by David Weaver
When making snoods, try to use a line which is not prone to tangle or twist, a good example of this is “Amnesia” (this is available in various sizes). In many cases other than heavy rock fishing it is best to use a snood length that is a lighter breaking strain to the main line that you have on your reels, this is so that if your hook gets stuck in any underwater snags you are more likely to lose just the snood length.
When making separate snood lengths it is best to attach a small swivel and clip to one end as this makes it easier to change snoods quickly, one example is using a snood suitable for a Dogfish for a period of time and then changing it for a beaded snood for flatfish.
This method works very well when scrambling over rocks or covering a lot of ground on the coast paths.
TRACES
When making traces the shockleader rule applies as the trace has to withstand the full casting weight of the lead. The body of the trace includes all of the main line from the top swivel to the bottom, at the lead link.
When making traces from this book, there may be a necessity to use crimps, these should be put on with care and only crimped with enough force to slightly close the crimp on to the line, if to much force is used, the crimp can and probably will cut through the line.
If you do not feel confident enough to use these, or cannot acquire these, there is an alternative, this is a stop knot or, a piece of old telephone wire coiled, tightly around the line will work in the same way as a crimp or stop knot, these are adjustable.
Many of the traces shown are for use at marks that have more than enough room to swing a lead out from the end of the rod, for long distance casting, however many of these traces can be considered dangerous if used in areas with little room. For confined areas there are shorter traces, use these.
Making your first simple rig
After reading the first few pages you should have gained a basic knowledge of rigs and the components used, now follow this simple set of instructions and make your first rig, a single paternoster with a bait shield, note the bait shield is optional.
You will need the following parts:
1, snap link,
1 lead link,
2 x swivels,
1x 3 way swivel,
1 bait shield optional,
1 x bead,
1 x crimp,
2 x 18” shockleader material,
1 x 14” hook length material,
1 x hook.
First of all connect the snap & lead links one to each swivel, now tie the free end of each swivel using a clinch knot to the 2 lengths of shockleader material, you should now have 2 swivels with links attached to the 2 shockleader lengths.
Attach the 3 way swivel to the free end of the shockleader on the swivel with the snap link.
Now feed the free end of the other shockleader through the rubber tubing and bait shield if used, make sure that the shield is the correct way up i.e. the cone is facing the lead link end, now slide on the bead followed by the crimp and let it run freely down the line DO NOT squash the crimp at this time, tie the free end of the shock leader to the other side of the 3 way swivel.
It should now look like the picture shown below
If you are using a trace making board stretch out the trace between two pins so that it is taught, this will make it easier to set the hook length. All you should have left at this point is the hook and the hook length material, now attach the two with a clinch knot and then making sure that the hook length is now shorter than the distance between the 3 way swivel and the lead link, and attach the length to the 3 way swivel. If used push the rubber tubing up on to the bottom of the bait shield, put the hook in place so that the hook length is taught, let the bead slide down to the top of the shield and then squash the crimp up behind the bead. There you have it your first rig and remember practice makes perfect.
Basic MPD Anti-tangle float end tackle
This is a very simple and effective piece of end tackle and as long as you keep the hook length shorter than the rig body, it is 99.9% tangle free, using this with a sliding float can also greatly increase your casting distance.
The parts needed for this are as follows:
18” Shockleader material,
two medium barrel swivels,
four beads,
two short bits of silicon rubber tubing, this acts as a type of shock absorber during the cast.
Use this by feeding a bead up the main line followed by the float and bead then attach this to the main line and a hook length of about 12”16” long to the other end of rig body.
INLINE SLIDING FLOAT
This basic system of float is mainly used for long distance casting for Mackerel, Pollack, Garfish, Scad, Whiting, Bass and Wrasse. The above float is available in various sizes from local tackle dealers. Use float system on suitable size shockleader.
PARTS LIST
1 Sliding Float.
1 Ball weight to suit.
2 Beads.
1 Swivel.
1 Hook , size 1 to 2/0.
1 Rubber Stop Knot.
SLIDING FLOAT
Unlike the first float system, this one is mainly used for closer fishing for Wrasse, Pollack, Mackerel, Scad, Bass and Garfish. It can be very difficult to cast this system any great distance without it getting tangled. Use float system on suitable shockleader.
PARTS LIST
1 Sliding Float,
1 Ball weight to suit.
2 Beads.
1 Swivel.
1 hook , Size 1 to 3/0.
