2⅛ yards of black print for blocks, borders, sashing, and binding
3¼ yards of fabric for backing
56" x 56" piece of batting
Cutting
All measurements include ¼"-wide seam allowances.
From 4 of the tan charm squares, cut:
4 squares, 2½" x 2½" (16 total)
From the black print, cut:
2 strips, 11" x 42"; crosscut the strips into 24 strips, 2½" x 11"
5 strips, 5½" x 42"; crosscut 1 of the strips into 2 rectangles, 5½" x 10"
1 strip, 4" x 42"; crosscut the strip into 9 squares, 4" x 4"
5 strips, 2½" x 42"
Assembling the Blocks
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of 36 tan charm squares. Pair one tan charm square with one black charm square, right sides together and with the tan square on top. Sew ¼" from both sides of the drawn line. Cut along the drawn line, and then cut perpendicular to the line to yield four pieces; press.
2 Place two pieces right sides together, matching the seams and opposite colors. Sew the long edge. Press and trim the hourglass unit to measure 4" square. Make 36 black and 36 red hourglass units.
3 Arrange four black hourglass units, four red hourglass units, and one black 4" square in three rows of three as shown. Join the units, and then join the rows. Make nine blocks measuring 11" square, including the seam allowances.
Assembling the Quilt
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Lay out three rows of blocks and black 2½" x 11" strips alternating with three rows of black strips and tan 2½" squares as shown in the quilt assembly diagram. Join the units in each row, and then join the rows. The quilt center should measure 40" square.
2 Trim two of the black 5½" x 42" strips to the width of the quilt, which should be 40", and sew them to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press the seam allowances toward the strips. The quilt should measure approximately 40" x 50".
3 Sew a black 5½" x 10" rectangle to one end of each remaining 5½" x 42" strip. Press the seam allowances open. Measure the quilt vertically through the center; it should be 50" long. Trim the two pieced strips to this measurement and sew them to the sides of the quilt; press.
Finishing the Quilt
For more details on quilting and finishing, you can visit ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top; baste the layers together. Hand or machine quilt as desired. The quilt shown was machine quilted with an allover swirl and vine design using tan thread for contrast.
2 Use the black 2½"-wide strips to make the binding and attach it to the quilt.
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from KATHY SCHMITZ
Kathy Schmitz (KathySchmitz.com) can charm the paint off a paintbrush! That’s the secret to how she designs such spectacular prints for her Moda fabric lines.
What charms me most about charm packs is that I hope their charm will rub off on me. I am a bit of a klutz.
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs, are you more likely to use two or three of the same collection or from different collections? Same.
This works like a charm for me every time: Asking my mom to come and help me. This works best if I supply her with desserts.
About those pinked edges, here’s my advice for taking them into account when you sew: Was I supposed to pay attention to them? I guess if I really think about it, I measure from the outside points. Or, ask my mom for help again. Okay, okay, you got me. I just like having my mom around!
Besides a 5" charm-square, my other go-to precut shape is a Layer Cake 10" square. Just the name makes me smile!
If I taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, I’d teach the students to hand quilt (if it’s not a huge quilt). I love that look!
If I had to pick a “lucky” charm out of a charm pack, I’d choose one that has tiny dots on it! I love little dots.
In Charm School, you learn the social graces. But in Quilter’s Charm School you learn it’s okay to be left out. Those little squares that don’t have a home in a project are just the right size for making pincushions. You can NEVER have enough pincushions.
Spring Mosaic by Sandy Gervais
FINISHED QUILT: 49½" x 49½"
FINISHED BLOCK: 13½" x 13½"
CHARM PACKS NEEDED:
Soft shades of yellow, orange, and green are ideal for a quilt that will bring a touch of nature indoors. Construct the quick blocks from charm squares and folded-corner units, and get the most out of the charm packs by using the remaining squares for a coordinating pieced border.
Materials
Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric. Charm squares are 5" x 5".
2 matching charm packs (75 charms total) of assorted green, aqua, orange, cream, tan, and yellow prints for blocks and outer border (see “Matchmaking” below)
1½ yards of cream solid for background and inner border
½ yard of cream print for binding
3¼ yards of fabric for backing
56" x 56" piece of batting
MATCHMAKING
Each block quadrant requires four coordinating squares from one charm pack and four identical squares from the second pack. Your charm pack might not have enough of one color or print for nine full sets of eight squares. If so, instead choose eight assorted charm squares for each block.
Cutting
All measurements include ¼"-wide seam allowances. The quilt has nine blocks that require eight charm squares each.
CUTTING THE CHARM SQUARES
Select and organize the eight charm squares for each block before cutting (refer to “Matchmaking” on page 55). For each block, designate one set of four squares for the four-patch unit and one set of four squares for the folded-corner units.
