A Stroll Through a Classical Painting
STOURHEAD GARDEN
Stourton, Wiltshire, England
Lying between gentle hills in the bucolic county of Wiltshire, Stourhead is arguably England’s finest and best-known example of 18th-century English landscape gardening, confirmation that no other country holds a candle to England’s horticultural expertise and passion. Stourhead’s poetic grounds—inspired by the paintings of Claude Lorrain and Gaspard Poussin—are punctuated with a neoclassical Pantheon, a grotto, and temples built to Flora and Apollo, creating a classical effect that is much mimicked around the world.
The Stourhead estate was owned by the wealthy Hoare family from the early 18th century, and the gardens were created between 1740 and 1780 by Henry (“the Magnificent”) Hoare. After a grand tour of the Mediterranean, he decided to relandscape his estate’s 100-acre grounds upon his return home. Although Stourhead is beautiful all year long, it perhaps offers the most romantic walks in early fall, along the footpaths that wind around a chain of small man-made lakes, and in summer, when its famous dells of rhododendrons and camellias are in full bloom.
The gardens surround Stourhead House, an 18th-century Palladian-style mansion, where many beautiful rooms are also open to the public. Within strolling distance of the gardens’ main gate, the Spread Eagle Inn is a local institution, known for its leisurely dinners of traditional cooking and five comfortable rooms decorated with antiques.
WHERE: 112 miles/180 km southwest of London. Tel 44/1747-841-152; www.nationaltrust.org.uk. When: garden open daily; house open mid-Mar–Oct. SPREAD EAGLE INN: Tel 44/1747-840-587; www.spreadeagleinn.com. Cost: from $155; dinner $40. BEST TIMES: Mar–Apr for daffodils; May–Jun for garden in full bloom; Oct for fall colors.
Grand, Stately, Elegant
CASTLE HOWARD
York, Yorkshire, England
Although best known today as the location for BBC TV’s 1981 adaptation of Evelyn Waugh’s classic novel Brideshead Revisited and for the 2008 movie of the same name, since the early 18th century Castle Howard has been considered to be one of the largest and most august privately owned homes in the British Isles. Though not really a castle, it stands on the former site of one amid 1,000-acre parkland and gardens. The Howard family, whose descendants still reside there today, saw in then-inexperienced architect Sir John Vanbrugh the talent that would later secure him the commission to create the lavish Blenheim Palace near Oxford (see p. 25). The main body of Castle Howard was completed in 1715, including its signature gilt Great Hall, rising 70 feet from floor to dome. The 160-foot, aptly named Long Gallery is the castle’s other highlight, lined with a large number of portraits of Howard ancestors by Holbein and other artists.
The Howard family has made the castle their home for more than 300 years.
For more history, unpack your bags at the Old Lodge Hotel, a Tudor mansion on the edge of the nearby market town of Malton, below the heather-clad hills of the North York Moors National Park. Or head south to handsome Middlethorpe Hall & Spa, on the outskirts of York (see below), one of the grandest country hotels in northern England. Commissioned in 1699, the same year as Castle Howard, this elegant William III–style inn is surrounded by 26 impeccable acres of parkland that border York’s famous racecourse, and is the perfect jumping-off point for a tour of Yorkshire.
WHERE: 15 miles/24 km northeast of York. Tel 44/1653-648-444; www.castlehoward.co.uk. When: house open mid-Mar–Oct; garden, year-round. OLD LODGE HOTEL: Tel 44/1653-690-570; www.theoldlodgemalton.co.uk. Cost: from $180. MIDDLETHORPE HALL HOTEL: Tel 44/1904-641-241; www.middlethorpe.com. Cost: from $240 (off-peak), from $300 (peak). BEST TIMES: May for rhododendrons in Castle Howard’s gardens; May–Oct for racing season; Sep–Oct for fall colors on the moors.
An Ancient City’s Crowning Glory
YORK MINSTER
York, Yorkshire, England
The historic city of York is surrounded by 3 miles of beautifully preserved, centuries-old defensive walls: Strolling along its wall-top walkway is one of England’s finest pleasures. Within lies an architecture-rich city, with all paths leading to its famous showpiece cathedral, the Minster. A wonder of Gothic architecture, it is the largest medieval cathedral in Great Britain and the second largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe (only Cologne’s is larger; see p. 150). Measuring 500 feet from end to end, its nave is the widest in England, and the choir is the second-highest after Canterbury (see p. 13). The whole structure took more than 250 years to build, from around 1220 to 1472, on a site where previous cathedrals and churches had stood, possibly as far back as 627. The central tower is almost 200 feet high, and a breath-sapping climb up the 275-step spiral staircase provides the chance to appreciate both the scale of this massive building (offset by stunning views of the Yorkshire moors beyond) and the sophisticated engineering genius of the buttresses that hold it up.
