or move the sink to create equal tile widths on both sides.
tiling
473
put full tiles along the front of the counters
and work back, relegating cut tiles to the very
back to be covered by the backsplash. If you use
zzzzzz counter layout
the same tile for the backsplash, continue the tile
STRAIGHT COUNTER
joints up the wall so that the backsplash and
counter joints line up.
Control line
Tub Surround
Never assume tub walls are plumb. Always check
them with a 4-ft. level. If walls aren’t plumb
within 1⁄8 in. in 8 ft., correct them with a mortar
bed or reframe them. Otherwise, tile joints from
A straight counter needs only one layout control line to
indicate the first tile joint back from the edge.
adjacent walls won’t align. Moreover, never
COUNTER WITH SINK OR COOKTOP
laying out a tub back Wall
almost all tubs slope slightly, so use a spirit level to locate the
Control lines
lowest point. From that lowest point, measure up one tiling unit
(one tile height plus one grout joint) plus 1⁄4 in. and mark the
wall. (the 1⁄4 in. allows a gap between the bottom of the tile and
the tub; the gap is caulked.) draw a level control line through that
mark, as shown in the illustration below, and extend that level line
If a sink or a cooktop in the counter interrupts the layout
and requires tile cutting, mark secondary control lines on
to all three tub walls. use a story pole to see if you’ll need to cut
either side to indicate where full tiles resume.
tiles. if so, lay out tiles so cuts are symmetrical on both ends of
the back wall. draw a plumb line on each end of the wall to indi-
cate where the cut tiles will begin. Finally, through a tile joint
along the level control line, draw a plumb control line that roughly
L-SHAPED COUNTER
bisects the backwall. Start tiling where control lines meet.
Cut-tile lines
Control lines
Plumb
control line
Start tiling where
An L-shaped counter will have two major control lines,
control lines meet.
running perpendicular to each other. Add lines as needed to
indicate sink placement, open counter edges, and so on.
Level
control line
Lowest point
Leave a 1/4-in. gap,
Tub line
of tub
minimum, between tiles
and tub.
474 chapter 16
TIlINg A TUB SUrroUND
1. After checking tub walls for plumb, use a spirit level to 2. At the lowest point of the tub shoulder, measure up 3. The first course of full, uncut tiles
check whether the tub is level along all three sides. If the
one tiling unit (tile width plus one grout-joint width) and should rest on the wooden strips.
tub slopes, note the lowest point.
mark that onto the wall. Through that mark, draw a level
After you’ve installed tiles on all
line that extends to all three walls of the surround. Next,
three walls and the setting bed has
nail narrow wooden strips to the underside of that line,
hardened, remove the wood strips
as shown.
and install cut tiles below.
4. Typically, tilesetters mark a vertical line to bisect the
5. Periodically check to see if tile
sidewall of a tub. As you trowel on thinset, try not to
courses are level, inserting plastic
obscure the line with adhesive. Although this pro is
shims as needed. leave them in place
setting a whole wall without interruption, most mortals
until the thinset cures. Note: Because
should set tile a half or quarter wall at a time.
walls aren’t perfectly regular, you’ll
often need to use spacers as well as
shims. Spacers are uniformly thick;
shims are tapered.
6. Use nippers for the curved cuts
around pipes and the plastic
protective covers over shower valves.
Wear goggles when nipping.
7. If it’s necessary to cut tiles, place
them symmetrically on both ends of
the sidewall. Although it’s possible to
cut all partial tiles at once, measuring
each ensures a better fit.
tiling
475
assume that a corner is a good place to start
tiling, for it may not be plumb. Instead, establish
rejuvenating grout Joints
level and plumb control lines on each wall to
guide your layout. Most tile setters start by laying
and caulking
out the longest wall, which I’ll call the back wall.
if your grout is moldy, use a soft-bristle plastic brush to scrub the joints either with
Use your 4-ft. level to determine if the tub is level
household cleaner, a weak bleach solution, or a tile-specific cleaner such as homax®
on all three sides of the surround. If tub shoul-
grout and tile cleaner. Wear rubber gloves and goggles, and always brush such solutions
ders are level, you can start measuring tile cours-
away from your face. if the mold returns, try upgrading the vent fan to reduce the mois-
es up from the tub, but in renovation, tub shoul-
ture in the room. if the grout is intact but dingy, scrub, rinse, and allow it to dry before
ders are rarely level. More likely, the tub will
slope. So, from the lowest point of the tub shoul-
applying a grout colorant, which will both color and seal the grout. Follow the manufac-
der, measure up one tiling unit and mark it onto
turer’s instructions.
a wall. (A tiling unit is a tile width plus one grout
however, if tiles are loose, surfaces flex, or if you see water damage around fixtures
joint.) Through that mark, draw a horizontal
at the base of a tub or shower or along the backsplash of a counter, the substrate has
control line, and extend that line to all three walls
probably deteriorated and should be replaced. in other words, you’ll need to tear out
of the surround.
tiles and substrate.
