P R O T I P
not a problem, what with soap dispensers, hot-
keep clean. They’re also stain- and crack-
water dispensers, spray units, filtered-water dis-
resistant, available in many colors, and
pensers, and so on to choose from. Incompatibility
if you choose
reasonably priced. However, compared with
a replacement
more often occurs when a faucet assembly’s valve
sink the same size as the old one,
solid-surface materials, acrylics are relatively
stems have a different spacing than the holes in
you won’t need to adjust the
soft, so they should be cleaned with non-
the sink. Always measure the sink and the faucet
counter opening to install a
abrasive cleaners. They can be damaged by
larger sink. Moreover, if there’s
assembly to be sure. Likewise, if the sink is
extreme heat and may be incompatible with
an under-counter dishwasher
undermounted, an installer must drill holes into
petroleum-based cleaners and caulks. Cost:
next to the sink cabinet, there
a countertop, making sure they have the same
$150 to $300.
may be no room for a longer sink.
spacing as the faucet to be installed.
Mounting style. There are a number of mount-
Materials. Sink materials include many of those
ing styles, although almost all require a bead of
used for countertops. You can use almost any-
sealant along their perimeter to keep water from
thing that will hold water, but ideally it should be getting under the sink rim. Mounting styles
light enough to install without breaking your
include self-rimming, undermount, integral,
back, easy to clean, durable, moderately priced,
flush mount, and separate rim.
heat-resistant, and stain-resistant. Few materials
Self-rimming sinks are popular and easy
fill the bill as well as stainless steel.
to install because the sink rim sits on the
Stainless-steel sinks represent roughly
countertop—after you’ve applied a bead of
three-quarters of all kitchen installations.
silicone sealant around the perimeter of the
Typically, they have a brushed or polished
sink cutout. Heavier sinks, such as cast iron,
finish; brushed finishes are easier to maintain
are held in place by the adhesion of the sealant
because water spots don’t show as conspicu-
and the weight of the sink, whereas lighter
ously. A sink’s gauge (thickness) is the real
sinks, such as stainless steel, require clips on
differentiator. Thicker gauges (16 to 18 ga.) are
the underside of the counter. When a self-
harder to flex and dent and are quieter to use,
rimming sink is set under a countertop, as
whereas thinner gauges (20 to 22 ga.) are less
shown on p. 378, it may be called a counter-
expensive, less durable, and more inclined to
under sink.
stain. Cost: This can range widely, from $40 for
Undermount sinks are placed under a
a 22-ga. single-bowl sink to hundreds for a
counter whose sink opening must be finished
custom-made, 16-ga. commercial-grade sink
because it isn’t covered by the sink rim.
with multiple bowls.
Counters with undermount sinks are easy to
Enameled cast-iron or enameled-steel
keep clean because there’s no rim to block
sinks are available in numerous colors and
food scraps; just sweep them into the sink.
provide a classic look that works in modern
Typically, clips attach the rim to the underside
and traditional kitchens. Enameled sinks have
of the counter; many contractors also add
a hard finish, but the enamel can chip, making
framing inside the sink cabinet to support the
the metal substrate likely to rust. Abrasive
sink when it’s filled with water.
cleaners quickly dull enamel finishes. Cast
Integral sinks are bonded to a counter of
iron is so heavy that it takes two people to
the same material, creating a seamless, leak-
install it and so hard that it’s monstrously
free joint. Integral sinks are common to solid-
difficult to drill if you need an additional hole
surface and quartz-composite counters.
for a water filter or some other accessory.
Flush-mount (tile-edge) sinks have a
Delicate dishes or glasses dropped on it are
rim the same thickness as the tile layer when
doomed. Cost: $200 to $500+ for cast iron;
both rest atop a thin-set mortar bed. Such
slightly less for steel.
sinks are typically enameled steel or cast iron.
Solid-surface sinks are usually
You can fill the tile-sink rim joint with grout or
manufactured from the same material as the
silicone sealant, but acrylic latex sanded caulk
counter and glued (chemically bonded) to the
has the best qualities of both and comes in
underside of the counter for a seamless,
several colors.
leakproof joint that won’t catch food scraps.
Separate-rim sinks are usually stainless
As with counters, solid-surface sinks are stain-
steel and employ a separate stainless-steel rim
resistant, nonporous, and easy to clean. And
to cover the joint between the small sink rim
you can sand them smooth if they get gouged
kitchens and baths
377
and the edge of the counter. To prevent leaks,
P R O T I P
you must seal both the sink side and the
counter side of the rim.