Best known of the Minster’s 128 immense stained-glass windows is the Rose Window, commemorating the end of the War of the Roses. Above the main entrance is the Great West Window, dubbed “the Heart of Yorkshire” and renowned for its particularly fine tracery. Most amazing of all is the Great East Window, behind the altar. At 1,680 square feet—bigger than a tennis court—it’s the largest single medieval stained-glass window in the world.
Surrounding the Minster is a web of narrow streets and cobblestone alleyways lined with half-timbered houses, many at least 500 years old. Quite a few of the older thoroughfares are called “gates”—Stonegate, Colliergate, and so on—from the Norse word gata, meaning “street,” a constant reminder of York’s Viking past. The Viking period is celebrated at the extremely popular Jorvik Center, which transports visitors back to the year 975, long before the Minster’s first block was laid.
WHERE: 203 miles/327 km north of London. Tel 44/1904-557-216; www.yorkminster.org. JORVIK CENTER: Tel 44/1904-643-211; www.vikingjorvik.com. WHERE TO STAY: The stylish boutique Marmadukes Hotel is a short walk from the Minster. Tel 44/1904-640-101; www.marmadukesyork.com. Cost: from $115. BEST TIMES: Apr–Sep for pleasant weather, with Aug especially busy; mid- to late Feb for Viking Festival; Jul for Early Music Festival; Jul–Aug for height of York’s famous horse races.
Reliving the Grand Days of Travel
BALMORAL HOTEL AND THE ROYAL SCOTSMAN
Edinburgh, Scotland
Standing proudly at the end of Edinburgh’s mile-long, shop-lined Princes Street is the historic and undeniably palatial Balmoral Hotel. Built in 1902 as a railway hotel, it is now one of the city’s most elegant landmarks, complete with kilted doormen at its entrance. Guests can daydream their way through afternoon tea in the Drawing Room, eat like kings and queens in the refined surrounds of the Number One restaurant, or sample the bounty of Scotland’s best distilleries in the high-ceilinged Bollinger Bar in the Palm Court.
The Balmoral’s ornate clock tower is a city landmark, always turned 2 minutes ahead so guests don’t miss their train at the adjacent Waverly Station. Head there for a grand tour of quintessential Scotland aboard The Royal Scotsman, which lets you choose from 2- to 7-night itineraries through the Highlands and beyond. You and 35 fellow passengers will travel in the relaxed and romantic ambience of the Edwardian era on an Orient Express train. From the kilted piper who greets you on the station platform to the restored grandeur of the mahogany-paneled parlor car and richly refurbished private compartments, the attention to detail is everywhere. You’ll journey through glens and mountain passes on remote and little-used railway lines with frequent stops to visit castles, distilleries, and scenic harbor towns. The elegant dining cars host excellent meals reflecting the local bounty, from full Scottish breakfasts to dinners featuring loch prawns, smoked salmon, or rack of lamb. The wine selection is surpassed only by the whisky tastings; enjoy your dram or two to the full—you’ll not be driving home tonight.
WHERE: 375 miles/603 km north of London. BALMORAL HOTEL: Tel 44/131-556-2414; in the U.S., 888-667-9477; www.thebalmoralhotel.com. Cost: from $
600; dinner at Number One $90. THE ROYAL SCOTSMAN: In the U.K., tel 0845-217-0799; in the U.S., 800-524-2420; www.royalscotsman.com. Cost: options begin with a 2-night tour of the Highlands from $3,720, all-inclusive. When: May–Oct. BEST TIME: May–Sep for nicest weather.
The hotel’s clock tower is a landmark in Edinburgh’s skyline.
Heart and Soul of Historic and Cultural Scotland
EDINBURGH CASTLE AND FESTIVALS
Edinburgh, Scotland
One of Europe’s loveliest capital cities, Edinburgh owes much of its character and good looks to its showcase landmark, Edinburgh Castle, atop the craggy remains of an ancient volcano overlooking the surrounding city. This sprawling structure has played many roles: fortress, military garrison, state prison. But its zenith was as royal palace, and today visitors come to see the Honours of Scotland (the Scottish crown jewels). The oldest regalia in Europe, they include the Scottish crown, scepter, and sword of state. Other highlights here include the royal chambers—used until the king permanently moved to England in 1603—where Mary, Queen of Scots, gave birth to James VI of Scotland, who would rule England as James I.
