oLe Petit PalaisB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4962-4834; www.lepetitpalais-buenosaires.com; Gorriti 3574; s/d from US$70/80; aW; bLínea D Agüero)
Small but charming, this French-run B&B offers just five simple but pleasant rooms, all with private bathroom. The highlight is the pretty little terrace on the 2nd floor, where possibly BA’s best breakfast is served in warm weather – fresh yogurt, jams and breads (all homemade), along with eggs, medialunas and cereals. Friendly cats on premises.
oMagnolia HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4867-4900; http://magnoliahotelboutique.com/palermo-buenosaires/; Julián Álvarez 1746; r US$100-160; aiW; bLínea D Scalabrini Ortiz)
This classy boutique hotel is in a gorgeously restored old house. Its eight impeccably groomed rooms are bathed in muted colors and fitted with elegant furniture; some have a patio or balcony. Other pluses include a welcome drink and a little patio for breakfast.
Duque HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-0312; www.duquehotel.com; Guatemala 4364; d US$125-175; aiWs; bLínea D Scalabrini Ortiz)
All 14 rooms at this charming boutique hotel are well designed, though some can be a bit small – go for a superior or deluxe if you need more space. Pluses include a large Jacuzzi, sauna, basement spa, buffet breakfast, afternoon tea with pastries and a great little backyard garden with a tiny pool. Online discounts available.
Hotel ClasicoHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4773-2353; www.hotelclasico.com; Costa Rica 5480; r US$120-170; aW; bLínea D Palermo)
Attractive hotel with 33 tasteful ‘classic’ rooms, some with tiny balconies but all with wood floors, modern conveniences and earthy color schemes; a local photographer was specially commissioned to take the photos of BA that adorn the walls. Go for the penthouse with terrace for something special. Creative elevator with one glass wall facing an artsy mural.
The 5th FloorB&B$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4827-0366; www.the5thfloorba.com; near Vidt & Santa Fe; r US$90-170; ai; bLínea D Scalabrini Ortiz)
This upscale B&B offers six elegant rooms, two with private balcony. All are tastefully decorated with art-deco furniture and modern amenities. The common living room is great for chatting with the English owner, a polo enthusiast, and there’s also a pleasant back patio with lovely tile details. Excellent breakfast. Address given upon reservation; three-night minimum stay.
PalermitanoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4897-2100; www.palermitano.biz; Uriarte 1648; r US$100-180; aWs; g39, 55)
Located in the middle of Palermo’s nightlife, this boutique hotel has 16 tastefully decorated, contemporary rooms. In the summer, the rooftop terrace bar with its small pool is the perfect place for an early evening cocktail. A branch of the excellent Peruvian restaurant Sipan is on the ground floor; meals can be ordered as room service.
Livian GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4862-8841; www.livianguesthouse.com; Palestina 1184; r US$75-94; iW; g140, 109)
Located in an attractive old building in a hip section of Palermo is this artsy guesthouse, which used to be the owner Lisandra's family home. There are 10 colorful rooms on offer, two with their own semi-private terrace and most with air-con and private bathroom. There are pleasant living-room spaces, a pretty back garden, communal deck and rental bikes.
Infinito HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-2070-2626; www.infinitohotel.com; Arenales 3689; r US$70-90, ste US$120-150; aiW; bLínea D Scalabrini Ortiz)
Starting at its small lobby cafe-reception, this hotel exudes a certain hipness. Rooms are small but good, with flat-screen TVs, fridges, wooden floors and a purple color scheme, and there’s a Jacuzzi on the sunny rooftop terrace. An effort is made to be ecologically conscious, mostly by recycling. Located near the parks but still within walking distance of Palermo’s nightlife.
Rendezvous HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-3964-5222; www.rendezvoushotel.com.ar; Bonpland 1484; r from US$135; aiW; g111, 140, 39)
This boutique hotel is located in a beautiful four-story French-style building. Each of the 11 rooms is unique, styled with either antique or modern furnishings and bright colors; two have private balcony and outdoor Jacuzzi. There's a tiny rooftop deck and cute patio at the entrance.
AbodeGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4774-3331; www.abodebuenosaires.com; Costa Rica 5193; d/tr from US$100/150; aiW; bLínea D Palermo)
A very intimate and homey guesthouse. Each of the four simple yet comfortable rooms comes with its own bathroom, and the largest has a balcony. By reservation only; no walk-ins.
Vain Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4776-8246; www.vainuniverse.com; Thames 2226; r US$145-230; aiW; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
Fifteen elegant rooms, most with high ceilings and wooden floors, can be found at this nicely renovated building. All are modern in that white, minimalist way, with sofas and small desks. The highlight is the wonderfully airy, multilevel living room with attached wooden-decked terrace and Jacuzzi. Discounts available online.
Cabrera GardenGUESTHOUSE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4777-7668; www.cabreragarden.com; José Antonio Cabrera 5855; r US$145-250; aiWs; g140, 111, 93)
One of BA’s loveliest places to stay is this three-room B&B run by a Polish-German gay couple. The remodeled 1920s building has a beautiful grassy garden with small patio and pool, and there’s a wonderful living room in which to hang out. The spacious rooms are very comfortable, with rug-covered wooden floors, and are decorated with interesting artwork. Reserve ahead.
Mine HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4832-1100; www.minehotel.com; Gorriti 4770; d US$236-315; aiWs; g140, 110, 55)S
This hip boutique hotel offers 20 good-sized rooms; some come with Jacuzzi and balcony and all have a desk and natural decor touches. Get one overlooking the highlight of the hotel: the peaceful backyard with a small wading pool. There’s a small bistro for the buffet breakfast. Discounted rates available online.
Miravida SohoGUESTHOUSE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4774-6433; www.miravidasoho.com; Darregueyra 2050; r US$250-290; aiW; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
This gorgeous guesthouse comes with six elegant rooms, one with a private terrace. There’s a wine cellar, bar-lounge area for evening wine tastings, a small and relaxing patio, and even an elevator. It serves good, full breakfasts; reserve ahead.
CasaSurHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4770-9452; http://casasurhotel.com/palermo/; Costa Rica 6032; r US$200-320; s; bLínea D Ministro Carranza)
Beginning with its airy, contemporary lobby fitted with oversized bookshelves, the CasaSur is a stylish place to stay. The elegant rooms have graphic wallpaper and a monochrome color scheme; those on floors one to four have balconies. There's a small outdoor pool, spa and gym and – best of all – a spacious roof terrace with great views.
BA SohotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4831-1844; www.basohotel.com; Paraguay 4485; r US$160-200; aiWs; bLínea D Plaza Italia)
This 33-room boutique hotel is a safe bet, with good service and an attached restaurant. The rooms are spacious and come with wooden floors, desk, large balconies, double-paned windows, Jacuzzi tubs and bathroom mirrors that don't fog (it's important!). There's also a tiny pool and Jacuzzi on the roof terrace. Reserve ahead for discounts.
248 FinisterraBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4773-0901; www.248finisterra.com; Av Báez 248; r US$120-200; aiW; bLínea D Ministro Carranza)
Smack in the middle of Las Cañitas’ nightlife strip lies this elegant, Zen-like boutique hotel. There are 11 minimalist rooms, all beautifully contemporary, though the smallest are a bit tight. There's a dining area for breakfast and a small grassy garden in back, but the highlight has to be the rooftop terrace, with wooden lounges and a Jac
uzzi. Reserve ahead.
4South of Palermo
With the popularity of Palermo raising property values and rents, more places to stay have popped up in the neighborhoods immediately to the south. This large area is a good choice if you don’t mind being a bit further from the main sights (but not too far away); public transportation is good.
Chill HouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4861-6175; www.chillhouse.com.ar; Agüero 781; s/d from US$35/48; iW; bLínea B Carlos Gardel)
This relaxed and friendly guesthouse is in a remodeled old house with high ceilings and a rustic artsy style, and has 10 private rooms (number 6, with a balcony and air-con, is especially nice). There’s also an awesome rooftop terrace where asados take place, as well as occasional live music.
