Hospitals
Highly regarded hospitals include Hospital Italiano ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4959-0200; www.hospitalitaliano.org.ar; Juan D Perón 4190; bLínea B Medrano), Hospital Alemán ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4827-7000; www.hospitalaleman.org.ar; Pueyrredón 1640; happointments 8am-8pm Mon-Fri; bLínea D Pueyrredón) and Hospital Británico ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4309-6400; www.hospitalbritanico.org.ar; Perdriel 74; g28, 50, 59). Another popular medical facility is Swiss Medical ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0810-333-8876; www.swissmedicalcenter.com.ar; Av Pueyrredón 1441; hclinic 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, emergency 24hr; bLínea D Pueyrredón), with various branches around town.
Dentists
Dental Argentina ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4828-0821; www.dental-argentina.com.ar; Laprida 1621, 2B; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri; bLínea D Agüero) provides modern facilities and good dental services with English-speaking professionals.
Pharmacies
Pharmacies are common in Buenos Aires. The biggest chain is Farmacity ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.farmacity.com; Av de Mayo 602; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat; bLínea A Perú), with dozens of branches throughout the city; they’re modern, bright and well-stocked with sundries. They have a prescription counter and some are open 24 hours. It’s hard to miss their blue-and-orange color theme.
PRACTICALITIES
ASmoking Banned in most public spaces such as restaurants, cafes, bars and buses.
AWeights & Measures Argentina uses the metric system.
Media
ANewspapers Popular newspapers include leftist Página 12 (www.pagina12.com.ar), right-leaning Clarín (www.clarin.com) and La Nación (www.lanacion.com.ar).
ABuenos Aires Herald (www.buenosairesherald.com) is the city's English-language newspaper, now published just once a week.
AThe Bubble (www.thebubble.com) is a useful local English-language news website.
Money
Carrying cash and an ATM card is best; credit cards are also widely accepted.
ATMs
ATMs (cajeros automáticos) are everywhere in BA and are the handiest way to get money; they can also be used for cash advances on major credit cards. There’s often an English-translation option if you don’t read Spanish.
There may be limits per withdrawal, but you may be able to withdraw several times per day – just beware of per-transaction fees. A fee is charged on ATM transactions by the local bank (not including charges by your home bank, which are extra). Note that this is a per transaction fee, so consider taking out your maximum allowed.
Cash
Notes come in denominations of two, five, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 pesos. One peso equals 100 centavos; coins come in denominations of five, 10, 25 and 50 centavos, as well as one and two pesos. The $ sign in front of a price is usually used to signify pesos.
Don’t be dismayed if you receive dirty and hopelessly tattered banknotes; they will still be accepted everywhere. Some banks refuse worn or defaced US dollars, however, so make sure you arrive in Buenos Aires with pristine bills.
Counterfeiting of both local and US bills has become something of a problem in recent years, and merchants are very careful when accepting large denominations. You should be, too; look for a clear watermark or running thread on the largest bills, and be especially careful when receiving change in dark nightclubs or taxis.
US dollars are accepted by many tourist-oriented businesses, but you should also carry some pesos.
Credit Cards
Many tourist services, larger stores, hotels and restaurants take credit cards such as Visa and MasterCard, especially for big purchases. Be aware, however, that some businesses add a recargo (surcharge) of up to 10% to credit-card purchases; ask ahead of time. Some lower-end hotels and private businesses will not accept credit cards, and tips can’t usually be added to credit-card bills at restaurants. Many places will give you a small discount if you pay in cash, rather than use a credit card.
The following local representatives can help you replace lost or stolen cards:
American Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4310-3000; Arenales 707; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C San Martín)
MasterCard ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0800-444-5220)
Visa (%011-4379-3333)
Traveler's Checks
Traveler’s checks are very impractical in Argentina, and even in BA it’s very hard to change them. Outside BA it’s almost impossible to change traveler’s checks. If you do decide to bring some, get them in US dollars.
The Blue Market
In December 2015 currency controls were abolished, decreasing demand for US dollars on Argentina's 'blue' (ie black) market, but you'll still hear people on Buenos Aires' Florida pedestrian strip calling out 'cambio, cambio, cambio.' These folks are best avoided.
Tipping
Bartenders Usually not expected.
Delivery persons A small bill.
Hotel cleaning staff A few pesos per day (only at upscale hotels).
Hotel porters A small bill.
Restaurant servers 10%; 15% for fine restaurants with great service.
Spas 15%
Taxi drivers No tip unless they help with luggage; many people round up to nearest peso.
Tour guides 10% to 15%
LOCAL ETIQUETTE
AGreetings Friends – including two men – always greet each other with a kiss on the cheek; if joining a small group, each person should be greeted and kissed. The gesture is repeated when saying goodbye.
ALines People in Buenos Aires are generally respectful of queues and you'll see orderly lines at bus stops. It's common to take a number in shops and doctors and wait to be called. In supermarkets and shops, people with babies and the elderly are often ushered to the front of the line.