1 Rubber Stop Knot.
SELF COCKING FIXED FLOAT
This float is ideal for shallow fishing, and is a very simple float to set up, particularly good for younger anglers. A good float for Garfish and Mackerel. Tie the end of shockleader directly to the top of the three way swivel incorporated in the float.
PARTS LIST
1 Self Cocking Fixed Float as Above.
1 Length of hook snood,
Approx. 6 - 8 feet,
1 x size 1 to 2/0 hook.
SELF COCKING MULLET FLOAT
This Float system is used mainly for light float fishing for Mullet, although it is also very common in the fresh water tackle box. The float depth can be adjusted by pulling the line through the holes provided, best fished in calm weather with a depth of around 12 feet. This float goes straight on to the main line.
PARTS LIST
1 Mullet Float.
2 - 4 “BB” Lead Shot.
1 Hook Size 10- 6.
BASIC MULLET RIG
This is one of the most basic rigs/ end tackle to set up, you need no Shockleader, no hook length material, nor the use of beads or swivels, you just simply take a measurement of about 18” from the end of the main line, then form a loop of about 6” diameter, tie this in a tucked half-blood knot so that you now have a loop of line tied in the main line approximately 18” from the end.
Now attach a small 1/2 — 1oz lead to the bottom end, once this is done, cut one side of the loop near to the knot, this should now leave you with a single hook length of approximately 12” attach a small hook i.e. size 6 or 8 and that’s the rig finished.
Please note in the illustration green line has been used, this is solely so that it can be seen, and when making this set up it is better to use either clear, ghost, chameleon or grey line as the species this is primarily used for tend to get spooked very easily.
This piece of end tackle can also be adapted to catch Wrasse etc. many anglers use a heavy main line for catching this species and therefore do not have to attach a Shockleader to the end of the main line.
In this case if using up to 25lb line then follow the steps to make the basic Mullet rig but make the loop about 12” diameter and don’t cut it, instead feed the end of the loop through the eye of a size 3/0—4/0 hook and then push the end of the hook through the end of the loop as it comes through the eye, this fastens the hook without the need to tie a knot.
Attach a weight
to the end of the main line, this will work the same as a rotten bottom.
RUNNING LEDGER
This rig can be very versatile, catching most species of fish, particularly good for flatfish, Bass, Cod and Gurnard.
This rig is made on the shockleader, this gives the fish a long length of line to run with, before the lead strikes out of the bottom.
PARTS LIST
1 Zip Slider, with clip. 2 Beads.
1 Medium Swivel.
1 Hook, Various sizes to suit .
1 x 24 inches of Hook Length.
TWIN RUNNING LEDGER
This running ledger rig is similar to the first, however this can be more effective used with worm baits in estuaries for flatfish. Tie trace directly to the end of the
shockleader.
PARTS LIST
1 Zip Slider. 1 Three Way Swivel.
2 Beads for trace & 6+ for Hook Lengths.
2 x Hook Lengths 12 inches & 24 inches.
2 Hooks Sizes 1/0 - 2/0.
PATERNOSTER SINGLE
This rig is one of the simplest ones to make and use, best for gentle casting, this rig catches most species of fish. The rig is tied directly to the end of the shockleader, by using the three way swivel at the top of the rig.
PARTS LIST
1 Three Way Swivel.
8 - 18 inches Hook Length.
24 inches Shockleader.
1 Hook, Size 1/0 - 6/0.
1 Lead Clip.
PATERNOSTER TWIN
This rig is slightly more complicated than the single paternoster, however this rig has the added advantage of having two hooks, and these can be different sizes and be baited with different baits.
PARTS LIST
2 x Three way swivels.
2 x Hook Lengths 8-13 inches.
2 x 14 inches of Shockleader.
2 x Hooks, Size 1/0-6/0. 1 Lead Clip.
ONE UP ONE DOWN
This rig can be used for attracting more than one species of fish, it is best to use a plane lead with this system. this rig is mainly used for close to medium casting for most fish.
PARTS LIST
2 x Three Way Swivels.
1 Lead Clip. 1 Hook Length 12”.
1 Length of Shockleader 18”
WHITING RIG
Although this rig is primarily a rig for catching Whiting, it can be adapted for many forms of fishing. This trace is connected to the shockleader by the three way swivel at the top of the trace.
PARTS LIST
3 X Three Way swivels.
3 x 10-18” Shockleader.
1 x Lead Clip.
3 x 8-12 “ Hook Length.
3 x Hook, Size 1/0-4/0.
PULLEY RIG
This rig can be made at any length that you are comfortable casting with. If made with a long hook length and body this rig is ideal for Cod, Coalfish, Pollack and Bass, and a short body and hook length forMackerel, Scad and whiting.