Ceiling light set back
cutting sink openings is best
zzzzzz kitchen lighting
10 in. to 12 in. from
left to a pro if your countertop
wall cabinets
is stone, solid-surface, quartz
installing a kitchen sink
composite, or some other hard,
Because self-rimming sinks are the most com-
Task light
exotic, or very expensive
mon, this section focuses on their installation. If
shielded by
material. the plywood substrate
your sink is of a different type, follow the manu-
face board
beneath the countertop still
facturer’s installation instructions.
needs a sink cutout, however.
18 in. to
Lay out the opening. Mark the sink cutout
30 in. above
counter
(opening) on the counter or the plywood sub-
strate. Most sinks come with a paper template of
the cutout; if yours doesn’t, make one of card-
board. To do that, turn the sink upside down
onto the cardboard, and, with a felt marker, trace
its outline. Next, use a yardstick to draw a second
outline 3⁄4 in. inside the first on the cardboard.
Sink rims are typically 3⁄4 in. wide, so the inner
line represents
the size of the cutout, and the
outer line shows how much clearance the sink
rim needs. Position the cutout template on the
To illuminate work areas without strong
shadows, use a combination of task lighting
and general lighting.
zzzzzz sink-Mounting details
SELF-RIMMING SINK
Sealant
FLUSH-MOUNT OR TILE-EDGE SINK
under sink lip
Enameled
cast-iron sink
Sanded caulk
Enameled cast-iron
Tile or grout
or solid-surface sink
Weight of sink holds it in place.
Thinset
UNDERMOUNT SINK
layer
Counter
Mortar bed
Plywood
overhangs sink.
or cement board
substrate
Sealant
SEPARATE-RIM SINK
Sink clip or wood frame
Stainless-steel
supports sink.
Plastic
Sealant
rim
laminate
Leakproof
Sealant
INTEGRAL SINK
seam
Rim clip
Stainless-steel
sink
Counter and sink are same material,
bonded chemically.
378 chapter 13
Clearance needed
zzzzzz cutting out a sink opening
Shims support
for sink rim
cutout.
1-in. hole saw creates
rounded corners.
Cutout line
Solid-surface sinks are chemically bonded to a counter of
the same material, creating a leak-free seam.
Because sink rims are typically 3/4 in. wide, create cardboard templates
counter so there’s clearance on all sides, then use to show both the clearance needed for the rim and the cutout line
a felt marker to trace around the template.
needed for the sink body.
Cut the opening. Drill a hole at each corner of
the cutout for your jigsaw blade; if you use a hole
saw to drill the corners, its arc should match the
rounded corners of the sink body. As you cut
each side of the sink opening, stop just short of
the corner hole. Then drive a shim into the
sawkerf—from the underside of the counter—to
keep the cutout section from falling. (A wood
shingle is a perfect shim.) With a few shims in
place, finish cutting to the corner holes and lift
the cutout section, using the corner holes as fin-
ger holds. Use a wood rasp to smooth rough cut-
lines or splinters.
Install the sink. Wearing heavy work gloves, put
your fingers in the sink drain and faucet holes,
lift the sink, and lower it into the cutout. Two
people should lift and set the sink if it’s cast iron;
Here, an undermount sink is being
put wood scraps around the cutout to set the sink clip-mounted to the underside of a
solid-surface counter . . .
on so it doesn’t crush your fingertips. Check the
sink’s fit in the cutout—look under the counter as
. . . and then lifted as a unit and placed atop a base
well—before lifting the sink out. Trim the cutout
cabinet. Supplemental plywood frames inside the cabinet
as needed. Then mount the drain basket, faucet
will also support the sink rim.
assembly, and accessories to the sink; they’re
This self-rimming stainless-steel sink
harder to attach once the sink is in place. To
was installed as a counter-under sink.
cushion the sink hardware and create a water-
After routing the perimeter of the
tight seal, use the flexible seals or plastic plates
cutout so the sink rim would be flush
provided by the manufacturer. If the unit has a
to the plywood, the installer set the
hollow body, put a bead of plumber’s putty
rim in epoxy. Just before installing
the stone, he caulked the top of the
beneath its lip. Don’t do this if the countertop is
rim with silicone.
stone; the oil in the putty may stain the stone.
Silicone will work, too, but it can make the fau-
cet difficult to remove if you decide to replace it.
