and one that's also, conveniently, closer to town – is Estancia La Cinacina ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %02326-452045; www.lacinacina.com.ar; Zerboni & Martinez; d from US$170; aWs). With thematic gaucho shows, the estancia is on the touristy side, but it's popular with travelers.
Several other estancias in the area offer similar experiences. Check www.sanantoniodeareco.com/donde-dormir/estancias for a full list. Private transfers directly from Buenos Aires to most estancias are available for an extra charge. Another option is Areco Bus, a shuttle that offers transportation from Buenos Aires.
Colonia
Explore
On the east bank of the Río de la Plata, 180km west of Montevideo, but only 50km from Buenos Aires by ferry, Colonia is an irresistibly picturesque Uruguayan town enshrined as a Unesco World Heritage site. Its Barrio Histórico, an irregular colonial-era nucleus of narrow cobbled streets, occupies a small peninsula jutting into the river. Pretty rows of sycamores offer protection from the summer heat, and the riverfront is a venue for spectacular sunsets (it's a Uruguayan custom to applaud the setting sun). Colonia’s charm and its proximity to Buenos Aires draw thousands of Argentine visitors; on weekends, especially in summer, prices rise and it can be difficult to find a room.
The Best...
ASight Faro
APlace to Eat Charco Bistró
APlace to Drink El Drugstore
Top Tip
To avoid the crowds and more expensive accommodations prices, consider visiting Colonia midweek. If you want US dollars, use ATMs in Uruguay – those in Argentina do not give them out.
Getting There & Away
ABoat Buquebus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4316-6530; www.buquebus.com; Av Antártida Argentina 821; g92, 106) runs three or more fast boats daily between Buenos Aires and Colonia. The same company owns Seacat ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4314-5100; www.seacatcolonia.com; Av Antártida Argentina 821; bLínea B Alem), which runs less frequent but more affordable high-speed ferry services. Crossings take one hour. The most economical service is offered by Colonia Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4317-4100; www.coloniaexpress.com; Av Don Pedro de Mendoza 330; h9am-8pm; g130, 8, 86), which runs three fast ferries a day (1¼ hours). Immigration for both countries is handled at the port before boarding.
Getting Around
Walking is enjoyable in compact Colonia, but motor scooters, bicycles and gas-powered buggies are popular alternatives. Thrifty ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4522-2939; www.thrifty.com.uy; Av General Flores 172; bicycle/scooter/golf cart per hr US$6/12/18, per 12hr US$18/30/60; h9am-8pm) rents ever
ything from high-quality bikes to scooters to golf carts.
Local COTUC buses go to the beaches and bullring at Real de San Carlos (UR$19) from along Av General Flores.
Need to know
Area Code 452 ALocation 50km east of Buenos Aires by ferry.
A Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4522-8506; www.coloniaturismo.com; Manuel Lobo 224; h9am-6pm)
Colonia
1Sights
1Archivo RegionalB3
2Casa NacarelloB4
3Convento de San FranciscoB4
4FaroB4
5Museo del AzulejoA3
6Museo EspañolB2
7Museo IndígenaB2
8Museo MunicipalB3
9Museo PortuguésB4
Eating & Drinking
10Buen SuspiroB4
11Charco BistróB4
12El DrugstoreB3
13La Taza de TéE3
14Lentas MaravillasA2
15Los FarolitosC3
4Sleeping
16Colonia SuiteE3
17El Viajero HostelD3
18La Posadita de la PlazaB3
1Sights
A single UR$50 ticket covers admission to Colonia’s eight historical museums. All keep the same hours, but closing day varies by museum. Tickets are sold at Museo Municipal.
Casa NacarelloMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4523-1237; www.museoscolonia.com.uy; Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo 67; admission incl in historical museums ticket UR$50; h11:15am-4:45pm Wed-Mon)
One of the prettiest colonial homes in town, with period furniture, thick whitewashed walls, wavy glass and original lintels (duck if you’re tall!).
Museo PortuguésMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4523-1237; www.museoscolonia.com.uy; Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo 180; admission incl in historical museums ticket UR$50; h11:15am-4:45pm Sat-Tue & Thu)
In this beautiful old house, you’ll find Portuguese relics including porcelain, furniture, maps, Manuel Lobo’s family tree and the old stone shield that once adorned the Portón de Campo.
Museo MunicipalMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4522-7031; www.museoscolonia.com.uy; Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo 77; admission incl in historical museums ticket UR$50; h11:15am-4:45pm Wed-Mon)
Houses an eclectic collection of treasures including a whale skeleton, a re-creation of a colonial drawing room, historical timelines and a scale model of Colonia (c 1762).
Museo EspañolMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4523-1237; www.museoscolonia.com.uy; San José 164; admission incl in historical museums ticket UR$50; h11:15am-4:45pm Fri-Mon & Wed)
Scheduled to reopen in 2017 after a long period of restoration, this museum has a varied collection of Spanish artifacts, including colonial pottery, engravings, clothing and maps.
Museo IndígenaMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4523-1237; www.museoscolonia.com.uy; cnr Del Comercio & Av General Flores; admission incl in historical museums ticket UR$50; h11:15am-4:45pm Fri-Sun, Tue & Wed)
Houses Roberto Banchero’s personal collection of Charrúa stone tools, exhibits on indigenous history, and an amusing map upstairs showing how many European countries could fit inside Uruguay’s borders (it’s at least six!).
