is, and you can’t reposition the fixture, cut through the joist and install doubled
recommended rough-in specs.
headers to redistribute the load. If possible, avoid running larger drainpipes perpen-
dicular to joists and studs because drilling and cutting weaken the framing. But if
drill you must, “Drilling and notching studs and Joists” on p. 342 shows acceptable
Then use tracing-paper overlays for each floor’s
hole sizes and locations; “maximum sizes for holes and notches” on p. 341 also will
plumbing layout. Indicate existing fixtures, drains,
be helpful.
supply pipes, water-using appliances, and the
The trickiest pipe to route is a 3-in. drain, whose outer diameter is 31⁄2 in. If that
water heater. Where pipes are exposed, note the
pipe runs 12 ft. horizontally, sloping 1⁄4 in. per ft., it will drop 3 in. during its run. If
size and dimension of drains and stacks and
it runs between enclosed joists, the pipe will need at least 61⁄2 in. height—plus the
where the supply pipes exit into the floor above.
height of any fittings. If floor joists are nominally 2x8s (actually, 11⁄2 in. by 71⁄2 in.),
Especially note the location of 3-in. main drains
things could get pretty tight. when planning pipe runs, consider pipe dimension,
and vents. If you can cluster fixtures around larger
slope, space for fittings, and the actual size of the lumber in your calculations.
DWV pipes within a room—or from floor to
floor—you’ll shorten the distance that fixture
drains must travel and thus reduce the amount of
framing you may have to cut or drill when run-
ning the new pipes.
If you’re moving or adding fixtures, make
separate floor sketches for them, too. By laying
tracing-paper sketches of old and new plumbing
atop each other, you can quickly see if fixtures
cluster and, if you’re adding fixtures to an exist-
ing system, the closest part of a drain or supply
plumbing
321
zzzzzz plumber’s Isometric sketch of
Three-Fixture Bathroom
Vent stack
Branch vent
PLAN VIEW
TUB/SHOWER
LAVATORY
Fixture
trap
Branch
drain
Cold
supply
TOILET
Jaws VII: wrenches and pliers. Clockwise, from upper left: tub-strainer wrench,
slide-nut or sliding-jaw pliers, basin wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench,
Hot
strap wrench (won’t mar polished pipe), and no-hub torque wrench.
supply
Closet bend
pipe to connect to and extend from. Plumbers
use isometric paper to draw pipe runs, as shown
in “Plumber’s Isometric Sketch of a Three-Fixture
Bathroom” at left, but any to-scale sketch will
Soil stack
give you an approximate idea how long pipe runs
will be. Sketches also tell you where you’ll need
ISOMETRIC VIEW
fittings because the pipes change direction, con-
nect to branches, or decrease in size.
Try to obtain sheets of plumber’s isometric paper so you can
show bathroom rough-ins in three dimensions. Art or
Tools
engineering supply stores may carry the paper, but the Internet
is probably a better bet.
With a modest tool collection, you’ll be ready for
most plumbing tasks.
Pipe wrenches tighten and loosen threaded
metal joints, such as 3⁄4-in. nipples (short pipe
lengths) screwed into a water heater, galvanized
pipe unions, and so on. A pair of 10-in. or 12-in.
pipe wrenches should handle most tasks. Get
two: Most of the time, you’ll need one wrench to
hold the pipe and the other to turn the fitting.
adjustable wrenches (also called Crescent
wrenches) have smooth jaws that grip but won’t
mar chrome nuts and faucet trim. Get several:
A 4-in. adjustable wrench is right for the closet
bolts that anchor toilet bowls, a 12-in. wrench
gives extra leverage for stubborn nuts, and an
8-in. wrench is appropriate for almost every-
thing else.
Strap wrenches aren’t a must-have tool but are
Cutting and reaming tools. Top row, from left: miniature hacksaw, close-quarters cutter, combo
useful when you need to grip polished pipe with-
chamfer and reamer (cleans burrs from pipe ends after cutting), and aviation snips. Bottom row,
out scarring it.
from left: reamer, utility knife, large-wheeled tubing cutter (cuts up to 2-in. plastic pipe), and
wheeled tubing cutter. The cutting wheels can be changed for different pipe materials.
322 Chapter 12
Slide-nut (sliding-jaw) pliers are good utility
tools for holding nuts, loosening pipe stubs, and
holding a pipe section while it’s being soldered.
Locking pliers (or Vise-Grip pliers) adjust and
clamp down on fittings, for example, so you
can have both hands free to hold a torch and
apply solder.
Basin wrenches are about the only tools that
can reach water-supply nuts on the underside of
sinks and lavs, where supply pipes attach to
threaded faucet stems.
Tub-strainer wrenches tighten tub strainer and
tailpiece assemblies.
No-hub torque wrenches tighten stainless-steel
band clamps on no-hub couplings. Many plumb-
ers use a cordless drill/driver to do most of the
tightening, but code requires that final tightening
be done by hand.
