In row houses and other narrow structures,
structure will be easiest to modify and which
interior walls are often nonbearing because joists
should be left alone and—once you start
run the full width of the dwelling. There, interior
exploring designs—which solutions will be the
walls running parallel to joists—or even perpen-
most practical and cost-effective
dicular to them—were probably not bearing
Using the floor plans you drew earlier as tem-
walls originally. But, here again, they may have
plates, use tracing paper to create a map for, say,
become bearing walls if joists were undersize to
major structural members such as girders and
begin with or if their effective spans were
bearing walls, another for HVAC system ele-
reduced by “remuddlers’ cutting into them.
ments, as well as a plumbing map showing fix-
Where interior partitions have become bearing
tures and, at least, drainage-waste-vent (DWV)
walls, floors may slope toward them.
pipes. While documenting each room, also note
If your plans included removing a nonbearing
water stains, tired windows, outdated fixtures,
wall to open up a space, the task may be straight-
ungrounded outlets, sagging floors, and other
forward. If the wall is load-bearing, removing it is
things that need fixing. (Chapter 1 can help you
an expensive alteration involving structural engi-
understand what you’re seeing.)
neers to make sure those loads are correctly trans-
structural elements. Most single-family, wood-
ferred somewhere else. If that bearing wall is also
framed houses are structurally pretty simple. The a shear wall, required in earthquake or high-wind
planning Your renovation
25
easy to route: They’re much smaller than DWV
pipes and don’t need to be pitched because water
supplies are under pressure. Being flexible, PEX
supply tubing is easy to run almost anywhere.
HVAC systems tend to be big and bulky, espe-
cially forced hot-air (FHA) systems, so their pres-
ence also will affect your design options. If the
system is relatively new—say, installed within the
last 20 years—leaving ducts in place and install-
ing a new high-efficiency furnace may be the
most cost-effective and least disruptive way to
upgrade an FHA system. Modern hydronic (hot-
water) heating systems are typically fed by 3⁄4-in.
pipe, so they can usually be relocated more easily.
Whatever the HVAC system, sizing and configur-
ing it is best left to an HVAC specialist, ideally as
part of a whole-house energy assessment. See
chapter 14 for a more detailed discussion.
When mapping an FHA system, note the loca-
tions of registers and the furnace. Then intuit the
locations of ductwork, using dotted lines to sug-
gest duct runs. In many cases, ducts or hydronic
Using a printout of a Google satellite
heat pipes will be visible where they emerge in
map of your street, you can quickly
the basement—or wherever the furnace is located.
create a rough site plan of your
regions to resist lateral forces, count on extensive
For upper-story heat outlets, delivery ducts and
property. Site plans help city planners plan reviews by the building department.
see the scope of your renovation.
pipes generally travel straight up between studs.
Plumbing fixtures are often grouped around a
Electrical wiring rarely affects design phases
3-in. or 4-in. DWV stack located in a wall near the unless you intend to move a service panel. Small
toilet. Grouping fixtures shortens the distances
and flexible, electrical cable is easily routed
large pipes must run and thus minimizes the
through walls, floors, and ceilings. Where you
impact on nearby framing. In many houses, large don’t want to cut into existing surfaces or can’t—
stacks are concealed within wet walls framed out
as with masonry floors—run rigid conduit or
with 2x6s to provide enough room. If you can
track wiring along the surface. Mapping electrical
locate new fixtures near existing stacks, you’re
systems and identifying individual circuits is dis-
halfway home.
cussed at length in chapter 11.
Layouts that locate new bathrooms far from
existing stacks can be problematic because all
Creating a Site Map
drains must slope downward at least 1⁄4 in. per
1 ft. to carry off wastes. Thus, a 3-in. toilet drain
As part of the permitting process, most towns
would need roughly 8 in. of height for a 12-ft.
require a site map—even if your renovation will
horizontal run: 31⁄2 in. for the exterior diameter
take place wholly within the existing footprint of
of pipe plus 3 in. for slope plus 1 in. of clearance. the house. Fortunately, accurate site maps are
In other words, you’d need to run drainpipes
now easy to make. Simply enter your street
between joists at least 10 in. deep. If existing joists address into Google Maps™, zoom in to choose
don’t provide the height needed to run 3-in. or
the closest view, click the “satellite” button, and
4-in. drains, you can add a stack, build up a plat-
print out the aerial view of your house and lot.