Well-located close to public transportation and within easy reach of Palermo and the Center.
Pop HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4776-6900; www.pophotelsbuenosaires.com; Juan Ramírez de Velasco 793; r US$90-130; aW; bLínea B Malabia)
Located near Villa Crespo's outlet stores is this bright and colorful hotel. Halls are carpeted and rooms are modern and comfy, all with fridge and flat-screen TV; the ones on the 4th floor are larger and have balconies. Breakfast not included. Rates vary widely; prepay for discounts that can put the hotel into the budget category.
Racó de Buenos AiresBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-3530-6075; Yapeyú 271; d/ste from US$90/170; aiW; bLínea A Castro Barros)
This Italian-designed building in a non-touristy neighborhood offers 12 lovely rooms with different styling, from virgin white classic to subdued masculine to animal print. All are spacious and have wooden floors, high ceilings and modern amenities. There’s a small plant-strewn patio for breakfast. Located in the Almagro neighborhood, just three blocks from the Subte.
Understand Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires Today
Mauricio Macri leads, a culinary and craft beer culture continues to evolve and the city becomes more 'green' – is Buenos Aires on the up?
History
Spanish colonialism, fierce independence, the golden years and a military dictatorship – and all that before the roller-coaster economic years.
Music
Buenos Aires isn't all about tango. The city is also represented by rock, folk, jazz and electronica.
Literature & Cinema
Over the last century, Argentina has produced many famous writers (think Jorge Luis Borges), along with two Oscar-winning movies.
Art & Architecture
Art runs rampant in Buenos Aires, from sophisticated street graffiti to abstract installations. And BA's gorgeous European and modern architecture often surprises newcomers.
Buenos Aires Today
Whether life in Buenos Aires is on the up or not depends on who you ask. In 2015 a new president was sworn in after 12 years under the Kirchners, signaling a significant shift to the political center. For many, Mauricio Macri's victory was a welcome change; others were distraught at the defeat of Kirchnerismo. And while homelessness and unemployment in the capital are on the increase, there is a feeling of optimism among many. After all, porteños are nothing if not resilient.
Best on Film
La historia oficial (The Official Story; 1985) Oscar-winning film on the military dictatorship.
Nueve reinas (Nine Queens; 2000) Two con men chasing the big score.
El secreto de sus ojos (The Secret in Their Eyes; 2009) 2010 Oscar-winning thriller.
Pizza, birra, faso (Pizza, Beer, Cigarettes; 1998) Four BA gangster youths try to survive on the city streets.
Esperando la Carroza (Waiting for the Hearse; 1985) Cult comedy about a porteña family.
Best in Print
Kiss of the Spider Woman (Manuel Puig; 1976) Two prisoners and their developing relationship in a Buenos Aires prison.
The Tango Singer (Tomás Eloy Martínez; 2006) An American graduate student travels to Buenos Aires and tracks down a legendary tango singer.
The Aleph (Jorge Luis Borges; 1974) Collection of short stories set in the author's home city.
And the Money Kept Rolling In (and Out) (Paul Blustein; 2005) How the IMF helped bankrupt Argentina.
On Heroes and Tombs (Ernesto Sábato; 1961) A complex plunge into Buenos Aires' society, aristocracy and family dynamics in the 1950s.
Enter Macri
Since narrowly winning the 2015 presidential election as the candidate for Cambiemos (Let's Change'), a coalition of three political parties, Mauricio Macri has set about implementing his plans to encourage foreign investment, a pro-business, free-market reform stance that sets him apart from his leftist, pro-government predecessor.
Macri had been Buenos Aires' mayor since 2007 and was a former president of the Boca Juniors soccer club. His victory came on the back of his promise to improve international relations and loosen economic controls; for many porteños, it was Macri's pledge to relax restrictions on the buying of US dollars that decided their vote. President Obama's visit to Buenos Aires in March 2016 made him the first US president to hold high-level talks with an Argentine leader for 20 years, and was a great boost for Macri less than six months into his presidential term.