ASeats It's common for the young and fit to cede their seats on public transport to the elderly, children, pregnant women or anyone less able to stand.
Opening Hours
There are always exceptions, but the following are general opening hours:
Banks 8am to 3pm or 4pm Monday to Friday; some open till 1am Saturday.
Bars 8pm or 9pm to between 4am and 6am nightly (downtown, some open and close earlier).
Cafes 7am to midnight or much later; open daily.
Clubs 1am to 2am to between 6am and 8am Friday and Saturday.
Office business hours 8am to 5pm.
Post offices 8am to 6pm Monday to Friday, 9am to 1pm Saturday.
Restaurants Noon to 3:30pm, 8pm-midnight or 1am (later on weekends).
Shops 9am or 10am to 8pm or 9pm Monday to Saturday.
Post
The more-or-less reliable Correo Argentino (www.correoargentino.com.ar) is the government postal service, with numerous branches scattered throughout BA. Essential overseas mail should be sent certificado (registered). For international parcels weighing over 2kg, take a copy of your passport and go to the Correo Internacional ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4891-9191; www.correoargentino.com.ar; Av Antártida Argentina 1100; h9am-3:30pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C Retiro) near the Retiro bus station. Check the website for all prices.
If a package is being sent to you, expect to wait awhile for it to turn up within the system (or to receive notice of its arrival). Unless you have a permanent address, your parcel will likely end up at the Correo Internacional. To collect the package you’ll have to wait – first to get it and then to have it checked by customs. There might also be a small holding fee, charged per day. Don’t expect any valuables to make it through.
Privately run international and national services are available including Federal Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0810-333-3339; www.fedex.com; Maipú 753, Microcentro; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C Lavalle) and DHL International ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0810-122-3345; www.dhl.com.ar; Av Córdoba 783; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C Lavalle). OCA ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4311-5305; www.oca.com.ar; Viamonte 526; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri; bLínea C Lavalle) and Andreani ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0810-122-1111; www.andreani.com.ar; Av Belgrano 1211; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat; bLínea C Moreno) are good for domestic packages; both have many locations around town.
; Public Holidays
Government offices and businesses are closed on the numerous national holidays.
Public-transportation options are more limited on holidays, when you should reserve tickets in advance.
January 1 Año Nuevo; New Year’s Day
February or March Carnaval – dates vary; a Monday and Tuesday become holidays.
March 24 Día de la Memoria; anniversary of the military coup of 1976 and the subsequent dictatorship.
March/April Semana Santa (Easter week) – dates vary; most businesses close on Good Thursday and Good Friday; major travel week.
April 2 Día de las Malvinas; honors the fallen Argentine soldiers from the Islas Malvinas (Falkland Islands) war in 1829.
May 1 Día del Trabajor; Labor Day
May 25 Día de la Revolución de Mayo; commemorates the 1810 revolution against Spain.
June 20 Día de la Bandera (Flag Day); anniversary of death of Manuel Belgrano, creator of Argentina’s flag and military leader.
July 9 Día de la Independencia; Independence Day
August (third Monday) Día del Libertador San Martín; marks the anniversary of José de San Martín’s death (1778–1850).
October (second Monday) Día del Respeto a la Diversidad Cultural; a day to respect cultural diversity.
November (fourth Monday) Día de la Soberanía Nacional; day of national sovereignty.
December 8 Día de la Concepción Inmaculada; celebrates the immaculate conception of the Virgin Mary.
December 25 Navidad; Christmas Day
Note that Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve are treated as semi-holidays, and you will find some businesses closed for the latter half of those days.
Safe Travel
Buenos Aires is generally pretty safe and you can comfortably walk around at all hours of the night in many places, even as a lone woman. Some areas where you should be careful at night, however, are around Constitución’s train station, the eastern border of San Telmo, some parts of Once and La Boca – where, outside tourist streets, you should be careful even during the day. Using your head is good advice anywhere: don’t flash any wealth (including expensive jewelry), always be aware of your surroundings and look like you know exactly where you’re going (even if you don’t).
Petty Crime
ALike all big cities, BA has its share of problems. As a tourist you’re much more likely to be a target of petty crimes such as pickpocketing and bag-snatching than armed robbery or kidnapping.
ABe careful on crowded buses, on the Subte and at busy ferias (street markets). Don’t put your bag down without your foot through the strap (especially at sidewalk cafes), and even then keep a close eye on it.
ABe especially careful at Retiro bus station.
AThe Tourist Police can provide interpreters and help victims of robberies.
Police
APolice are generally helpful and courteous to tourists, though you’re hardly likely to get involved with them if you follow the law.
AIf you feel you're being patted down for a bribe (most often if you're driving), you can respond by tactfully paying up or asking the officer to accompany you to the police station to take care of it. The latter will likely cause the officer to drop it. Pretending you don't understand Spanish may also frustrate a potential bribe.