Now locate a vertical control line, roughly
there’s an interim condition, often caused by applying grout that was too thin or by
centered along the back wall. Holding your story
oversponging it, in which tile is intact but grout is worn or crumbling. in that case, use
pole horizontally, determine whether you need to
a grout saw or an oscillating multitool (p. 49) to cut out the old grout, taking care not
cut tiles and, if so, where to place them. In most
mar the tile edges. as you’ll realize quickly, this job takes patience. Vacuum out the
cases, back walls look best if there are symmetri-
debris, scrub the joints with a cleaning solution, rinse well, and use a grout float to
cal (equally wide) vertical columns of cut tiles at
apply polymer-modified grout, which will adhere better. it’s possible to regrout only
each end. That decided, choose the joint mark on
part of a surface, but matching old and new grout color can be difficult, so it’s better
to
your story pole closest to the middle of the wall,
regrout the entire surface. Wait 72 hours before sealing the grout joints.
and run a plumbed line up, bisecting the back
removing hardened caulk along the tub can be a chore. chiseling it out is perilous
wall and the horizontal control line you drew
earlier. (This is also a good time to draw plumbed
because tub enamel and tile chip easily. instead, use acetone to dissolve caulk. to use
lines at either end of the back wall, indicating
the acetone, cut cotton clothesline to the length of the caulk seam, wet the clothesline
where cut tiles begin.)
with acetone, and place it next to the caulking before covering both with duct tape.
Next, use your story pole on the sidewalls to
left overnight, the acetone will soften the caulk. Caution: acetone is volatile and thus
see if it’s necessary to cut tiles for them and, if so,
flammable, and it’s nasty to handle and breathe. leave the bathroom window open
where to place those tiles. In most layouts, a full
while the caulk softens. don’t use acetone around an open flame, such as a pilot light.
column of tiles is placed along the outside edges
Wear rubber gloves and a respirator with the appropriate cartridges.
of sidewalls because they are visually conspicu-
ous; cut tiles are consigned to the corners. Also
draw plumb lines to indicate the outside edges of
P R O T I P
Supporting TileS
about the same time you’re
It’s smart to tape specialty tile pieces in
sponge-wiping the surfaces of
tile, use a margin trowel to
place until thinset has hardened. That’s
remove any grout lodged in the
especially true for heavy pieces, such as a
1⁄4-in. gap where tile meets the
soap niche, and for pieces with a relatively
tub. allow a day for the grout to
small bonding surface, such as bullnose edge
cure, then seal these gaps with
trim. Caveat: Wait until the field tiles have
an acrylic or silicone caulk. tile
bonded securely before taping to them.
suppliers sell caulk that’s either
sandless or sanded and color-
matched to your grout.
476 chapter 16
sidewall tiles. Finally, you may want to draw
quadrant of full tiles at a time, then going back
additional layout lines to subdivide the back wall later—often, the next day—to cut and set partial
and anticipate tile cuts around the soap dishes,
tiles and trim pieces. It’s also advisable to leave
tub spouts, shower mixing valves, and so on.
plastic tile spacers in place until the thinset
As with floor-tile installations, pros often
cures. After pulling out the spacers with needle-
begin setting tub surrounds in the middle of a tile nose pliers, you’re ready to grout.
field, where control lines intersect, setting a
getting grout right
Most grout is packaged as a powder containing sand, portland
30° to the surface, sweep grout generously over the tile and pack it
cement, colorants, and additives that improve strength and adhesion.
into joints. after you’ve packed all joints, remove the excess grout.
labels on grout bags offer good information, including the correct
holding the float almost perpendicular to the surface, sweep the float
liquid-to-powder ratio and, on most bags, a chart showing how much
diagonally across the tile joints. Periodically unload excess material
grout to buy based on the square footage of the tile area and the width into a bucket. diagonal passes are less likely to pull grout out of of the grout joint.
the joints.
using a margin trowel, mix powdered grout in a clean bucket, start-
in about 15 minutes, when the grout has begun to set, use a clean,
ing with three-quarters of the recommended liquid and gradually pour-
damp (not wet) sponge to clean grout residue off tile faces. rinse the
ing in the rest. let the grout stand (slake) for 10 minutes, then stir it
sponge often. if the sponge pulls grout out of the joints, you can wait
again to test its consistency. grout should be wet enough to stick to
a little longer, wring the sponge a little drier, or don’t press so hard.