From each of the 36 charm squares in the folded-corner sets, cut:
1 rectangle, 2½" x 5" (36 total; reserve for the outer border)
2 squares, 2½" x 2½" (72 total)
From the remaining charm squares, cut:
6 rectangles, 2½" x 5"
CUTTING THE BORDERS AND BINDING
From the cream solid, cut:
3 strips, 7" x 42"; crosscut the strips into 36 rectangles, 2½" x 7"
5 strips, 3½" x 42"
5 strips, 2½" x 42"; crosscut the strips into 36 rectangles, 2½" x 5"
From the cream print for binding, cut:
6 strips, 2½" x 42"
Assembling the Blocks
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Lay out four charm squares for one block in two rows of two. Join the squares in each row, and then join the rows to make a four-patch unit measuring 9½" square.
2 Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the 2½" squares that match the top-left square in the four-patch unit. Place one marked square on the end of a cream 2½" x 5" rectangle with right sides together. Sew along the line. Trim only the square fabric ¼" from the line, and then press. Repeat with the remaining matching square and a 2½" x 7" cream rectangle. Repeat to make a pair of matching folded-corner units for the bottom-right square in the four-patch unit.
3 Repeat the process from step 2 with the four remaining 2½" squares to make two additional pairs of matching 5"- and 7"-long folded-corner units, but orient the marked line in the opposite direction from the units in step 2. These units will match the top-right and bottom-left squares.
4 Lay out the folded-corner units around the edges of the four-patch unit, matching the placement of the prints as shown.
5 Join the folded-corner units in pairs as shown. Sew the top and bottom units to the four-patch unit, and then sew the side units. Repeat with each set of matching pieces to make nine blocks measuring 13½" square.
Assembling the Quilt
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Lay out three rows of three blocks. Join the blocks in each row, and then join the rows. The quilt center should measure 39½" square.
2 Trim two of the cream 3½" x 42" strips to measure 39½", and then sew them to the top and bottom of the quilt center; press. The quilt should measure 39½" x 45½". Join the remaining 3½" x 42" strips end to end. From this long strip, cut two strips measuring 45½" long. Sew the strips to the sides of the quilt; press. The quilt should measure 45½" square.
3 Join 10 assorted 2½" x 5" rectangles end to end; press the seam allowances in one direction. The border should measure 2½" x 45½". Repeat to make a second border from 10 rectangles. Sew the borders to the top and bottom of the quilt. The quilt should measure 45½" x 49½". Join 11 assorted 2½" x 5" rectangles end to end; press. Repeat to make a second border from the remaining rectangles. Trim these borders to measure 49½" long. Sew the borders to the sides of the quilt; press.
Finishing the Quilt
Go to ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt for more details on quilting and finishing.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top; baste the layers together. Hand or machine quilt as desired. The quilt shown was machine quilted with an echoing curved design in the center of each block. The cream background is quilted with a curved cross design, and the outer border has a simple scalloped design.
2 Use the cream 2½"-wide strips to make the binding and attach it to the quilt.
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from SANDY GERVAIS
Sandy Gervais (PiecesfromMyHeart.net) is one of Moda Fabrics’ original lucky charms. She’s been a fabric designer with Moda for more than 22 years.
What charms me most about charm packs is that I have always loved any kind of puzzle. I do the Word Jumble and Suduko puzzles in the paper every day. I think of making a charm pack quilt as a bit of a puzzle. What can I make with these squares? How will I make three red squares work, when I really need four? I like the challenge.
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs, are you more likely to use two or three of the same collection or from different collections? Same.
This works like a charm for me every time: Pin and press. I need both.
About those pinked edges, here’s my advice for taking them into account when you sew: Use the outside pinked tips as if they were the cut line. Never trim them off!
Besides a 5" charm square, my other go-to precut shape is a Layer Cake 10" square.
If I taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, I’d teach the students that getting it done is more important than perfection.
If I had to pick a “lucky” charm out of a charm pack, I’d choose whichever one makes the quilt work at the time!
In Charm School, you learn the social graces. But in Quilter’s Charm School you learn is that sometimes some of the charm squares are better suited to go in your stash than in the quilt you are designing. Don’t feel bad for them. They will make all kinds of new friends in the stash!
Three Times a Charm by Sandy Klop
FINISHED QUILT: 52½" x 52½"
CHARM PACKS NEEDED:
Bright polka dots dance across the patchwork in this cheerful quilt. To make the eye-catching mitered borders, choose a coordinating border print and fussy cut the sections you like best for your design.
Materials
Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric. Charm squares are 5" x 5".
