WHERE: Klosters is 100 miles/161 km southeast of Zürich; Davos is 7 miles/11 km south of Klosters. HOTEL CHESA GRISCHUNA: Tel 41/81-422-2222; www.chesagrischuna.ch. Cost: from $170 (off-peak), from $340 (peak); dinner $60. When: closed mid-Apr–late Jun and mid-Oct–mid-Dec. RUSTICO HOTEL: Tel 41/81-410-2288; www.rustico.klosters.com. Cost: from $190; dinner $45. BEST TIMES: Mar for skiing; Jul for alpine flowers; Aug–Sep for hiking.
Top-Notch Skiing and an Untrammeled Valley
ST. MORITZ AND THE ENGADINE VALLEY
Graubünden, Switzerland
Despite its celebrated glamour and who’s who cachet, St. Moritz is not as ultraexclusive as its popular image leads one to expect. The world-class (and, yes, pricey) resort can be a generally sporty place with superb downhill skiing on all levels and ideal cross-country skiing. Intermediate skiers will enjoy hopping the cable car to Piz Corvatsch—almost 11,000 feet above sea level, its annual snowfalls are dependable.
Today’s discreet set gravitates to the glitz-free Suvretta House and its Christmas-card views of the mountains. This triumph of subdued luxury behind a grand Edwardian façade impresses with vaulted arches, oak paneling, and 210 understatedly elegant guest rooms. The family-owned Hotel Languard is a smaller delight, some of whose well-kept rooms have balconies and carved wood paneling. Follow the locals to Engiadina for Champagne-infused fondue and steak frites in a simple, rustic setting. For a creative menu and possibly one of the country’s best eating experiences, head to Jöhri’s Talvo, delightfully set in a charming 17th-century Engadine farmhouse.
One of eastern Switzerland’s most beautiful and least trammeled corners, the nearby Engadine Valley supplies countless hiking paths and high-mountain trails through woodlands, Alpine meadows, and old Romansch-speaking villages. Lovely Pontresina has become one of Europe’s best hiking bases and mountaineering centers. In Scuol, taste pure mineral water bubbling from a village fountain before going to the first Roman-Irish baths in Switzerland. Wander the ancient cobbled streets of Guarda, one of the country’s most photogenic hamlets. And explore the country’s only national park, Parc Naziunal Svizzer (Swiss National Park), a pristine 65-square-mile sanctuary with 16 hiking circuits.
A 10-minute drive east of Guarda brings you to the flower-decked Schlosshotel Chastè, a place where old traditions flourish and hospitality is reflected in the heartfelt local greeting “Allegra!” Run by the Pazeller family since 1500, this lovely sgraffito-covered (decorative stucco) inn commands the center of tiny Tarasp, named for the fantasylike feudal castle that looms on a nearby hilltop. Host and chef Rudy Pazeller’s talents shine in the kitchen and throughout the inn’s impeccable guest rooms.
The Engadine Valley is rich with meadows, mineral springs, and a national park.
WHERE: St. Moritz is 125 miles/201 km southeast of Zürich. SUVRETTA HOUSE: Tel 41/81-836-3636; www.suvrettahouse.ch. Cost: from $600 (off-peak), from $880 (peak), inclusive. When: closed mid-Apr–late Jun, mid-Sep–Nov. HOTEL LANGUARD: Tel 41/81-833-3137; www.languard-stmoritz.ch. Cost: from $250. ENGIADINA: Tel 41/81-833-3265; www.restaurant-engiadina.ch. Cost: dinner $50. JÖHRI’S TALVO: Tel 41/81-833-4455; www.talvo.ch. Cost: prix-fixe 4-course dinner $245. SWISS NATIONAL PARK: www.nationalpark.ch. SCHLOSSHOTEL CHASTÉ: Tel 41/81-861-3060; www.schlosshotelchaste.com. Cost: from $400 (off-peak), breakfast only; from $550 (peak), inclusive. When: closed late Mar–May and mid-Oct–mid-Dec. BEST TIMES: Jan–late Mar for skiing; late Jan for St. Moritz Polo World Cup on Snow; late Jun–early Oct for hiking; forests are most colorful late Sep–early Oct.
Lakeside Music Mecca
LUCERNE RIVIERA
Switzerland
Surrounded by mountains, Lucerne’s fairy-tale turrets and covered wooden bridges—including the much photographed Chapel Bridge and Water Tower—make this lakeside medieval town a longtime tourist favorite. Every summer, music lovers descend here for the Lucerne Festival, one of Europe’s oldest, most eclectic and appealing major music events (complemented by an Easter and fall piano program). Inaugurated by Toscanini in 1938, it’s a veritable who’s who of big-name conductors, orchestras (sometimes more than a dozen), soloists, and chamber ensembles that perform at a variety of locations, including the ultramodern KKL Culture and Convention Center. Positioned on the banks of Lake Lucerne, the Jean Nouvel–designed venue makes for a dramatic departure from the city’s storybook setting.