form over an existing floor, or frame out false
Trees may obscure some of the details, so to sim-
ceilings below—all expensive solutions. You’d do
plify things, put tracing paper over the satellite
well to consider another design. Likewise, think
photo, completely outline all structures on your
long and hard about any floor plan that calls for
property, and use broken lines to indicate fences
running big drains across joist arrays—a night-
or property lines.
mare scenario of cutting and drilling, leading to
If you are planning to build an addition,
weakened joists.
sketch it onto the site map, too. Be as accurate as
To get an idea where pipes are running, draw
you can, but don’t agonize. This simple site map
fixtures on your plumbing map, and note where
will be close enough to discuss your ideas with a
main drains emerge in the basement and where
city planner (to see how feasible your project is),
stacks protrude from the roof (connect the dots).
an architect, or a builder. If you proceed with the
Rigid water-supply pipes, on the other hand, are
renovation, later on you may need to have survey
26
Chapter 2
lines checked and more extensive drawings made,
but at this stage the site map can be simple.
Confusion is Costly: a primer
Getting Help with
for owner–builders
Your Renovation
there are many ways you could save money by doing jobs yourself: obtaining
After you’ve spent time wo
rking up a renovation
permits, ordering materials, hiring and scheduling subcontractors, demolishing
wish list and documenting what’s there, talk to
walls, hauling rubble, and completing finish work. but that isn’t for everyone. and
building professionals such as architects and
because homeowner skills and experience vary, there are no easy rules for deciding
general contractors (GCs) to get a reality check.
what to attempt yourself. Yet there are times when even scarce money is well spent
Building and remodeling projects can get
for a skilled professional, and there are times when regulations require it.
complicated and expensive. Whether you run the
Hire a pro whenever these situations apply:
whole show, from planning to construction, or
you turn the entire thing over to a professional
You’re confused and don’t know how or where to start a renovation task. this
depends on how much time, expertise, and
is especially true if you have trouble envisioning spatial solutions—seeing things in
money you have. If you don’t have a ton of
three dimensions.
money, you might want to get involved in as
You lack the technical skills to do a job—in which case, learning by working
many places as you can. But if you can afford it,
with a pro makes sense.
it might make sense to hire an architect and let
You’re rushed for time and can probably earn more elsewhere (to pay for the
him or her find a good general contractor.
work) than you could save by doing it yourself.
Assembling the right team will make the rest of
tasks require special or hard-to-find tools.
the project go smoothly. Maybe you can do it.
the job is inherently dangerous. For example, an amateur should not install an
Maybe you can’t.
electric service panel.
Whenever possible, use your personal net-
building codes, bank agreements, insurance policies, or other legally binding
works to find building professionals to work
documents require that work be done by a licensed professional.
with. Perhaps a friend renovated recently and
Finally, poorly organized projects and confusing drawings can idle workers, cost-
had a great experience. Or maybe you’re keen on
ing you big time. if you’re not well organized, patient, and willing to field phone
a contractor who did another project for you. In
calls at all hours, hire a gC who is. Likewise, if you’re not construction savvy and a
that case, ask the GC for the names of an archi-
tect whom she or he enjoys working with. Or
capable draftsperson, hire a pro to generate final working drawings. it’s far cheaper
maybe you know an architect but no contractors.
to resolve construction issues on paper, especially if a project is complicated.
In that case, the architect may help you find the
rest of the team.
As far as assembling a team to help you get
the job done, here’s the bottom line: Make sure
they are people who can see eye to eye with you
As important, a perceptive architect can steer
and who will work well together. Often, the best
your project through the trickier parts of the
teams are ones that have worked together before. approval process. Getting a project approved and
The worst thing you can do is bring in a GC long
built is a hardball game. If your first submittal
after the plans are all complete, you’re in a hurry
set isn’t accurate, complete, and professional
to get started, and you only have a vague under-
looking, your subsequent efforts will be viewed
standing of what kind of person he is and what
with skepticism and greater scrutiny. To quote a
quality of work he does. You can hope it will
seasoned builder, “Your documents must not
work out, but that could be a recipe for disaster.