But already, porteños are feeling the pinch of Macri's policies, particularly the end of government subsidies of utility bills. Sky-rocketing heat and electricity bills, and rising unemployment, have dampened any optimism surrounding the new political order, and only time will tell if Argentina's new president can kick-start the sluggish economy. Argentina's problems of high inflation and economic instability may not be over just yet.
A Taste of the Future
Despite a discouraging economy and a downturn in tourism in the last few years, Buenos Aires' culinary culture continues to evolve. Intrepid young chefs are providing creative twists to the restaurant scene with relatively new-to-BA concepts such as molecular gastronomy. Chefs Gonzalo Aramburu at Aramburu and Soledad Nardelli at Chila are shaking up the BA food scene with their experimental cooking, while the likes of Leo Lanussol and Augusto Mayer at Proper and Mariano Ramón at Gran Dabbang offer a fresh approach to cooking at more accessible prices.
Buenos Aires was named the 2017 Ibero-American Capital of Gastronomy, prompting the city government to stage a series of events throughout the year. Add to that a few new exciting food fairs, such as the Feria Masticar ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.feriamasticar.com.ar; cnr Concepción Arenal & Conde; admission AR$80, dishes AR$50-80; hMay; g39, 140, 168), and BA is well on its way to becoming a foodie destination.
Meanwhile, BA has embraced craft beer with an almost revolutionary fervor, with a new bar opening practically every week. There's a real sense of camaraderie among local brewers, who get together to exchange tips, and it shows – the IPAs, golden ales and Scotch they produce are improving all the time.
Going Green
Buenos Aires' public transportation is evolving. The final implementation of the SUBE card meant that obtaining enough coins for the bus was no longer a source of friction and stress in porteños' daily lives (really – it was that bad). And new bus-only Metrobus lanes down big avenues (including 9 de Julio and Juan B Justo) have eased traffic somewhat, though people continue to purchase private cars as an investment against inflation (nobody trusts banks with their savings any more). Congestion in the Center has been relieved by the pedestrianization of more than 100 blocks; making walking around the area a decidedly more pleasant experience. Bicycle use has also increased, as the bike-lane system keeps expanding, and the city's free bike-share program has been deemed a success. In 2014, these efforts were rewarded when Buenos Aires won the Sustainable Transport Award.
Finally, Buenos Aires is at last making serious efforts at recycling its waste. The Ciudad Verde campaign educates porteños on separating waste. Thirty Punto Verdes (green stations) are located in the city's parks and plazas where recyclable materials are collected and information is distributed.
History
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Like all Latin American countries, Argentina has a tumultuous history, one tainted by periods of despotic rule, corruption and hard times. But its history is also illustrious, the story of a country that fought off Spanish colonial rule and was once among the world’s economic powerhouses. It’s a country that gave birth to international icons such as the gaucho, Eva Perón and Che Guevara. Understanding Argentina’s past is paramount to understanding its present and, most importantly, to understanding Argentines themselves.
The Spanish Arrive
Although the banks of the Río de la Plata had been populated for tens of thousands of years by nomadic hunter-gatherers, the first attempt at establishing a permanent settlement was made by Spanish aristocrat Pedro de Mendoza in 1536. His verbose name for the outpost, Puerto Nuestra Señora Santa María del Buen Aire (Port Our Lady Saint Mary of the Good Wind) was matched only by his extravagant expedition of 16 ships and nearly 1600 men – almost three times the size of Hernán Cortés’ forces that conquered the Aztecs. In spite of his resources and planning, Mendoza unfortunately arrived too late in the season to plant adequate crops. The Spanish soon found themselves short on food and in typical colonialist fashion tried to bully the local Querandí indigenous groups into feeding them. A bitter fight and four years of struggle ensued, which led to such an acute shortage of supplies that some of the Spanish resorted to cannibalism. Mendoza himself fled back to Spain, while a detachment of troops who were left behind retreated upriver to Asunción (now the capital of Paraguay).
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 29