Pickets & Protests
Street protests have become part of daily life in Buenos Aires, especially around Plaza de Mayo and Av 9 de Julio. Generally these have little effect on tourists other than blocking traffic and making it difficult to see the sights.
Taxes & Refunds
One of Argentina’s primary state revenue earners is the 21% value-added tax known as the Impuesto de Valor Agregado (IVA), which is included in the stated price of goods. Under limited circumstances, foreign visitors may obtain IVA refunds on purchases of Argentine products upon departing the country. A ‘Tax Free’ window decal (in English) identifies participants in this program, but always check that the shop is part of the tax-free program before making your purchase.
You can obtain tax refunds on purchases of AR$70 or more made at one of these participating stores. To do so, present your passport to the merchant, who will make out an invoice for you. On leaving the country keep the purchased items in your carry-on baggage. A customs official will check them and stamp your paperwork, then tell you where to obtain your refund. Be sure to leave yourself a bit of extra time at the airport to get this done.
In 2016 it was announced that IVA paid on hotel bills using foreign credit cards would also be refunded.
ELECTRONICS WARNING
Buying a smartphone, especially an iPhone, is extremely expensive in Argentina due to import restrictions – and they are not widely available. If you do bring your smartphone, don’t flash it around unnecessarily or leave it unprotected somewhere. This goes for tablets and laptop computers too.
Telephone
Street phones require coins or tarjetas telefónicas (magnetic phone cards available at many kioskos, or small markets). You’ll only be able to speak for a limited time before you get cut off, so carry enough credit.
Toll-free numbers in BA have '0800' before a seven-digit number.
Cell Phones
It's best to bring your own factory unlocked tri- or quad-band GSM cell phone, then buy an inexpensive SIM chip (you’ll get a local number) and credits (or cargo virtual) as needed.
Both SIM chips and credits can be bought at many kioskos or locutorios (small telephone offices); look for the ‘recarga facil’ signs. Many Argentines use this system with their cell phones, and you can buy SIM chips with data for wi-fi access as well. Phone-unlocking services are available; ask around.
You can also buy cell phones that use SIM chips; these usually include some credits for your first batch of calls.
If you plan to travel with an iPhone or other 3G smartphone, prepare yourself – you may need to purchase an international plan to avoid being hit by a huge bill for roaming costs. On the other hand, it’s possible to call internationally for free or very cheaply using a VoIP (Voice over Internet Protocol) system such as Skype. This is a constantly changing field, so do some research before you travel.
Cell-phone numbers in Argentina are always preceded by ’15.' If you’re calling a cellular phone number from a landline, you’ll have to dial 15 first. But if you’re calling a cell phone from another cell phone, you don’t need to dial 15 (at least within the same area code).
When calling cell phones from outside Argentina, dial your country’s international access code, then 54 9 11 and then the eight-digit number, leaving out the 15.
Locutorios
One way to make a local or international phone call is to find a locutorio, a small telephone office with private booths from which you make your calls and then pay at the register. There’s a locutorio on practically every other block in the Center.
When making international calls from locutorios ask about off-peak discount hours, which generally apply after 10pm and on weekends. Making international calls over the internet using Skype is a cheap option; many internet cafes have this system in place.
Phone Codes
The Buenos Aires area code is 011. You will need to dial this when calling BA from outside the city, but you don't need to dial it when calling from within BA.
Time
Argentina is three hours behind GMT and generally does not observe daylight-saving time (though this situation can easily change). Many porteños use the 24-hour clock to differentiate between am and pm.
Toilets
APublic toilets in BA are generally decent and usually stocked with toilet paper (carry some anyway), but soap and towels are rarer.
AIf you’re looking for a bathroom while walking around, note that the largest shopping malls (such as Galerías Pacífico) always have public bathrooms available, but in a pinch you can always walk into a large cafe.
AChanging facilities for babies are not always available.
ASome
may find bidets a novelty; they are those strange shallow, ceramic bowls with knobs and a drain, often accompanying toilets in hotel bathrooms. They are meant for between-shower cleanings of nether regions. Turn knobs slowly, or you may end up spraying yourself or the ceiling.
Tourist Information
Ministerio de Turismo Dispenses information on Buenos Aires but focuses on Argentina as a whole.
There are several tourist offices and kiosks in Buenos Aires. Staff speak English and can provide maps and information about free guided walks and other activities.
Ezeiza airport
Florida
La Boca
Plaza San Martín
Puerto Madero
Recoleta
Retiro
CULTURAL CENTERS
Buenos Aires has good cultural centers offering all sorts of art exhibitions, classes and events. They're listed in the neighborhood chapters. There are also several foreign cultural centers offering language classes, exhibitions, films and workshops.
Alianza FrancesaCULTURAL CENTER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011-4322-0068; www.alianzafrancesa.org.ar; Av Córdoba 946; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; bLínea C Lavalle)
Offers screenings of French films, exhibitions and a number of workshops and courses including French-language classes.
Lonely Planet Buenos Aires Page 35