only explain clearly what you want to do, but
explain it in the way that planners want to hear
arCHiteCtS anD DeSignerS
it. Few builders are equipped to generate their
own set of presentation plans for the site, even if
An architect can refine your design ideas and
they’ve got some talent in drawing. It’s a lot of
draw up the floor plans and elevations needed for work and takes a lot of time.”
the submittal set—documents and plans submit-
This succinct observation came from a general
ted to the building department for a permit. But
contractor: “The main reason to hire an architect
an architect can do much more. He or she will
is to make sure you’re building the right project.”
devise solutions that maximize natural light and
usable space—always a challenge—and suggest
generaL ContraCtorS
materials and appliances that are stylish, func-
tional, and energy-conserving. An architect also
To save money, homeowners sometimes try to act
can assemble a team of specialists, from energy
as their own general contractor. At first glance,
specialists to structural engineers.
obtaining (“pulling”) permits, ordering materials,
planning Your renovation
27
training may offer “design-build” services under
one roof—or in one person.
When Do You need a permit?
There are many ways to find a good GC. Start
Local codes always have the last say about what’s permitted, so speak with a
with the recommendations of friends who’ve
remodeled recently. Architects also will know
planner in city hal or visit your town’s building department website to learn the rules.
who’s good. Once you have two or three names,
that noted, these observations hold true for building permits in most areas:
call each, ask for an hour of his or her time to
permits are required for all new construction and most renovations involving
look at your ideas, and get an idea of what it
structural, mechanical (HvaC), electrical, or plumbing system changes. permits
might cost. (First meetings are usually free; after
require inspections at specified stages and/or completion.
that, be prepared to pay . . . it’s only fair.) Most
a separate permit is usually required for each system being altered.
builders won’t want to ballpark a price based on
the person doing the work must pull the permit(s), whether a contractor or a
a schematic, but they will give you a price range
homeowner.
per sq. ft. based upon construction costs in your
the permit must be posted on the job site where an inspector can see it.
area. In any event, if you find a contractor you
Permits required. as a rule of thumb, renovations that alter the structure or
like, ask for references and a list of jobs she or he
extend an electrical, plumbing, or HvaC system require a permit. if the work involves
has done in the last five years. It’s important that
the creation or enlargement of an opening in an exterior wal —such as adding a door
&nb
sp; the references and jobs be this recent because
or window—you need a permit. Likewise, if an interior renovation involves cutting
construction crews change often.
into finish surfaces or working inside a wal , a permit is usual y required. to cite a few
specifics, you need a permit when adding a room, adding or removing wal s, finishing
DeSigner-buiLDerS
any room (basement, garage, attic) to create additional living spaces, adding bath-
Add one more to the mix of people who can help
room or kitchen fixtures, or adding electrical outlets and fixtures.
you renovate: the designer-builder. Time was,
No permits needed. on the other hand, you generally do not need a permit
before the skills of homebuilding and design split
when repairing or replacing an existing fixture or outlet, when the work is largely
apart, they were often embodied in one person, a
cosmetic, or when an installation doesn’t require cutting into finish surfaces. For
master builder. That tradition is returning, in
example, no permit is required to replace a broken electrical receptacle; replace a
part because of tight times but also because cli-
toilet or bathroom sink; retile a shower stall; replace an existing garbage disposal or
ents like having one person who can answer all
their questions—whether aesthetic, technical, or
dishwasher; install or replace portable appliances such as washing machines or
budgetary—and accept all responsibility if there’s
refrigerators; or replace a doorbell.
a bump in the road. Designer-builder firms also
Important for safety. installing or replacing a water heater always requires a
argue that the transition from design to build is
permit because a unit’s temperature- and pressure-relief (tpr) valve must be
smoother when handled under one roof.
installed correctly to prevent an explosion. all work on gas appliances, lines, or
Interestingly, two of the three case histories at
vents requires a permit. instal ing or altering any vented heating or cooling system
the end of this chapter were executed by design-
needs a permit—including furnaces, woodstoves, gas ranges, range hoods, bath
build outfits, and the third featured “an architect
fans, dryer exhausts, and so on. You may also need a permit to repair or replace gFCi-
with a ton of construction experience and a
protected receptacles.
builder who could draw.”
DeaLing WitH CitY HaLL
Renovation 4th Edition Page 7