“I do not know of a more beautiful spot in this world!” wrote Richard Wagner, who stayed at the large 19th-century Schweizerhof Hotel. In the same family for five generations, this modernized classic never disappoints with its sweeping views of the lake and mountains. Experience old Lucerne at the gracious Hotel Wilden Mann, where stone, brass, and burnished wood accent 50 guest rooms across seven delightful town houses in the Old Town. The inn’s Burgerstube is a cozy and popular spot for such traditional fare as pan-fried perch or farmer’s sausage with rösti.
Across gorgeous Lake Lucerne, the elegant Park Hotel Vitznau is scheduled to reopen in 2012, after a top-to-toe renovation turns it into an all-suite year-round property. Since opening in 1903, the hotel has been the stronghold of tiny Vitznau, with immaculately tended, flower-filled grounds reaching right down to the water’s edge. Its towering neighbor Mount Rigi is mirrored in the calm waters of the lake, and the climax of many a traveler’s visit to the area is watching the sun rise over the Alps from the mountain’s 5,896-foot summit. Built in 1871, the cog railway to Rigi-Kulm is Europe’s oldest, one of many railways and aerial tramways to the surrounding mountains, permitting spectacular views.
Originally built in the 14th century and later reconstructed after a fire, Lucerne’s pedestrian Chapel Bridge spans the Reuss River alongside the Water Tower.
WHERE: 36 miles/57 km southwest of Zürich. LUCERNE FESTIVAL IN SUMMER: Tel 41/41-226-4400; www.lucernefestival.ch. For tickets tel 41/41-226-4480. Cost: tickets $35–$375. When: 6 weeks, Aug–Sep. HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF LUZERN: Tel 41/41-410-0410; www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch. Cost: from $340 (off-peak), from $460 (peak). HOTEL WILDEN MANN: Tel 41/41-210-1666; www.wilden-mann.ch. Cost: from $295 (off-peak), from $365 (peak); dinner $65. PARK HOTEL VITZNAU: Tel 41/41-399-6060; www.parkhotel-vitznau.ch. BEST TIMES: May–Sep for best weather; Mar or Apr for Lucerne Festival at Easter; late Nov for Lucerne Festival at the Piano and for Lucerne Blues Festival.
Swiss Living, Italian Style
LUGANO
Ticino, Switzerland
A land of palm trees and magnolia blossoms, sinuous lakes, and some of Europe’s most elegant towns, Switzerland’s southernmost corner is a blend of Italian charm and Swiss efficiency. The Italian-speaking canton of Ticino is closer to Rome in temperament than it is to Zürich, 143 miles away. Sundrenched Lugano, its main town, seduces with ancient churches and piazzas connected by a tangled maze of steep cobblestone streets that spill down to its namesake lake.
One of Lugano’s special pleasures is a walk along the shady lakefront promenade past magnificent private villas and their meticulously tended gardens. When you’re ready for your own liberal dose of la dolce vita, head just outside of town to the Collina d’Oro and check into the Italianate Villa Principe Leopoldo. Built by the aristocratic Prussian von Hohenzollern family in 1868, the 75-room property still speaks of princely grandeur inside and out. Its unique hilltop setting offers spectacular views of the mountain-fringed Lake Lugano and one of the area’s most stylish dining rooms and outdoor terraces. A quiet, more modest option right in town is the gracious Hotel Federale. Many of the simply furnished and immaculately kept guest rooms have balconies and lovely lake views—especially delightful from the top floor.
For a taste of old Lugano, follow Italian-speaking locals down an Old Town alley to La Tinera. The intimate taverna draws loyal fans for its authentic fare, both regional and from across the border—cumin-specked Luganighe sausage and risotto parmigiana are house specialties—and Ticinese wines (think robust merlot) served in small ceramic vessels. The next day, take a pleasant hour-long passeggi
ata to the picturesque lakeside town of Gandria, built up the wooded flank of Monte Brè.
Lake Lugano’s Mediterranean climate means palm and bamboo trees flourish and magnolias bloom in the spring.
WHERE: 143 miles/230 km south of Zurich, 45 miles/72 km north of Milan. VILLA PRINCIPE LEOPOLDO: Tel 41/91-985-8855; www.leopoldohotel.com. Cost: from $440 (off-peak), from $645 (peak); dinner $100. HOTEL FEDERALE: Tel 41/91-910-0808; www.hotel-federale.ch. Cost: from $215. LA TINERA: Tel 41/91-923-5219. Cost: dinner $35. BEST TIMES: Apr when the magnolia trees blossom; Apr–May for Lugano Festival of classical music; late Aug–early Sep for Blues-to-Bop Music Festival.