Museo PaleontológicoMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %4523-1237; www.museoscolonia.com.uy; José Roger Balet, Real de San Carlos; admission incl in historical museums ticket UR$50; h11:15am-4:45pm Thu-Sun)
This two-room museum displays glyptodon shells, bones and other locally excavated finds from the private collection of self-taught paleontologist Armando Calcaterra.
Museo del AzulejoMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4523-1237; www.museoscolonia.com.uy; cnr Misiones de los Tapes & Paseo de San Gabriel; admission incl in historical museums ticket UR$50; h11:15am-4:45pm Sun-Tue & Thu)
This dinky 17th-century stone house has a sampling of French, Catalan and Neapolitan tilework.
Archivo RegionalMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4523-1237; www.museoscolonia.com.uy; Misiones de los Tapes 115; admission incl in historical museums ticket UR$50; h11:15am-4:45pm Mon-Fri)
On the northwest edge of Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo, the tiny Archivo Regional contains historical documents along with pottery and glass excavated from the 18th-century Casa de los Gobernadores nearby.
FaroLIGHTHOUSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; UR$25; h10am-1pm & 2:30pm-sunset)
One of the town’s most prominent landmarks, Colonia’s 19th-century working lighthouse provides an excellent view of the old town and the Río de la Plata. It stands within the ruins of the 17th-century Convento de San Francisco ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo), just off the southwest corner of Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo.
BARRIO HISTóRICO
Colonia’s Barrio Histórico is filled with visual delights. Picturesque spots for wandering include the roughly cobbled 18th-century Calle de los Suspiros (Street of Sighs), lined with tile-and-stucco colonial houses, the Paseo de San Gabriel, on the western riverfront, the Puerto Viejo (Old Port) and the historic center's two main squares: sprawling Plaza Mayor 25 de Mayo and shady Plaza de Armas (the latter is also known as Plaza Manuel Lobo).
The tourist office outside Colonia's old-town gate organizes good walking tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %099-379167; [email protected]; tour per person in Spanish/other languages UR$150/200) led by local guides. Spanish-language tours leave at 11am and 3pm daily year-round. Tours in other languages (English, French, Italian and Portuguese) can be arranged on request for a minimum of two people; ask at the tourist office.
5Eating & Drinking
Los FarolitosFAST FOOD$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Av General Flores 272; sandwiches UR$40-210; h12:30pm-1am)
Renowned for its chivitos (a local specialty – a fillet of beef sandwich with cheese, tomatoes, bacon, olives and mayonnaise), this simple streetside stand also sells other low-cost, fast-food treats including hot dogs and milanesas (breaded cutlets).
Buen SuspiroURUGUAYAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4522-6160; www.buensuspiro.com; Calle de los Suspiros 92; picadas for 2 UR$320-500; h11am-midnight)
Duck under the wood beams into this cozy spot specializing in picadas (sharing boards of cheese and cold cuts). Sample local wines by the bottle or glass, accompanied by spinach and leek tarts, ricotta-and-walnut 'truffles,' local cheese, sausage, soups and salads. Reserve ahead for a fireside table in winter, or while away a summer afternoon on the intimate back patio.
Lentas MaravillasINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4522-0636; [email protected]; Santa Rita 61; mains UR$250-340; h1:30-6:30pm Thu, Fri & Mon, to 7:30pm Sat & Sun)
Cozy as a friend’s home, this is an agreeable spot to kick back with tea and cookies, or savor a homemade lemonade accompanied by soup, sandwiches or goulash. Flip through an art book from owner Maggie Molnar’s personal library and enjoy the river views, either from the cozy upstairs living room or the chairs on the grassy lawn below.
oCharco BistróINTERNATIONAL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4523-5000; charcohotel.com; San Pedro 116; mains UR$320-650; h8am-11pm)
Outstanding both for its location and its food, this bright and airy eatery with a contemporary aesthetic is tucked down a cobbled side street with a spacious deck overlooking the Río de la Plata's grassy shoreline. Tantalizing treats such as steak with chimichurri, grilled salmon and homemade ravioli come complemented by superb mixed drinks and ample glasses of local tannat wine.
El DrugstoreBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Portugal 174; hnoon-midnight)
Touristy but fun, this lively corner place has polka-dot tablecloths, a vividly colored interior, outdoor seating with perfect views of Plaza de Armas, and two vintage cars on the cobblestones doubling as romantic dining nooks. Half of the 24-page menu is devoted to drinks; the other half to so-so tapas and international fare. There’s frequent live guitar music.
4Sleeping
Colonia has some great options for an overnight stay, though bear in
mind that many hotels charge higher rates Friday through Sunday. Book in advance for summer weekends.
El Viajero HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4522-2683; www.elviajerohostels.com; Washington Barbot 164; dm US$17-19, s/d US$40/65; aiW)
With bike rental, a bar for guests and air-con in all rooms, this hostel is brighter, fancier and somewhat cozier than the competition, and the location two blocks east of Plaza de Armas couldn’t be better.
oLa Posadita de la PlazaB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %098-4523-0502; www.posaditadelaplaza.com; Misiones de los Tapes 177; s/d from US$130/140)
At this whimsical guesthouse on Colonia's most historical square, friendly Brazilian photographer Eduardo has poured his creative genius into building a magical space resembling a life-sized Joseph Cornell collage. Three guest rooms, an interior patio-deck with pretty old-town perspectives, and a cozy library-lounge are all decorated with found objects from Eduardo's world travels. Ample breakfasts feature freshly squeezed orange juice.
oColonia SuiteB&B$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %098-618966; www.facebook.com/coloniasuite; Lavalleja 169; r US$125-190; aW)
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 26