From the castle, the famous streets of the Royal Mile lead down toward the Palace of Holyroodhouse—the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland, and more simply called Holyrood Palace. Branching off this noble thoroughfare are the narrow lanes and alleyways of the Old Town that still evoke the Middle Ages. Among the many historic buildings is The Scotsman, once the headquarters of the newspaper of the same name and now a history-steeped hotel. The exterior is a fantastical mix of Baroque and Gothic styles, with castlelike towers and turrets and stained glass, while the inside retains many original features, such as oak-paneled walls.
For a change of scene and century, cross the bridge below the castle to the orderly streets and squares of New Town. Here you’ll find the classic Caledonian Hotel—enveloped in Edwardian splendor and renowned for its views of the medieval skyline and spires of the Royal Mile—and, of course, the castle, most romantic when brightly illuminated at night.
Every August, all eyes are on this venerable city for the Edinburgh International Festival, a world-class extravaganza of music, drama, and dance founded in 1947 that transforms the sleepy, historic city into a vibrant cultural epicenter. Garnering equal attention is the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, its amateur offshoot that is almost as old; you can expect the unexpected from thousands of performers in hundreds of venues, from pubs to churches. In contrast, the well-ordered display of the nighttime Edinburgh Military Tattoo, also held in August, is possibly the world’s most outstanding military spectacle, augmented by its dramatic floodlit setting on a castle esplanade.
As lively as the summer festivities is New Year’s Eve. Known as Hogmanay throughout Scotland, it’s celebrated with special fervor in Edinburgh, which hosts Europe’s greatest street party, with song and dance carrying through the night and well into the morning.
VISITOR INFO: www.edinburgh.org. EDINBURGH CASTLE: www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk. THE SCOTSMAN: Tel 44/131-556-5565; www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk. Cost: from $235 (off-peak), from $565 (peak). CALEDONIAN HILTON HOTEL: Tel 44/131-222-8888; www.hilton.co.uk/caledonian. Cost: from $240. EDINBURGH FESTIVALS: www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk. BEST TIMES: May–Sep for best weather; Aug–early Sep for major festivals.
Fine Design and High Style in Scotland’s Second City
MACKINTOSH’S GLASGOW
Glasgow, Scotland
Just as Barcelona is associated with the architecture of Gaudí and London linked to the churches of Christopher Wren, Glasgow is proudly home to the work of Scotland’s best-known architect-designer, Charles Rennie Mackintosh (1868–1928). His style, characterized by curves and floral motifs, is often regarded as the epitome of Art Nouveau; but he’s also cited as an Art Deco influence thanks to the clean lines and abstract shapes he favored. His major achievement, heralded as one of Europe’s finest examples of Modernism, is the Glasgow School of Art, completed in 1899 when Mackintosh was just 32. The only church he ever designed is at Queen’s Cross; it’s now headquarters for the Charles Rennie Mackintosh Society, which organizes tours of all his key sites.
Mackintosh’s tearooms were renowned, and he ultimately became as known for his furniture designs as for his architecture. Experience both at the Willow Tearoom on Sauchiehall Street; some of the tables and chairs may be reproductions, but the atmosphere is authentic. Ask to be seated in the Room de Luxe, an Art Nouveau fantasy.
Beyond specific addresses, the artist’s inimitable style remains vividly alive throughout town—from designs found on wrought-iron gates and decorative motifs used on restaurant menus to the ubiquitous, stylized rose that has become a kind of Glasgow logo.
Also emblematic of the city is the Grand Central Hotel, another Glasgow landmark, built in 1883 next to the main train station and newly refurbished. Fans of architecture and design will also appreciate the elegant style of the Hotel du Vin at One Devonshire Gardens. You may need to ring the front doorbell upon arrival, but it will be the last time you’ll lift a finger here. Five exquisitely renovated Victorian town houses have been connected to create a chic jewel box, where superb service and a much touted restaurant (and a whisky bar with more than 300 varieties) may tempt you to see not a whit of Glasgow beyond its gorgeous walls.
Tea at the Willow offers the chance to experience a bygone era amid Mackintosh’s design.