Thrill Seeking On and Off the Slopes
VERBIER
Valais, Switzerland
With some of Europe’s steepest and best off-piste skiing and a lively nightlife, Verbier, in the French-speaking region of Valais, is a magnet for young, adventurous ski buffs who consider this stylish but relaxed town nothing short of heaven. Advanced (and aspiring expert) skiers will have their field day at this nexus of more than 250 miles of pistes connecting four valleys, where they can enjoy wonderful top-to-bottom off-piste runs in the company of a guide.
The slopes aren’t the only thing in town that are steep: Hotel and restaurant rates are consistently high. In the heart of this remote but très chic town is the modest Hotel Farinet, overlooking the main square and the slopes beyond, and just a few minutes’ walk from the chair lifts. You don’t need to be a hotel guest to enjoy its vibrant après-ski scene at the bar or at the Casbah lounge, abuzz with a healthy-looking and fashionable crowd, many of them young professionals from nearby Geneva.
Conveniently located near the main lift station of Médran is the welcoming Hôtel Les 4 Vallées. The contemporary, chalet-style inn offers spacious, often sun-drenched, pine-clad guest rooms with balconies. For traditional Swiss fare—and a terrace popular with skiers fresh off the slopes—try the nearby Au Vieux Verbier, where brightly polished brass, stone, and candlelight serve as the jazzy backdrop for hearty and filling house specialties such as grilled steak flambéed at your table in red-wine sauce.
Off-piste “runs”—including Stairway to Heaven and the Backside of Mont Fort—are best tackled with a guide.
WHERE: 100 miles/161 km east of Geneva. HOTEL FARINET: Tel 41/27-771-6626; www.hotelfarinet.com. Cost: from $250 (off-peak), from $320 (peak). When: closed late Apr–Jun, late Sep–Nov. HOTEL LES 4 VALLEES: Tel 41/27-775-3344; www.les4vallees.com. Cost: from $300. AU VIEUX VERBIER: Tel 41/27771-1668. Cost: dinner $70. BEST TIMES: Jan, Jul, and Sep are least crowded; mid-Jul for classical music Verbier Festival.
In the Matterhorn’s Shadow
ZERMATT AND SAAS-FEE
Valais, Switzerland
The granite profile that launched a million postcards, the Matterhorn rises above the music-box chalets and car-free streets of the popular resort town of Zermatt. Zermatt’s three ski areas rise to well over 9,600 feet and draw an international mix of intermediate and advanced skiers who flock here for wonderful ski runs. The famous Kleine Matterhorn cable car takes you to Europe’s highest piste skiing plus one of Zermatt’s tastiest adventures: skiing across the border into Italy for lunch. Zermatt is also the Alps’ biggest heli-skiing center: The most epic run is from Monte Rosa, at almost 14,000 feet, through remarkable glacier scenery.
In 1865, English explorer and mountaineer Edward Whymper struck out from Zermatt and became the first to scale the 14,691-foot Matterhorn. You may not feel inclined to follow in his footsteps, but you can lodge in the same hotel where he did—the 46-room Hotel Monte Rosa (considerably more luxurious today than when it opened in 1839). Hotels accommodate skiers of all budgets and most promise great views, such as the Hotel Admiral, along the river promenade. When the views fade, the nightlife picks up.
Saas-Fee, 11 miles east of Zermatt, delivers equally spectacular views of the awesome Matterhorn as well as 12 other peaks that tower over 13,120 feet. While the steep terrain and extensive glaciers have limited runs, Saas-Fee offers some of the best snow conditions and the longest season in Europe. Its Felskinn-Mittelallalin ski area is one of Switzerland’s premier ski destinations, and when the snow melts, its high-terrain walking paths draw amblers of all ages.
The charm of this car-free Alpine village makes it a year-round destination, as does the other big draw in town: chef Markus Neff, the king of the Waldhotel Fletschhorn. High on a forested hill, in a chaletlike hotel-restaurant, Neff’s French-based seasonal cuisine blends local flavors with smatterings of the exotic. Head back to town for a stay at the unpretentious Hotel Europa, with spacious, comfortable rooms and an excellent spa for relaxing after a day outdoors.
WHERE: 150 miles/241 km east of Geneva. HOTEL MONTE ROSA: Tel 41/27-966-0333; www.monterosazermatt.ch. Cost: from $360 (off-peak), from $515 (peak). When: closed mid-Sep–mid-Dec and mid-Apr–mid-Jul. HOTEL ADMIRAL: Tel 41/27-966-9000; www.hotel-admiral.ch. Cost: from $220. WALDHOTEL FLETSCHHORN: Tel 41/27-957-2131; www.fletschhorn.ch. Cost: from $355; dinner $135. When: closed May, Nov. HOTEL EUROPA: Tel 41/27-958-9600; www.europa-saasfee.ch. Cost: from $155. BEST TIMES: Jan–Apr for best ski conditions; late Feb–Mar for shorter lift lines; Jul–Sep for glacier skiing.