the side of a tile but not runny—a consistency rather like hummus or
Sponge-wiping also smooths out grout joints. So, for best results, use
thick toothpaste. depending on the wetness of the mixture and the
a round-shouldered, tight-cell sponge. Wide-cell sponges will pull
temperature of the room, grout starts to set up in about 30 minutes, so grout out of the joints.
mix as much as you can spread in 15 minutes—at which point you
in another 15 minutes, use soft, dry rags to rub off any haze that’s
should start cleaning up the grout.
dried on the tile. because it’s porous, grout can stain. let it cure for
if you’re grouting a floor or a countertop, just dump the bucket
72 hours before applying a liquid grout sealer or impregnator to the
onto the surface. (grout with the right consistency may need a little
grout alone or to the whole tile surface. two recommended sealants:
help out of the bucket.) holding the face of the grout float at about
tilelab® penetrating sealant and tec™ sealants.
Holding the grout float about 30° to the
In about 15 minutes, when the grout has begun to set, wipe the
floor, pack grout into the tile joints.
tile with a clean, damp sponge. rinse and wring the sponge often.
To avoid pulling grout out of joints, sweep the sponge diagonally
across tile joints, using a sponge with tight pores.
tiling
477
17 Finish Carpentry
Interior trim is often called casing, or molding
After framing wal s, running pipes and if its face is shaped. (In fact, the terms are used
wires, insulating, and hanging drywall, it’s time
more or less interchangeably.) Trim helps estab-
to install interior trim. Somewhat like a picture
lish the character of a room, so it’s wise to
frame, trim is decorative. But it’s also functional,
respect existing trim when replacing or supple-
concealing gaps and rough edges where walls
menting it. Carefully remove and save existing
meet floors, ceilings, doors, and windows.
molding if it’s in decent condition. If that type is
Although finish carpentry is not as fundamental
no longer available, try to locate new molding
as structural framing or foundation work, it com- with a similar feeling. Or you might be able to
pletes the picture and often makes or breaks a
combine and overlap stock moldings to create a
renovation project.
more complex and interesting look. Another
choice is using prefab, high-relief synthetics that
duplicate large-scale moldings not available in
wood today.
Finally, for advice on choosing and installing
counters, cabinets, and fixtures appropriate to
bathrooms and kitchens, see chapter 13. For
sequences of installing doors and windows, rea
d
chapter 6.
Tools
Most of the tools for finish carpentry are present-
ed in the basic collection discussed in chapter 3,
although upcoming sections address a few
specialty tools. Still, by and large, successful trim-
work depends more on the hands behind the
tools than on the tools themselves. Also, when
working with power tools and striking tools,
safety glasses are a must, especially when joinery
requires close work at eye level.
Measuring and layout
Whenever possible, hold a trim piece in place
and use a pencil or a utility knife to mark the cut-
line. This is usually more accurate than transfer-
ring tape-measure readings.
Trim covers gaps between building materials and dresses up a room. Here, baseboards are shimmed
1⁄2 in. above a concrete basement subfloor so engineered wood flooring or carpet can slide under it.
Pneumatic nailers are much faster than hand nailing and far less likely to split or dent trim.
478
2
9
5
10
6
3
8
11
4
1
12
7
Measuring and layout tools: 1. Framing square; 2. String; 3. Adjustable square; 4. Stud finder; 5. Combination square; 6. Adjustable bevel; 7. Steel try square; 8. Chalkline; 9. Folding rule with sliding extension; 10. Tape measure; 11. Compass; 12. Swanson Speed Square
Tape measures are frequently used to measure
and miter cuts. Because its ruler can be extended
P R O T I P
trim longer than 6 ft. Check your tape measure to from the tool body and fixed with a screw, the
be sure that the hook at the tape end isn’t bent
square can double as a depth or marking gauge.
get organized. Before you
and that the rivet slot hasn’t become elongated
The combo also has a bubble-level insert for lev-
begin, set up a workstation with
from the hook’s repeated slamming into the
eling small surfaces such as windowsills.
all the tools and materials you’ll
case—either of which will give inaccurate read-
An adjustable (sliding-T) bevel copies and
need. Keep the area clean and
ings. For the most accurate readings, start mea-
transfers angles accurately. Because frame cor-
your materials sorted: Clutter
Renovation 4th Edition Page 111