Miscellaneous tools. Clockwise, from left: torpedo level, hammer, 14.4-volt cordless drill, flint and
steel striker (lights torch), gas soldering torch, tape measure, and plumber’s sand cloth (used before
Pipe cutters (also called wheeled tubing cutters) fluxing pipe).
are the best tools for a clean, square cut on cop-
per pipe. Tighten the cutter so that its cutting
wheel barely scores the pipe, then rotate the tool
around the pipe, gradually tightening until the
cut is complete. Many types have a foldaway
deburring tool. Use a close-quarters cutter (thumb
cutter) where there’s no room for a full-size one.
If you’re installing CPVC plastic supply pipe, use
tubing shears for clean, quick cuts. A hacksaw
works but not as well.
a reaming tool (if your cutter doesn’t have one
attached) is used to clean metal burrs after cut-
ting copper. Use a round wire brush to polish the
inside of copper fittings after reaming and
plumber’s sand cloth to polish the pipe ends. If
you’re cutting plastic pipe, use a rounded file to
remove burrs—the steel jaws of an adjustable
wrench also work well for deburring plastic pipe.
Wide-roll pipe cutters open wide to receive the
larger diameters of plastic DWV pipe. Plastic-pipe
saws have fine teeth that cut ABS and PVC pipe
cleanly—and squarely, if used with a miter box. If Water-supply fittings. First column, from top: 3⁄4-in. 90, 3⁄4-in. street 90, 3⁄4-in. street 45, and
you need to cut into cast iron, rent a snap cutter,
3⁄4-in. 45. Second column, from top: 3⁄4-in. CxF (copper-by-female) drop-ear 90, 3⁄4-in. CxF
also known as a cast-iron cutter. It’s the only tool
adapter, 3⁄4-in. CxM (copper-by-male) adapter, and 3⁄4-in. cap. Third column, from top: 3⁄4-in. tee,
that cuts cast iron easily. Some models have
3⁄4-in. by 1⁄2-in. tee, 3⁄4-in. by 1⁄2-in. by 3⁄4-in. tee, and 3⁄4-in. by 1⁄2-in. by 1⁄2-in. tee. Fourth
ratchet heads for working in confined places.
column, from top: 3⁄4-in. coupling, 3⁄4-in. by 1⁄2-in. reducing coupling, 3⁄4-in. CxF union, and
3⁄4-in. dielectric union.
a cordless drill and a cordless reciprocating
saw are must-haves if you’re working around
metal pipes that could become energized by elec-
tricity and when working in tight, often damp
If you need to drill 2-in. (or bigger) holes, use
crawlspaces. Old lumber can be hard stuff to drill a corded drill. Heavy-duty drilling takes sustained
or cut, so 14.4-volt cordless tools are minimal.
power and more torque than most cordless drills
Cordless drills are perfect for attaching plumber’s have. A 1⁄2-in. right-angle drill (see p. 51) supplies
strap, drilling holes in laminate countertops,
the muscle you need in close quarters.
and so on.
plumbing
323
Propylene gas torches are somewhat more
a torpedo level helps with leveling stub-outs (pipe
P R O T I P
expensive than the propane torches popular with stubs protruding into a room), sinks, and toilet
do-it-yourselfers. Either type of torch can solder
bowls. You’ll also want a hacksaw, screwdriver
once you have polished metal
1⁄2-in. or 3⁄4-in. fittings required for copper pipes,
with interchangeable magnetic bits, utility knife,
pipe ends, don’t touch them
but propylene, being hotter, will do the job faster. and a hammer.
or the insides of fittings with
That’s especially true if there’s a small amount of
your bare skin; skin has oils
that may prevent solder from
water left in a pipe.
Copper Water-Supply Pipe
adhering to the surface. wear
Nonasbestos flame shields protect wood fram-
This section focuses largely on installing rigid
clean, disposable plastic gloves
ing when soldering joints. It is also important to
copper water pipe. It’s strong, easily worked,
whenever handling, cutting, and
have a fire extinguisher nearby.
approved by virtually all codes, and represents
soldering pipe.
Your plumbing kit should also include a hand- more than three-quarters of residential installa-
ful of other tools. Aviation snips are used for cut-
tions. Flexible PEX tubing, which will be dis-
ting perforated strap and trimming gaskets, and
cussed later in the chapter, is gaining market
share quickly, especially in renovations.
FITTIngs
plumbing safety
If you divide fittings into a few categories, their
many names start to make sense. Because they
get a work permit and a copy of current plumbing codes from your local building
do similar things, supply-pipe and DWV fittings
department. Follow the codes closely; they’re there to protect you.
often share names.
get a tetanus shot before you start, and dress for dirty work.
wear protective eyewear when using power tools, chiseling, soldering, and
Fittings join pipes. The simplest fitting is a cou-
striking with hammers—in short, for most plumbing tasks. wear heavy gloves when
pling, which joins two straight lengths of pipe.