Music Takes Center Stage
MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL
Vaud, Switzerland
Europe’s leading jazz event since 1967, the Montreux Jazz Festival has blossomed into an international celebration of music that showcases blues, reggae, soul, rap, rock, and pop as well as its namesake style.
Always ahead of the curve, it features the finest sound stages, with big-time acts dominating the two main halls, while lesser-knowns perform more intimate sets at the Montreux Jazz Café and small open-air venues. A strong musical tradition only heightens the allure of this ever-popular town that hugs the banks of lovely Lake Geneva.
Since the 19th century, artists, writers, and musicians have been attracted to the city’s French ways and worldly atmosphere, which are sometimes compared to those of Cannes (see p. 127). Idle at any of the waterside cafés amid the palms, cypresses, and magnolias that flourish here (thanks to mountains that protect the city from harsh winter winds) and you’ll understand why Lake Geneva is called the Swiss Riviera. What Cannes lacks is the Château de Chillon, Switzerland’s most important and most photographed castle, parts of which date back 1,000 years. From Montreux, a postcard-worthy 2.5-mile walk along the shore to Chillon wows with a kaleidoscope of flowers and Alpine views.
You’ll feel like an honored guest at the Hôtel Masson, built in 1829 as a winemaker’s mansion overlooking the lake and now offering 35 high-ceilinged guest rooms with balconies. Popular with Jazz Festival–goers and performers is the opulent Le Montreux Palace, a jewel of Belle Époque architecture that features 236 elegant and spacious guest rooms, a top-flight spa, and impeccable service.
Of the plethora of lakeside eateries, La Rouvenaz’s heartwarming Italian fare and casual ambience make it a perennial favorite. But serious gastronomes flock to the village of Crissier (18 miles northwest of town) for the magic performed at Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville, where patrons book at least two months in advance. Culinary maestro Philippe Rochat comfortably balances the German and the French, combining the simple and the sublime.
Château de Chillon, which seems to rise out of Lake Léman, claims to be Switzerland’s most-visited historic monument.
WHERE: 62 miles/100 km east of Geneva. MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL: Tel 41/21-9638282; www.montreuxjazz.com. When: 16 days that include the first 3 full weekends of Jul. HOW: U.S.-based Ciao! Travel offers a 6-night package with tickets to 5 concerts. Tel 800942-2426 or 619-297-8112; www.ciaotravel.com. Cost: from $3,950, includes air from New York, hotel, tickets. HÔTEL MASSON: Tel 41/21-966-0044; www.hotelmasson.ch. Cost: from $210. When: closed Nov–mid-Apr. FAIRMONT LE MONTREUX PALACE: Tel 41/21962-1200; www.fairmont.com. Cost: from $450. LA ROUVENAZ: Tel 41/21-963-2736; www.rouvenaz.ch. Cost: dinner $60. RESTAURANT DE L’HÔTEL DE VILLE: Tel 41/21-63
4-05-05; www.philippe-rochat.ch. Cost: 10-course tasting dinner $360. BEST TIMES: May–Sep for nicest weather; Jul for Jazz Festival; Dec for Christmas market.
A Wealth of Culture
ZÜRICH’S ARTBEAT
Switzerland
Straddling the Limmat River and graced with a mountainous backdrop, Switzerland’s most financially powerful city capitalizes on natural beauty and cultural riches. Coupled with Basel (see p. 273), Zürich pumps the country’s artistic heart. The birthplace of the Dada movement (1916) has long nurtured creativity and today boasts not only a top-ranked orchestra and superb theater company but a 19th-century opera house acclaimed for its lavish 1,100-seat intimacy and stellar acoustics. Even the delicate-spired Fraumünster and twin-towered Grossmünster churches are testaments to Zürich’s creative leanings, with stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall and Augusto Giacometti. The largest collection of works by Alberto Giacometti (Augusto’s cousin) are displayed along other 19th- and early-20th-century art at the revered Kunsthaus. Recent years have seen the Zürich West neighborhood reinvented, with former factories and an old train viaduct now home to the Kunsthalle contemporary art museum, edgy art galleries, and a bustling nightlife. Popular with the stylish art crowd is the cozy Hotel Helvetia, with a lobby and lively restaurant that showcase contemporary Swiss artists.
Looking down on it all from an extravagant 125-acre park high above town is the castlelike Dolder Grand Hotel, reached by funicular. The Norman Foster–led renovation completed in 2008 refurbished the original 1899 main building of understatedly elegant guest rooms and added two new wings. From the hotel’s acclaimed Mediterranean restaurant to the gorgeous nine-hole golf course and pool with a wave-making machine, everything at the Dolder shares remarkable city views.
1,000 Places to See Before You Die Page 46