Just before installing the sink in its opening,
apply a cushion of sealant for the sink rim to rest
on. The sealant will be a layer of plumber’s putty
or, more likely, silicone caulk: Follow the sink
manufacturer’s recommendations. Make any
final adjustments to the sink’s position before
kitchens and baths
379
applying a bead of silicone caulk along the edge
neighbors, install translucent or textured
of the sink rim, where it rests on the counter.
glass, or place windows high on the wall.
With a moistened finger, compress this caulk line Windows in showers are generally not a good
and remove the excess silicone. (If you will install idea because water sits on windowsills and
a counter over the sink rim, apply the silicone on rots them. Ideally, skylights should open.
top of the sink rim just before the countertop is
Make sure there’s enough artificial light.
installed, as shown in the bottom photo on p. 379.) For general lighting, plan on 3 watts to 4 watts
Fasten mounting clips, if any, and attach the
of incandescent or 1.5 watts to 2 watts of
supply risers and the sink drain.
fluorescent lighting per sq. ft. For fixtures in
alcoves, use a 75-watt or 100-watt recessed,
Bathroom Planning
vaporproof ceiling fixture. To illuminate
bathroom mirrors, however, install light
If a bathroom is comfortable and its fixtures are
fixtures on the walls: one over the mirror and
in decent shape, you might want to add only light one on each side. Ceiling fixtures alone will
fixtures or a vanity. But if the bathroom is musty, make that face in the mirror look ghoulish.
add a bath fan (see chapter 14). If fixtures are
tired or chipped, you can minimize renovation
Choose comfortable fixtures. “Standard
costs by hooking new fixtures to existing pipes.
Cabinet Dimensions” on p. 358 suggests
But if a bathroom is drafty, cold, or uncomfort-
counter heights. If they are too high or low for
able, you may be wise to tear out finish surfaces,
your family, change them so you don’t need to
insulate it well, and position the fixtures more
stoop or stand on tiptoes. As for tubs, if you
efficiently. But first, here are a few thoughts on
can’t stretch out in a standard tub or squared
what makes bathrooms pleasant.
tub as you’d like, look into oversize models or
slope-back, cast-iron clawfoot tubs in a salvage
creating bathrooMs that Work
yard. Shower stalls should be big enough to
towel off in—36 in. by 36 in.
Here are 12 factors that help make a bathroom
Invest in well-made shower valves,
comfortable, functional, and easier to clean:
showerheads, and lavatory faucets with nickel-
>
Adequate room. Bathroom space isn’t
or chrome-plated finishes. They cost two to
efficient if there’s not enough room to use
three times what bargain home-center
the fixtures easily and safely. “Bath-Fixture
accessories do, but they’ll last longer. The
Clearances” on p. 382 shows minimums, which
same goes for towel bars, switch plates,
may be superseded by local building codes.
mirrors, and other accessories—buy quality.
Keep it secure and intimate. Although
Use appropriate materials. Water reigns
shared bathrooms should be accessible to the
in a bathroom, so use materials that can
rooms they serve, bathroom users should feel
withstand it. Resilient flooring and tile are
secure once inside. Avoid multiple-door
great on bathroom floors; wood isn’t. Even
accesses. Keep the room’s scale intimate as
when wood is face-sealed with a tough finish,
well: Warm, cozy spaces are best.
its end grain can absorb water. And in time,
Put private fixtures far from the door.
standing water will cloud most finishes. As
The most-used and least-private fixture, the
explained in “Setting Beds” on p. 456, don’t
lavatory, should be nearest the door so people
use drywall as a substrate for tile around tubs
can pop in and wash their hands quickly. But
and showers.
toilets and tubs should be farther away.
Ventilate. Even if there’s a window in the
Insulate walls and install a tight-fitting door to
bathroom, be sure there’s an exhaust fan in the
suppress sound. Cast-iron waste pipes are
ceiling near the shower. If it’s a light/fan
quieter than plastic ones.
combo, the fan switch should have an integral
Use alcoves and half-walls. Placing
timer so the fan can keep running after the
fixtures in alcoves and odd spaces around the
light is turned off. See “Controlling Moisture
perimeter of a room maximizes the floor space
and Mold” on p. 403 for the whole story.
in the middle. Isolating toilets or tubs with
Add GFCI protection. All electrical
their own doors also makes it possible to share
outlets, including fans, must be protected by
a bathroom during morning rush hours while
GFCIs. Shocks could be fatal in such a moist
preserving privacy.
environment, so the National Electrical Code
Take advantage of natural light. Windows
requires GFCI protection on all bathroom
and skylights allow rooms to be small without
Renovation 4th Edition Page 88