3 charm packs of assorted bright and cream prints for quilt top and outer border (you’ll need 107 squares, including at least 8 cream squares)
1½ yards of floral border print for borders
½ yard of green print for binding
3½ yards of fabric for backing
59" x 59" piece of batting
Cutting
From 16 of the bright charm squares, cut:
16 rectangles, 4¾" x 5"
From each of 25 charm squares, cut:
4 squares, 2½ x 2½"
From the border print, cut from the lengthwise grain:
4 strips, 4½" x 52"*
4 strips, 4¾" x 26"*
From the green print for binding, cut:
6 strips, 2½" x 42"
*Sandy fussy-cut the border print to center the design motifs within the strips.
Assembling the Quilt Center
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Using 17 of the bright 5" squares and the pattern on page 65, prepare 17 circles for appliqué according to your preferred method (see “Appliqué Options” on page 65). Select nine circles for the quilt center, and pair each one with a charm square for the background. Reserve the remaining eight appliqué circles for the quilt top. Appliqué the circles to the nine selected charm squares.
2 Arrange the appliquéd squares in three rows of three. Join the squares in each row, and then join the rows. The center block should measure 14" square, including ¼" seam allowances.
3 Fold the center unit in half vertically and horizontally and pin-mark the centers of the edges. Fold each 4¾" x 26" strip in half and pin-mark the centers. Measuring from the center of each strip, use a pin to mark 7" from both sides of the center.
4 Pin a strip to the center unit with right sides together, matching the center points. Align the pins at both ends of the strip with the edges of the center unit, and ease the strip to fit. Stitch to the quilt center unit, beginning and ending ¼" from the edges of the center unit. Repeat with the three remaining strips.
5 Lay the first corner to be mitered on an ironing board. Fold under one border strip at a 45° angle to the other strip. Press, and then unfold. Fold the center unit with right sides together, aligning the adjacent edges of the strips. Stitch on the pressed crease, sewing from the previous stitching line to the outer edges.
6 Press the seam allowances open, check the right side of the quilt to make sure the miters are neat, and then turn the quilt over and trim away the excess border strips, leaving a ¼" seam allowance. Repeat with the remaining corners. The quilt center should measure 22½" square.
Assembling the Quilt Top
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Sew bright charm squares to opposite sides of a cream charm square. Then sew a bright 4¾" x 5" rectangle to each end of the strip, which should measure 5" x 22½".
2 Sew two bright charm squares to each end of four of the units from step 1. The units should measure 5" x 40½".
3 Join two of the units from step 1 along the long edges. Repeat with the two remaining units. Sew these units to the sides of the quilt center.
4 Join two of the units from step 2 along the long edges. Repeat with the two remaining units. Sew these units to the top and bottom of the quilt top. The quilt top should measure 40½" square.
5 Appliqué the remaining eight circles to the quilt top, referring to the photo on page 61 for placement. Center the circles over the seam intersections.
Adding the Borders
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Use the floral 4½" x 52" strips to make and attach a mitered border to the outer edges of the quilt top in the same manner as the mitered border of the quilt center. The quilt top should measure 48½" square.
2 Join 24 assorted 2½" squares. The unit should measure 2½" x 48½". Make two. Sew these units to the sides of the quilt top. Join 26 assorted 2½" squares. The unit should measure 2½" x 52½". Make two. Sew these units to the top and bottom of the quilt. The quilt should measure 52½" square.
Finishing the Quilt
Go to ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt for more details on quilting and finishing.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top; baste the layers together. Hand or machine quilt as desired. The quilt shown was machine quilted with a swirl and flower design in the background. The center border is quilted with a feather design, and the outer pieced border has an X quilted in each square.
2 Use the green 2½"-wide strips to make the binding and att
ach it to the quilt.
APPLIQUÉ OPTIONS
This design features 17 appliquéd circles. Sandy used needle-turn appliqué to attach the circles to her quilt, but you can use whatever technique you prefer. For information and instructions for various appliqué methods, go to ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt.
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from SANDY KLOP
Sandy Klop charms the quilting world as American Jane (AmericanJane.com).
What charms me most about charm packs is that I don’t have to cut them. Such a time-saver!
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs are you more likely to use two or three of the same collection or from different collections? Different! The more the merrier.
This works like a charm for me every time: Before you begin cutting, organize your charm pack into lights, darks, and duplicates.
About those pinked edges, here’s my advice for taking them into account when you sew: Let them be. Just jump in and start sewing.
Besides a 5" charm-square, my other go-to precut shape is a 10" square.
If I taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, I’d teach the students to sing their own song! Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise!
Moda All-Stars- Lucky Charm Quilts Page 4