PARTS LIST
14-30” Of Shockleader. 2 x Beads.
2 x Medium Swivels. 1 Rotor Clip.
1 Hook, Size 2/0-6/0. 12-18” Hook Length.
WISHBONE PULLEY RIG
This rig is similar to the first pulley rig, however, having two hooks can help if the fishing is slow, if you use two different sized hooks and baits, the chances are that you may contact more than one species of fish.
PARTS LIST
14-30” of Shockleader. 2 x Beads.
2 x Medium swivels. 1 Rotor Clip.
2 x Hooks, Size 2/0-6/0. 2 x 12-18” Hook Lengths.
RUNNING PATERNOSTER
This rig can be very effective for short range beach or rock fishing. Used for Rays, Bass, Dogfish, Cod, Whiting, Pollack and Coalfish. If beads are added to the hook length, this rig will work for most flatfish.
PARTS LIST
24” Of Shockleader. 2 x Medium Swivels.
2 x Beads. 1 Zip Slider. 12-20” Hook Length.
1 Hook, Size 3/0-5/0.
BEACH COD RIG
This can be a very versatile rig, mainly used for Cod, by varying the hook size this rig can be used for Bass, Whiting, Pollack, Coalfish, dogfish and will also catch a variety of flatfish with small hooks.
Attach to main line with a loop and clip or swivel.
PARTS LIST
1 Relay Clip. 1 Rotor Clip. 1 Medium Swivel.
2 x Beads. 2 x Crimps. 24” of Shockleader.
36” Hook Length. 1 Hook, Size 2/0- 6/0.
WISHBONE PATERNOSTER
A good rig for catching Bass, cod, Pollack etc, for the medium distance caster, from the beach or rocks, this rig is ideal for use with larger baits.
This rig can be attached to the main line with a loop and clip or a swivel. The rotor clip can be substituted with a bait shield; this will help for longer distance casting, as with most rigs, replacing the rotor clip with a bait shield will increase the ability to cast the bait further. Both hook lengths can be tied to the boom or tie the second length to the first with a loop.
PARTS LIST
1 Light boom.
2 x Beads,
2 x Crimps.
1 x Barrel Swivel.
1 Rotor Clip.
24-30” Of Shockleader.
2 x Hook Lengths various Lengths.
2 x Hook, Size 2/0-6/0.
EASY SLIDER BOOM
This can be a very tough rig, used for heavy rock fishing for Wrasse, Cod, Conger Eels and Rockling. This rig is best used at close or medium range. The Pennel hook on this rig is an option and single hooks work just as well. This rig is designed to run up the shockleader.
PARTS LIST
1 Easy Slider Boom.
1 Bead.
1 Swivel ( Heavy).
1 Hook, Size 2/0-3/0.
1 Hook, 4/0 to 6/0.
BOMBER RIG
This rig, with a few alterations can make a very good distance casting rig, for putting two medium sized baits out in the same area. Various hook sizes can be used.
PARTS LIST
2 x 12 to 24” Of shockleader. 1 x Medium Swivel.
2 x 3 way swivels. 1x Crimp. 1 x bead
1 x Bait Shield & 1 x bait clip.
2 Snoods 1@ 10” 1@ 14”. 2 x Hook, Size 2/0-5/0.
ROTTEN BOTTOM RIG
This rig is used for fishing close in to the edge over very rough ground where end tackle losses can be high. An old spark plug is shown; however nuts, bolts etc. can be used. Main uses are for Wrasse and Rockling, although this rig can be used for any species.
PARTS LIST
1 Three Way Swivel. 12 -20” Hook Length.
1 Hook, Size 1/0-6/0.
18-24” of line, lighter than that of the hook length for Rotten Bottom.
UP & OVER RIG
This rig is a good all-rounder particularly in a strong flowing tide or estuary where keeping the bait close to the bottom can be a great advantage.
This can be made to any length from 12” right up to 48” or what you are comfortable casting, and remember on a 48” trace the hook length would be in excess of seven feet in length, ideal for keeping the bait away from the weighted rig/trace body.
It is not recommended to use this rig/trace from high rock marks unless you are using a heavier than usual hook length material, this rig is more suited to the beach and estuary environment.
PARTS LIST
1 x Swivel.
1 x Three way swivel.
2 x Lead clip.
1 x Bait clip & tube.
1 x Bait shield & tube.
1 x Bead.
12 to 48” shockleader material.
24 to 96” Hook length material.