A reducing coupling joins different size pipes. A
handling drainpipe and disposable plastic gloves when working with solvent-based
cements or soldering. wear a respirator (not a mere dust mask) when soldering or work-
ing around existing soil pipes; p100 filters are the standard protection.
use only cordless power tools when cutting into supply pipe. If a corded power
tool shorts out in that situation, it could be fatal. Before cutting into finish surfaces,
shut off the electrical power to nearby outlets, and test with a voltage tester, as shown
zzzzzz pipe Fitting
on p. 268, to be sure power is really off.
ensure good ventilation when joining pipes because heated solder and solvent-
Socket depth
based cements give off noxious fumes. make sure you have adequate lighting.
when soldering joints in place, place a nonasbestos flame shield behind the fit-
tings to avoid igniting the wood framing. have a plant spritzer, filled with water, on
hand to dampen the wood if you must solder fittings close to framing; make sure
there’s a fire extinguisher on site. molten flux or solder can burn you, so be careful.
when connecting to existing Dwv pipes, plan the task carefully. Flush pipes
with clean water beforehand, and have parts ready so that you can close things up as
soon as possible. To avoid weakening nearby joints, be sure to support pipes before
Alignment marks
cutting them.
Be fastidious about washing
thoroughly after handling contaminat-
ed waste pipes and chemicals.
If you smell gas, stop working:
running equipment or soldering could
spark an explosion. If you can quickly
locate the gas shutoff valve outside,
shut it off. In any event, clear every-
one from the house at once and call
When measuring pipe, al ow for socket
the local gas utility.
depths. Also when dry-fitting pipe
assemblies, draw alignment marks on
When soldering copper, prevent fires by
pipes and fittings to help you point
placing a nonasbestos flame shield
the fittings in the right direction when
between the fittings and wood framing.
assembled. This is particularly helpful
when giving plastic fittings one-
quarter turn after glue is applied.
324 Chapter 12
socket Depths
of aBs/pvC Fittings*
sockeT
sockeT
dIameTeR (in.)
dePTH (in.)
11⁄2
3⁄4
2
7⁄8
3
11⁄2
* Fitting sockets vary, always measure depth to be sure.
repair coupling has no internal stop midway, so
it can slide all the way onto a pipe, then slide
Water-supply valves. Clockwise, from upper left: Lever-handle ball valve, 5⁄8-in. by 3⁄8-in. angle
back over a new piece of pipe inserted to repair
stop, TPR valve, female hose bib, and gate valve.
a damaged section. A union is a coupling you
can disconnect.
that keep water heaters from exploding should
S a f e T y a l e R T
Fittings change direction. The most common
the water get too hot or the tank pressure
directional fitting is a 90
° elbow, also known sim-
too great.
Check the solder label to
ply as a 90 or an ell. For a more gradual turn, use
make sure it is lead-free.
a 45° elbow, also called a 45 or a 1⁄8 bend. A street
workIng wITh
although lead has long been
ell is a 90° elbow with one hubless end, which
Copper supply pIpe
known to be a neurotoxin,
can fit directly into the hub of another fitting.
plumbers continued to use 50:50
Ditto, a street 45.
Type M rigid copper is the most commonly used
(half-lead) solder until it was
copper supply pipe in houses, although type L,
Tees join three pipes. Tees (also spelled T’s)
banned in 1986. modern solders
which is thicker, may also be specified. Type K,
allow you to run branch pipes to individual fix-
are typically tin-antimony, tin-
the thickest of the three, is usually specified for
silver, or tin-copper-silver alloys.
tures or fixture groups. Reducing tees accept dif-
commercial and industrial jobs.
ferent size pipes. If you want to sound like a pro,
“read a tee” by noting its run (length) dimension
To cut rigid copper, place a tubing cutter on the
first (in inches), then its branch leg. If both ends
pipe so that its cutting wheel is perpendicular to
of the run are the same size, mention that num-
the pipe. Score the pipe lightly at first, until the
ber only once, as in 3⁄
cutting wheel tracks in a groove. Gradually tighten
4 by 1⁄2. But if two legs of a
tee reduce, cite all three of the tee’s dimensions,
the cutting jaw as you rotate the tool, until the
for example: a 3⁄
wheel cuts all the way through. If you tighten the
4 by 1⁄2 by 1⁄2.
adapters join different types of pipe. A sweat/
male adapter has a soldered end and a threaded
measuring and Fitting pipe
end. A sweat/female adapter has a threaded receiv-
ing end. Adapters are also called transition fit-
when measuring water-supply or Dwv pipe runs, keep in mind that most pipe
tings because they allow a transition in joining,
slides into fitting sockets. The depth of the socket is its seating distance (seating
as just described, or a transition in pipe materi-
als. A dielectric union can join galvanized and
depth), which you must add to the face-to-face measurements between pipe fit-
Renovation 4th Edition Page 75