WHERE: 40 miles/64 km west of Edinburgh. VISITOR INFO: www.visitglasgow.com. CHARLES RENNIE MACKINTOSH SOCIETY: Tel 44/141-946-6600; www.crmsociety.com. WILLOW TEAROOM: Tel 44/141-353-5500; www.willowtearooms.co.uk. GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL: Tel 44/141-240-3700; www.principal-hayley.com. Cost: from $160. HOTEL DU VIN: Tel 44/141-339-2001; www.hotelduvin.com. Cost: from $180 (off-peak), from $240 (peak); dinner $50. BEST TIMES: May–Sep for pleasant weather; Jan for Celtic Connections, one of the world’s largest folk and traditional music festivals; Jun for West End Festival of music and the arts.
Mountains and Monuments in Scotland’s Northeast
THE CASTLE TRAIL
Grampian Mountains, Scotland
Along history of battles, clan rivalries, and English invasions manifests itself in the 1,000-plus castles dotting Scotland’s landscape. Some are evocative ruins or little more than long-forgotten mounds in the heather, while others appear as sturdy and foreboding as the day they were built. Many remain inhabited after being flamboyantly refurbished in the Victorian era, when Scotland’s land-owning classes rediscovered a penchant for the turrets and towers of baronial architecture.
One of the greatest concentrations of castles can be found in Scotland’s northeast, the eastern foothills of the Grampian Mountains inland from the “granite city” of Aberdeen. Fourteen of the finest examples have been linked to form the Castle Trail, a signposted route for drivers that’s similar to the Whisky Trail of Speyside (see p. 42), farther to the west. Whether the castles are managed by public trusts or in private hands, all are open to the public.
The impressive collection includes the Delgatie Castle, one of the oldest in Scotland (A.D. 1030), and the ruins of the 13th-century Kildrummy Castle. The most lavishly restored—now grand, stately homes—are Castle Fraser, Crathes Castle, and Fyvie Castle; many are surrounded by impressive gardens that add an extra layer of splendor to any tour of the Grampian region.
Exploring beyond the formal Castle Trail, fortress fans can enjoy the dramatic ruins of Slains Castle, said to have inspired Bram Stoker to write Dracula. Possibly the most dramatic location of all is the cliff-top towers and battlements of Dunnottar, where Franco Zeffirelli chose to film Hamlet in 1990.
Another literary landmark can be found to the northwest, at 700-year-old Castle Cawdor, which has a famous connection to Shakespeare’s Macbeth (though Macbeth is supposed to have reigned some 3 centuries before the castle was built). Balmoral Castle, in the south of the region, is perhaps the best-known of all. It was the “dear paradise” of Queen Victoria, and remains the private summer resid
ence of the British sovereign.
Maintain the theme by checking into the Castle Hotel at Huntly, a fine old mansion originally built for the Dukes of Gordon near the castle that provided its name as well as much of the building’s stone. (Huntly Castle itself, by the way, is yet another impressive ruin on the trail.) For a livelier setting, turn to the 19th-century landmark Douglas Hotel in Aberdeen, where a nearby harbor hosts fishing boats bringing in catches from the Arctic waters and ferries departing for the islands of Orkney (see p. 44) and Shetland.
Drum Castle’s square tower was built in the 13th century.
WHERE: Aberdeen is 125 miles/201 km north of Edinburgh. VISITOR INFO: www.aberdeen-grampian.com. CASTLE TRAIL: 3 main loops, in total about 150 miles/241 km long. CASTLE HOTEL: Tel 44/1466-792-696; www.castlehotel.uk.com. Cost: from $180. DOUGLAS HOTEL: Tel 44/1224-582-255; www.aberdeendouglas.com. Cost: from $210. BEST TIME: Apr–Sep for nicest weather.
Islands at the Edge of the Sea
THE HEBRIDES
Scotland
Off the crenellated northwest coast of Scotland lie the islands of the Hebrides. Divided neatly into two areas—Inner and Outer Hebrides—they are as representative of Scotland as are the Highlands but manage to feel a world apart. The landscape of the Inner Hebrides never fails to impress, with high mountains dropping precipitously to the rocky shores and narrow sea-lochs cutting deep inland. On the island of Mull you’ll find the dark, rocky peak of Ben Mor and the scenic port of Tobermory, with its waterfront of gaily painted houses. Nearby is the sacred isle of Iona, with the less-than-holy-sounding islands of Muck and Rum nearby.
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